home All hormones Heating expansion tank attachment. What and how to fill the heating system in a private house: the choice of coolant, solutions for open and closed systems. Among the advantages are

Heating expansion tank attachment. What and how to fill the heating system in a private house: the choice of coolant, solutions for open and closed systems. Among the advantages are

The use of an expansion tank is necessary in every closed heating system, and even in some systems connected to central heating. The process of installing an expansion tank is quite complicated, but if you carefully study the instructions to do it yourself, without the involvement of specialists, it is quite possible.

The principle of operation of the expansion tank

The expansion tank is a metal tank that is connected to the heating system. The main function of this device is to eliminate the increase in pressure in the pipeline, as a result of the expansion of the coolant.

Expansion tanks are of two types: open and closed. The principle of operation of each of these tanks is different from each other.

The open expansion tank has a metal cover that opens to add coolant to the system.

The closed expansion tank consists of a metal container that has no openings other than to connect to the system. The container is separated by an internal membrane made of rubber. When the pressure rises, the rubber bends and the coolant enters the tank, when the pressure decreases or the coolant leaks, the rubber presses on half of the tank in which the gas is placed and the coolant enters the system. Thus, the expansion tank is a pressure regulator that prevents high voltage surges from occurring in the system. If you do not use an expansion tank, the heating system will not function normally, and the taps, pipes and boiler will quickly fail.

Expansion tanks are used in a private heating system, and in some cases in a system connected to a central heating system.

Varieties of expansion tanks for heating

Expansion tanks are divided into:

open,
closed.

An open expansion tank has a number of disadvantages, therefore it is rarely used, mainly in cases where the system is not connected to a pump and water circulates freely.

Disadvantages of an open expansion tank:

due to the frequent opening of the lid, the components of the heating system come into contact with oxygen, which causes rust to form on the walls of pipes and radiators;
when the water temperature rises, the liquid evaporates, so the coolant should be added to the system periodically;
an open expansion tank is installed at the highest point compared to the heating system, so the installation of such a device takes a lot of time.

The only advantage of an open expansion tank is its low cost compared to a closed one.

A closed expansion tank is called a membrane tank, depending on the type of membrane, there are:

expansion tanks of replaceable type,
expansion tanks of non-replaceable type.

Replaceable expansion tanks involve the replacement of the membrane, if damaged. To replace the membrane, it is enough to unscrew the flange.

Non-replaceable expansion tanks imply the replacement of the entire tank if the membrane is damaged. Such tanks are more resistant to pressure drops, and the membrane fits perfectly and hermetically to the outer wall of the tank.

Expansion tanks come in two forms:

balloon,
flat.

The balloon shape resembles a large container in which a membrane or a lid is located, depending on the type of tank.

Flat expansion tanks have a flattened shape and a membrane in the form of a diaphragm. The advantage of flat expansion tanks is that they take up little space and are easy to install.

Calculation of an expansion tank for heating

The size and volume of the expansion tank is affected by:

system type;
capacity of the system;
maximum allowable pressure;
location of the expansion tank.

The easiest way to determine the volume of an expansion tank is to find out the capacity of the heating system and divide this amount by 10%. For example, if the heating system contains 400 liters of coolant, then the volume of the expansion tank will be 40 liters, if the coolant is water. If glycol liquid is used as a heat carrier, then another 50% must be added to this amount.

Please note that 3% of the coolant in the closed expansion tank comes to compensate for possible leaks. In any case, the tank volume obtained as a result of the calculation should be slightly increased.

To get an accurate calculation in large or complex heating systems, it is better to trust the experts or use an online calculator.

The correct calculation of the expansion tank is indicated by the failure of the safety valve.

Installation of an expansion tank for open heating

An open expansion tank is a place for water to come into contact with oxygen. An open container is used when water is free, without using a pump, moves through the system or when the system is connected to central heating.

Since air is in contact with water, the entire heating system is designed with a slope so that excess oxygen is forced out of the radiators.

Expansion tank installation location: the highest point, in relation to the heating system. The installation height of the expansion tank must exceed the installation height of the heating system.

Expansion tank installation diagram:

Installation of an additional expansion tank is carried out if it is impossible to mount the heating system at an angle. The installation level of the main and additional expansion tank must be the same.

The open expansion vessel includes branch pipes:

expansion,
signal,
circulation,
overflow.

Using an expansion pipe, the tank is connected to the heating system.

In most cases, an open expansion tank is mounted near the boiler and connected to the water supply system using a signal pipe that controls the level of the coolant.

An overflow pipe connects the tank to the sewer; when the tank overflows, the liquid is automatically drained into the sewer.

The circulation pipe provides the supply of coolant, in the event that the expansion tank is located in an unheated room.

Installation of a closed expansion tank

Before studying the rules for installing a closed-type expansion tank, consider the advantages of this device over an open expansion tank:

minimal heat loss;
do not need isolation;
work at high pressure surges;
installation anywhere, without reference to the highest point;
closed-type devices are more compact and easier to install;
no rust formation on the inner walls of the heating system;
ease of maintenance.

Tools for work:

wrench;
key for installing plastic pipes;
step key.

The preparatory stage includes:

disconnecting the boiler from electricity, gas supply or water supply;
shutting off the valve responsible for the circulation of the coolant;
draining the coolant from the heating section on which the expansion tank is installed.

Expansion tank installation instructions:

1. Install a shut-off and drain valve on the supply pipe to shut off and drain water.

2. Use screws or flanges to connect the expansion vessel to the system. If the pipes of the heating system are polypropylene, you need to use a soldering machine, couplings, corners and fittings.

3. A fitting called "American" will help in the future to easily remove the tank for replacement or repair. Before installing the fitting on the expansion tank, wrap linen tape around the threads and apply sealing paste.

4. When the water is drained from the system, cut the pipe with special scissors and install a tee.

5. Install relief valve and pressure gauge.

6. Before starting the system, clean the coarse filter.

7. Before connecting the expansion tank to the system, you need to create a working pressure. To do this, use a pump.

8. When the expansion tank is connected to the network - start all the coolant supply valves and turn on the boiler.

1. Install the expansion tank in such a way that the coolant enters from above.

2. In the absence of data on the exact volume of the heating system, the capacity of the expansion tank is calculated based on the boiler power: 15 liters of liquid are calculated for 1 kW of power.

3. Before buying and installing an expansion tank, inspect the heating boiler. Many modern boilers have a hidden expansion tank located in the middle of the boiler.

4. Do not mount a closed type expansion vessel near the circulation pump, due to the occurrence of large pressure drops.

5. Installation of a vacuum expansion tank is carried out only at a positive temperature.

6. Installation of a closed-type membrane expansion tank is carried out from the side of the cold water supply to the boiler.

7. As a sealant, use only those sealants that are resistant to high temperatures, otherwise leakage is inevitable.

8. When determining the location and installation of the expansion tank, you should think about the further approach or maintenance of the device. Do not install the expansion tank in hard-to-reach places.

9. When installing the expansion tank, follow the safety rules and generally accepted instructions.

10. Be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions for installing the expansion tank.

11. Be sure to install a safety valve, which sometimes comes with the tank, if there is no valve, buy it separately.

Maintenance of expansion tank for heating

1. Once every 6-7 months, the expansion tank should be inspected for mechanical damage or rust. If they are, you need to fix the problem.

2. Expansion vessels of closed type should be checked for pressure once every six months.

3. In devices with a replaceable diaphragm, periodically check the diaphragm for integrity or damage.

4. If the expansion tank is not used for a long time, store the tank in a dry place, be sure to drain all the water and dry the appliance.

6. It is best to use an inert gas such as nitrogen to fill the air chamber.

7. Proper operation of the expansion tank depends on the pressure and temperature of the heating system.

8. With a sharp drop in pressure, there is a risk of damage to the membrane. To replace the membrane, you need to perform a number of actions:

disconnect the expansion tank from the system;
relieve the pressure in the tank using the valve, which is located at the top of the tank;
remove the flange located at the point where the tank is connected to the system;
remove the membrane and drain excess water;
insert the membrane and install the flange;
attach the tank, after setting the desired pressure.

Read in the article

What water is better to fill in the heating system

There are several types of water poured into the heating circuit:

Water supply. This also includes liquid taken from a well, well or nearby reservoir. The main advantage of this option is its cheapness. However, the quality of such a coolant is rather low: it acts quite aggressively on the inner walls of the circuit due to the salts and oxygen dissolved in it.

Boiled. Boiling allows you to remove from the water part of the oxygen and salts that precipitate. However, it is quite difficult to prepare water for a volumetric circuit in this way.

Cleaned with reagents. To neutralize harmful impurities, instead of boiling, it is convenient to use special chemicals - reagents. Water prepared in this way needs to be carefully filtered before being poured into the system.

Distilled. It is sold in plumbing stores in containers of various sizes. Rainwater also has similar properties, which some owners of private houses specially collect for subsequent use in heating networks.

Antifreeze. They are used instead of water in cases where the heating system is prone to freezing (the crystallization temperature of antifreeze is much lower than that of water). This method of filling the heating circuit is rarely used because of its high cost.

Antifreeze for heating

Conclusion

Filling the heating circuit with water is a rather complicated and time-consuming procedure, which is recommended to be performed by at least two people.

During its implementation, it is important not to rush, carefully following all the recommendations. The preparation of water for filling into the circuit deserves special attention: in cases where, for financial or other reasons, liquid from the water supply is used, it must at least be boiled

To remove sediment and rust particles gradually accumulating in the coolant, it is recommended to equip the system with special mud filters

The preparation of water for filling into the circuit deserves special attention: in cases where, for financial or other reasons, liquid from the water supply is used, it must at least be boiled. To remove sediment and rust particles gradually accumulating in the coolant, it is recommended to equip the system with special mud filters

How to fill water in heating: instructions for closed and open systems
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Filling a closed heating system with tap water

It is easy to fill the heating system with water - from make-up tap.

