White coating on the body of the fish. Aquarium fish are covered with a white coating. White coating on fins

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The most important criterion for keeping aquarium fish is feeding. There are hundreds of different types of fish, and almost every species has its own unique food. Yes, by and large the feeds have the same composition. However, the dosages and the presence of additional substances are always different. This means that even if the food has a similar composition, there is no reason to feed it to fish for which it is not intended. After all, the condition and external characteristics of the fish depend on the quality of the food and in what quantity it will be. To select the right food for fish, you should first study its natural habitat. The diet of fish can be influenced by climate and environment. Fish mainly feed on insects or their larvae, various fruits or berries that fall into the water, or plants. You can most often determine what exactly a fish eats by the shape of its muzzle and mouth. However, there are exceptions, for example, some adapted species of synodontus catfish, which can eat food both from the bottom and from the surface of the water, although they have a mouth lowered to the bottom. Due to the fact that it is not always possible to provide aquarium fish with natural food, you should resort to artificial dry food. For example, for most catfish there is a special dry food that almost immediately falls to the bottom, where they can eat it. Food for bottom aquarium fish comes in different types. All of them basically have the same composition, and such foods differ only in external characteristics and manufacturer. There is food in tablets and small granules. Usually they contain or may contain: 1. A mixture of protein and plant ingredients. 2. Vitamins or a whole vitamin complex. 3. Special minerals and macroelements. However, it is worth remembering that regular food is not suitable for the same catfish. Not only because its composition is not suitable, but also because it is lighter and designed to be eaten on the surface of the water. For catfish, you should use special food for bottom aquarium fish, because it is much heavier, falls to the bottom faster and, therefore, other fish do not have time to eat it. Thus, only catfish eat it.

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When keeping aquarium fish, many aquarists think about breeding them. And, naturally, in most cases this process does not occur on its own, at least in captivity. This issue should be treated with all seriousness and possible preparation. After all, the more comfortable the conditions you provide for your pets, the greater the likelihood of a successful birth of offspring. The conditions for breeding aquarium fish primarily depend on the type of fish. After all, each of them requires special conditions of detention. Types of aquarium fish in terms of breeding 1. Viviparous aquarium fish. For the most part, they are unpretentious to living conditions. This is explained by their high adaptability to the environment. The process of egg maturation itself occurs exclusively in the female’s body. Thus, already formed fry are born, which are able to feed and hide from threats on their own. There are several useful facts when breeding aquarium fish: The female with fertilized eggs should be placed in a separate aquarium with many small plants. The water temperature should be in the range of 20 – 24 degrees. After fertilization, the eggs take approximately 30-50 days to develop in the female’s body. The exact number of days depends on the specific species. A small dark spot may appear near the anal fin. It indicates the development of fry inside the fish. A couple of days before the fry are born, the female’s abdomen can take on a rectangular shape. The number of fry born directly depends on the type of fish. The fry should be fed with cyclops, daphnia or mashed, boiled egg yolk. 2. Egg-laying aquarium fish. Different species of fish take different care of their eggs. Some hatch eggs in their mouths. Some people set up a special “nest” of pebbles, plants or air bubbles. They can simply sweep it in a secluded place, for example, on the stem of a plant, and leave it. Also, some fish can attach eggs to their own skin. For spawning, it is advisable to place the parents in a separate aquarium with warmer water. In most cases, after spawning, the parents are separated from the eggs, since there is a possibility that they will eat them. In the first days of life, the fry are fed live dust, ciliates and rotifers. Stimulation for spawning In the case of breeding aquarium fish, there are several factors that predispose to spawning: Feeding aquarium fish with live food. About two weeks before spawning. Maintaining clean water and high levels of oxygen in it. A slight increase in the water temperature in the aquarium, about 2-3 degrees.

