home Audience 2 A simple homemade utilitarian frame for special glasses. How are vision glasses made? How Siberians make money from wood and skillful hands

A simple homemade utilitarian frame for special glasses. How are vision glasses made? How Siberians make money from wood and skillful hands

There are few things in the modern world that remain virtually unchanged since their invention. Glasses fall under this definition. They were invented in Italy around the 13th century, and their form has remained virtually unchanged since then. Two arms and a pair of lenses - this design is simple and convenient. How are modern glasses made?

The basis of glasses is the frame. Today, it is not only a holder for lenses, but also an important element of style, because glasses have become a fashion accessory. The material from which the frame is made determines its appearance, strength, anti-allergenic properties, and service life. The production uses a range of materials to make frames: polymers, carbon, wood, even mammoth tusks or horns for designer eyewear collections.

Despite this diversity, the main materials for frames remain plastic and metals. Moreover, each type has its own advantages.

High-quality polymer frames do not freeze in the cold and do not heat up in the heat. They can accommodate different lenses, which is convenient when wearing glasses with certain clothing styles. Their surface is very smooth, they are anti-allergenic, since the dye is inside the plastic. Polymer frames have a wide range of colors and are available in thousands of shades.

Metal frames are made from hypoallergenic alloys and can also be painted in different colors. Modern technologies make it possible to make metal very comfortable to the touch. They are much thinner and more elegant than polymer ones. Only from metal can an almost invisible frame be made - this applies to half-rimmed and rimless glasses.

The choice depends on the person’s tastes, the shape of his face, and the color type of clothing. Optical stores and online stores offer a huge range of frames for every taste.

How are glasses lenses made?

Many glasses users are interested in how glasses lenses are made? After all, glasses are made to order according to individual eye parameters after the ophthalmologist writes a prescription. Let's tell you how this process happens.

After the frame is selected, the master selects a blank for the lenses. Previously, they were made of glass, but modern models use high-quality plastic: it is lighter, cheaper and has much more processing capabilities.

First, the lens passes through a diopter meter. This is a device that measures the refractive power of a lens and expresses it in diopters. The technician then scans the frame and matches its data with the lens. During the scanning process, absolutely all parameters of the frame are determined: shape, base curvature, profile of the internal bevel groove in the frame, which is an important factor in calculating the dimensions of the finished lens. After this scan, the processed lens will exactly match the frame.

At the next stage, the master places the workpiece in the centering chamber, where the system will determine the optical center of the lens, its refraction, cylinder axis, progressive lens marking or bifocal segment. After receiving this data, the workpiece is placed in the turning machine. Thanks to the EAS cycle, the machine itself selects the force with which it is necessary to press on the surface of the workpiece during circular turning. The duration of this process takes no more than one minute, and the entire manufacturing procedure takes no more than 20 minutes.

Here we look at how to make a reliable homemade frame for technical safety glasses for lampwork. The technology can be used as the basis for the manufacture of frames for brutal biker sunglasses or in the steampunk style. Decorative cutting with a (jewelry) jigsaw and . Vision-correcting glasses require an order of magnitude more attention when designing and manufacturing; making frames for them yourself can only be done by carefully studying the theoretical part and being fully aware of the consequences.

A bespectacled person is a friend, comrade, and spare glasses for a bespectacled person!

Glasses with the frame described below were required for special neodymium reflector glasses with a thickness of 3 mm. These are safety glasses for glassblowing that protect your eyes from harmful radiation and make your work much more convenient. Neodymium (didimium) glasses in general, but in this application it is important that -

“Magenta, violet and gray-green glass with a mixture of neodymium and praseodymium (ACE and Green ACE glass) is used in the lenses of didymium glasses for glassblowers, lampworkers and welders: it absorbs narrow-spectrum emission radiation from sodium atoms when working with glass torches . The bright flame almost disappears through such glasses, does not irritate the eyes and does not interfere with seeing the heated glass. Sometimes these lenses are coated with a mirror layer that reflects heat rays harmful to the eyes;"

The cost of ready-made glasses of this kind is quite high, so an attempt was made to make something that you can do yourself. Two blanks were purchased - circles ø60 mm made of neodymium glass 3 mm thick.