For convenience, there is a pressure gauge on a specialized make-up tap - to determine the pressure to which water must be added, and there is also a filter - so that particles of dirt do not penetrate into the heating system.

First you need to open this tap and pump water into the system up to 1.5 bar. After that, you need to go to all the batteries and bleed the air from Mayevsky's taps. After bleeding the batteries, the pressure in the system will drop. After the air was bled from the last radiator, we again pressurize the water supply to 1.5 atmospheres. After that, we bleed all the air again. If from Mayevsky's crane water poured on the radiator - it means it is completely filled and you don’t need to open it anymore.

After the first floor, air is bled from the radiators on the second and subsequent floors (if any).

But even after the release of air from the topmost radiator, that's not all. In the system, there are still air bubbles somewhere, various foam, etc. Over time, this air again accumulates in the radiators. So after a day of operation of the heating system, it is necessary to again bleed all the air from the heating system through Mayevsky's taps. In order not to form foam from antifreeze, you need to choose the right circulation pump and set the desired speed on it! The circulation pump must not be overpowered to avoid cavitation and foaming.

After the last bleeding of air from all batteries, it is necessary to make the optimum pressure in the system

IMPORTANT - do not pump air into the expansion tank with a car pump. Initially, the tank contains dry nitrogen

Nitrogen is essentially an inert gas and does not interact with anything. Therefore, the interior is protected from corrosion. And if you pump air into the system, this will cause the formation of condensate inside and gradual corrosion.

HOW CORRECTLY TO CREATE THE NECESSARY PRESSURE. To do this, after all the air has been removed from the system, open the make-up valve and start water into the system. When the pressure reaches 1.5 bar (or more, depending on the number of storeys of the entire system), then turn it off. At this time, the water will compress the nitrogen in the expansion tank and it will work properly.

How to pour water from below

Let's turn to the lowest point of our heating system. At this point there should be a tap to drain the water from the system. If this tap is not at the lowest point, we will not be able to drain the water completely and something will definitely remain. So most likely this point will be even lower than the boiler. That's about the same place, next to, in the immediate vicinity of this tap, there should be a pipe for pouring heating. At the end of this pipe is a check valve. It lets water into the system, but does not let it out. It remains for us to connect the outlet of the water supply with a tap to this valve. Opening the tap, water from the water supply rushes into the system. The pressure developed by the water supply must be greater than or equal to the maximum allowable pressure in our heating system. For a two-story house with a boiler in the basement, one - one and a half atmospheres is enough.

Heating inlet assembly (ver.1)
This is the first version of node. Lots of temporary details. A flexible garden hose is used to connect to the water supply. There came a time when I thought that this knot could be causing a lot of flooding.

intake valve assembly
This is the latest version of Node. Here everything is done solidly and intelligently. There are no steel parts at all, the flexible eyeliner has been replaced with a stationary one.

The principle of pouring heating from below is that we do not form an air cushion under a layer of water. We have all the air accumulated at the highest point of the system, and we support it with water. Well, in radiators, of course, because, as I said, each radiator is an air trap.

Strategy #1 (quick)

We can immediately open the Mayevsky crane at the highest point. We can unscrew (open) all the valves! Only under each unscrewed valve you need to put a wide trough into which water will drain when the system is full. The hole in the valve is very small. A millimeter of everything, so a lot of water will not leak. Especially if you quickly run around the house with a screwdriver.

In short, the valves were unscrewed, the water tap was quietly (but not too quietly) opened, and the system began to fill. Then we have a range of options. We can open the water slightly, go to the radiator that should be filled first, and wait for it until water flows from the valve. Flowed? We twist and run to the next valve. So gradually run around all the valves and twist them. After that, the system is considered flooded and can be turned on. If the house is not too big, then you can fill the entire system in half an hour. Long live modern heating systems! But it is better to execute this strategy, nevertheless, with an assistant who understands the issue and will not spoil anything (the wife will not work). The fact is that it may well turn out that water enters the system too quickly and you either do not have time to tighten all the valves, or the pressure will rise too much. Then you will want to shut off the water supply. For this, there must be someone who will quickly and without additional questions do it and save the whole event.

Strategy #2 (long)

We do not have enough wide containers to put them under each valve. Then we do not unscrew the valves. We fill in water until the pressure on our pressure gauge rises to a maximum (usually 1.5 atmospheres). After that, we go to the first valve with a mug and a screwdriver and bleed all the air. The pressure will drop. We go down and again give pressure to the maximum. And so we repeat until water flows out of our valve. After that, we go to the next valve and repeat everything. With this strategy, you can fill the water in 2 hours. But don't spill a drop! And work, by the way, alone.

It's a good idea to put your wife at the tap and tell her to maintain pressure. That is, for the arrow to be "right here." My wife is very good at this. She even seems to like it.

Strategy #3 (intermediate)

Personally, in my heating system there is a storage boiler. It has quite a lot of water in it. Liters 60. And panel radiators. They hold very little water. And my tubes are thin. That is, the main water in my boiler. At the outlet of the boiler I have a circulation pump. The pump has an air release valve. I unscrew this valve and fill the entire boiler. As soon as water has flowed from the motor (from its valve), I begin to act on strategy number 2. And I fill my system somewhere in an hour and a half.

The choice of coolant what to fill in the home system

Before pouring new fluid into a closed-type heating system, it is imperative to select a coolant. Only 3 options:

Water.

Distilled water.

Synthetic carrier.

Antifreeze for home systems

Important! Water can be used in any home heating system, as long as part of the circuit does not come into contact with cold outside air. If the boiler room is outside the house, the pipes are laid in the ground without thermal insulation, it is necessary to use non-freezing liquids - when the boiler is turned off, frozen water will lead to cracking of the pipes

Can the system be filled with tap water

Do not try to save money by pouring tap water into the new system. Tap water is “enriched” not only with chlorine, which, when heated, adversely affects the surfaces it comes into contact with. Under the influence of temperature, which can reach 60 - 80 °, plaque begins to form on the inner walls of pipes, connectors, radiators. The deposits resemble scale inside an electric kettle with the same consequences: hard deposits eventually block the internal gaps. As a result, some of the radiators can remain cold even at high media temperatures.

Deposits in the pipe when using tap water

In addition to troubles with water stone, which forms a layer of plaque on the walls of pipes, the use of ordinary tap water can cause problems due to chemical reactions that occur in the media when heated. Aggressive impurities do not have the best effect on the state of the coating inside the radiators, corrode seals, and accelerate corrosion processes.

Conclusion - with a small amount of liquid, it makes no sense to save. It is better to pour distilled water into a closed-type heating system.

Distilled water with surfactants and additives for heating

Advantages:

Low cost.

Reduced viscosity, good fluidity.

No impurities.

No chlorine.

Increased boiling point.

Distillate as a coolant has a beneficial effect on the operation of the entire system: purified water warms up faster, the load on pumping equipment is reduced, there is no risk of clogging inside pipes, deposits on the inner walls.

Synthetic coolants: application features

On sale there are ready-made solutions and concentrates based on:

propylene glycol.

Ethylene glycol.

Glycerin.

Concentrate for home use

Despite the imperfect performance of ethylene glycol, it is better not to pour solutions based on it into the home heating network - the substance is dangerous to health.

When buying, you should focus not on the price, but on the degree of concentration of the active substance. Different brands of coolant are diluted in a certain proportion. Before preparing the solution, be sure to read the instructions for diluting the composition.

Synthetic carriers degrade over time, so before throwing away the canister from the concentrate, find information on the expiration date and mark with a marker near the boiler or inlet pipe so that you do not forget to replace the coolant in time.

Selection of pressure values in the system and expansion tank

The higher the operating pressure of the coolant, the less likely it is that air will enter the system. It is necessary to remember about limiting the operating pressure to the maximum permissible value for the heating boiler. If, when filling the system, a static pressure of 1.5 atm (15 m of water column) was reached, then the circulation pump with a head of 6 m of water. Art. will create a pressure of 15 + 6 = 21 m of water column at the entrance to the boiler.

Some types of boilers have an operating pressure of about 2 atm = 20 m of water column. Be careful not to overload the boiler heat exchanger with unacceptably high coolant pressure!

The diaphragm expansion vessel is supplied with a factory set pressure of inert gas (nitrogen) in the gas cavity. Its common value is 1.5 atm (or bar, which is almost the same). This level can be raised by pumping air into the gas cavity with a hand pump.

Initially, the internal volume of the tank is completely occupied by nitrogen, the membrane is pressed by gas to the body. That is why it is customary to fill closed systems to a pressure level not higher than 1.5 atm (maximum 1.6 atm). Then, by installing the expansion tank on the "return" in front of the circulation pump, we will not get a change in its internal volume - the membrane will remain motionless. Heating the coolant will lead to an increase in its pressure, the membrane will move away from the tank body and compress the nitrogen. The gas pressure will increase, balancing the coolant pressure at a new static level.

Expansion tank pressure levels.

Filling the system to a pressure of 2 atm will allow the cold coolant to immediately compress the membrane, which will also compress nitrogen to a pressure of 2 atm. Heating water from 0 °C to 100 °C increases its volume by 4.33%. The additional volume of liquid must flow into the expansion tank. A large volume of coolant in the system gives a large increment during heating. Too much initial pressure of the cold coolant will immediately use up the capacity of the expansion tank, it will not be enough to receive excess heated water (antifreeze)

Therefore, it is important to fill the system to a correctly defined coolant pressure level. When filling the system with antifreeze, you need to remember about its higher coefficient of thermal expansion than that of water, which requires the installation of an expansion tank with a larger capacity

Conclusion

Filling closed heating systems is not just a standard final operation before commissioning. Performing this step correctly or incorrectly can seriously affect the performance of the system, in the worst case, even disable it. Compliance with filling technology is the key to obtaining stable heating.

