Ambul has rightfully earned his honorary “title” - the bulldog of bulldogs. The breed is unique in that its representatives managed to preserve their original characteristics and appearance from the 15th century to the present day. Bulldogs first appeared on the lands of England, where they were bred from Molossian dogs to organize bullfights. Back then, dogs cost their owners a pretty penny, since their courage and remarkable strength determined the outcome of a fight with cattle. The offspring of champion ambulae, who repeatedly won in fierce battles, were especially valued.

The value of the breed was also explained by the ability of its representatives to endure any pain. Breeders often held demonstration “performances”, during which they brought dogs to a state of bestial rage and demonstrated their endurance. Such performances had a sad outcome: ambuli often died, but this in no way detracted from the popularity of the breed or the amount that buyers were willing to pay for the future champion.

American Bulldogs were used as blood sport animals until the early 19th century. After the signing of a law that prohibited bull baiting and dog fighting, the price of ambuls dropped sharply. Bulldogs were forced to be kept in the yard, since their cruelty and indomitable temperament often posed a danger even to the owner. They forgot about the breed for some time, since it was not distinguished by anything other than endurance: neither its cute appearance, nor its docility, nor other characteristics.

With the popularization of exhibitions, the ambul again attracted the attention of dog breeders. Wanting to make dogs more suitable for shows, geneticists added pug blood. This experiment took thirty years and ended very successfully: the new specimens were smaller in size, more correct in proportions and calm in disposition. Soon bulldogs were divided into separate breeds. Kennel clubs were organized for them, which registered puppies and documented their pedigree. This is how the English bulldog arose, which earned the glory of the country’s national symbol.

It is worth noting that the history of the breed was not limited to this. At the beginning of the 18th century, a tense economic situation reigned in England. The prison cells were overcrowded with debtors who did not have enough money to pay the required amount. The government made a cunning move by promising amnesty to those prisoners who would go to settle the new colony in Georgia. Few prisoners reached American shores, but this was amply compensated by the movement of working-class people who hoped to start a new life and escape their hardships. Together with them, people brought their most valuable “property” - real bulldogs, which at that time were still involved in bull baiting and retained their unbridled temper.

At first, the colonists had a hard time: the wild lands needed clearing and constant protection from warlike Indian tribes, the Spaniards and the French. Ambul unexpectedly showed himself to be a reliable and devoted watchman who could be relied upon. Thus, thanks to their athletic build, endurance, hard work, courage, intelligence and excellent sense of smell, bulldogs turned out to be indispensable companions in the wild lands of America.

Then farmers did not attach importance to the appearance of the ambul - a large dog with a massive muzzle and strong paws. The breed was valued not for its appearance, but for its working qualities. Attempts to include Southern bulldogs in the American Kennel Club (AKC) list remained unsuccessful for a long time. Preference was given to foreign breeds, and “natives” from the colonies were considered ordinary and unworthy of attention.

In addition, the bulldog breed was already registered with the AKC, and southerners would have to think of a new name to avoid confusion when popularizing the bulldog in the United States. Georgian large, exhibition, working, southern white, old - all these names referred specifically to the ambul. Until the middle of the 20th century, he was not registered by any canine organization and could not boast of an official pedigree.

Only by the 60s the name “American Pit Bulldog” was assigned to the breed. At the same time, the first standard was presented to everyone's attention. Soon, ambulies were registered by most cynological organizations. Dog breeders were captivated by her impressive appearance combined with her impeccable service skills. Increasingly, bulldogs were bred for military departments and police stations. In comparison with other dogs, ambuli were distinguished by endurance, prudence and incredible sense of smell, inherited from distant ancestors. Representatives of this breed were also used during the search for survivors of major disasters.

Soon the American bulldog won the love of not only America, but also all of Europe. Even Russia during the “roaring nineties” responded to this canine trend: increasingly frightening-looking dogs appeared on city streets, ready to rush to the defense of their owner at any moment. The breed is still popular today. At the same time, its name - American Bulldog - does not scare away potential dog owners with unpleasant associations with bull baiting and dog fighting. On the contrary, the massive and terrifying dimensions of the animal give a person indestructible self-confidence.

Video: American Bulldog

Appearance of an American Bulldog

The Ambul is a large dog. Variability is a key feature of this breed. Its representatives differ from each other in many characteristics. Despite the existence of two lines - classic (Johnson) and standard (Scott), the appearance of modern dogs combines features of both. If we consider each type separately, it can be noted that Johnson's ambullies are more squat and larger than they resemble their counterparts - English bulldogs. Standard type dogs are more similar to the American Pit Bull Terrier.

According to the FCI standard, the height of the ambul at the withers should be 55-70 cm (for males) and 52-65 cm (for females). As for body weight, it reaches 32-54 kg and 27-45 kg, respectively.

Head and skull

The American Bulldog's head is large in size and proportional to the dog's body. The slightly rounded and wide skull forms a high forehead and a moderately pronounced occipital protuberance.

Muzzle

Its appearance depends on what type your ambulatory is. The Johnson line is characterized by a square and smoothly contoured muzzle with a well-defined stop. Representatives of the Scott line have a more wedge-shaped muzzle, while the transition from the forehead to the nose is less pronounced. At the same time, classic ambuli have a shorter muzzle (up to 30% of the length of the skull) in contrast to standard specimens (up to 40%). Deep folds are characteristic of Johnson's Bulldogs. The large nose with wide nostrils is colored black or brown (the first is more preferable). Dark lips fit tightly to the jaws.

Ears

The American Bulldog's ears are medium in size and set high on the forehead. Can be hanging or standing. The shape is predominantly triangular, but “envelope” or “rose” options are allowed. It is not recommended to crop ears at any age.

Eyes

Small round eyes are set straight and wide. Their color varies from nut to dark brown, with dark shades still being a priority. The eyelids fit tightly and are distinguished by dark pigmentation up to the full “rim” of the eyes. Unpainted areas are allowed in individuals under two years of age.

Jaws and teeth

The American Bulldog's jaws are quite wide. In this case, the lower one moves forward slightly beyond the line of the upper one, forming a so-called dense snack or snack with waste. Please note that in both cases the teeth should not be visible if the mouth is closed. The canines are set wide apart in the jaw, while the incisors form a straight line. Large and healthy teeth are preferred. The first two premolars may be missing.

Neck

The muscular and powerful neck is set at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the body. It has a well-defined scruff.

Frame

The American Bulldog has a slightly elongated body. Half the height of the dog at the withers is equal to the depth of the chest. The girth of the skull and neck is the same, while the length of the latter should exceed the length of the head.

Tail

It has a wide base and gradually tapers towards the tip. The maximum compliance with the standard is considered to be a tail that reaches the hock joints.

Forelegs

Set wide and parallel to each other. The shoulders and forearms are notable for their well-developed muscles. Elbows point back. The forelimbs turn into strong, rounded paws. Short fingers tightly clenched.

Hind limbs

The distance between the hind legs is much wider. The hips and shins of the ambul are characterized by prominent muscles. The angle of the limbs is moderate. The paws have a slightly elongated shape, making them look longer and narrower than the front ones.

Movement style

The movements of the American Bulldog are powerful and clearly coordinated, reminiscent of a free trot.

Coat

The length of the hairs of the coat should not exceed 1.5 cm. They fit snugly to the dog’s body and have a healthy shine.

Color

Most often, the coat of ambulets has brindle, white-brindle, white-red and white colors. Black, black and tan, merle, blue are allowed, but only if these colors include spots of white. In this case, the marks must cover at least 10% of the body. Please note that at dog shows it is the white color that is most valued.

The defects of the American Bulldog breed include the following:

• tail with a crease, lying on the back, in a corkscrew;
• yellow, green or gray color of the iris;
• bulging eyes with drooping eyelids;
• gray pigmentation of the nose;
• poorly developed muscles;
• direct jaw bite;
• sharp narrowing of the muzzle;
• depigmentation of the eyelids;
• heterochromia.

Please note that a defect is any deviation from the standard. There are also disqualifying defects. Among them:

• excessive cowardice or aggressiveness;
• failure of a male dog's testicles to descend into the scrotum;
• blue eye tint, asymmetry;
• long coat;
• scissor bite;
• uneven line of incisors;
• jaw asymmetry;
• deafness and blindness.

Photo of an adult American Bulldog

American Bulldog Personality

Ambul is an ideal option for those who are looking for a brave, intelligent and selfless companion. The bulldog will walk with its owner through fire, water and copper pipes. The main thing is to let the dog understand that in your duet the role of leader is not assigned to him. The breed is not suitable for weak-willed people who cannot devote enough time to raising a pet. Don’t forget that the American Bulldog tends to dominate and defend its rights, which is why it needs correct socialization. Otherwise, the dog will perceive any living creature as a potential threat and show aggression.

The menacing and impressive appearance of the ambul hides friendliness and sociability. Representatives of this breed show incredible loyalty and devotion to the family in which they live. In critical situations, the bulldog will protect its owner to the last drop of blood. Be prepared for sudden displays of love when 40 kilograms of puppy affection settles on your lap - and this is not so easy to withstand, by the way! American Bulldogs get along well with children and happily take part in games. However, be careful: the dog does not always understand that it is superior to children in strength and size, so it may accidentally fall on the child.

The breed is famous for its guarding qualities. Ambuli have excellent hearing and sense of smell, so not a single thief will be able to sneak into protected possessions. Often the dog puts on a show of his strength. If this does not stop the villain, the bulldog fearlessly rushes into battle, protecting not only the property entrusted to him, but also the people he loves.

In times of danger, representatives of this breed remain calm and skillfully build battle tactics. They cannot be distracted by false maneuvers and feigned threats. American Bulldogs are wary of strangers, even when close to their owner. It may take them quite a while to get used to the new person.

Ambuli have high intelligence, which becomes a problem in certain situations. Even a puppy can be smart enough to open a door or jump onto a windowsill where there are potted houseplants. And if the American Bulldog is bored, then beware: the dog will go as far as completely destroying the apartment in an attempt to throw out the accumulated energy.

Don't forget that your pet needs daily exercise. Go for an hour-long run in the park, and don't forget to grab your dog's favorite toy. Ambul will appreciate this and, upon returning home, will happily fall asleep at the feet of his owner, where he will spend the rest of the day. It is worth noting that American bulldogs are excellent walking companions. With proper training, their poise and calmness will eliminate the need for you to keep the leash taut.

If you are planning to take a bulldog as a companion for your second pet, give up your idea. Representatives of this breed do not get along well with animals, and especially with their relatives. American Bulldogs do not tolerate competition, and having a dog of the same gender will only make the situation worse. In the absence of proper upbringing, the ambul is capable of injuring or killing another pet, regardless of size. Don't forget that this breed was originally bred for bloody bullfights. Pronounced hunting instincts can provoke a dog into a chase, which in most cases has a sad outcome.

Education and training

Developed intelligence and independent character are good reasons to start raising an ambulant as early as possible. First of all, the puppy must realize the main truth: the owner’s word is a law that cannot be broken under any circumstances. Stop the slightest attempt by the bulldog to growl and grin at your family members, but under no circumstances raise your hand to the dog! American Bulldogs do not take kindly to cruelty and may become angry with you in the future. Firmness, perseverance and patience are the three pillars on which the proper upbringing of a pet rests.