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One of the most important parameters for arranging an aquarium is the temperature of the water in which your pets will live. The optimal temperature for aquarium fish is approximately average room temperature, that is, 22-26 ° C, this temperature is suitable for most fish. But, it is clear that this majority does not include all types of fish that can live in your aquarium. Among the minority, it is worth highlighting such a popular group of fish as goldfish. Since they need slightly cooler water, on average 20°C, of ​​course, they can live in warmer water, about 25°C, but such living is fraught with dysfunction of the swim bladder. Several parameters and nuances of normal temperature and its creation: 1. The optimal temperature for aquarium fish should never fluctuate by more than 3°C, of ​​course, if the fish are adapted to large temperature changes, then it is permissible to lower or increase it, but this should be done smoothly, over 2, 3 months, in no case in a day or even a few hours. The consequences of a sudden change in temperature can be very different, ranging from the simplest bacterial infection to a disease such as chylodonellosis or the same dysfunction of the swim bladder. 2. The optimal temperature for aquarium fish also greatly depends on the thermometer. A thermometer plays an important role in arranging a home for fish, especially in small aquariums. After all, the smaller the body of water, the faster the water heats up or cools down there. For example, if you have a small aquarium inhabited by neon fish, it is extremely undesirable to open the window for a long time in the cold season, since even a short draft can lower the water temperature by several degrees, which will have a very detrimental effect on the fish themselves, but the owner most likely will not notice This difference is due to the lack of a thermometer. Only thanks to this device is it possible to monitor the water temperature in the aquarium and, accordingly, thanks to a special heating pad, maintain it at an acceptable level. Ideally, you should purchase an automatic heating pad with a thermometer, which indicates the permissible interval, and the thermostat itself heats the water at the right time. 3. The optimal temperature for aquarium fish is also the air temperature above the water. The same draft for fish can be harmful not only for the reason that it cools the water, but also because it is undesirable for many types of fish to inhale air from the surface of the aquarium, which is warmer or colder than the water even by 5°C. 4. In addition to lowering the water temperature, aquarium owners should also be wary of increasing it. Especially if the fish have just finished their meal, since a well-fed fish needs more oxygen; the warmer the water, the less air there is in it. 5. To lower the temperature in the aquarium, you can make special slots in the lid for better ventilation or act like some craftsmen who have adapted computer coolers, but this must be done with extreme caution and only if you are sure that such a device is securely fastened and works properly .

A white coating on the body of a fish most often signals a malfunction of the body. If white plaque is a symptom of a disease, then the fish must be treated immediately. Under no circumstances should you confuse a white coating on the body with clouding of the fish’s body. Cloudiness can be a signal that the fish is in poor quality water, it is not necessarily a sign of infection.

With alkalosis, the skin becomes dull, the fish rush around the tank, and mucus forms on the fish. Appears in pets who are accustomed to bodies of water with an acidic environment. The disease is eliminated by bringing the pH level to the required level. You can buy a pH buffer at the pet store, which will give the readings.

Also, body color may fade due to inflammation of the gastrointestinal tract. A large amount of mucus appears in the stool, with bloody discharge, and the fish loses its appetite. The fish are not fed for one week; later they are switched to varied feeding.

Diseases: saprolegniosis and gyrodactylosis

Trichodinosis and costiosis

How to treat aquarium fish with salt

For what diseases is saline solution used?

Rules for using saline solution to treat fish

See how to treat aquarium fish with salt.

How to do salt baths

Treatment and diseases of aquarium fish

My two-year experience in administering the aquarium forum allows me at this stage to draw certain conclusions about the process of treating aquarium fish.
In this article, I would like to discuss all the aspects and nuances of treating a sick pet. The purpose of the article is to give the basics to beginners, and many already experienced aquarists - WHAT TO DO IF THE FISH GETS SICK.

This article will not be a revelation or a panacea, I will, in principle, talk about simple and understandable things, but still, in my opinion, they are the key to the health of both the fish and the aquarium as a whole.
First, let's figure out why and why fish get sick. Fish are living creatures just like you and me. Any living creature will feel good and not get sick when it is in comfortable conditions. People go to fitness clubs, go to sanatoriums, try to live in comfort, eat proper and healthy food, breathe fresh, clean air, and this is the key to their health and longevity.
The same applies to fish, they will always be healthy and you will not have to treat them if they live in comfort, i.e. in a healthy, complete, proper aquarium. With 120% confidence, I can say that in a healthy aquarium, with a adjusted biobalance, not a single aquarium fish will get sick!!!
So, we have established the root cause of all troubles - a “bad aquarium”. What does this mean? There are quite a few factors that characterize the concept of a “bad aquarium”:
- this is both overpopulation and incorrect selection of fish;
- these are inappropriate parameters of aquarium water for a particular type of fish (t, pH, dH, kH, etc.);
- this also includes inadequate water quality, i.e. presence of poisons in it: ammonia, nitrites and nitrates;
- this can be expressed in improper decoration of the aquarium;
- in inadequate or poor-quality lighting;
- in the end, in improper care of the aquarium: feeding, water changes, etc.;
If we summarize all these negative factors, we can simply say: there is no BIOBALANCE – BIOLOGICAL EQUILIBRIUM.
Now, based on what has been said, let’s see what happens to the fish’s body in such negative conditions. And the same thing happens as with you - protective mechanisms turn on. Depending on the damaging factor in fish, this can manifest itself in different ways, for example:
- when there is overpopulation or the wrong selection of fish, they begin to fight, stress or a depressed state appears;
- at elevated temperatures or lack of oxygen, fish begin to swim near the surface, puff up their gills, and greedily swallow air. Again, stress, lethargy, “fainting.”
- in the presence of poisons in the water, the fish also trigger defensive mechanisms of addiction.
How do these protective mechanisms work? The answer is also simple - due to immunity. Which, as you understand, is not rubber. And when it ends, the fish’s body ceases to resist all pathogenic organisms and/or negative factors. The illness phase begins.