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One-pipe and two-pipe heating distribution in a private house

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open system

Autonomous heating can work according to two fundamentally different schemes:

Image	Description
	open system: operates with a pressure equal to the height of the water column between the lower and upper points of the circuit. It communicates with the atmosphere through an open expansion tank.
	closed system: works with excess pressure of 1.5-2.5 atmospheres. It is completed with a membrane expansion tank that compensates for the increase in the volume of the coolant when it is heated.

A feature of the installation of an open heating system is that its fillings (supply and return) are laid with a constant slope from the open expansion tank at the top of the circuit.

This pipe layout has two practical consequences:

Pour water into the system can be directly through the expansion tank(buckets or through a water supply tap brought to the attic);

The device of an open tank allows you to fill the heating circuit with buckets or any other container.

All the air will be expelled there., remaining in the contour at the time of its filling.

How to run such a system with your own hands? Easier than simple: fill the circuit and melt the cauldron. If the circuit is designed to work with natural circulation, the circulation will start immediately after the boiler heat exchanger has warmed up. In a system with a pump, you must additionally turn on its power.

Starting an open heating system

Filling an open heating system is easier. No special tools needed. It is enough to determine the upper point of finding water in the expansion tank. You will need an assistant who will monitor the air taps.

Feeding an open system

Work rules

The liquid is drained through the drain pipe located at the lowest point. If necessary, the circuit is flushed. Filling the system is performed in the following sequence:

Shut off the drain valve.

Open the air bleed valves.

Distillate is slowly poured into the expansion tank.

Tank for open type heating

Continue to fill the system with short breaks so that the air rises evenly to the surface. Filling is carried out until the moment when liquid begins to flow from the air taps. The valves are closed.

Add water to the expansion tank up to the mark. You can not fill the expander completely. When heated, the volume of liquid increases, and water over the edges of the tank will begin to pour out. The maximum coolant level is 2/3 of the internal volume of the tank.

System check and maintenance

After completion of work, air is bled from the radiators. Check each valve one by one. Add the required amount of water to the tank.

Air bleeding

When operating an open system, it must be remembered that the warm carrier is constantly in contact with air, and, accordingly, evaporates. Therefore, periodically it is worth looking into the expansion tank. When the level drops, simply top up with enough water.

Before checking, be sure to turn off the boiler and wait until the water has cooled to room temperature. Do not add media to hot water. Use liquid with temperature up to 40o.

Filling the heating system with antifreeze

Before pouring antifreeze into the heating system with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate how much liquid you will need, how much to buy. To carry out calculations, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the entire heating system.

There are special tables that allow you to accurately calculate how much you need to fill in "anti-freeze" before initial operation or replace one anti-freeze liquid with another, from calculations made per linear meter of pipe. Using such calculations and knowing the diameter of the pipes, it is possible to calculate how much coolant is required per 10 m of the system. It remains to be clarified how much "anti-freeze" must be filled in to fill the battery section. Adding all the data, you can get the total amount of antifreeze needed to fill the system. There is no single formula - the filling depends on the diameter of the pipes and the volume of the radiators.

On the container in which the coolant is sold, in most cases, there are data on the antifreeze sold and its density. Such data make it possible to calculate how much water should be added to the liquid, which will serve as a heat carrier.

To fill the anti-freeze with your own hands, you need to have a pump or special equipment that allows you to carry out the procedures for purging and washing from used residues. For pouring work you will need: a screwdriver, pliers, an adjustable wrench, hoses for pumping coolant, fixing clamps and sealing tape.

The download of a closed or open type system consists of the following steps:

Before pumping in a new non-freezing liquid intended for replacement, it is necessary to drain the entire amount of used liquid or water through a special pipe by opening the drain valve. In the event that the liquid does not drain on its own, it is removed using a circulation pump;
If the coolant is replaced with another one (with the exception of glycerin liquids), a preliminary flushing of the system is necessary;
Next, using a hose and a circulation pump, new antifreeze is poured. Two hoses are used for the pumping procedure. The first hose is fixed on the drain pipe and the pump outlet with clamps fixing the ends. The second hose is used to supply antifreeze from the container to the pump;
After the hoses are installed, the pump turns on, which, taking the coolant from the tank, fills the heating system with it. During work on pouring antifreeze into the system, it is necessary to ensure that the end of the hose lowered into the canister is below the liquid level, this is necessary to prevent air from entering the system along with the liquid during antifreeze intake. The air that has entered along with the liquid forms plugs that will prevent the heating from working;
For unhindered injection of the heat carrier, the “Maevsky tap” or a special plug is opened, which will allow air to freely exit when the cavities are filled with liquid. After the filled antifreeze begins to flow from the plug in a thin stream, filling stops and the plug is closed.

Filling with antifreeze with your own hands is not a difficult task. When starting work on pumping coolant, it is necessary to decide on the choice of coolant, how much it is needed, to have the equipment necessary for the work - a pump and tools.

Filling the heating system with antifreeze video

Perhaps not everyone knows that antifreeze is used quite successfully as a coolant in heating systems. There are several types of antifreeze coolant. And they differ in their composition. If you do not go into details, but briefly describe them, we can say that the basis of any antifreeze is a saline / alcohol solution, as well as propylene glycol / ethylene glycol. Corrective components are special additives. Antifreezes containing glycerin are popular. Antifreeze liquids, due to their content, each have their own specifics, so before deciding what to choose, you should more or less carefully study the topic, which will be helped by our video materials offered to readers below.

Choosing a coolant

Independent installation of a radiator heating system

When does it make sense to use antifreeze fluids for the coolant in the heating system?

Precaution and safety

Don't Forget the Nuances

Glycerin-based antifreeze is considered an environmentally friendly product. It contains special additives that give it anti-corrosion and anti-foam properties.

We should not forget about the nuances, especially regarding security issues. I suggest watching a short, but rather instructive video on this topic.

teplolivam.ru

Types of heating systems in private houses

Residents of apartment buildings do not have to start the heating system on their own. Before starting repairs, specialists will warn all neighbors about the work and drain the liquid from the whole riser. The filling will also be handled by services that serve communications.

Heating system diagram

In a private house, heating can be installed in accordance with one of 2 standard schemes:

open.

closed.

Open loop with tank

An open network, which is also called a gravity network, is built without the installation of circulation pumps that distill the coolant inside the network. The circulation of the liquid is carried out due to natural processes: hot water rises, where in the expansion tank installed at the top point, the carrier comes into contact with air. The cooled water descends to the lower part of the circuit, to the boiler, and is supplied for heating.

Closed heating circuit

Open systems are rarely mounted. You can meet the "classics" only in houses where old boilers, metal pipes and cast-iron radiators are used for heating. The volume of coolant in these types of heating networks is large, respectively, the energy consumption is not economical.

Combined scheme

Closed circuits are heating with the connection of pumping equipment, which ensures constant circulation of hot water inside the system. Energy consumption (gas or electricity) is minimal, because the volume of liquid is only a few tens of liters. Due to the constant movement of water, the boiler is turned on only to heat the coolant to a predetermined temperature.

How to fill the system not with water, but with another substance

The desire to fill in antifreeze immediately gives rise to many problems. We can't pour from the plumbing, and pouring from above is terribly boring. In addition, we will definitely spill quite a lot of valuable and expensive antifreeze. And in a closed system, you can’t pour anything from above at all. One way or another, you will have to succumb to fluids at the very end to create excess pressure.

I can offer only two options. Pour from the bottom either with a hand pump or from a bucket with some kind of electric one. But not every electric can work with liquids other than water. This issue needs to be specially studied. Hand pumps are available. They are called pressurized. They cost more than 8 thousand rubles and are clearly professional tools. Honestly, I'm even afraid to imagine that someday I will need to fill the system with antifreeze

I can only tentatively theorize on this subject.

Well, first of all, I would think about antifreeze at the system design stage.

I would focus on the capacity of the system. I would use thin pipes, panel radiators and some flow-through, non-storage boilers, if any

For filling, I would buy a pump. Absolutely there are pumps for pumping technical liquids. They are much more expensive than usual and are usually made of stainless steel. The pump must be designed for a suitable pressure (from 2-3 atmospheres) and have, if possible, not too significant performance. Well, 10-15 liters per minute. I would pour from a large bucket. That is, the pump must be small. There are no small professional pumps! Non-professionals are “sharpened” only for water.

I have thoughts about hand pumps. I will write, but not within the framework of this article. The hand pump remains relevant, because in the process of life, we have to pump fluid into the system.

You can attach a long hose to the non-return valve, then take the end of this hose and go with it to your own attic. There, insert a watering can into the end of the hose and fill the system from there. It turns out, as it were, from above (from the attic), but at the same time, from below. The question is how much antifreeze will remain in the hose and how to pour it out so as not to spill it? The idea seems theoretically working, but I foresee many problems from a practical point of view.

Preparatory stage

Once the installation of the heating system is completed, it must be flushed before filling with liquid. In another way it is called pressing. If such work is not done, then debris can damage the components of the heating boiler.

For this purpose, a hand pump is used, with which air or water is pumped. In the first case, the air mixture is injected up to 2 atm. When pumping water, a pressure of 1.5–1.8 atm is maintained, then the liquid is kept in the system for a day. During this time, possible leaks are detected. If all joints have good tightness, then the water is drained along with the debris, and antifreeze fills its place.