Don’t forget that self-discipline is the weak point of ambullies, so it can take more than one month to develop habits. First of all, start creating a daily routine. To do this, take your ambulant for a walk twice – in the morning and in the evening. Soon your pet will understand that it is necessary to relieve itself exclusively on the street. This way you will avoid unpleasant “incidents”.

During a walk, do not allow the ambulant to pull on the leash, rushing forward. In the case of a puppy, this can look funny: the stocky baby sniffles from tension, wanting to speed up his pace despite the efforts of the owner. However, rest assured: when an obese dog weighing almost half a centner appears in his place, this will create certain inconveniences. The dog should walk next to you - and nothing else.

Don't let your pet jump on people with its front paws. It is very difficult to maintain the impressive dimensions of an American Bulldog (especially for children). In general, it is not recommended to allow the ambulum to exert force. Keep him from fighting with other dogs or cats. Don't even bark or growl in their direction.

The American Bulldog breed is completely unpretentious in care. These dogs are prohibited from undergoing water procedures more than two or three times a year. It is enough to wipe the face as it gets dirty - and your pet will always look neat and clean. Ear sticks and cotton pads are suitable for these purposes.

The only thing you will have to spend money on is a special brush for combing. During shedding, the American Bulldog leaves a lot of hair, so it is recommended to brush the dog at least once a week. If you don't have a brush at hand, a rubber glove will do just fine. Don't forget about the bulldog's claws. Sometimes long walks are not enough to wear them down. Use pruning shears to shorten nails every one and a half to two months.

However, your ambulant will be grateful not for pleasant spa treatments, but for daily active walks in the fresh air. Every feature of this powerful and noble dog has a craving for physical activity, so you should not deprive your pet of this joy. Every kilometer traveled will give your bulldog good health, and you will be in a great mood.

As for ambulant nutrition, it is recommended to use special dry food with a vitamin-mineral complex. Periodically dilute your dog's diet with dairy products and fresh meat. You should not treat your pet with “human” food, no matter how pitiful his eyes may look at you: this can negatively affect the bulldog’s well-being.

Observe the following rules:

• Don't make meat the mainstay of your diet. Remember that it must be balanced and include at least 30% protein.
• You should not often give your American Bulldog foods high in calcium and vitamins A and D. This negatively affects the dog’s skeletal system.
• Stick to frequency. So, puppies up to 4 months are fed five times, up to 6 months - four times, up to six months - three times a day. After this, it is enough to fill the bowl twice - in the morning and in the evening.

• raw river fish (cooked is acceptable);
• legumes (peas, beans and others);
• minced meat (poorly digested);
• small tubular bones;
• fresh white bread;
• unboiled eggs;
• pork

Drinking water must be unboiled and clean.

American Bulldog Health and Diseases

Despite excellent stamina and good health, ambuli are susceptible to certain diseases. Among them:

• eye problems (strabismus, entropion, cataracts);
• dysplasia of the hip and elbow joints;
• skin diseases and allergies;
• heart failure;
• congenital deafness;
• immunodeficiency;
• heart disease;
• epilepsy.

American Bulldog bitches often have difficulties during childbirth. However, you should not think that by purchasing an ambulette, you automatically become the owner of a sick dog. This breed remains active and thirsty for life until old age. The rest depends on your attention and timely treatment of your pet.

How to choose a puppy

Choosing an American Bulldog puppy requires a lot of attention. It is from this stage that acquaintance with representatives of the noble breed begins. One of them is destined to become your best friend, so be careful when purchasing an ambulette responsibly.

Purebred American Bulldogs can only be found in trusted kennels. The breeder must provide upon request a certificate of veterinary examination of each puppy from the litter. The absence of one is a reason to think about whether you are going to take a healthy baby into your home? When examining puppies, the bitch must remain calm. If the dog is taken to another room or does not want to be shown to a potential buyer at all, this indirectly indicates its mental instability, which can be passed on to the puppies.

The ideal age of the baby is from one and a half to three months. The most sociable, cheerful and active toddler, by definition, is distinguished by good health. Shiny fur, a wet nose and perky little eyes are further evidence of this. If the bully cowardly tucks his tail or growls at an outstretched hand, refuse to purchase such a puppy: you will not be able to become friends for many years.

Photos of American Bulldog puppies

How much does an American Bulldog cost?

Compared to other dog breeds, the Ambulus is inexpensive. Puppies without a pedigree will cost 7-8 thousand rubles. Agree, the price for a charming little one is quite reasonable. If pedigree matters, but participation in exhibitions or breeding does not attract you, get ready to pay about 20 thousand rubles. Show and breeding American bulldogs cost 50 thousand and above.

a brief description of

• Other names: American Bulldog, southern bulldog, white American, old country bulldog, ambul.
• Height: an adult female at the withers is up to 64.0 cm, a male is no higher than 69.0 cm.
• Weight: body weight of a female is up to 45.0 kg, a male is up to 57.0 kg.
• Color: white, black, brown, red, fawn, markings of a different color on a solid color are acceptable.
• Wool: short, tough, shedding is constant, but low-intensity.
• Lifespan: up to 15-16 years old.
• Advantages of the breed: The character of the dogs is marked by devotion to the owner and extreme dedication. Ambul is positioned as an intelligent dog with a high level of trainability and a reliable guard.
• Difficulties of the breed: The dog's stubbornness, self-will and phlegmatic character are often noted. They have the ability to drool over tasty treats.
• Price: $350-500.

Origin of the breed

There are many blank spots in the history of American Bulldog breeding. According to one version, the beginning of the formation of the breed dates back to the period of the conquest of America, when English bulldogs from the Old World were brought to the so-called cowboy West.

Purpose dogs were the most primitive thing. Powerful and loyal dogs were charged with protecting land, herds and farms, as well as brightening up the owner’s everyday life.

Farmers did not even suspect about canine wisdom, selecting the strongest, most resilient working dogs. There were even planned matings. But since the settlements were isolated from each other, matings were carried out in each district individually, without intersecting with representatives of the breed of another village. And the breed had different names. Some called the dogs old country bulldogs, but for others they were southern bulldogs.

The result of separate breeding was two types of ambula, which exist to this day, however, accepted by International canine organizations. American Bulldog standard accepts two phenotypes dogs:

1. Classic or the Johnson, Bully and the Standard, or Johnson.
2. Standard, or Scott.

Scott-type dogs resemble American pit bull terriers in appearance, with which they are often confused. But the most popular is the mestizo obtained by crossing two ambul phenotypes. He has a shorter muzzle than Jones and a more massive body than Scott.

According to one version, the American Bulldog breed is considered the only one that has preserved the original phenotype of its ancestors - the Old English Bulldogs of the time of Queen Elizabeth. This is the only breed that conveyed the appearance of dogs that existed in the 17th-18th centuries.

Purpose of dogs

Europe once used bulldogs exclusively as a fighting dog during the period when dog baiting was legalized. Emperors, including Catherine I, were interested in mass spectacles and strongly supported the progressive business of fighting dogs. Dog-bull fights were especially popular.

After the categorical ban on dog fighting, American farmers put a lot of effort into raising a universal breed, which was to become the Ambulus. They were trained to be guards, banned fight among themselves. The goal was to raise a loyal dog that would guard and protect the property and life of the owner.

The Americans, who have an amazing instinct for dogs, saw a lot of abilities in the rural bulldog. The bet was placed on dogs that were bred through careful selection of individual individuals for hunting, guarding or search qualities. The result was the modern phenotype of the American Bulldog, which we see today:

• at the police station during detention work;
• a guard dog guarding farmland;
• successfully exhibited dogs in the rings.

Today, the American Bulldog is considered a good companion, and most importantly - excellent bodyguard using their power, athleticism and indefatigable devotion in the service of their master.

Character

The menacing, intimidating appearance of the ambul is often at odds with its friendly character. Characteristic of a dog sociability and cheerful disposition. American Bulldogs are kind to small children, and they make excellent nannies, if, of course, you raise the dog correctly.

Large and powerful ampules are characterized by dominant character. The dog believes that it must direct everything that happens in the house, since it protects it. If on the way you come across a specimen with a similar character, a fight cannot be avoided.

Regardless of how much the American Bulldog costs, it is very popular both in America and in European countries, since people pay tribute to its unusual mentality and impeccable working qualities. It is the English Bulldog, like no other breed of dog, that manages to distinguish falsehood and pretense in human relationships.

Video review of the breed

The program “All About Dogs” talks about the American Bulldog breed; the video is devoted to the character traits of dogs, their maintenance and the intricacies of education:

Choosing a puppy

American Bulldog puppies are ready to go to a new home not earlier 8-10 weeks of age. When choosing a pet, you should first pay attention to the parents. If this is not the first litter, ask to see dogs born previously from this pair or only from the mother or male.

A healthy ambul puppy is, as people say, “living mercury.” His coat is shiny, his eyes and ears are clean, he smells like mother and milk, and he actively responds to the offer of play. By the age of eight weeks, the veterinary passport must contain marks on the two necessary ones.

Two month old puppies very inquisitive, they are practically not afraid of anything and constantly pester each other with games. Small ambulas are very sociable. At this age, the puppy’s body weight should exceed the five kilogram mark. The baby has an excellent appetite. But his stomach should not be bloated, which may indicate the presence or problems with the gastrointestinal tract.

Due to the simplification of club rules regarding the American Bulldog breed, the breeder is not required to provide health certificates from the parents when selling a puppy. Nevertheless, nurseries that respect themselves and their reputation always provide information about the health of the parents and possible manifestations of hereditary diseases, although here, apart from nature, no one can give guarantees.

Nicknames and names

Ambuli are given their official nickname at birth. The pet name, based on the dog’s appearance, should be strong and booming. It should sound like a call, since a certain amount of stubbornness can be traced in the character of the breed, and the dog can simply ignore a weak call.

Care and maintenance of American Bulldog dogs

The American Bulldog breed is considered healthy, extremely hardy dogs. However, kennel keeping for ambullies is undesirable, since both cold and heat are considered intolerable weather for short-haired dogs. But if there is a special room for dogs in the yard, heated in winter, then it can be kept outside.

Short coat of ambul needs minimal care. Dogs do not shed as such; they change their coat little by little all year round. Due to an innate predisposition to skin reactions, dogs are practically not bathed. Infrequent wiping of the wool with a damp cloth is sufficient. Paws are washed if necessary.

Eyes, ears and teeth require standard inspection. regularly, once a month or a month and a half. The ambulant's dental system is strong, the claws are trimmed as they grow, if the dog does not grind them down on walks.

Health and heredity

Like all Molossians, Ambuli are prone to joint problems. Basically, it develops due to improper raising of the dog. The congenital form of dysplasia strongly and seriously affects how long American Bulldogs live, as well as the usefulness of their existence.

Of the congenital diseases, a predisposition to various types should be noted. These are mainly skin reactions to poor quality food or feed. And also a congenital defect of the eyelids - entropion or inversion, which can be solved surgically.

Catering

Due to the predisposition to food allergies, the diet of dogs is selected with special care, especially. We should not forget that representatives of the breed are considered puppies until the age of three due to the late development of dogs.

As with all breeds, the diet should be well balanced. If it is dry food, then you should choose from the super-premium category for large breeds. In addition to the vitamins, macro- and microelements the dog needs, the food contains the Omega-3, 6, 9 complex, which fights neoplasms, and the required amount of glucosamine and chondroitin for large dogs.

As for natural foods, you should consult with the breeder of the nursery from which the puppy was purchased, as well as with the home veterinarian, relying on the ambulant’s food predisposition to allergies.