These glasses are significantly thicker and heavier than ordinary spectacle lenses; inserting them into cheap soft frames is risky, and irrational into expensive ones (it would have been easier to buy ready-made glasses).

Special “glasses” little things for the job were taken from cheap plastic frames from Ali Express. Cheap Chinese frames, as a rule, are purely decorative - they are small in size, have a soft, fragile plastic frame and thin transparent plastic “lenses”.

When fixing the glass, the principle used was used - the edges of the glass are covered with copper foil (the edges of the glass are enclosed in a C-shaped profile) and soldered.

What was used for work

Tools, equipment.

To work with glass - an oil glass cutter (preferably for curved cuts, with a narrow head), but you can get by with a glass grinding machine, but you can also get by with an abrasive stone.

A soldering iron with a power of 60...80 W with accessories, a set of small plumbing tools, a jewelry jigsaw with accessories, a drilling machine, but a screwdriver or a small drill will also do.

Materials.

Blanks made of neodymium glass, small standard parts of glasses (from a plastic frame), sheet brass of different thicknesses, copper tape (foil) with an adhesive layer, thin copper wire. Lead-free soft solder (tin-copper or tin-silver alloy). A piece of textile elastic tape (fastening at the back of the head), paint coating (solvent), rags.

So, in order

Working with glass.

A silhouette of a frame with glasses of a suitable shape was found on the World Wide Web, scaled to the required size, printed in its original form, and tried on.

Using a paper template, a “lens” template is copied and cut from thin (0.5 mm) transparent PET film. The film can be replaced with any suitable sheet material that is, if possible, waterproof and can be cut with scissors - thick foil, plastic, wax paper. For one-time use, you can also use thick, thin cardboard.

I attached the template to the glass blanks, so that the waste was in as large pieces as possible (may be useful) and outlined it with a thin marker (preferably waterproof). Unlike spectacle lenses, where the important point is to take into account the optical center, our glasses are smooth and you can act on the basis of savings.

We cut out our lenses with a glass cutter. For more or less accurate cuts that do not fit a ruler (curves), the most convenient type is a roller glass cutter with a narrow head. Such cuts lead forward, away from you, so that you can see the markings all the time. You can (less conveniently) make such cuts with a regular roller glass cutter from the nearest hardware store. If the glass cutter does not provide a continuous supply of oil, it (liquid machine oil or oil-kerosene mixture) should be provided externally. For example, carefully, so as not to erase the markings, lubricate the future cut with a finger dipped in oil, and drop it onto the roller. If you do not have regular glass cutting skills, before making a major cut, it is better to practice on scraps of window glass (it is thicker and harder). I don’t recommend using glass cutters with diamonds - you need specific skills, and when working with them you must comply with some additional conditions.

The glass cutter is carried along the line once, from edge to edge of the glass. The pressure should be strong and uniform, the position of the glass cutter can be like that of a fountain pen, while using the finger of your second hand you can add pressure on the roller assembly. When cutting, a smooth, characteristic sound similar to a hiss should be heard.

When cutting, glass blanks should lie on a flat, non-bending, slightly elastic base. For irregular work, you can put 3...5 layers of paper or a piece of fiberboard on a hard surface. Small details are not so critical to the surface.

After making a scratch with a glass cutter, you should create a crack in the glass by tapping on the back of the cut. Often at the end of the glass cutter's handle there is a massive metal ball for this purpose.

The edges of the cut are very uneven with sharp edges. They will be hidden and not dangerous, however, for smooth, beautiful soldering, the edges of the glass should also be aligned. We have it at our disposal. It is designed specifically for such work.