Replacing the coolant causes and frequency

Replacing water in a closed and open heating circuit is carried out:

During the first start of heating.

After installation, the filling and start-up of the system is carried out

After seasonal drying.

When starting after repair work.

Regular topping up of liquid is required during operation, if there was no drain after the heating season.

Why drain water from a home system

The question to which there is no definite answer is whether it is necessary to drain the circuit annually after the end of the heating season? The decision depends on the type, age and material of manufacture of the main elements - pipes and radiators, as well as on the total volume of liquid.

Each type has its own media replacement frequency

Most often, systems with old cast-iron radiators are drained for the summer. The reason is the appearance of a leak after turning off the boilers. Old cast iron fins are screwed together with old gaskets. When there is hot water inside the batteries, the seals expand to provide a stable seal at the seams.

Repair of cast iron radiators

After the water cools, the material from which the gaskets are made naturally shrinks, and at the junction of the ribs, a leak begins. But a long downtime of old radiators without water is fraught with accelerated corrosion, rust inside the radiator and old pipes crumbles in a dry environment, and can disable the entire riser.

In closed new circuits, filling the heating system is not a costly process. But it is not recommended to completely drain the liquid every year - this is not necessary.

The frequency of replacing and topping up fluid in the heating system

How often do you need to change the fluid in the heating system? A few general rules:

In open-type circuits of private houses, it is enough to simply add water if the system is tight, without exposing old communications to stress checks in the form of long dry downtime. Replacement is necessary only in case of emergency repair or preventive sealing, after flushing.

Leaks - drain and repair

Closed heating systems need preventive flushing and change of coolant after a few years.

The frequency of filling with new fluid depends on the characteristics of the water, the life of the synthetic coolant, and the general condition of the system. With strong airing of the extreme points, it is recommended to identify the cause - find the place of the leak and check the tightness of the heating network. Typically, water changes are carried out every few seasons.

Flushing the system before starting

Scheme of water heating.

If there is water in the heating system, it must be drained. Next, you should dismantle the heating radiators. Then connect the pipes for supplying water from the water supply system to the outlet of the system, and the drain pipe to the inlet to the system. All formed connections must be well secured with pre-prepared clamps. It should be remembered that the higher the water pressure, the better the cleaning will be (but not more than two atmospheres). A pump is usually used to create pressure. You can sprinkle bleach on the water to have a disinfectant effect. On average, this procedure can take about two hours. At the end, clean water without additional impurities will come out of the drain.

Cleaning of the heating system can be carried out using special chemicals: additives or anti-corrosion liquids

They should be treated with caution, as they are not suitable for all materials and may damage some elements of the system.

After cleaning, the radiators are mounted in the opposite direction of their dismantling. You should additionally check the tightness of the system by visual inspection and detection of leaks.

Closed type heating circuit

Now about the heating itself. If the house has a centralized water supply network, then there will be no problems with filling. In the water supply system, water is always under pressure of 3-4 atm., And this is enough to fill the heating network. To do this, the boiler is connected to the water supply, and a shut-off valve is installed between them. When it is opened, filling occurs, and the air inside the system is bled through the Mayevsky taps installed on the radiators.

To drain the coolant at the lowest point, a drain pipe with a valve is mounted. This is an important element of the heating circuit when it comes to pouring water into it in the absence of a water pipe in a suburban village.

Heating system diagram

The filling options for closed-type heating are as follows:

You will need a pump with which you can take water from a well, well or any open body of water. The pump discharge hose is connected to the drain pipe, on which the valve opens. It turns out direct access to heating. It is in this way that closed-type heating can be filled. In this case, all available taps open completely. This is especially true for Mayevsky taps, through which the air from the inside is etched out.
Please note that the supply pump may have a higher pressure than is necessary for heating. Therefore, be sure to follow this indicator on the pressure gauge installed in the pipeline or in the boiler
What is 1.5 atm.? This is a water pressure equal to 15 meters of water column. That is, by raising the water tank to a height of 15 m, it is possible to achieve the required pressure inside the system. If you don’t have a pump at hand, and you use water from a well, then you can fill the heating circuit by raising the hose to a height of 15 m, and then pour water into it with buckets. The hose, as in the case of the pump, is connected to the drain pipe. Let's face it - the option is not the best, but it can be used as an alternative.
And now, as for the expansion tank. Usually it is attached to the pipeline with a threaded connection. It will be very easy to take it off. An open pipeline is a great place to pour water into. To do this, it is necessary to prepare a funnel so that it is easier to carry out the filling process. As soon as water appears in the pipe, we can assume that the system is completely filled. After all, the installation site of the tank is the highest point in heating. Although in closed systems this is not always the case. After that, you can install the tank in place.

tank device

When using the last filling option, the question arises, how will the necessary pressure be created? Everything is simple here. A nipple is located at the top of the expansion tank, with which air is bled if an overpressure situation occurs inside the tank. So the nipple can be easily removed. A hose from a conventional bicycle pump is applied to the hole from the nipple, and the last one is pumped. Pay attention to the pressure gauge - as soon as the indicator reaches the level of 1.5 atm, stop pumping.

Here's how to fill out. Of course, the best option is to use a pump to pump water. By the way, you can take a low-power unit. To do this, install a metal barrel or other tank near the house, fill it with buckets of water from an open reservoir (you can use the collected rainwater), connect the pump to the heating, and lower the other hose (suction) into the barrel. If the volume of the tank is less than the required volume of the coolant, when the pumping device is operating, carry water in buckets and pour it into a barrel.

And the last thing about air bleeding. This is a serious and difficult matter. You will have to bleed it from each heater. This will take some time, but this procedure cannot be neglected. There should not be a single bubble left inside the system, as this affects the efficiency of work.

Closed heating system. How to properly fill with water

Now a lot of owners of apartments and private houses choose closed heating systems. A closed system is a scheme within which the movement of the coolant is carried out with the help of the movement of the coolant - the pump, that is, forcibly. Feature - expansion tank of membrane type. Essential elements. boiler, tank - membrane, radiators, pump, pipes, also fittings, fasteners and filtering equipment. But very often, buyers of such a “closed heating system” soon ask themselves how to fill it and how to close the heating pipes. Below we will tell you how to properly fill a closed heating system with water.

The filling of the heating system takes place through the supply of the boiler. This is carried out using an electric pump, as well as a manual crimping machine. The system is filled with prepared network water or antifreeze made according to a special technique - it is a non-freezing coolant. At this time, air is released in the entire internal part of the system (faucets, radiators, air vents, and so on). When the desired pressure is reached, you can already start the system in working condition. Sometimes there are difficulties with creating the ideal pressure. Closing the heating pipes will largely depend on individual wishes, the design solution of the room and the location of the pipes themselves in the apartment, their number and size.

Difficulties often arise when filling with water. If the system is closed, then the expansion membrane tank (up to 6 bar pressure inside the tank), the safety valve up to 3 bar must also be closed. Special taps should also be installed to release air in places of accumulation, as well as a tap for feeding and filling pipes and heating equipment. The sequence of actions when filling a closed system is as follows:

Loosen the screw on the pump. Unscrew the shaft of the pumping system with a screwdriver. Tighten the screw tightly. Open the make-up screw. Fill the system until the pressure reaches approx. 0.5 bar. (you can start from 0.3 bar). Be sure to check if there are any leaks during this procedure! Raise the operating pressure in the system to 2 bar. Make sure that it doesn’t leak anywhere. Release the air in absolutely all internal places of the system. The next step is to make the pressure in the system about one and a half bar. This will be the most optimal pressure for a closed heating system. If the system will be cooling or heating, then the fluctuations should not be significant (from 0.1 bar to 0.5 bar). Watch out for the swing range! Sudden drops threaten to break all equipment, pipes and fittings!

There is no water level in such closed systems. The presence or absence of water is controlled by pressure. With its normal amount, it should be from one to two bar.

The closed heating system is easy to operate, less prone to corrosion and damage, it is easy to replenish and, if necessary, lower it. If you have any questions, or find malfunctions in the operation of the heating system (freezing, leaking, etc.), then immediately contact the support service!

Heating boilers are one of the main types of heating equipment and are devices for heating the heat carriers entering the heating system to a certain temperature. The coolant passes through a vicious circle of the heating system.

Before you start looking for contractors to improve your own balcony, answer yourself one question: what do I want to get as a result of glazing? Perhaps you just want to use this room for drying.

Such cast-iron batteries, familiar to the majority of the population, installed many years ago, can no longer fully cope with the functions assigned to them for space heating and have a rather unattractive appearance.

Solid fuel heating boilers are devices that produce space heating thanks to solid fuels (for example, wood, coke, briquettes or coal). Typically, these boilers are universal, as they can work on any.

Filling the system with antifreeze

If various antifreezes are used as a coolant, then the situation is different. It is necessary to fill the system from various containers - buckets, canisters. Usually they take some kind of bucket, pour antifreeze from the canister into it, and then fill the system with a pump.

The filling of the coolant occurs through drain valve.

The heating system must be able to drain the coolant. For this, a drain valve is installed. But through this drain valve, you can not only drain the system, but also fill it!

Such a faucet can be installed on the supply or return pipeline, for this you need to make a tee. Or it can be even simpler - install it instead of a plug on some lower radiator.

To fill the system, it is necessary to lower the submersible pump into a bucket of antifreeze, put a hose on it and put the other end of the hose on the drain valve. Then open the valve and turn on the pump. The system is filled by analogy with a make-up tap from a water supply system - pressure is pumped up to 1.5 atm, then air is bled from the radiators. Again, pressure is pumped up to 1.5 atmospheres, and so on until all the air leaves the system.