Education and training

The process of raising American Bulldog dogs begins from childhood. As soon as the puppy has crossed the threshold of a new home, it needs to begin to be raised. From the first days, it is advisable for the puppy to recover outside during a walk.

But small children cannot stand it for long, so in addition to walks, you should teach the baby to use a special tray.

As soon as the baby accepts the rules of the adult game, he begins to ask to go outside.

If living conditions allow, from puppyhood ambul should be taught to swim. For a powerful dog with a heavy joint, swimming plays a huge role in the formation of a strong, harmonious dog.

Weights and harnesses it is forbidden Apply to your pet at an early age to avoid improper development and bone formation.

Ambuli love to run. But it should be taught gradually, in short bursts. Only at the age of two years is it permissible for an ambulant to accompany a bicycle on long distances, if the dog is well prepared for them.

As for training, classes with a trainer begin no earlier than four months of age, when the dog receives basic commands. The essence of training comes down to a five-fold ban. To the dog prohibited:

1. Bite.
2. Walk on a tight leash.
3. Place your front paws on the person's chest or shoulders.
4. Pick up food from the ground.
5. Fight with representatives of your own or another breed.

In addition, ambulatory needs to be weaned off chase cats, squirrels, hedgehogs. Grinning and growling must be immediately suppressed by the owner.

Advantages and disadvantages of the American Bulldog breed

American Bulldog breed belongs to the intelligent breeds, able to think and make decisions independently. On the one hand, this is wonderful, because, having learned the command, the ambulant remembers it forever.

On the other hand, making an independent decision by a dog seriously harms its abilities and disposition to train. Natural stubbornness, willfulness and phlegmatism complicate the training process.

Self-sufficient, giving off a formidable appearance of self-confident individuals, American bulldogs suffer from distrust even of those who live under the same roof with them. Dogs are often noted to have a cool attitude even towards people they know. But in relation to the owner, the ambul feels a true sense of respect and affection.

The advantages of a dog include: fierce dedication misinterpreted by some as aggression. Everything is much simpler.

When there is a visible threat, the dog concentrates, and if it has made a decision, then the escape route is cut off. The dog itself makes the decision to attack, and it is unlikely that anything can stop it from this step.

Regarding the American Bulldog breed, the price of puppies is also considered a disadvantage. It is believed that the cost of babies of a common and fairly popular breed that is in certain demand should be comparable to the income of the population.

Question " what to feed an American Bulldog?“is very important. Chemical and biological processes constantly occur in the dog’s body so that part of the substances received with food is spent on maintaining vital functions. Therefore, proteins, fats, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals must be supplied in the required quantity and ratio.

It is important to feed your American Bulldog correctly

What to feed an American Bulldog: puppy and adult dog?

When choosing food, remember: it must be good to eat and at the same time have the required calorie content. But tastes and needs are a purely individual matter.

As a rule, adult dogs eat 2 times a day; if they bear significant loads, then 3 times. Feeding time depends on the rhythm of life of the owner and the dog.

It is important to feed your pet at the same time and in one place - with warm food. The bowl is washed after each feeding. Unfinished food is not left “for later”.

More than half of the diet should be meat. For an adult bulldog this is about 500 - 1000 grams per day (depending on size and load). Fatty meat and pork are not given to dogs. You can give offal (heart, lungs, kidneys, liver) - but only to adult dogs and in boiled form.

“Meat” days can be alternated with “fish” days. Sea fish is given raw or scalded with boiling water. River - exclusively boiled. The entrails must be removed from the fish.

Puppies up to 6-7 months after meat and fish are given fermented milk products (ryazhenka or kefir).

Seafood is healthy: squid, shrimp, seaweed. Dry seaweed can be added to any food.

It is necessary to give cartilage and bones raw, but not more than a couple of times a week and only after meals. Tubular and rib bones are not suitable - they are dangerous!

Dairy products are good, but dogs older than 2 months are given fermented milk products: fermented baked milk, kefir, bifidoc, yogurt. You can add sour cream to vegetable salad. A growing bulldog simply needs cottage cheese, but an adult dog will not refuse it. However, if an adult dog is fed cottage cheese, reduce the amount of meat or fish.

Butter is useful, but you should know when to stop. Up to 4 months you can feed 1 teaspoon per day, after 4 months - 1.5.

Do not neglect raw grated vegetables. These are carrots, beets, cabbage (it should be stewed a little). Puppies will not refuse fruits, berries, and greens.

Mix egg yolk with porridge and cottage cheese (one egg yolk twice a week), but only if your pet is not allergic to it.

Porridge (buckwheat, rice, rolled oats) is not the main food; in large quantities it can lead to obesity.

You should not give sweets, potatoes and legumes, as well as spicy, salty foods and smoked foods.

Particular attention is paid to feeding pregnant and lactating bitches and puppies.

Feeding regimen for an American Bulldog (adult and puppy)

How to choose dry food for an American Bulldog?

Dry food is widely available. You can always buy them, good food is balanced, and the variety of types allows you to choose what your pet needs. In addition, this food is convenient to store.

But there are also disadvantages:

• Dry food contains very little water, and the dog may become very thirsty. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure constant access to fresh water.
• The second disadvantage is related to the characteristics of the breed. Foods were formulated for the average dog, but the American Bulldog is different from most breeds. They are hyperactive; in the cold season, their thermal balance is disturbed and they require more energy than, for example, a shepherd dog of the same weight. Therefore, it is difficult to satisfy energy needs. However, veterinarians do not recommend exceeding the dosage.

Deciding what to feed your dog is a matter of personal preference and an individual approach. Monitor your pet’s behavior, well-being, coat condition, and nutritional status. If something goes wrong, this is a reason to reconsider your diet. If in doubt, it is better to consult a veterinarian.

What and how many times should you feed your American Bulldog?

For puppies up to six months of age, a mixed diet of three times a day is recommended, and for adult dogs, a mixed meal of two meals a day is recommended. After purchasing an American Bulldog puppy, you must feed it the same food as the breeder. Subsequently, food should be selected taking into account the personal preferences of a particular dog. While selection is taking place, it is not recommended to immediately purchase large packs of food.

As the main food, you can choose wet or dry food (preferably dry), and as a supplement you can use natural products prepared specifically for the American Bulldog. It is worth considering that only ready-made super-premium and premium-class food satisfies all the nutritional needs of ambulees. Cheap industrial food only gives a feeling of fullness and does not benefit the dog’s body.

Natural products in the puppy's diet from a very young age can include porridge made from rice, buckwheat, millet, barley or corn cereals and meat (except pork). From 16 weeks of age, by-products can be added. Fermented milk products and vegetables (pumpkin, cabbage, carrots, onions, zucchini) are also useful. You should not give American Bulldogs leftovers from the owner's food, sweet, fried, or salty foods. Vitamin complexes will be useful.

It is prohibited to overfeed an American Bulldog, especially during puppyhood, and to violate the feeding schedule.

What are the features of keeping an American Bulldog?

American bulldogs can be kept both in a country house and in a city apartment. However, when keeping bulldogs in apartments, it is necessary to train them more often, give them more physical activity, but without overusing them and taking into account the age of the bulldog. It is recommended that pets of this breed exercise at least one hour a day so that they can spend the excess energy accumulated during the day.

Despite their waywardness, American bulldogs feel happy when they help their owner and do some work for him. This point should be taken into account when keeping these dogs. Like physical activity, the work assigned to outpatients should be within their capabilities and should not harm their health.

You should also pay attention to increased salivation. American Bulldogs can leave their drool almost everywhere. These dogs also often snore at night. As for living together with other animals and children, American bulldogs get along quite calmly with animals of other species. There can be conflicts with dogs, especially of the same sex. Families with small children are not recommended to have an ambulatory dog ​​just for reasons of hygiene, but if you watch the face and wipe off drool in a timely manner, then there are no special contraindications.

What do you need to buy to own an American Bulldog?

Necessary items for keeping a dog such as an American Bulldog include:
- bedding,
- dishes (bowls on a stand),
- leash,
- collar,
- muzzle,
- hygiene and care products,
- food,
- medications,
- toys,
- special treats.

How to raise and train an American Bulldog on your own?

In fact, in raising and training an American Bulldog, there is only one truly important rule - no concessions. All other rules are, of course, important, but this is the key. If you give in to the dog at least once and give it the opportunity to act as it wants, and not as it was taught, correcting this situation will be very, very difficult. For example, the owner set a rule for the American bulldog “not to enter the bedroom”; no matter what happens, he should not be allowed to enter. Otherwise, the ambulatory will stop taking prohibitions seriously and will boldly ignore them, and if we take into account his stubbornness, then managing the pet’s behavior will become titanically difficult. However, not every person will be able to show firmness when looking at an ambulant, so dogs of this breed are not recommended for young people and inexperienced dog breeders.

American bulldogs are understanding and smart, they quickly absorb information, but they don’t always follow through. Due to their phlegmatic nature and stubbornness, they are sometimes considered stupid, but this is not the case. Dogs of this breed memorize a command and remember it throughout their lives, but in order to achieve it, the owner must be persistent and unshakable. Avoid repeating the same command over and over in inappropriate situations. As a reward for obedience, it is recommended to use special treats or just pieces of unsalted cheese. Also, when training, it is necessary to take into account the age of the ambulant.

What training courses are suitable for an American Bulldog and how much do they cost?

Owners of American Bulldogs are recommended to attend courses in the following order:
- General education course (3-4 thousand rubles),
- General obedience course (6-7.5 thousand rubles),
- General training course (from 8 thousand rubles),
- Controlled city or protection dog (4.5-5 thousand rubles).

Author: wolfonokW7
Copyright holder: Zooclub portal
When reprinting this article, an active link to the source is MANDATORY, otherwise, use of the article will be considered a violation of the Law on Copyright and Related Rights.

We all, of course, know about the existence of a so-called golden mean in any business. Indeed, no matter what you undertake, the main thing is not to overdo it and in no case do less than necessary. However, how rarely do we manage to find this golden mean! Training is a clear exception: you cannot make a dog too well-mannered. In its own way, good manners are a qualitative sign: a dog is either well-mannered or not. She cannot remain half-educated or not very well-educated for long.

Many dog ​​breeders also believe that education and training are one and the same thing.

But these concepts can only be called very close, which is why a completely separate chapter of our book is devoted to education. What is the difference between these concepts? Training is the memorization of certain commands and their subsequent correct execution. Well, education is the ability to adapt your needs to the environment in which you exist.

Thus, being trained is clearly an acquired quality, while good manners can easily be innate. If we translate all this into everyday examples, the situation will look like this: a dog that clearly follows all the owner’s commands during walks, the same dog that has developed dynamic stereotypes during the training process, in the absence of the owner can allow itself to steal a sandwich left by him from the table , climb on his bed or sit in a chair.

She is trained - no one argues. If the owner catches his pet at what is called a crime scene, he will menacingly say “Ugh!” or “Place!”, the dog will not touch the sandwich or leave the bed.

However, as soon as the owner turns away again, she will repeat her illegal actions again. In the same way, a well-trained dog can be completely untrained.

She can’t even imagine that she can lie on her master’s bed in his absence, but she also doesn’t follow commands. Both are signs, first of all, of the owner’s shortcomings: either there was not enough time, then there was no enthusiasm, then there were some other reasons. Don’t forget, dogs of our breed are guards, fighters, defenders. And in order to control power, both training and education are needed.