During processing we encountered an unpleasant problem - neodymium glass turned out to be softer than ordinary stained glass, not to mention sheet window glass. This discovery cost us several scratches on the “lenses” after spinning them on the steel working surface of the machine, however, factory machines of this kind have a plastic working table.

You can even out the edges of the glass, although not so beautifully, manually, using an abrasive stone that is often wetted with water (or better yet, under running water). You can try sandpaper on a rag base with medium-fine grain. It is better to pin a piece of it to a wooden block with a furniture stapler.

After processing the edges, the glass should be thoroughly dried.

The next step is to cover the edges of the glass with copper foil. Comrade Tiffany once cut foil with scissors and secured it with wax, but now there is foil of various widths with a sticky layer. In our age of switching power supplies, cellular communications and other wi-fi, foil with an adhesive layer, designed to increase the EMC (electromagnetic compatibility) of electronic devices and shielding sensitive circuits, has become widespread. There is also a special sticky copper foil for stained glass. It is distinguished by a slightly stickier glue, a version with a sticky layer of black color (for gluing the ends of transparent glass in stained glass with a black patina on the seams) and a size of about tenths of a millimeter. Well, and a significantly higher cost.

Here we use inexpensive Chinese-made “electric” foil with a width of 6 mm.
The edge of the tape is freed from the protective layer and glued to the processed end of the glass along the entire contour, so that the edges of the foil protrude beyond the edge, if possible equally on both sides. The edge of the foil is glued to its beginning with an overlap of about a centimeter.

The protruding edges of the foil are pressed against the plane of the glass with your fingers, then the folds are ironed with something harder, but not scratching the glass. Often they use something plastic that more or less fits the hand - the body of a pen, a felt-tip pen, a disposable lighter.

Working with metal

In essence, by soldering the foil on the end of the glass with a thin layer of solder, we get a glass part enclosed in a metal C-shaped profile. For stained glass applications this is quite enough, but here, significant mechanical loads will be applied to individual sections of such a profile. To strengthen it “for bending” (and twisting), the glass is trimmed along the edge with a strip of brass tape about 0.4 mm thick.

The ribbon was cut out using metalworking shears, tried on, its length was determined, and the excess was trimmed off. The workpiece is cleaned with fine sandpaper and tightly wound onto the glass workpiece. Fixed externally with thin copper wire.

I soldered with a 40 W soldering iron, tin-copper solder, with liquid (apply with a brush) stained glass flux. Soldering must be done without strong local overheating - the glass may burst. It would be reasonable to warm it up slightly (with a hair dryer) before soldering.

The connection of the prepared glasses into a single “optical system” is made by a standard spectacle part. Fortunately, it turned out to be nickel-plated brass and, after stripping the decorative coating, it was soldered well. Soft nose pads are disconnected during work. The strength of the structure turned out to be not high; it had to be supplemented with wire stops and braces. The copper wire is from an old transformer, the varnish insulation is sanded, the wire is tinned with the same lead-free solder.

The temples of the glasses were cut with my favorite tool - a jewelry jigsaw - from a 2 mm thick brass sheet. To make the parts lighter, a number of holes are drilled into them. At the same time, loops pulled out of a plastic factory frame are soldered into the holes in the part adjacent to the glasses, and an elastic band will be attached to the back of the bespectacled person’s head in the holes at the ends of the arms.

Useful tips

Although glasses are certainly a very useful invention, wearing them can bring some inconvenience to their wearers.

People who wear glasses often face small nuances and difficulties that are not clear to those who have excellent vision .

Just look at the drizzling rain that covers the surface of just worn lenses or a greasy stain on your glasses in a dark cinema.

Luckily there are several useful tips and tricks, which will reduce these small troubles to a minimum.

Wearing glasses

1. If you can't find the glasses, use your phone camera to find it easier some objects.

2. Use a simple trick to see better. For this you need to roll your fingers into a tube, leaving a small hole and look through the hole. This method works no matter how bad your eyesight is.