Features of starting a closed heating system with distilled water

Filling a closed heating system with water has the following features:

for the circulation pump and the heating boiler to work properly, the pressure in the system must be somewhat excessive. Experts say that this parameter should be at least 1.5 kgf / cm²;
before starting the system, it is required to pressurize it with a pressure one and a half times higher than the norm. It is especially important to perform this procedure for rooms equipped with a floor heating system, since this heating element is located in a completely closed screed, so there will be no way to get to it later (read also: “Starting heating - we start the system according to the rules“).

It will be much easier to provide the heating circuit with the necessary pressure if the dwelling has access to the central water supply. In this situation, to pressure test the heating system, it is enough to fill it with water through a jumper that separates the water supply, while carefully monitoring the increase in pressure on the pressure gauge. After completing such an event, unnecessary water can be removed using any of the valves or through an air vent.

Many are wondering whether special water treatment for the heating system should be carried out or whether it can be limited to water from the nearest reservoir. At the same time, some argue that distilled water in the heating system will have a beneficial effect on the life of the equipment and will prevent it from failing ahead of time. But it is much more important to figure out how to prepare water for heating if a special non-freezing liquid like ethylene glycol is added to it and how to subsequently fill the heating circuit with such a coolant.

For these purposes, it is customary to use a special pump that serves to fill the system with water, and it can be controlled both automatically and manually. The connection of this pump is carried out using a valve, and after providing the necessary pressure, the valve is closed. There are situations when such equipment is not at hand. As an option, it is allowed to connect a standard garden hose to the discharge valve, the second end of which should be raised to a height of 15 meters and filled with water using a funnel. This method will be especially relevant if there are tall trees near the building to be equipped.

Another option for filling the heating system is to use an expansion tank, which performs the function of accommodating excess coolant caused by its expansion during the heating process.

Such a tank has the form of a reservoir, which is divided in half by a special elastic rubber membrane. One part of the container is for water, and the other for air. The design of any expansion tank also includes a nipple, with which it becomes possible to set the desired pressure inside the unit by removing excess air. If the pressure is insufficient, then this parameter can be compensated by pumping air into the system using a usually bicycle pump.

The whole process is not particularly difficult:

to begin with, air is eliminated from the expansion tank, for which you need to unscrew the nipple. Ready tanks go on sale with a slightly overpressure, which is equal to 1.5 atmospheres;
then the heating circuit is filled with water. In this case, the expansion tank must be mounted so that it is threaded upwards. It is important to remember that it is absolutely not worth filling the tank with water completely. It would be more correct if the total volume of air in this apparatus is approximately one tenth of the total volume of water, otherwise the tank will not cope with its main function and will not be able to accommodate excess heated coolant;
after that, air is pumped into the system through the nipple, which, as mentioned above, can be done using a conventional bicycle pump. The pressure must be controlled with a manometer.

All these actions will allow you to accurately fill the heating system with water and ensure stable and high-quality functioning of the entire circuit. If necessary, you can always seek help from specialists who always have various photos of the devices necessary for such work that can help in connection.

Filling the heating system with water in the video:

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How to pour water into an open heating system

In order to fill the open heating system of a private house with a coolant, a slightly different procedure is used. The main difference from closed networks lies in the internal pressure of the circuit: here it corresponds to atmospheric pressure, which makes it possible to use an expansion tank as the main control device. In open heating systems, it is mounted above all other elements.

Step-by-step instructions for filling an open heating system with water:

Draining the old fluid and cleaning the circuit. This is done in the same way as in the case of a closed system.

To fill water into an open system, an expansion tank is used, which looks like an open tank. After removing the lid, they begin to pour water: filling a small circuit is usually done with a bucket. Filling large systems in this way is quite tedious, so it is better to use a household vibration pump. This will require a capacious tank with pre-prepared water. The pump is equipped with flexible hoses on clamps: one end is immersed in a container of water, and the other in an expansion tank.

Extended tank

It is recommended to supply water slowly so that the air has enough time to escape. When using a vibration pump, it is necessary to ensure that the pressure in the circuit during its filling is within 1.5-2 atm. When it is lowered, more water is added to the preparation tank so that it is possible to immerse the suction hose deeper. The water supply is shut off after it begins to pour into the expansion tank.

At the end of the procedure, it is necessary to free the circuit from air pockets. To do this, Mayevsky's taps are opened in turn on all existing radiators, closing them only after the appearance of water. In order not to soak the floor, it is recommended to substitute a portable container under the taps. After releasing the gas from all batteries, top up the water in the tank. As practice shows, the final release of the open system from air occurs through the expander after the first furnace.

During intensive use of open heating (most often in winter), the coolant will gradually evaporate through the expansion tank. This is explained by the high temperature of the coolant. To maintain the performance of the system, it must be periodically topped up, making sure that its temperature does not rise above +80 degrees.

How to distinguish a closed heating system from an open one

The process of filling heating with water largely depends on its design:

Open. This system uses the natural circulation of the coolant (usually water), when there is no additional pressure. The basis of its work is the elementary laws of thermodynamics: the liquid circulates here slowly, because an additional pump is not used. At the highest point of the open circuit, a special expansion tank is mounted to compensate for the increase in water volume when heated. This container takes in excess water during expansion, returning it back in a cooled state. The tank is not airtight, so the liquid constantly evaporates from it: its volume has to be replenished from time to time. The boiler in an open system, as opposed to the tank, should be mounted at the very bottom of the diagram.

Open heating system

Closed. A completely sealed system in which the heated coolant moves under the influence of a circulation pump. Closed-type heating is also equipped with an expansion tank, however, unlike an open system, it is completely sealed here and can be installed anywhere in the system, and not just from above. Inside the container there are two compartments separated by a rubber membrane. The lower part of the expansion tank is filled with liquid, and the upper part is filled with air: due to its pressure on the membrane, a comfortable pressure level (1.5 atm.) is maintained in the circuit. When the temperature of the coolant rises, it penetrates through the valve into the expansion tank and compresses the air. After cooling, the liquid is pushed back into the circuit by compressed gas.

Closed heating system

The list of situations when there is a need to fill the heating system with water:

On first start. As already mentioned, this procedure is usually carried out by those plumbers who were involved in the installation of the heating system.

Repair. The preliminary discharge of the coolant is accompanied by repair measures when it is necessary to repair or replace the shut-off valves, radiator, pipeline section, etc.

After seasonal reset. Systems with cast-iron radiators are tried to be emptied after the end of the heating season, as this reduces the wear of intersectional paronite gaskets by an order of magnitude. In addition, in some cases, the coolant can also be drained for the winter: this usually happens in country houses that are not used in winter.

Reducing the quality of the coolant. The fluid inside the system is constantly exposed to critical influences, either heating up or cooling down. This provokes precipitation (if water is used) in the form of lime and rust. For synthetic coolants, such an operating mode is fraught with the fact that the viscosity level changes. You should also take into account the fact that in metal circuits, the liquid gradually accumulates iron impurities in itself. All this leads to a decrease in the efficiency of heating and its operational resource, up to the failure of individual elements. Therefore, there are certain recommendations on the frequency of replacement of the coolant, depending on the situation. For example, it is recommended to change distilled water in a system with a double-circuit boiler once a year, before the start of a new heating season.

The choice of coolant

First, a few words about what liquids can be used to fill the heating system. Here are the key properties of popular coolants.

Water

Price: minimal (when pumping from a water supply system with a water meter installed at the entrance to the house - from 20 rubles per cubic meter);
Heat capacity: high (4183 J/(kg deg) at +20°С);
Viscosity: low (which means a small load on the circulation pump);
Corrosivity: medium (steel in contact with water rusts only in the presence of oxygen);
Toxicity: absent;
: 0.03%/deg.

For heating, it is better to use distilled water, which does not conduct electricity and has minimal corrosive activity.

Antifreeze

Antifreeze was developed several decades ago as a winter filler for water cooling systems for automotive engines. Nowadays, it is often used as a winter coolant. The numerical designation in the marking of antifreeze (30, 40 or 65) means its freezing temperature.

Price: from 40 rubles per kilogram for wholesale deliveries and from 60 for retail;
Heat capacity: medium (3520 J/(kg deg));
Viscosity: high (the load on the pump increases due to the increase in the hydraulic resistance of the system);
Corrosivity: low due to anti-corrosion additives;
Toxicity: high (the composition of the original antifreeze includes poisonous ethylene glycol);
Heating expansion coefficient: 0.05%/deg. The larger the expansion coefficient, the larger the expansion tank must be in a closed heating system. It is he who compensates for the expansion of the coolant with increasing temperature.

Antifreeze - antifreeze for water cooling systems of motors.

Due to zero corrosion activity, antifreeze creates leaks at the slightest violation of the tightness of the heating circuit. Water and other coolants quickly clog small leaks with rust and crystallizing mineral salts.

propylene glycol

Based on propylene glycol, non-freezing heat transfer fluids are produced, designed specifically for heating systems.

Propylene glycol-based coolant package.

Price: from 100 rubles per kilogram;
Heat capacity: low (2400 J/(kg deg));

Propylene glycol is used in the form of an aqueous solution. Mixing with water increases its heat capacity to the level of antifreeze (3500-4000 J/(kg·deg) depending on the proportion of the mixture).

Viscosity: high;
Corrosivity: low due to additives;
Toxicity: zero (canisters with coolant are marked in green and the designation "Eco");

Polypropylene glycol mixed with glycerin is used as a cosmetic preparation.

Heating expansion coefficient: approx. 0.05%/deg.

Brine

A concentrated solution of common salt, calcium chloride and other salts can also be used as a coolant: its freezing point is inversely proportional to the salt concentration. This is a typical budget solution, which is limited to use only in open systems with natural circulation.