But we said that the concepts of education and training are very close to each other. What they have in common, first of all, is that education is based on the same principles on which training is based.

But if the main role in training is given to the person (he must give commands in a timely manner, stimulate the dog to carry them out, etc.), then education will not happen without the dog’s unique contribution. Think for yourself! Retrieval is the carrying of an object. A dog is naturally capable of grabbing prey and carrying it to the den, commanding “Sit!” or “Lie down!” are quickly and easily mastered, since these are again natural dog poses. But the desire to eat a piece of bun with sausage lying on the table in the kitchen, and even when no one is around, you need to overcome within yourself. And it is much more difficult for a dog to do this than to execute any command. It turns out that a command is a stereotypical action performed at the owner’s signal.

One stimulus (the command “Sit”) and one action (the dog goes down to the ground). But in education, the situation plays a huge role. After all, a sandwich may well turn out to be legitimate dog food if the owner wants to treat the dog, but in another situation it can cause a serious conflict.

What are the basic principles of raising a dog? There aren't many of them.

Principle one. Education should always take place. It is clear that during the life of a dog the situation around it can change dramatically. For example, in some cities it is allowed to carry dogs in transport, but in others it is not. If a dog has never ridden on a trolleybus, it will understandably be afraid and nervous.

Only an ill-mannered dog will allow itself to whine, bark, and try to jump out the window, but a well-mannered dog will look at the owner, see that he is calm, and stop worrying herself. Other circumstances in life can change in the same way.

Principle two. Everyone should be educated. It will probably never be respected. But this principle is very important. Why don't many dog ​​owners muzzle their pets? After all, this causes the well-founded indignation of others!

Yes, only because they are afraid of meeting someone with an aggressive dog.

As a rule, the owners of such dogs, realizing that they cannot cope with their pet, not only do not put a muzzle on them, but also walk with them without a leash.

Such a dog can bite anyone. So you have to leave your pet’s mouth free, if only for safety reasons.

By the way, you shouldn’t think that certain ethical standards should be known only to your dog. This applies to you too. After all, the dog’s upbringing often depends on your upbringing.

Principle three. Education must take into account the characteristics of the dog.

This principle must be observed at least for purely practical reasons. Why, for example, try to train a tired dog?

She simply will not perceive this upbringing properly.

Or why scold the dog for eating a sandwich without asking this morning?

It was in the morning, and now it’s evening! It was you who remembered the insult for the rest of your life, but the dog satisfied its gastronomic interests and forgot about it.

She simply won't understand you. Just as with training, it is important to understand the role of temperament in education. After all, what is especially important here? Of course, feedback.

For example, you make a suggestion to your dog. Cholerics will roll on the floor, squeal, and try to bite you (this, by the way, must be stopped immediately). You will think that the dog has finally gotten it. But no! It’s just that the type of their nervous activity implies violent reactions to everything that happens around them.

It's the same with phlegmatic people. In exactly the same situation, he, a phlegmatic person, will look at you with empty eyes for a long time. He will show absolutely no reaction to your stern, nurturing voice. If it comes down to a slap in the face, then the most he will do is lay down his ears and tail and leave the battlefield. You will think: “Here, I got caught!” And again you will be wrong. You simply did not see the reaction that takes place, so to speak, inside the dog. He, a phlegmatic person, is not characterized by a violent expression of his own emotions. He took in the information, digested it and drew conclusions for himself when you had not yet completed the educational process. Therefore, the main thing is not how the dog reacts to your upbringing, the main thing is how it changes its behavior after educational conversations. What is required from you here is maximum attention and knowledge of various dog gestures and signals.

For example, you raised your pet about the fact that he still ate this unfortunate sandwich of yours. The goal of your upbringing was to develop a stereotype in the dog: “you should never be in the kitchen under any circumstances.” To achieve this goal, the following actions were taken: the command “Place!” was given in a stern voice; when the dog reappeared in the kitchen, she received a light blow to the face with a kitchen towel; during the third attempt to violate the territorial boundaries of the kitchen, the owner’s slipper was sent to her. Please note that when raising, as well as during training, the owner is FORBIDDEN from spanking the dog with his hand or hitting it with his fist.

Any painful effect must occur through some foreign object: a rag, a twig, a special whip, and finally a trouser belt. In this case, the dog’s aggression and dissatisfaction will be directed at the object that hurts it, and not at the owner. In her understanding, the owner in such a situation acts only as a higher being who forces this object (a twig or a belt) to hurt the dog. Do you think there is no difference here?

It exists, and it is very significant. Firstly, from the standpoint of your safety: the dog will never grab your hand if you suddenly overdo it with punishment; she will grab a twig or a belt. Secondly, the perception of the owner as a kind, good person, an unconditional authority, who by being next to the dog gives him only joy, will never change. After all, it is not the owner himself who punishes, but the belt in his hands.

But we digress a little. Let's return again to our violator of the territorial boundaries of the kitchen and your attentive attitude to the manifestations of his mood. Let's assume that your pet is choleric. He will leave the kitchen immediately on command. Lightning fast, as if he wasn’t there! However, within a few minutes his shadow will appear in the corridor, quietly, along the wall, trying not to click his claws, he will sneak to the treasured table, choosing the moment when you are especially passionate about some kind of conversation, or even better, an argument. And here he is again under the table, at your feet, waiting until the delicious piece, shaken on the fork by your emotions, falls and becomes his prey.

At such moments, control yourself and remember: use a broom, a rag, a slipper, but NOT WITH YOUR HANDS! The pet squeals, tucks its tail, bends down to the floor and runs away. But after a while he sits under the table again as if nothing had happened.

What should we do with it? Ignore the squeals and flattened ears. This is just a sign that the dog is experiencing some unpleasant sensations. Continue the educational process in the same sequence: the command “Place!” – a light blow to the face – a well-aimed hit with a slipper. You shouldn’t show much pity: his squeal does not mean “it hurts”, but “it’s unpleasant for me.” These are two big differences. We dare to assure you that education will achieve its goal, but after a certain time.

But the phlegmatic one. Keep an eye on the ears and tail. Your dog reacts very calmly (at least outwardly) to educational conversations and actions. The command “Place!”, given at the initial stage of education, means for her only “Go away!” She leaves. Be sure that she will not leave her pillow before you finish dinner. But that doesn't mean she understood everything. The next morning she reappears under the table. This is where stronger measures of influence are required.

And when, upon entering the kitchen, the dog’s head is lowered and its ears are pressed back, only then can you say that the educational process is gradually achieving its goal.

The fact is that these are clear external signs that the dog has become uncomfortable for some reason. And this reason is not so important to us. After all, the beast is not a person. It’s common for people to go for a run in the morning, even if it’s raining outside, to go to a nasty job, or to do some other unpleasant thing. A dog will never stay where it feels bad or simply uncomfortable. The same thing will happen with the kitchen.

A phlegmatic person will not need a large number of repetitions of the educational process. He will understand everything almost immediately, because his emotions will not interfere with the perception of the essence of what is required of him.

But if such a phlegmatic person begins to show any dissatisfaction with your actions (for example, to bare his teeth or grumble), be extremely careful: this is the last warning, an extreme measure, which will be followed by an attack or some other aggressive action. And this will happen not because the dog “can afford it,” but because it “should do it.”

She tells you: “I already understand everything, stop hitting me with a belt.” This is exactly a warning. A warning to you. Therefore, often pay attention to the external manifestations of your pet’s mood and be attentive to them.

Unfortunately, so-called pure temperaments are very rare. You will never be able to find a pure phlegmatic, sanguine or melancholic person. They will certainly be in completely unimaginable mixtures. This should definitely be taken into account.

The need for this is due to the fact that manifestations of different types of temperament will be observed in your dog.

But fatigue and temperament are only a small part of what determines the education process. The gender of the dog also has a big influence. Firstly. If we put the person with his vision of the surrounding reality at the forefront, then there are certain qualities inherent in women and men.

And it is these qualities that need to be cultivated in a child of one gender or another. Often such a desire is subconscious and manifests itself in any actions of the parenting party, but it does not seem to depend on the will of the person, therefore it also manifests itself completely independently. Raising a girl means teaching her to dance, pampering her, and never demanding too much from her.

And when raising a boy, we focus on patience, physical strength, and courage. Do you think something different happens when raising dogs?

No no and one more time no. After all, often when buying a puppy a person is faced with the question: who to choose? And, answering this question, each of us already has a subconscious program for raising a puppy, a certain image that an adult dog must correspond to.

Thus, one of the main principles of education is immediately violated: “Everyone should be well-mannered.” How often do you see two dogs fighting on the street: “Here they are fighting again!” - you think. But how rarely it turns out to be males! You can't even imagine. We, of course, are not talking about the popular breed of court terriers, which are famous for their eccentricity and the fact that their owners almost never raise them. We are talking about purebred dogs.

Those for whom education is simply necessary. Who will argue with this? After all, when choosing a purebred dog, you mean its participation in exhibitions, and this is completely impossible without the most careful education and training. So, it’s the bitches who fight most often. Why?

Yes, precisely because their owners, and most often mistresses, never thought about the fact that they were holding in their hands a fighting machine, which was brought out for battle. They got themselves a cute girlfriend.

While she was lumbering around the apartment, she followed basic commands like “Sit!” or “Lie down!”, she caused a sea of ​​\u200b\u200bdelight. They told her about their problems, and she looked into her eyes with devotion and understanding, she was always there in difficult times, comforting as best she could. Nobody thought about education since childhood. But children grow and, as they mature, try to do what is in their genes. They strive to show how strong they are; they harbor hatred for their rivals.

When they meet this opponent, to the bewilderment of their hostesses, they rush into battle. Would you recognize yesterday’s girlfriend in this bristling monster? After all, this dog has been allowed absolutely everything since childhood, so what do you expect from it now? Therefore, if you are the owner of a well-mannered dog, be afraid of others who are ill-mannered, and if your dog does not have good manners, beware of the owners of well-mannered dogs. You should not attribute any human qualities to your pets.

Of course, they have something similar. But this is not a person. Male or female – it’s all the same: THE FIGHTING MACHINE IS IN YOUR HANDS. Since fighting qualities are fixed in the genotype, they have priority even in relation to the owner’s commands.

So, a dog rushes at the enemy in any case, only a trained one with an eye on the owner, and an ill-trained one without any restrictions. Thus, no matter how sweet and affectionate your dog is, you still need to educate her. And no, we emphasize, no distinction should be made between the sexes.

Now we need to say a few words about age. They say you can't teach an old dog new tricks because it's an old dog. And that's really true.

The older the dog, the more difficult it is to instill in it new skills and abilities, the more difficult it is to retrain it, to wean it from something. One thing is good: rarely do people get adult dogs; most often they are adopted as puppies. But here the next problem arises: the fact is that puppies develop very quickly. By the age of one year, a dog already knows everything there is to know about life. And life is millions and billions of situations, smells, tastes, sounds, people, cars, etc., etc. Therefore, if you take a puppy from its mother a day late, it will become so attached to its old owners that how attached an adult dog becomes in a month or two. Be 2-3 days late and you will have serious psychological problems for your dog. Arrive a week late and these problems can develop into parenting problems. And 2 weeks is enough for the dog to not consider you an authority at all. Therefore, as soon as the puppies have learned to eat on their own, or even a little earlier, they need to be picked up, acquired, bought, registered in clubs and started raising them. You should not think that you will ever be able to catch up. Education must begin immediately. One day in the life of a puppy is a month to a month and a half in the life of an adult dog. Give them more attention!