What is wrong with the fish and how to treat it?

Very useful video about treating aquarium fish

What to do if fish die in the aquarium

Common causes of death of aquarium fish

What to do if you find dead fish in the walls of the aquarium?

What do guppy fish suffer from and how to treat them?

Columnaria and ichthyophthyriosis

Columnaria. The cause is the bacterium Flexibacter columnaris. Symptoms: Grayish-white coating or spots on the fish's body or around its mouth. Sometimes these spots are microscopic, thread-like, especially in the immediate vicinity of the mouth. This disease is often confused with oral fungus. The condition of the guppy's fins may deteriorate, the gills will also suffer, and ulcers may appear on the body over time. At a late stage of the disease, the fish keeps its fins close to the body without spreading them. Columnaria is a consequence of poor water quality, where bacteria can easily multiply. Sometimes the cause of the disease can be stress, or an infection introduced into the water with new fish.

Treatment: antibacterial drugs if columnaria is detected in the early stages. In later stages it is necessary to treat with antibiotics. Water changes need to be done. Levomycetin and kanamycin are effective against this infection. Levomycetin is taken 500 mg per 20 liters of water and diluted in water. After 3-4 applications with 25% water changes, there will be a positive result. Kanamycin – 1 gram per 25 liters of water. It is also possible to treat fish with branded preparations for aquarium fish - Sera Baktopur Direct, JBL Ektol Bac Plus 250, dosage - according to the instructions for use.

See what a guppy infected with Columnaria looks like.

Method of treatment: adding table salt (5 teaspoons per 4 liters of water), the salt must be diluted in water and introduced into the aquarium gradually. You can use special salt baths where you can dip the fish for 7-10 minutes. It is also possible to cure the disease with the drugs Tripaflavin and Biomycin in the proportions of 50,000 units of biomycin and 5 mg of Tripaflavin. They need to be diluted well in water, then added to the quarantine tank with the fish. The treatment procedure should be repeated until the white cysts disappear from the body of all fish. The duration of treatment usually takes 12-15 days.

Watch a video telling how to cure ichthyophthyriosis.

Fin rot and tetrachymenosis

Fin rot. Male guppy fish are more likely to suffer from this disease; their fins are longer and more sensitive than those of females. Symptoms of the disease: the rays of the fins become opaque, streaks with blood form in them. Erosion of the fins may continue until it reaches the base of the fins. A fish can die from a disease caused by the Pseudomonas bacterium.

Treatment: introduction of the drug Levomycetin into the water in the proportions of 1 tablet per 20 liters of water. The tablet must be diluted in water and the solution added to the general aquarium. Every three days you should do 30% water changes. The medicine Bicillin-5, which is sold in bottles, copes with this harmful disease. The medicine will last for 6 days. The contents of the bottle are divided into 6 equal portions, which are dissolved every day in 10 liters of water in a specially prepared bath. The duration of the bath is 3 minutes. Also, fin rot can be cured with Tetra General Tonic and Sera Baktopur. Doses of the medicine - according to the instructions for use.

Treatment of the disease: FMS drug (dose 1 ml per 100 liters of water), furazolidone (1 gram per 100 liters of water), Biseptol (dose 2 tablets per 100 liters of water). The drugs are dissolved in water and introduced into the aquarium one by one. Duration of treatment is 7-10 days. It is better to treat the fish in a prepared aquarium so that furazolidone does not destroy the plants. In the quarantine tank, 40-50% of the water should be replaced every day, adding a new portion of medicines.