Price: from 5 rubles per 1 kg of table salt;
Heat capacity: low (at 30% concentration - 2700 J/(kg deg);
Viscosity: low;
Corrosivity: extremely high. Salt literally corrodes steel pipes;

This is how steel is exposed to contact with sea water - brine with a small concentration of salts.

Toxicity: null;
Heat expansion: approx. 0.03%/deg.

At high brine concentrations and slow movement of the coolant in the system, excess salts will gradually be deposited on the pipe walls, reducing their cross section. In a forced circulation circuit, the brine has a detrimental effect on the pump: the shaft and impeller are overgrown with crystals, which leads to a drop in performance.

conclusions

The instructions for choosing a coolant are pretty obvious:

If you have the opportunity to maintain a positive temperature in the house throughout the entire heating season, it is best to fill the heating circuit with water. Better - distilled, but you can use drinking or even well;
If the cottage is periodically left without heating, your choice is non-freezing coolants based on propylene glycol.

Freezing point of antifreeze depending on the concentration of the solution.

Flushing the system

We fill the heating system with water to a pressure of 2 bar, after which we turn on the circulation pump. If there is a system of primary-secondary rings or the boiler is connected directly to the system, then you can immediately start the boiler and without heating or with minimal heating, we allow the system to work for about an hour.

After that, we check the condition of the mud filter. If it is clean, then the flush is considered complete. If there is dirt in it, then you need to clean the mesh, start the system again, let it work for half an hour and look at the condition of the filter again. Rinsing is considered complete, after half an hour there will be no dirt on the filter mesh.

The flushing water must be drained from the heating system, the residues must be removed with a compressor. After that, you can start filling the system with a working coolant.

Conclusion

The conclusion is very simple. In order to avoid problems, it is necessary to choose the right heating scheme (closed two-pipe), design convenient places in the system for filling and draining the coolant, and when creating it, monitor the slopes of the pipes. And you won't have any problems! You will live and be happy!

And if you do not live in the house permanently, but only come a couple of times during the winter, then instead of using antifreeze, I would very much think about electric heating. It will be much cheaper, by the way.

I hope that the process of filling your heating system will not bring you negative emotions. Dmitry Belkin

Article created 09.09.2015

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Filling the heating system is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. Some users drive air through pipes for a long time, do not heat up at cold radiators, and complain about improper installation, although in fact the issue is in the wrong filling.
How and what to fill in radiators and underfloor heating, more on this later, but first a few words about proper installation.

System design for hassle-free pouring

If there is no gravity flow in the drain of the system, i.e. the drain cock is not the lowest point, then it will be possible to drain the system completely only by blowing air from the compressor. Such a scheme is now being used more and more, as more and more houses are being made, and it becomes difficult or not possible to set a gravity drain.

With this option of draining, the pouring tap can also play the role of a creamy one. It is installed on the return line in front of the cleaning filter at the boiler, if possible at the lowest point of the pipes, in order to drain the maximum by gravity.

Autofill not allowed

To fill such a tap, they usually put on a rubber hose, which is connected to the plumbing system, or to the pump if a special liquid is poured.
It is impossible to make a permanent connection of this tap to the water supply - you can forget to close it, it can leak. It is unacceptable to equip and automatic make-up from the water supply when the pressure in the system drops. All this threatens with siltation, failure of components with a constant exchange of water, which users will not notice.

To bleed air, the system is provided

All radiators are supplied with Mayevsky cranes for air bleeding. Also, air valves, preferably manual rather than automatic, should be installed on all U-shaped non-typical pipe elevations, if any. For example, when bypassing a door or near a high-mounted indirect heating boiler.

An automatic air vent is always present in automated boilers and this is sufficient for the system. With a non-automated boiler, a safety group is used, installed at the highest point of the pipes (supply at the outlet of the boiler) and equipped with such a device.

What water to fill in the system

The system needs to be filled with ordinary tap water, it will work satisfactorily on it all the time. When designing the elements, they were calculated for the usual aggressiveness of water. Pour boiled, distilled water, or additional additives - create problems and waste money.

Plain water is the best coolant for the system. Filling anti-freeze based on toxic glycols is an exceptionally necessary measure when the system is often left unattended in the off state in winter.

Using an anti-freeze

Antifreezes for home heating systems based on propylene glycol or ethylene glycol have several major drawbacks.

Both substances belong to the same hazard group - poisons.
They have less heat capacity, less heat transfer - the speed of movement through the pipes should be greater, in large houses this feature is taken into account in the project.
They foam, it is more difficult to get rid of airing.
They are expensive.
They must be changed after a specified period and no later, and again spend money.
It is unacceptable to drain them into the sewer - you need to take them out for recycling for money.

Ethylene seems to be more preferable than propylene - it is 2 times cheaper, it foams less. But it is more poisonous, but with normal careful use this is not a critical drawback - both the first and second types belong to harmful substances.

Ways to fill the radiator system

Filling from a water pipe using a rubber hose worn on tap fittings is the simplest. It is enough to open the tap and fill the radiator with coolant to a pressure of 2 atm. Usually in water pipes the pressure is the same or a little more.

If a special liquid is poured from containers, you will have to use a pump. Usually they invite specialists who have submersible electric pumps. A manual water pump can also be used.

There are times when there is no electricity or pressurized water supply, and there is no pump. Then you can fill the system with a long hose and a large funnel. Climbing up to the attic, the roof, creating a height difference of 5 meters, you can create a pressure of 0.5 atm at which the system will work. But one should always strive to create an optimal pressure of 1.5 - 2.0 atm, for better operation of automatic air vents.

Air bleeding during pouring

Before filling, expansion tanks must be filled with air at a pressure of 1.5 - 1.7 atm.

With any filling method, water must displace air from the system, which must have a free exit. At the top point, the air valve opens and the main part of the air exits through it.

After reaching the working pressure, it is necessary to bleed air from all radiators and other points where there are Mayevsky taps. Then top up the system again to the nominal pressure.

Bringing the system to working condition after pouring

In radiators, in pipes, after pouring, it is possible to find small air bags at height differences. They will be gradually eliminated in the process of fluid movement.

There is a lot of dissolved air in the coolant itself, which will collect into bubbles, accumulate in the highest places (at the air vents), and create foam.

Therefore, after pouring, the system is allowed to work, to reach the nominal temperature. During the warm-up process, manual bleeding of air is repeatedly done through all Mayevsky taps, and the system is topped up to the nominal pressure.

Cold radiators remain, what to do

It is not uncommon for the last radiators in dead-end branches to remain cold after filling and test run. At the same time, the coolant comes out of the tap. This means that there are air pockets in the pipes.

The problem can be solved if the branches parallel to this radiator are blocked, more often it is enough to close the radiators adjacent to it at a dead end with cranes. Then the pump will be able to push through these plugs and the air will go to the automatic air vent in the boiler or to other taps.

When there is a lot of foam, the pump makes noise after filling

There is so much dissolved air in the coolant that even water, due to pressure drops, foams on the pump impeller. This can be heard from the characteristic noise emitted by the pump - it works in air bubbles.

To eliminate it, it is enough to stop the pump, wait 15-30 minutes, during which time the air accumulates in large bubbles, goes to the outlet points.

Antifreeze foams easily and noise and abnormal pumping can be a headache. To eliminate it, first you need to think again “why they poured ethylene glycol”, then wait for hours, and bleed, bleed the air on the taps.

Filling the warm floor

If it is better to supply the coolant to the radiator system from the return line (they do it) to displace air upwards, then to the underfloor heating collector - only from the supply, in the direction of the liquid in working condition. Otherwise, the control valves may not let through ... At the supply, a tap opens and the coolant enters the distribution manifold.

Before that, all valves on the pipelines are closed, then one valve is opened and its circuit is filled until the coolant exits at the drain valve of the collector (from which it is desirable to organize the hose into a bucket).

So all the contours are filled in turn, after which the warm floor is considered flooded.

Airing the loop can be eliminated by punching, with the closure of parallel branches, but this state of affairs is a mistake in creation - height difference, etc.

Expansion tank (damper) - necessary element of water heating.

Due to the property of a liquid to expand in volume when heated and remain incompressible, the pressure in the system rises, and the water needs to go somewhere.

Damper compensates for pressure in the system and accumulates temporary excess fluid.

Location of expansion tank for heating

Heating systems are open (gravity) and closed (autonomous) type. Due to differences in the principle of operation, different expansion tanks are used in these systems. Depending on the type of heating, the location of the device also changes.

Photo 1. The device of an expansion tank for heating systems. The arrows show parts of the structure.

With natural circulation air accumulates at the highest point in the system, and a hydraulic accumulator is installed there. A leaky container allows excess water and trapped air to escape freely.

With forced circulation to remove air, special taps are provided. A sealed tank is used to maintain a constant pressure in the system. Such heating will function correctly at any position of the damper.

Rules and place of installation

Properly selected and installed device not only compensates for thermal expansion and stabilizes pressure, but also:

neutralizes the effect of elevated temperatures on equipment;
increases the service life of all elements of the system;
improves reliability and safety.

Attention! The boiler can be a finished mini-boiler room with built-in pump and expander. In this case, you just need to make sure that the volume of the tank will be enough.

Where to put the device in an open system

Dampers are used for non-volatile heating from steel sheets or polymeric materials. The tank is a square or rectangular container equipped with a leaky lid to protect against debris, pipes for connecting heating lines and an outlet pipe.

Photo 2. Scheme of an open heating system. The expansion tank, installed at the highest point of the structure, is indicated in red.