3. Rags microfiber Best suited for cleaning glasses. Keep several of these cloths in different places so you can always wipe your glasses.

4. To clean the lenses, use diluted dishwashing detergent. Do not use products with alcohol, vinegar, ammonia or bleach as this will damage the coating on your glasses.

5. Scratches on glasses lenses? Squeeze a small amount of non-abrasive toothpaste onto the lens and use a microfiber cloth to rub the paste in small circular motions onto the scratch.

6. Glue a reflective strip to the glasses case so you can easily find it in the dark.

7. Put a rubber band on your shampoo bottle. When you shower without glasses, the rubber band will help you distinguish the shampoo from other similar bottles by touch.

8. To adjust nose pads, Place the glasses on a flat surface to see them in relation to each other.

9. If the screws on your glasses get lost or come loose, use toothpick as a temporary solution. Align the frame and temple of the glasses, insert a toothpick, and break off the unnecessary part.

10. If your glasses keep sliding off your face, hold the rounded parts of the arms under hot water for several minutes until the plastic softens a little. Bend the ends slightly downwards so they fit closer to your ears.

11. If your glasses are a little tight, then hold the temples under hot water and try to bend them upward a little to relieve the pressure.

12. If your glasses constantly slip down due to sweat, or you have a narrow bridge of your nose, you can use one more trick. Take two hair ties and wrap them around the arms of your glasses in the place behind the ears. The frame will fit tighter, and the elastic bands will not be visible behind the ears and hair.

13. If you have wide-set eyes, choose frames with a thick or prominent nose bridge. This draws attention to the center of the face and makes the eyes appear closer.

14. If you have close-set eyes, choose frames with decorative details on the outer edges. This gives a feeling of greater distance.

15. If you have many pairs of glasses, you can store them on a hanger.

16. You can temporarily fix a broken shackle using a small piece of chewing gum or an earring bolt.

Makeup for glasses

17. Frames tend to cast a shadow under the eyes, so it’s worth using yellow concealer to neutralize shadows.

Glasses are not only a decoration, but also a necessity for many people with vision problems. Their most fragile parts are the arms, which often break. We present to your attention a method through which you can now easily make glasses at home.

Necessary materials
Dark veneer for frame (2 pieces 50x30)
Light veneer for interlayer (3 pieces 50x30)
Wooden block (approximately 50x30 cm)
Epoxy resin
Vise
Sandpaper
Spring clips (2 pieces)
Jigsaw
Varnish

If you look closely at the frame of the glasses, you will see that it is slightly curved. To make the frame look like this, you need to draw a slightly curved straight line on a wooden block and carefully divide it into two parts along the line using a saw. You will get two bars: one concave on one side, and the other convex. All these parts are well sanded and sealed with tape.

Make a frame from veneer. To do this, 3 light pieces of veneer are laid together one on top of the other, and dark ones on top and bottom.

All parts are well glued with epoxy resin.

Thus, the future frame will be layered.

To prevent the layered veneer from coming apart, you should place it in a bag and wrap it tightly with tape. Then lay the veneer in parts of the timber and clamp it in a vice. Allow to dry completely.

Excess glue should be removed and sanded on all sides with sandpaper.

Place the old glasses frame against the veneer and secure with spring clips. It is necessary to trace all the contours of the glasses with a pencil.

Using a jigsaw, cut out a new frame along the pencil lines.

The holes into which the glasses will be inserted should be sanded.

The temples of the glasses can be made from any small wooden block, 1-1.5 cm thick. To do this, you need to trace the old temples with a pencil and cut along the contours with an electric jigsaw.

By personal fitting, determine the angle of inclination of the arms in relation to the frame of the glasses. Then mark with a pencil, draw a line and cut with a jigsaw.

It is necessary to make locks that will connect the temples and frame of the glasses. To do this, draw the convex parts of the lock on the arms and the holes for them on the frame. Using a hacksaw, carefully cut.

Then connect the arms to the frame.

Coat all wooden parts with varnish.