A white coating on the body of a fish most often signals a malfunction of the body. If white plaque is a symptom of a disease, then the fish must be treated immediately. Under no circumstances should you confuse a white coating on the body with clouding of the fish’s body. Cloudiness can be a signal that the fish is in poor quality water, it is not necessarily a sign of infection.

With alkalosis, the skin becomes dull, the fish rush around the tank, and mucus forms on the fish. Appears in pets who are accustomed to bodies of water with an acidic environment. The disease is eliminated by bringing the pH level to the required level. You can buy a pH buffer at the pet store, which will give the readings.

Also, body color may fade due to inflammation of the gastrointestinal tract. A large amount of mucus appears in the stool, with bloody discharge, and the fish loses its appetite. The fish are not fed for one week; later they are switched to varied feeding.

Diseases: saprolegniosis and gyrodactylosis

Dermatomycosis, or saprolegniosis, is a fish disease that appears as a result of prolonged exposure to cold water. Other associated factors, such as improper feeding, injury, stress, high acidity levels, increased concentration of organic matter in water can cause fungi of the genus Saprolegnia and Achlia. Other infectious diseases often appear as concomitants with saprolegniosis. The disease spreads quickly throughout the aquarium, passing from sick fish to healthy ones.

The initial stage of the disease - a coating in the form of moss forms on the fish, as well as white threads, the so-called “fungal hyphae”. Hyphae may appear when an injury, cut, or ulcer is localized. When they grow, they intertwine with each other and form a lump resembling white cotton wool. Lumps are distributed throughout the body, also on the fins. Later, the internal organs of the fish become sick.

See how to treat dermatomycosis and other diseases of aquarium fish.

The fish should be treated in a fish tank. To destroy the fungus, the drug bicillin-5 is used. A dose of the drug is added to the aquarium: 500,000 units per 100 liters of water. Before adding to water, the medicine should be diluted in water. The duration of treatment with bicillin-5 is 6 days. During treatment, the temperature is increased to 25-26 o C. Please note that not all aquarium fish can tolerate the given temperature. It is necessary to remove plants and decorations from the general aquarium and treat them with the same preparation. The drug only works in the dark.

Trichodinosis and costiosis

Trichodinosis is an invasive disease caused by ciliates. At an early stage, there are no obvious changes in the pet’s appearance. Only she itches on stones and decorations, and is often located near aeration bubbles. As the disease develops, the body becomes covered with a white coating; over time, it will begin to fall off in flakes. The gills are covered with mucus, the fish has no appetite, and breathing is rapid. Infection can be introduced into an aquarium through dirty water, decorations, plants, food, soil, and sick fish. If there are no fish in the general aquarium, the ciliates without a host will die in a few days.

See what a mollies infected with trichodinosis looks like.

Treatment takes place in a quarantine tank, where the water temperature is raised to 30 degrees Celsius. You need to turn on strong aeration. You need to add table salt to the water in proportions of 20 grams per 10 liters of water. In the initial stages, the disease can be treated.

the fish are covered with a white coating

Have you discovered that your aquarium pet is covered in a slimy white coating? And do you know if this is a symptom of some disease or something else? In fact, this can be both a sign of a disease and a signal of a bad situation in the aquarium - environmental or psychological.

Let's look at several reasons that provoked the current problem. Alas, often a white coating on the scales of a fish is a disappointing sign of one of several diseases.

This may be dermatomycosis (saprolegniosis), the causative agent of which is white fungi. A distinct fluffy coating appears on the scales - these same saprophagous fungi.

White coating on fish is a signal to start serious treatment, otherwise the disease can be fatal! A medicinal solution of sulfonamide, bicillin-5, and potassium permanganate is used. Potassium permanganate can be used as a lotion. As a rule, such treatment ends successfully (with the exception of advanced stages of the disease).

If a white mucous coating appears on the fins, then this is the first sign of fin rot - infection. You need to lower the temperature to 22 degrees, start giving Baktopur and Ektol Fluid. It is better to remove the carbon filler, if any.

Sometimes white deposits are the result of many other reasons - for example, poor filter performance. If the aquarium filter has not been used for more than 8 hours, then you must wash it under running water before turning it on again.

You need to understand hydrochemistry - check the level of pH, nitrites and nitrates. If there are few plants in the aquarium, then you need to plant more. Buy Antibak tablets, since biofiltration has been disrupted.

The white coating may be a battle wound from other fish species. Thus, so that the fish do not get sick or fight, you need to monitor the situation in the aquarium - biological and social.