Since the walls and seams of the product are in constant contact with moisture and air, they susceptible to corrosion. It is good if there is a drain valve on the tank for repair work or replacement of the device.

Installing the tank in an open system held at its highest point. Often the device is placed in the attic. Then it is worth providing a pipe for topping up water. It will be necessary to additionally insulate the tank to avoid heat loss. If you place the device on a riser immediately above the boiler, then the temperature of the coolant entering the tank is will always be the highest which can be a source of noise. Therefore, it is better to place the tank on the return stroke.

Important! Expansion tank mount must be reliable.

How to install in a closed system and where better to put

The device for a volatile system provides complete tightness and the presence of a membrane(dish-shaped or pear-shaped), separating the air and water parts of the tank. When water enters, the flat diaphragm expands towards the air section, increasing the volume of the container.

In a tank with a pear-shaped membrane, the coolant enters a rubber balloon, which, as it grows, compresses the air around.

Liquid does not come into contact with metal which prolongs the life of the product. In addition, the balloon membrane can be replaced if damaged, but the poppet membrane cannot.

The position of the tank in space also matters. When liquid enters from below, it is more convenient to drain it from the reservoir. But air bubbles getting inside will reduce the usable volume. The location of the container with the valve up this will eliminate, and the drain will facilitate the shut-off valve in front of the device.

It is important to provide easy access to the damper for later service. If you install the device on the return line this will avoid excessively high temperatures. A montage before circulation pump will protect against strong pressure surges.

Useful video

Watch a video that explains how to choose the right expansion tank for your heating system.

1. Types of expansion tanks
2. Features of the installation of expansion tanks
3. Mistakes made when installing the expansion tank

Today, it is possible to equip a heat supply system in a private house as soon as possible.

The main thing that is necessary for this is sufficient financial capabilities of the property owner, and then the planned will be implemented, since the domestic building materials market offers a wide selection of heating equipment and components.

One of the highlights of creating a system is the installation of an expansion tank in the heating system.

It is on him that the performance of the heating network of a private house largely depends.

Types of expansion tanks

The place where the expansion tank of the heating system should be installed, such as in the photo, is determined based on the type of construction, which happens:

open;
closed.

It should be noted that open-type heating systems are rarely installed today.

They are found in buildings built about a few decades ago. The expansion tank, the device of which is made according to an open type, has the form of a container with an open upper part and a threaded connection at the bottom, at the bottom. Through it, an open-type expansion tank is connected for heating. The tank of this outdated model is located in the highest place of the system.

In a closed-type heating structure, an expansion device is used, the installation and further operation of which have their own characteristics and differences.

The tank is made in the form of a sealed capsule with two chambers separated from each other by a rubber membrane. Therefore, the product is also called a membrane expansion tank of the heating system.

The device of an expansion tank of a closed type is allowed anywhere in the heating network, with the exception of the tie-in tank after the circulation pump in its immediate vicinity.

Otherwise, pressure surges throughout the system are possible.
The principle of operation of a closed type tank is simple. After the coolant has heated up and increased in volume, its excess fills the empty space in the membrane device. As a result, the pressure in the system continues to remain at an acceptable level (read: “We make the selection of an expansion tank for heating”).

The installation of an expansion tank in the heating system is carried out taking into account some points:

installation of the device is allowed in a room where the temperature does not fall below zero;
easy access to the air valve should be provided in order to regulate the pressure in the air part of the tank if necessary;
when the installation of the device is completed, access to the shut-off equipment, drain cock and nameplate must be available;
it is impossible to allow the application of a static load to the membrane tank (pressure from pipes and other devices);
if the reducer is located after the water meter, such a measure will allow maintaining a constant initial pressure in the membrane tank.
When the safety valve is triggered, the pressure should not exceed the level of the maximum allowable working pressure in the tank (read: “Safety valve for heating - what are there, how to use it correctly”);
the expansion tank for heating is fastened in such a way that the safety valve is up to the flow fittings in the direction of the coolant.

The heating scheme with an expansion tank always provides that its installation is carried out only from the side from which cold water is supplied to the heating boiler.

Installing an outlet device is prohibited.

Mistakes made when installing an expansion tank

Many property owners try to do many of the work on arranging the heat supply system on their own, including mounting an expansion tank with their own hands.

At first glance, it seems that there will be no problems with such work, but in reality it has certain difficulties, which are well known to specialists.

The most common mistakes made when installing an expansion tank in a heating network occur for a number of reasons:

lack of a complete set of necessary tools or their poor quality.
When doing work, they often use keys - universal (gas) and adjustable.

In addition to them, a special key is also required, which is necessary when installing a metal-plastic pipeline, and a stepped key for detachable connections;
application for sealing materials that are not intended for these purposes. For example, instead of high-quality sealant, they use cheap products for PVC windows, which are intended for a different temperature regime.
The first time after applying the connections look attractive, but after commissioning the heating structure, this type of sealant cannot withstand the load and high operating temperatures.

Expansion tank for heating - installation diagram in open and closed systems

It is good if a leak is found as a result, but often the consequences are more serious;
the installation of an expansion tank in the heating system was made in a hard-to-reach place and the approach is almost impossible;
the calculation of the volume that the expansion tank should have is incorrectly calculated, or the device was purchased at random.

It should be noted that the installation and fastening of the heating expansion tank must be carried out in accordance with accepted norms and rules that ensure safe operation.

Before installation, you must correctly determine the installation location of the device.

After the installation of the expansion membrane tank is completed on its own, everything seems to look great, and the inaccuracies made at the same time are invisible. The disadvantages will become apparent after the heating season has started, and most importantly, this will happen at the most inopportune moment.

For example, it is cold outside, and the heating system is out of order.
Watch a video on installing an expansion tank in a heating system:

In order not to run into problems in the future, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the recommendations from the manufacturer for the installation of such an element of the heat supply system as an expansion tank.

This information will help to avoid unnecessary expenses: time, physical and financial.

One of the key elements of the cooling system in a modern car is the expansion tank. This is a kind of reserve reservoir for an additional amount of liquid during the operation of the system.

I'm thinking about the meaning of the reservoir looking for faults in the thermostat or the radiator itself.

However, expansion vessel problems are often caused by air overload in the cooling system, which leaves the car without heat during the cold season.

An alarming symptom for the car owner is the regular overheating of the engine. It is important to check the status of this part, but first you need to know exactly how the device works.

What is the purpose of an expansion vessel and how does it work?

The urgent need for such a reservoir was created when a special liquid was used instead of cooling water, which is able to maintain its physical properties even at extremely low temperatures.

The basis of these solutions is alcohol and ethylene glycol (rarely propylene glycol).

As it heats up, the alcohol expands and starts to seep through the pressurized radiator fan valve. During the ICE cooling process, the temperature of the antifreeze or antifreeze is reduced by the formation of an empty void.

How to fill the expansion vessel for heating?

The spaces are filled with air, which, with the subsequent activation of the engine, creates plugs that prevent the free passage of fluid into the cooling system. This can lead to a general overheating of the engine.

To avoid overheating problems, an expansion vessel was supported, which was connected to the radiator by a pipe. The center of the reservoir is at the level of the top of the radiator, so that the heated fluid rises and freely flows from the radiator space into the reservoir.

The hose itself is attached to the bottom of the unit, allowing excess antifreeze or antifreeze to flow back to the radiator during cooling without air being drawn in.

Where is the expansion tank

In different models, the tanks are located in the most suitable areas of the cooling system.

A container is needed next to the radiator.

The material for the manufacture of the container is durable and transparent plastic. In one part of the product there are always scale marks that allow you to control the level of antifreeze in the system. The last risk on the bottom shows the minimum liquid level.

The maximum amount of cold wind antifreeze should be just over 30 mm above the upper risk level on the tank scale.

Main problems and malfunction of the expansion vessel

Most often, car owners complain about a problem such as a leaking expansion vessel.

This may be due to a violation of the integrity of the tank (for example, after a bad parking or other collision), as well as violations of the pipeline that connects the drain tank and the radiator.

The strong pressure in the container is emptied using a special release valve on the container lid. It is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the cover, remove it from the scale and corrosion, otherwise the valve and the entire system will quickly work.

An error in the expansion vessel causes a strong drop in the liquid in the engine cooling system, which has a very negative effect on its operation.

Installation of an expansion tank for closed-type heating

Installing an expansion tank for closed-type heating allows you to equip a heat supply system in a private house in the shortest possible time.

The main thing in this business is enough finances for the implementation of the conceived idea. Today, the Russian building materials market presents a wide range of thermal equipment, as well as components for heat supply schemes.

When arranging a heating system, it is very important to install a closed type heating expansion tank.

In the future, the functionality of the entire heating network of the dwelling will depend on this detail.

Types of expansion tanks

Elements to prevent air leakage into the line are of different designs.

Based on this, a specific installation of the expansion tank of the heating system is carried out. There are closed and open heat supply schemes.

Installing an expansion tank in an open heating system is rarely used.

As a rule, it is typical for buildings of the Soviet period. The expansion tank, the design of which is made according to this type, is a container with an open top and a threaded connection at the bottom, at the bottom. Using such a connector, an open type element is connected to the heating circuit. The scheme for installing an open expansion tank for heating - provides that it must be located at the highest point of the system.

The closed-type heating structure has a special device, so the installation of an expansion tank for closed-type heating has its own characteristics.

The container is made as a sealed capsule, which has two chambers separated by a rubber membrane. Therefore, this design is also called a membrane tank of the heating system. This part is used anywhere in the heating system except for the place behind the circulation pump, as well as directly next to it.

Failure to comply with this precaution may result in pressure drops within the system.

The scheme for installing an expansion tank in a closed-type heating system is simple.