As for the American Bulldog, any trainer will tell you that they are very smart and intelligent, but extremely stubborn dogs. These are dogs on their own. They can very easily let the owner know that they have fully accepted his master’s upbringing, and then do the same dirty trick that this very upbringing was aimed at averting. What to do? For our dogs, it is especially important to begin education and training from early childhood. Think for yourself, if a puppy is prohibited from climbing onto the bed from the first months of life in the house, then in the future a 20-kilogram carcass will never jump on the bed in the middle of the night. Why? Yes, he simply cannot imagine that this can be done. But all sorts of indulgences for a small frozen dog will only lead to the fact that not the dog will sleep with you, but you with the dog.

We can say from our own experience: even a dog that curls up and fits on a small bedding, in the conditions of a human sofa, occupies the entire available space. And this doesn't just apply to the bed. The same can be said about giving treats in the kitchen and gnawing on slippers. The dog can be trained in such a way that it does not enter certain areas in your home. For example, you can make the kitchen a restricted area. Just start training from puppyhood, and an adult dog will feel so uncomfortable in this area that he will want to leave.

Principle four. Last but one of the most important. Everyone should educate.

Failure to comply with this principle is associated with many problems that arise with the training and education of dogs at the present time.

Generally speaking, a dog is a pack animal, like a wolf. And in a pack there are certain laws. And for a dog living in an apartment, the pack is entirely replaced by the family. All educators can be divided into democratic and totalitarian.

A totalitarian teacher strives to ensure that the dog follows only his commands, and the commands of others only with his permission. This is psychologically quite difficult for a dog, although some demonstrate excellent upbringing in such situations.

This is how service dogs are raised, with whom the owner is constantly present, and the dog has little contact with other people. But such constancy is almost impossible in modern life.

She is often left in the care of other people. Therefore, a second type of educator arises - democratic. It allows the dog to obey all family members.

Different people feed her, walk with her, everyone plays with her in different ways. It turns out that the dog has not one owner, but two or even three.

In this case, another problem arises: education and training should be the same for all owners. As for games and other pleasures, this is not regulated. But everything else should be exactly the same. Right down to the intonation with which commands are given.

Of course, this is if the dog is used for official purposes (for example, as a guard) by all family members.

In everyday life, it is enough for the wording of commands to be the same, and when training, similar methods of reward and punishment should be used. Everyone's requirements for a dog should be exactly the same. It should not be allowed for one person to chase a dog out of the kitchen, and another, in the absence of the first one, to give it a treat in the same kitchen.

In this case, no education will work. The dog will very quickly understand who is a good owner and who is a bad one. She will treat the good person (the one who allows everything and makes softer demands) with sympathy, and she may even show aggression towards the bad person (as a rule, he turns out to be a more demanding teacher).

We think that a good conclusion from all that has been said above can be a wonderful phrase said about raising dogs by one of our familiar dog handlers: “A dog will grow up the way you raise it. If you want to make a lap dog, it will be afraid of public transport and beg in the kitchen; if you want to have a fighter, a fearless guard and a good friend, there will be a fighter, and a friend, and a guard.”

Take this into account and remember: education should be for everyone, from everyone, always.

DEVELOPING SKILLS

This section will be the most important for those people who have decided to train their pet themselves. Remember!

You are not a professional trainer, so you should not expect immediate results. Training will take a lot of time, effort and patience, especially at first.

So, skills are peculiar forms of dog behavior acquired in the process of life or training. Skills can be very diverse, different in meaning and represent a clearly fixed sequential manifestation of several conditioned reflexes. For example, the skill of bringing objects is a sequence of processes of searching for an object, taking it with the teeth and bringing it to the trainer.

The skills that a person wants to instill in a trained dog are developed using four methods: imitative, taste-rewarding, contrasting and mechanical. The imitative method is based on the use of the innate ability of one dog to imitate the actions of another. This is inherent in nature itself, since dogs are pack animals.

In addition, they obey in their behavior the leader, and at the age of up to a year - the mother, who teaches the puppies caution, camouflage, active and passive defense. The better they imitate, the greater the effect they achieve. How can you not try! All that remains is to awaken the dormant instinct of imitation. As has been established, all innate instincts are complemented by life experience based on imitation and submission to force. Using this method, it is easy to teach dogs to overcome obstacles, grab, and detain a runaway. However, it cannot be used when teaching commands that prohibit an action.

Taste-encouraging method. With this training method, the dog is stimulated to perform the desired action by a food stimulus. In this case, giving treats is used to reinforce the conditioned reflex to a voice command or gesture.

If the command is executed correctly, the dog receives a treat; if it is incorrect, it does not. This method is very good when working with a dog with a pronounced predominance of food stimulus.

When other stimuli dominate, it is necessary to use a contrast method. The positive side of the taste reward method is the rapid formation in the dog of the majority of conditioned reflexes that require action.

Your pet shows extreme interest in performing these actions, and also easily maintains and strengthens contact with the trainer.

The main disadvantage of the method is that it does not ensure trouble-free execution of commands, especially in the presence of distracting stimuli. In addition, this method cannot process commands that prohibit an action. Nevertheless, the taste reward method is the main one when training puppies. Indeed, who, if not them, has the strongest food motivation?

The contrast method is the main one. It is used during training of both adult dogs and the younger generation. In principle, this is the same taste-rewarding method, only with increased impact in case of incorrect execution of the command. Its essence consists in a combination of mechanical and incentive effects on the central nervous system of the animal in various forms.

As a reward, not only treats can be used, but also stroking or some other techniques. In this case, mechanical stimuli are used to encourage the dog to perform desired actions, and incentive stimuli are used to reinforce these actions.

For example, when practicing the “Sit” command, it is given in a stern tone, the trainer presses his hand on the dog’s sacrum (mechanical impact), and after sitting he gives a treat and rewards with stroking, an approving “Okay, well done.”

When using this method, conditioned reflexes to certain commands are reinforced very quickly and do not fade for a long time. At the same time, the dog is certainly interested in following the command (after all, there is reinforcement with a treat). The dog’s contact with the trainer is also maintained and strengthened. In a similar way, it is possible to achieve the dog’s failure-free execution of practiced actions in difficult conditions (for example, in the presence of strong distracting stimuli). The method as a whole is the simplest for the dog: it is easiest for him to understand what needs to be done (through mechanical action), and it is clear what the reward will be (reward with a treat).

The mechanical method consists in using a mechanical stimulus as an unconditional stimulus, causing the dog to want to avoid mechanical action. For example, the landing reflex is practiced by pressing the hand on the dog’s lower back (the mechanical stimulus not only causes an unconditioned reflex, but also reinforces the conditioned stimulus, i.e., a command or gesture). The positive aspects of this method are that all actions are reinforced in the dog as firmly, reliably as possible and are performed flawlessly.

The method is used when training adult dogs with a well-balanced nervous system. With its frequent use in training young dogs, a depressed, inhibited state and distrust of the trainer sets in. The dog begins to fear the trainer and follows his commands forcefully, without interest. When using this method, under no circumstances should prolonged or severe pain be applied to the animal. One should take into account his individual characteristics, remembering that the dog’s depressed state, passivity and cowardice make it impossible to practice the necessary skills.

Each skill, after final practice, should represent a completely completed action. In this case, the temporary connection in the cerebral cortex is consolidated and usually becomes permanent. It is almost impossible to destroy it, and this often requires exorbitant incentives. The consolidation of undesirable temporary relationships often causes the presence of the so-called spoiled dog. For example, a dog came into the kitchen, made a grimace at an emaciated, sad dog that had not eaten for two years, received a piece - here’s your reinforcement.

After 10–15 such reinforcements, the dog will allow itself to climb onto the table and independently take a piece that it likes. A characteristic feature of bulldogs and bull terriers is that it is IMPOSSIBLE to wean them from this. The only thing left to do is NOT TRAIN.

The development of a skill goes through several stages.

1. It is necessary to evoke an initial reaction in the dog (i.e., some required action) in response to a certain conditioned stimulus (sound command or gesture).

It is characterized by the fact that the dog exhibits poor differentiation of conditioned stimuli (it does not clearly distinguish commands and is confused in their execution).

The trainer should reward with treats only the correct execution of the command. Classes should be carried out without extraneous stimuli distracting the dog and on a short leash.

2. Gradual complication of the initially developed action to a skill. In this case, other actions are added to the initial action (the main conditioned reflex), complicating it.

For example, approaching the trainer with the command “Come to me!” complemented by walking around it from the right to the left leg and landing independently. At this stage, you should not complicate the conditions in which the skill is practiced. This will ensure quick and easy production.

3. This is the consolidation of a skill in difficult environmental conditions (for example, in the presence of extraneous distracting stimuli).

This is necessary in order to achieve trouble-free manifestation of skills or bring them to automatism. When conducting classes, they change the place, time, conditions, use stronger measures of influence on the dog, use not only the imitative, but also the contrasting method of training, and during training, mainly the mechanical method.

As a result of training, i.e., developing skills, the dog develops a certain dynamic stereotype of behavior. Dynamic, i.e. one that manifests itself differently depending on the situation.

A dynamic stereotype is understood as the ability of the animal’s cerebral cortex to generalize and connect individual conditioned reflexes, as well as conditioned stimuli, into a specific system.

The manifestation of a dynamic stereotype lies in the dog’s ability to program its behavior (for example, when presenting an object to the trainer, the dog sits down and waits for him to take it).

The stronger the dynamic stereotypes, the more reliable the dog’s work. However, if the trainer acts incorrectly, the dog may develop a negative (unnecessary) stereotype. For example, if you give commands in the same sequence (“Stop!”, “Sit!”, “Lie down!”, etc.), while maintaining relatively equal intervals of time between their presentation, the dog will firmly master a certain sequence performing actions, will perform them in this sequence, no longer reacting to given commands.

To avoid this, when training dogs, be sure to alternate between different commands and training times.

When developing skills, trainers usually use general and special training techniques. General training techniques make it easier for the dog to obey the trainer and create conditions for controlling its behavior by strengthening the connection (contact) between the trainer and the dog.

Special training techniques lay down skills, the development of which ensures the use of the dog for certain purposes (for example, as a search, guard, hunting, etc.).

The success of training largely depends on environmental conditions. Hot or cold weather makes work difficult, windy weather makes it easier or more difficult to control the dog’s behavior, etc. The most favorable air temperature for training is from – 15 to + 20 °C. Training in extremely cold or hot weather should be infrequent, but nevertheless necessary. Their main advantage is that they improve the dog’s performance qualities. After all, what a dog can do at extremely low temperatures or in the heat, it can easily and happily do under normal conditions. Indeed, everything is learned by comparison.

When training, each dog requires an individual approach, i.e., taking into account the behavior, state of its body, age, conditions of raising and education.

The predominant behavioral reaction and the characteristics of the nervous system of puppies and young dogs up to 1.5 years are taken into account (when training young animals, it is especially easy to injure their nervous system).

Young animals need to be brought into work gradually, following an exercise regimen and more often using the imitative method. If a food reaction predominates in a young dog, more food stimuli should be used. If there is a passive defensive reaction, mechanical stimuli must be used carefully.

If an active-defensive reaction predominates in a dog, exercises to develop anger are carried out after practicing inhibitory reflexes. When training dogs with an excitable type of nervous system, inhibitory skills should be carefully and gradually developed, since tension in the inhibitory process can lead to neurosis. It should be taken into account that dogs of the active type (sanguine) are easily trained, while dogs of the inert type (phlegmatic) develop skills slowly.

When organizing classes in groups, the instructor must draw up an individual schedule.

The manifestation of unwanted skills in dogs should be suppressed. For example, an undesirable skill develops when a dog tends to attack a domestic animal, bark at flying birds, chase them, etc. As a result, it becomes unfit for duty, and it can be very difficult to wean it from this.

You should also not allow the dog to be set on passers-by or children, otherwise it will always show aggressiveness, attack strangers without the command of the trainer and become dangerous to others, which will make it impossible to keep it in apartment conditions.

Please note and remember that mistakes made during the training process make it difficult for dogs to develop skills in the future and lead to unwanted reflexes that reduce their performance and other qualities.

For example, improper use of a leash on a dog can lead to a reflex of fear of the trainer.

The trainer may confuse the order of application of conditioned and unconditioned stimuli. For example, he will jerk the leash (an unconditioned stimulus), and then give the command “Near!” (conditioned stimulus). This violation of one of the laws of the emergence of a conditioned reflex leads to a disruption in the contact between the trainer and the dog. The dog will be constantly afraid of the tug of the leash.

She may also have an undesirable reaction to the situation and time if training is always carried out in the same place and at the same time. Often the owner is perplexed why the dog, while doing everything at home, does not work on the site. This phenomenon is explained by the fact that the reflex fades under the influence of strong extraneous stimuli. From this we should conclude that this skill has not been developed to the point of automaticity, and continue working.

Anyone starting dog training should know the following requirements.

The first lessons should be aimed only at establishing mutual understanding between the trainer and the dog.

Under no circumstances should you start training from the first minutes of class.

Techniques and exercises should be practiced in accordance with the principle “from simple to complex.” It is necessary to start classes in places with the least amount of extraneous irritants.

A strict sequence in developing skills must be observed. Techniques must be practiced in combination, that is, several techniques must be practiced simultaneously and in parallel, and the skills must be in different stages of formation. You should not strive to form a dynamic stereotype all at once; it is better to create it gradually:

1) it is better to start practicing a new technique in the first half of the lesson, but not at the very beginning, when the dog is not yet obedient enough, but not at the end, when it is tired;

2) you need to exercise at different times, but always before feeding or 2 - 3 hours after it.

You should not repeat the same technique more than 3-4 times - this tires the dog;

3) before starting classes, it is necessary to decide what the trainer wants to achieve and how he will achieve his goal.

GENERAL INITIAL DOG ​​TRAINING

General initial training is necessary for dogs of absolutely all breeds - service, hunting, decorative. It develops in animals the very first skills of obedience and correct behavior in various living and working conditions.

Without mastering these rules, a dog actually cannot be in the city among people. Among dog handlers, this course is abbreviated as OKD (general training course). However, depending on the further use of the dog, the skills of the UGS (controlled city dog) or ZGS (protective city dog) courses can be imparted to it.

To successfully carry out the training process, in addition to the basic rules, it is necessary to know the character of the dog, the characteristics of its behavior, the type of higher nervous activity and the predominant reaction.

For each lesson, it is advisable to draw up a plan for practicing a particular skill.

The duration of the lesson should be no more than 2 hours with breaks for the animal to rest. It is better to practice while walking, using game situations and creating variety in practicing skills.

To more effectively carry out the training process, as well as for everyday communication with the dog, you need to purchase the following things: a collar (regular and strict), a harness, a muzzle, a short leash (2 m), a long leash (8 - 10 m), 6 retrieving sticks ( for initial training in fetching and further training in fetching), chain for tethering (if the dog is not kept in an apartment).

For our breed this is not so necessary, because certain problems with keeping a dog outside the house during the cold season will certainly arise.

Puppy training

The best time to raise and train a dog is when it is a puppy. Some of the simplest skills are taught to a puppy as early as 1.5 - 2 months.

When starting educational training for a puppy, you need to remember the following:

1) one cannot demand from him a precision in mastering skills that is beyond his physical development and tire him with repeated repetition of the same technique;

2) commands must always be given clearly and uniformly, with the same intonation of voice;

3) you can move on to more complex ones only after mastering simple skills;

4) during training, mechanical measures cannot be used for failure to comply with commands (hitting the puppy with a leash, whip or hand);

5) it is necessary to develop conditioned reflexes while playing or walking in good weather;

6) you should definitely reward the puppy with a treat and the exclamation “Good!” and stroking for good execution of commands;

7) you cannot replace commands with words with the same meaning, but different sounds. For example, telling the puppy “Lie down” instead of giving the normative command “Lie down”;

8) you need to ensure that the puppy complies with your command;

9) the puppy should not be allowed to follow commands from strangers;

10) during educational training, you should observe the puppy’s behavior and predominant reactions, so as not to injure his nervous system;

11) it is advisable to give commands simultaneously with both voice and gesture during the period of educational training. For example, the command “Come to me!” accompany with a hand clap on the thigh, etc.

If you are having trouble training your puppy, contact a service dog club, a hunting society or a toy dog ​​club, where you can get the necessary recommendations. There is only one piece of advice: be more patient. Puppies of dogs of all breeds, of course, look alike. Of course, children are children. But just remember that you are preparing yourself a guard, watchman or show dog. And the skills for this should be instilled from childhood.

Many people believe that bulldogs are one of the smartest dogs. Well, there is little that can be argued here. Along with German shepherds, they are one of the most common police dogs in their homeland, England and America. Let's try to delve into the wilds of canine psychology and find out why instilling skills in an ambulant is much easier and more enjoyable than in a staff terrier or lapdog. The answer is very simple: bulldogs are much calmer. Perhaps this characteristic does not suit your pet in any way, but in general for the breed this is exactly the case. I believe that everyone will agree that excessive nervousness prevents the dog from learning commands correctly. With Ambul you will never have such problems.

But what is not easy to cope with when training an Ambul is the feeling of his superiority over a person. It is developed quite well for him. Of course, this characteristic can be applied to different dogs to varying degrees, but whatever you say, it suits every bulldog. What is this connected with? Perhaps with the strength of a dog, perhaps with a fairly large size. However, in any case, if you want to raise a dog that respects its owner and obeys him in everything, you will have to work hard. How can you compensate for dog stubbornness? ONLY WITH YOUR PATIENCE AND CALM! Try not to show aggression towards your pet, especially a puppy.

Teaching a puppy a name

The dog's name is chosen at the request of the owner. It should be as short as possible, with a predominance of voiced consonants and not very common. Try not to name two puppies in the same litter with the same or similar names.

We can also say from experience that human names do not suit dogs at all.

Puppies are taught to have a nickname from the age of one month. This is best done when calling the puppy on walks or while playing with him.

With each call, the puppy is given a treat or petted. The dog's name should always be pronounced in an inviting intonation; it should not be distorted or replaced with affectionate nicknames, as many owners often do.

Usually the dog quickly gets used to its name and reacts to it quickly.

Accustoming a puppy to a collar

A collar is put on a puppy from 1.5 to 2 months of age. First, the puppy is allowed to sniff it so that he will not be afraid of this procedure in the future. The collar should be soft, light and loose.

It should under no circumstances put pressure on the neck or make breathing difficult. The collar is put on the puppy for the first time a few minutes before feeding.

During feeding, the puppy is busy eating and reacts less to the collar. After feeding, it is better to take the puppy outside in your arms and let him run around where he is supposed to be walked with in the near future. After returning home, you should remove the collar and put it back on before the next feeding. After repeating this procedure several times (usually by 3-4 months), the sight of the collar makes the puppy want to put his head up on his own, get food and go for a walk.

Leash training a puppy

Like all children, puppies are very active. By the age of 2 months, the puppy runs quite quickly and can even unnoticed or simply unknowingly jump out onto the roadway, get hit by a car, or fall into some hole. In this case, the need arises for walks on a long leash. For such walks, they usually choose a long rope or strong braid leash, give it to the puppy to sniff, and discreetly fasten it to the collar. Then it is recommended to run away from the puppy so that he runs after the owner with the leash trailing behind him. After a long game, the leash is unfastened, and after a while it is fastened again. After a few days, the puppy will get used to the leash and will not be afraid of it. The leash is gradually shortened and, after giving the puppy a treat, walk him on the leash, preventing the puppy from biting or pulling. This is especially important for the American Bulldog, since these active and very strong dogs cannot get used to the fact that some object limits their freedom of movement for a long time. We must remember that you should never use a leash to punish a puppy.

Teaching a puppy to sit on command

At the age of 1.5 - 2 months, the puppy is taught to sit down, for which it is necessary to clearly, in a calm voice pronounce the command “Sit!” and at the same time raise your hand with the treat above the puppy’s head, bringing it back a little. The puppy will raise its head to look at the treat and instinctively sit down. As soon as the puppy sits down, you need to repeat the command “Sit!” and following this in a gentle tone say “Okay!” and give the puppy a treat. After repeated repetitions of this technique, the puppy will learn the skill, and in the future, instead of a treat, it will be possible to utter only the exclamation “Good!” and pet your pet.

Teaching a puppy to lie down on command

After the puppy has mastered the “Sit” skill, they begin to teach him to lie down on command. It must be said that the lying position is much more difficult for a dog to master, since evolutionarily, sitting is intended for rest, and a horizontal position is a pose of submission, fear, and then simply uncomfortable - the grass blocks the view. To develop this skill, a puppy sitting at his left leg is shown a treat held in his right hand, the treat is extended forward and down, while simultaneously pressing on the puppy’s withers, preventing him from standing up, and the command “Lie down!” is given.

As soon as the puppy lies down, they immediately give him a treat in his right hand and say “Good!” After practicing the command “Lie down!” from a sitting position, they begin to practice this skill at a distance of 1 - 2 m, gradually increasing the time between performing the command and giving the treat, preventing an attempt to change the position with the repeated command “Lie down!” threatening intonation.

It is important to remember that it is much easier for a dog to lie down from a sitting position than from a standing position. As a rule, they are very reluctant to do the latter.

Therefore, make sure that you do not develop a stereotype for consistently executing the command “Sit!” and “Lie down!”

Teaching a puppy to stand on command

This skill is developed at the age of 5–7 months and after mastering the commands “Sit!” and “Lie down!” Command "Stop!" requires a lot of endurance, as it requires a delay in a fixed position, especially one in which it is not normal for a dog to freeze.

This skill is practiced in the following sequence: the puppy sitting at the foot is given the command “Stop!” and with their left hand they lift his torso in the abdominal area.

As soon as the puppy stands up, he is encouraged by stroking, repeating the exclamations “Stop!” and “Good!”, and then give a treat. When the puppy tries to sit, the left hand is again placed under the stomach, supporting him in a standing position and repeating the command “Stop!” After the command skill has been mastered, they move on to practicing this skill from a lying position and at a distance of up to 10 m with a holding time of about 30 s.

Accustoming a puppy to a muzzle

Puppies of large or aggressive breeds are taught to wear a muzzle from the age of 5 months. The muzzle is selected according to the dog's head. The most convenient is considered to be a blind muzzle made of a solid piece of leather with holes for air. Before putting a muzzle on the puppy, let him smell it. After putting a treat in the muzzle, they put it on the puppy and at the same time give the command “Give me your head!”