The heated coolant expands, its excess squeezes air out of the membrane device, and the system pressure remains unchanged.

Features of mounting expansion tanks

The installation of a vacuum heating expansion tank must be carried out taking into account some aspects:

installation of the structure is carried out in a room with positive temperature;
it is necessary to provide free access to the air valve to adjust the pressure if necessary;
upon completion of the installation of the tank, access to the drain valve and shut-off equipment is left free;
the scheme for installing a membrane expansion tank for heating is carried out so that the safety valve is located before the flow fitting.

In order to properly install the expansion tank in the heating system, you will need the following tools:

adjustable and stepped wrench;
wrench for mounting PVC pipes.

First, you should do the preparatory stage, which includes disconnecting the boiler from gas supply, electricity or water supply.

Then the valve is closed, which is responsible for the circulation of the coolant, it is drained from the system.

Step-by-step steps for installing an expansion tank in a closed heating system:

Why do you need an expansion tank for a closed heating system?

Install a drain and stopcock on the supply pipe to drain and shut off the water.

2. Connect the expansion vessel to the system using screws.

If the options for installing an expansion tank in the heating system require the presence of polypropylene pipes, a soldering machine, fittings, couplings and corners should be used.

Before installing the fitting, it is necessary to wrap linen tape around the thread and apply sealing paste.

4. After draining the water system, cut the pipe with scissors and install a tee.

Before putting the system into operation, be sure to blow out the coarse filter.

Be sure to check the working pressure with the pump.

7. After connecting the expansion tank to the network, start all the coolant supply valves, turn on the boiler.

It is advisable to install a safety valve that comes with the tank; if it is not available, it should be bought separately.

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– Private house – heating installation and pipe laying options

In order to compensate for the thermal expansion of the coolant in the heating system, tanks of an open or closed type are arranged. They come with natural and forced circulation. The volume of the liquid tends to change, as the coolant expands and contracts during operation.

To stabilize the pressure on the internal walls of the elements in the heating system, as well as to compensate for changes in the volume of liquid, expansion tanks are used.

Types of tanks
2. Expansion tank open type
2.1 Advantages and disadvantages
2.2 How an open tank works. Installation rules
3. Expansion tank of closed type
3.1 Membraneless tanks
3.2 Diaphragm tanks
3.3 Advantages and disadvantages of a membrane tank
3.4 How to choose a membrane tank
3.5 Installing closed expanders

Types of tanks

There are two types of expansion tank:

Expansion tank of open type.
Expansion tank of the closed type.

When the temperature of the liquid in the pipeline decreases and for its natural return, an open-type tank is installed at the highest point of the heating system.

A tank of this type is a volumetric container that communicates with the atmosphere.

The expansion tank of a closed type has the form of a sealed vessel, which is filled in one half with liquid, and in the other with gas or air, which is under pressure.

After heating, the liquid moves into the expander, and the gas is compressed at this time. The liquid is returned back after cooling, and the resulting difference in volume is filled with gas.

Expansion tank open type

Let us consider in more detail all the features of an open type tank. The tank is used with a small leak to replenish water. And also for air intake from the system.

Such a tank can be cylindrical or rectangular and is usually made of steel or polymeric materials.

Since the expansion mat is installed at the top, the heating pipelines must be long. For maintenance of this device, as well as cleaning from contamination, a cover is provided on top of the tank.

You can install an open-type expansion tank in a special room on the roof of the house, in a stairway or in the attic.

If your house has high ceilings, then such a tank is well placed in a bathroom or household. room. If the containers go beyond the heated room, then they should be insulated to avoid heat loss.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of open tanks:

Relieves pressure and removes air from the heating system.
Low cost device.

The disadvantages include:

Large heat loss and the need for insulation of some elements.
Before installation, it is necessary to arrange additional heating pipelines.
Since the system evaporates a certain amount of coolant, it is necessary to replenish it periodically.
Possibility of corrosion of steel elements due to contact with the atmosphere.

Due to the shortcomings of this equipment, it is used less and less, giving preference to closed tanks.

How does an open tank work?
Installation rules

To prevent stagnation of water in the tank, it is necessary to arrange circulation. A contour is arranged between the tank and the main pipeline. It should consist of a circulation and expansion pipe. The opening of the circulation pipe must be located 0.5 cm below the expansion pipe.

Due to the circulation from the heating system, air bubbles are released into the atmosphere. Such a system is suitable for forced circulation. If the system is equipped with natural circulation, then it is necessary to connect an expander at the top of the supply pipe.

Expansion tank closed type

The tank of the closed type has the form of a sealed vessel, which is made of steel. Part of the tank is filled with an inert gas, and the second part is filled with liquid. The expansion tank of the closed type is of two types: membrane and membraneless.

Membraneless tanks

In such tanks there is no internal separation of space, so the coolant is in direct contact with the gas.

A gas cylinder or compressor is installed outside to maintain pressure inside the tank. Gas supply and pressure control occur automatically.

Membrane tanks

Membrane tanks are more popular, as they are separated by a flexible membrane. Therefore, gas and liquid do not come into contact.

There are tanks with a disk-shaped membrane and with a pear-shaped (balloon) membrane.

The first membrane is attached in the middle of the tank and looks like a hemisphere.

It can become concave or convex depending on changes in water temperature.

The second membrane is similar to a vessel and is attached to different ends of the vessel. There is gas between the membrane and metal walls, so the coolant does not come into contact with the walls of the tank. Therefore, such a tank is protected from corrosion and has a long service life.

In this tank, the membrane can be replaced. Expanders are produced with butyl and ethylene propylene membranes. They are highly durable.

Advantages and disadvantages of a membrane tank

Advantages of a membrane tank:

It is not necessary to arrange thermal insulation;
Heat loss is minimal;
Operates at high pressure;
Small size;
You can install the tank almost anywhere;
The tank is well protected against corrosion, as it does not come into direct contact with the atmosphere.

The disadvantages include:

Periodic pumping of air or gas;
Great cost;
The pressure in the system must be controlled.

How to choose a membrane tank

Membrane tanks are oval and flat with a diaphragm.

The second option is more compact, it can be installed between the wall and the interior. Thus, you will save space in your home. The main parameters of such a tank is the required volume of liquid. It is pre-calculated.

The service life of the tank depends on the quality and parameters of the membrane.

The main characteristics of the membrane:

The material from which the membrane is made.
Operating temperatures and pressure.
diffusion stability.

Tanks that are used for heating are painted red, and those used for the water supply system are painted blue.

Installation of closed expanders

If the tank is closed type with forced circulation, it is recommended to install it before the circulation pump.

Installation can be done in any position, but the best option would be the top fluid supply. Since the air bubbles will be discharged naturally. The tank will work even if the membrane is damaged.

Some heaters already have an expansion tank built in, in which case there is no need to install an additional one.

Do-it-yourself installation and installation of an expansion tank in the heating system

If you decide to change the water to another coolant, you may have to replace the tank with a higher volume. But you can also install an additional expander.

When installing a closed type tank with natural circulation, it is necessary to install an automatic float valve. It is arranged at the top of the system to release air when the system is full. If, when using the tank, you notice that its volume is not enough for you, instead of buying a new one, it will be more profitable to install an additional tank of the right size.

Heating expansion tank attachment. What and how to fill the heating system in a private house: the choice of coolant, solutions for open and closed systems. Among the advantages are

The principle of operation of the expansion tank

Varieties of expansion tanks for heating

Calculation of an expansion tank for heating

Installation of an expansion tank for open heating

Installation of a closed expansion tank

Maintenance of expansion tank for heating

What water is better to fill in the heating system

Conclusion

Filling a closed heating system with tap water

How to pour water from below

Strategy #1 (quick)

Strategy #2 (long)

Strategy #3 (intermediate)

The choice of coolant what to fill in the home system

Can the system be filled with tap water

Synthetic coolants: application features

Selection of pressure values ​​in the system and expansion tank

Conclusion

open system

Starting an open heating system

Work rules

System check and maintenance

Filling the heating system with antifreeze

Filling the heating system with antifreeze video

Choosing a coolant

Independent installation of a radiator heating system

Precaution and safety

Don't Forget the Nuances

Types of heating systems in private houses

How to fill the system not with water, but with another substance

Preparatory stage

Replacing the coolant causes and frequency

Why drain water from a home system

The frequency of replacing and topping up fluid in the heating system

Flushing the system before starting

Closed type heating circuit

Closed heating system. How to properly fill with water

Filling the system with antifreeze

Features of starting a closed heating system with distilled water

Popular tags

How to pour water into an open heating system

How to distinguish a closed heating system from an open one

The choice of coolant

Water

Antifreeze

propylene glycol

Brine

conclusions

Flushing the system

Conclusion

System design for hassle-free pouring

Autofill not allowed

To bleed air, the system is provided

What water to fill in the system

Using an anti-freeze

Ways to fill the radiator system

Air bleeding during pouring

Bringing the system to working condition after pouring

Cold radiators remain, what to do

When there is a lot of foam, the pump makes noise after filling

Filling the warm floor

Location of expansion tank for heating

Rules and place of installation

Where to put the device in an open system

How to install in a closed system and where better to put

Useful video

Types of expansion tanks

Mistakes made when installing an expansion tank

Expansion tank for heating - installation diagram in open and closed systems

What is the purpose of an expansion vessel and how does it work?

How to fill the expansion vessel for heating?

Where is the expansion tank

Main problems and malfunction of the expansion vessel

Installation of an expansion tank for closed-type heating

Types of expansion tanks

Features of mounting expansion tanks

Why do you need an expansion tank for a closed heating system?

Types of tanks

Expansion tank open type

Selection of pressure values in the system and expansion tank

How does an open tank work?
Installation rules