After 2 – 3 minutes. The muzzle is removed, the puppy is given a treat and stroked. By repeating this technique daily, you gradually increase the time the puppy spends in the muzzle. If you do this before every walk, the puppy will not be too depressed by the procedure of putting on the muzzle and will soon get used to it. As the puppy grows, the muzzle must be changed several times. At the same time, the puppy should be accustomed to a new thing each time. After all, each muzzle can have its own smell. You should not hope that this thing will not be useful to you. There are different situations in life. It is better to train your dog right away.

Training a puppy to show its teeth

It is necessary to accustom a puppy to showing its teeth from 2 to 3 months, given that at 5 months a puppy can go to the first exhibition in its life. At the exhibition, examination of the condition of the puppies' teeth is necessary to award a grade and determine the correctness of its physical development.

Using a contrast training method, the owner, returning with the puppy from a walk, sits him down at the command “Sit!” and gives the treat that the puppy sat down to receive. Holding the puppy, for example, by stepping on the leash with his foot, the owner gives the commands “Okay!”, “Sit!” and immediately another - “Show your teeth!”

After the command “Show your teeth!”, given with a commanding intonation, he places his right hand with the palm under the puppy’s muzzle, and his left hand on top of the muzzle.

Repeating the command again, he uses the thumbs of both hands to spread the puppy's lips in front.

After examining the bite and the number of incisors, the owner moves the lips away from the sides and examines the molars. After finishing the inspection, he should praise the puppy and give him the desired treat.

You should pay attention to the position of your hands, because the experts at the exhibition will do the same.

Dental examinations are performed daily. When the puppy gets used to showing his teeth at home without extraneous stimuli, they move on to examining his teeth in the yard, but only after the puppy has recovered. Gradually this technique is brought to skill. Later, upon hearing the commands “Sit!”, “Show your teeth!”, the dog itself begins to raise its lips, without resisting examination of the teeth.

Teaching a puppy not to pick up food waste from the ground

Currently, there are too many simply harmful or spoiled products scattered on the street. All of them may have an unfamiliar smell to the puppy, and due to natural curiosity, the latter may show great interest in them.

During walks, the puppy often grabs and tries to eat food waste (bones, bread, etc.). To wean him from this harmful skill, you need to take him on a long and light leash and, every time he tries to pick something up from the ground, immediately give the command “Fu”! in a threatening manner and pull the leash.

The puppy must throw the taken object. If he does not do this, you need to pull out the item taken from him with your hands, while saying the command “Give!” From 7 to 8 months, you can put a strict collar on a puppy who grabs garbage from the ground and, when he tries to grab something from the ground, pull the leash and at the same time give the command “Ugh!”

If the puppy shows persistence, the command “Fu!” repeat, and the puppy is lightly hit in the face with the taken away object. Stopping unwanted actions on command is very important, especially in the service use of dogs, so train your dog to reliably carry out the command “Fu!” extremly necessary. Which puppy commands may cause difficulties for Ambule owners? This is primarily the command “Down!” and “Give me your head!” Why? Let's figure it out now.

Let's start with the command "Lie down!" For us humans, lying down is a sign of a calm, peaceful rest at home in the evening on the couch. No one can stop us, especially since we have absolutely nothing to fear. But for a dog, this pose has a slightly different meaning. Firstly, from a lying position there is a very poor view, so a completely instinctive fear appears. Secondly, your dog is a fighter. For a fighter, to lie down means to lose, to submit to the opponent. Hence the problems, the dog’s unreasonable stubbornness and conflicts with the owner or trainer.

Don't be upset if the dog doesn't want to follow your command. For such active and playful breeds, especially in puppyhood, there is a very interesting way of teaching the “Down!” command.

Try the following: lie down yourself and call the puppy to you. When he approaches you, lightly hit his front paws with your palms. His first action is to grab your hands and play with you.

After some time, he will understand that it is much easier to do this from a lying position, and since this happens during what he considers an exciting game, he will not feel any danger or discomfort.

After you have achieved the desired action from the dog, immediately replace the game with some other reward, for example, a piece of treat clenched in a fist lowered to the ground. If this is not done on time, then the command “Lie down!” will be perceived by the dog as an invitation to play, and this is unacceptable.

The command “Give me your head!” may also be difficult for fighting dog breeds to learn. This happens because the dog is quite aggressive by nature, therefore, no matter how hard you try, conflicts on the street with other dogs cannot be avoided. This is where the limiting effect of the muzzle comes into play. And it limits that energy, fighting fervor, all those passions that are in the blood of your ambulant. That's a nasty muzzle!!! The perception of it the next time it is worn is unlikely to change.

What can be recommended to prevent a dog's attitude towards a muzzle from becoming simply terrible? Make sure that there are no conflicts with other dogs in the first few days. To do this, start muzzle training somewhere in the country or on a country walk, where there are simply no other dogs. Especially beware of situations when your neighbor’s dog attacks your dog, and yours is muzzled and therefore cannot repel the attack. In general, if there are dog breeders in the yard of your house who prefer to walk their pets without muzzles, despite their aggressiveness, you should also refuse to walk with a muzzle. There is no time for good manners and culture of communication! Involuntarily, you begin to fear for your pet.

Adult dog training

Your baby is gradually growing. Now some commands have already been fully mastered, and new ones need to be mastered. Remember that if you do not start training in childhood, it will be much more difficult to do in the future.

And it will require more persistence from you, and more strength from the dog. Training an adult dog is not an easy task, especially for breeds with “character”. And in the ambulatory this character is expressed in the best possible way. This is a fighter, very self-possessed, sometimes slightly aggressive, calm, but in some cases aware of his superiority. The main thing is that this is not a weak-willed domestic dog, but a strong, independent dog. The main tips for training adult Ambules are the following. First, try not to put yourself above the dog. Show your superiority and power only in extreme cases. Ambul is not a dog - a servant, but a dog - a partner. If you don’t like this state of affairs, refuse to buy Ambul altogether.

Second, use patience, not beating or intimidation. When training Ambul, remember the popular expression: a drop breaks a stone not by force, but by frequent falling. Nothing is impossible. Even the most hopeless dog can be trained and educated.

So, about training adult dogs.

The dog approaches the trainer (command “Come to me!”)

When calling the dog, loudly and clearly give the command “Come to me!” To facilitate the development of the reflex, simultaneously with the pronouncement of the command, raise the right hand to the side with the palm down to shoulder level, and then sharply lower it to the thigh of the right leg.

This is equivalent to patting the thigh when training a puppy, only there was no need to raise your hand high so that the dog would not be distracted. At the beginning of training, the dog's approach should be practiced on a long leash, which provides the opportunity to use an unconditioned stimulus - a jerk - in case of disobedience. Gradually you can switch to calling with a hand gesture and voice.

The dog's approach to the trainer should always be quick, willing and reliable. There should never be a situation where a command is given and the dog does not come. With a slow and sluggish approach, it is recommended to run away from the dog, repeating the same command “Come to me!” and showing her a treat. If the dog does not fit, then you need to pull it with a long leash, but only after the command “Come to me!”, and not before it. After initially practicing the skill, the exercise can be complicated.

When approaching, the dog is taught to walk around the trainer on the right side and sit at his left leg. To do this, the trainer shows her a treat that is in his right hand, transfers the treat behind his back from his right hand to his left, and thereby encourages the dog to walk around him from behind and stand at his left leg.

At the same time, he pronounces the command “Near!” If after the command “Near!” The dog does not sit down on its own, the command “Sit!” is given.

This is, of course, not necessary; This exercise is recommended for service dogs.

The gesture skill is practiced as follows: when sitting or laying the dog down, move away from it by the length of the leash, give the command “Come to me!” gesture, and if the dog does not respond, then they give a command with a voice, and then pull the dog with a leash.

It is necessary to call the dog while walking, playing with it, and after giving treats, let it go for a walk again.

Typical mistakes of the trainer are threatening intonation and punishment when calling or untimely giving of treats.

Remember that the dog must be rewarded for every correctly performed action, so do not forget to praise it with the exclamation “Good!”

Teaching a dog to walk next to a trainer

For puppies, this is not so important, since it is pleasant even just to look at a cheerful eared creature running joyfully and carefree across the lawn. This skill is necessary specifically for adult dogs.

Firstly, it shows the culture of an amateur dog breeder and his dog when moving through populated areas. Secondly, that unpleasant situation will never arise when a dog just becomes interested in a random passer-by and comes up to sniff him, and he is already screaming throughout the street and trying to climb onto the nearest lamppost.

The conditioned stimulus when developing this skill is the command “Near!” The dog is taken on a short leash and placed on the left side so that the knee of the trainer’s left leg touches the dog’s right shoulder blade. This position allows you to observe the dog’s behavior and makes it easier to control. The trainer takes the leash with a loop in his right hand, and holds the leash with his left hand at a distance of 20 - 30 cm from the collar. It must be remembered that when practicing the command “Near!” You cannot keep the leash in a constantly taut position and repeat the command frequently. As soon as the dog takes the correct position at the trainer’s leg, they begin to move, first saying the dog’s name to attract its attention, then the command “Near!”, and then jerking the leash in the left hand to force the dog to walk at the left leg.

At the beginning of training, the dog, of course, either lags behind, then runs ahead or tries to run to the side, etc. In this case, the dog with a calm, always calm, but commanding intonation of voice is given the command “Near!” and immediately tug on the leash, patting themselves on the left leg. While moving, the exercise is gradually made more difficult: they change the pace of movement, make stops, turns right, left or around, repeating the command “Near!” and pulling the leash towards your leg.

After the dog has mastered moving next to the trainer on a leash, they move on to moving next to the trainer without a leash. This transition is carried out gradually: first, the leash is held in a weakened state, and then lowered to the ground. If at the same time the dog tries to run away, take the leash in your hands and give the command “Near!” in a threatening intonation, reinforced by a strong tug of the leash.

Periodically, the leash is unfastened and the animal is rewarded with a treat for correct actions. If desired, you can also teach the dog to go to the left or right of the trainer, depending on the command given.

This can be useful if you have to walk your dog in particularly busy places (for example, along the central streets of the city).

This gives the following advantage: passers-by, seeing that the owner is between them and the dog, treat the dog much calmer, which is extremely important due to the fact that there are a lot of rumors about the ferocity of American bulldogs.

Typical mistakes of the trainer: frequent use of commands in a threatening intonation, sharp and strong jerks with the leash in the initial stage of training, use of jerks with the leash before a voice command, strong pulling on the leash, leading to the formation of an undesirable reaction in the dog, constantly pulling forward, frequent repetition of the command “Near!” , not supported by a jerk of the leash, movement and turns without a preliminary command.

Free state (command “Walk!”)

A free state is necessary for a dog to rest, walk and relieve work stress. Usually it is mastered quickly, the developed reflex does not fade away. The trainer gives the command “Walk!”, simultaneously unfastening the leash and accompanying the command with a gesture of throwing the right hand from the bottom up to a height slightly above the shoulder and towards the desired direction of the dog’s movement.

At the moment the command is given, the trainer’s body tilts towards the throw of the right arm and the extension of the right leg. And there is nothing to laugh and smile!

It may seem funny in words, but in training all these gestures are of great importance. During the free state, the trainer watches the dog, calls, and attracts its attention with play. Shouting and threats are not allowed.

The dog's actions can only be controlled by the prohibiting command “Fu!”

Mistakes of the owner: inattentive observation of the dog, premature release of the dog from the leash, leaving it free in crowded places and in the presence of traffic.

One of the most serious mistakes is calling the dog only when stopping the walk. After several times, the dog will simply stop coming to you - he doesn’t want to go home.

The possibility of free movement is usually actively used by the dog. When freeing a male dog from a leash, you should first make sure that there is no female dog nearby in heat. Otherwise, you may lose your dog.

Stopping unwanted dog actions (command “Fu!”)

This skill is essential for all dogs of all breeds. The command is used both to stop the dog’s unwanted actions and when attempting to perform them. Team "Ugh!" should always be confirmed by an unconditioned stimulus: a tug on the leash or a strict collar.

Team "Ugh!" pronounced with the strictest intonation, loudly, clearly, and at the moment when the trainer has established the cause of the distraction or the beginning of the dog’s unwanted actions. When walking your dog on a leash, you need to carefully monitor its behavior. When she tries to pounce on a bird or other animal or pick up food, the trainer loudly and sharply gives the command “Ugh!” and at the same time tugs strongly on the leash. If the dog tries to repeat an unwanted action, it is again stopped by the command “Ugh!” and a sharp jerk of the leash. However, the force of the jerk must be proportionate to the physical condition of the dog, its age, character and degree of excitement.

If the jerk does not cause the necessary braking process, the dog is treated with a strict collar or a light blow of the whip.

Consolidation of the skill is checked by walking the dog on a longer leash, after which classes are carried out without a leash, and stronger stimuli are specially introduced: they ask an assistant to throw tasty food, they let other dogs or puppies play, and the trained dog is forced to continue moving next to the trainer or follow other commands, both at the foot and at a distance.

Typical mistakes of the trainer: inept, frequent and unnecessary use of the command “Fu!”, use of the command without jerking the leash, delay in giving the command, use of the jerk with the leash without taking into account the physical development of the dog, use of too strong painful stimuli. It is especially dangerous, for example, to spank a dog with your hand. If the use of painful stimuli is required, then they must be applied through some object (for example, a whip or leash).

After all, the dog’s sudden aggression is directed precisely at the object that causes pain. We don't think it will be good if it turns out to be your hand.

Teaching a dog to refuse food offered by strangers or found food

It is a continuation and complication of the training with which we taught the puppy to refuse the food he found. The difficulty of training this skill is that the dog needs to develop inhibition of the food reaction. The skill is necessary to develop a distrustful attitude towards strangers and protect the dog from poisoning attempts.

A conditioned stimulus is a jerk with a leash, a strict collar, or a blow with a whip.

A dog is taught not to take food from the hands of strangers in the following way. During the first lessons, she is fed 3–4 hours before exercise.

She is on a short leash near the trainer or tied to a tree or post. The assistant approaches the dog, holding meat, bone or other treat in his right hand, and in his left hand a whip or light twig hidden behind his back.

He offers her food, affectionately calling her name. When the dog tries to take food, the trainer must give the command “Fu!”

At this moment, the helper lightly hits the dog with food or a whip clenched in his fist and moves away, but after 2–3 minutes he approaches again and offers food.

If the animal again tries to take food, then the assistant just as easily hits it in the face with his fist and waves the whip, and the trainer, in a threatening intonation, gives the command “Ugh!” If this does not produce the necessary effect on the dog, the helper can hit it on the side with a whip. Dogs with strong food reactions are trained using a strict collar.

The exercise is repeated several times with different helpers and with a variety of food. Why with an assistant? Yes, so as not to develop an aggressive reaction to the trainer or owner. In this case, the assistant should be a complete stranger.

Based on the last requirement, the trainer’s mistake is to conduct classes with the same assistant and on the same area of ​​terrain; using one type of treat. In such cases, the concept is developed that the dog should not take this particular food or from this particular person, and not food at all.

Dropped food is a different matter. There seems to be no direct contact with a person here. Therefore, the task of the training is to establish a connection between the food that appears in front of the dog and the person throwing it. There are several ways to train a dog not to take thrown food. In one case, the assistant, approaching the dog, throws food in front of it, and he himself goes into hiding. If a dog, in the absence of an assistant, tries to take food, then the trainer gives it the prohibiting command “Ugh!”, accompanied by a sharp tug of the leash.

In another case, having tied the dog, the trainer goes into shelter (behind a tree, around the corner of the house), quietly watching it. If a dog tries to take food thrown in his absence, then the helper with a wave of the whip causes an active defensive reaction in it, and the owner who runs up encourages its actions with the command “Good!” and gives her a treat.

Another option for developing a skill is possible. At the direction of the trainer, his assistant lays out various food at inconspicuous landmarks. A trainer with a dog on a short leash walks through an area where food is scattered, and then gives the dog the command “Walk!” and carefully observes her behavior.

If the dog tries to take food, the command “Fu!” follows. and a jerk with the leash, and so on several times, until the dog learns that food cannot be taken from the ground. This exercise is repeated while keeping the dog on a long leash, and when it is mastered, you can continue without a leash.

There are cases when training dogs with a strong food reaction does not give the desired effect in refusing the thrown food. In such cases, a very strong unconditioned stimulus is used (for example, an electric shock device or other sources of electric current). They do it this way: a thin insulated electrical wire connected to a current source is connected to the scattered pieces of food. The trainer, having come to the area where the food is located with an electrical wire connected to it, releases the dog with the command “Walk!”, and he himself walks in the direction of the place where the food is located. If the dog tries to take the food, it receives an electric shock and throws the food out of its mouth.

This exercise is repeated if necessary. Only an experienced instructor can instill the skill of refusing food using electric current, using a working current of 0.05 A and a voltage of no more than 16 V for the exercise. Such parameters are quite safe for the dog.

Teaching a dog to fetch objects (command “Fetch!”)

The dog also needs the skill of fetching. He keeps her in working shape. For fetching exercises, a wooden blank made in the form of a dumbbell or a round wooden stick with a length of 20–30 cm and a diameter of 3–4 cm is used.

By waving the tray in front of the dog and giving the command “Fetch!”, the trainer encourages the dog to grab the tray and rewards it for this. The dog grabs the tray and holds it in its mouth. The trainer takes one end of the tray and tries to pull it towards him, but the dog holds it even tighter.

After making sure that the dog is holding the tray tightly, the trainer gives the command “Give!” and takes it from the dog. This may not always work with our breed, since bulldogs and bull terriers perceive taking away a stick as a fun game and begin to pull the object towards themselves with excitement. If the dog again does not give up the tray, he is given a new command “Near!” and do a short jog of 10–15 m with the dog holding a tray in its teeth. Then the trainer stops and, giving the command “Give!”, takes the tray from the dog. A dog that is persistent is shown a treat, and as soon as it gives up the object, the treat is given to it.

When the dog begins to confidently grab the object, it is thrown 2 - 3 m to the side or forward. Having given the command “Fetch!”, the trainer and the dog run to the thrown object. If the dog takes the object, you need to immediately reward its action and call it to you.

When the dog approaches the trainer and brings the object, at the command “Give!” you need to take it away, and reward the dog’s action with a treat. The dog should not be allowed to throw an object out of its mouth when approaching the trainer. You need to have time to pick up the item. Sometimes dogs, running up to an object, do not take it into their mouths. In such cases, the object is “revitalized,” that is, it is thrown to the side with a foot or hand, causing a desire to grab it.

In the future, training is complicated by introducing elements of endurance in the process of developing a skill. The dog is seated at the foot and sent after the thrown object with the command “Fetch!” after a short delay, or throw objects in different directions and at different distances, etc.

The dog is called to you, walking around the trainer and sitting down near his left leg, and only then is the retrieving object taken away. The dog is taught to do this this way: the trainer gradually increases the distance from the dog to the objects, holds for 5 - 7 seconds and gives the command “Fetch!” to the dog sitting at his left leg, making a gesture in the direction of the thrown object.

When the dog runs up to him with an object, he must give it the command “Near!”, thereby forcing him to go around him from behind and sit at his left leg, holding the object in his mouth. After a short pause, the trainer gives the command “Give!” and takes the object from the dog. The incorrect behavior of the trainer is as follows: allowing the dog to play with the retrieving object and chew it, forcing the dog to hold the object in its mouth for a long time, using the same objects when retrieving, throwing the object too far in the first stage of training, which is why The dog throws an object out of its mouth.

To develop a skill, there are several ways in which conditioned stimuli include a treat, a retrieval object, a stranger, or a trainer walking away from a leashed dog.

When practicing a conditioned reflex to a treat, the dog is seated in front of you, lowering the leash to the ground and stepping on it with your foot.

Take a treat in your right hand and wave it over the dog’s head until it barks. At the same time, the command “Voice!” is given.

At first, the dog will try to jump up and get the treat silently, and when he realizes that he cannot do this, he will bark out of excitement. The trainer immediately gives her the treat and rewards her with the command “Good!”

The dog is excited by the sight of the fetch object, throwing it so that it sees it and cannot take it. The command “Aport!” The trainer encourages the dog to take the object, but since the dog cannot reach it, it becomes agitated and begins to bark.

The trainer holds the dog on a short leash, an assistant comes up to him and begins to tease the dog, which gets excited and begins to bark.

The next time the assistant appears, the trainer gives the command “Voice!” and with active barking, rewards the dog with a treat.

Typical mistakes of the trainer are: untimely giving of treats, sharp prohibition of barking in a voice with rude intonation, encouragement of barking for no reason, giving the command “Voice!” after the dog has already barked.

Returning the dog to its place (command “Place!”)

This is a necessary and very useful skill. Often the owners put the wrong meaning into this team. The dog is sent to a place for the sole purpose of not being on the sofa or in the kitchen, and meanwhile the command must be developed to protect some thing.

The skill must be practiced after the dog has mastered the command “Lie down!” After putting the dog down, leave something near it. The trainer moves away from the thing at a distance of 5 - 7 m and calls the dog with the command “Come to me!”

The dog obeys the command and is rewarded. After a short delay, the trainer makes a gesture with his right hand, pointing the dog towards the thing (place), gives the command “Place!” and with a slight tug of the leash he returns her to the place where his thing lies, lays her down and encourages her.

Then the exercise is complicated: the leash is unfastened and the distance between the trainer and the dog is increased to 10 - 20 - 30 m. The dog should lie down no more than 1 m from the left item.

Typical mistakes of a trainer: frequent commands “Place!” while the dog is moving, long exposures in the first period of training, rewarding the dog if it takes a lying position too far from the place.

Teaching a dog to swim

Swimming is beneficial for all dogs, especially hunting dogs. However, there are also those who are afraid of water, oddly enough. What to do in such cases?

The place for learning to swim is chosen on the sloping shore of a reservoir. It should be shallow and with a quiet current. The dog must follow its owner into the water on its own, without any coercion.

You cannot drag her into the water on a leash or throw her from a boat. Dogs that go into the water themselves quickly learn to swim without any human intervention. Teaching a dog to swim in the cold season and in fast-flowing rivers, forcibly sending a dog into the water when it is tired are unacceptable actions.

Accustoming a dog to gunshots and strong sound and light stimuli

These skills are essential for all dogs. This is especially true during public holidays. It often happens that a dog, frightened by the explosion of pyrotechnic products, runs home without paying any attention to the owner. Otherwise, you can get hit by a car, and it won’t take long to get lost in a big city.

It is best to accustom dogs to gunshots and other strong light and sound stimuli during puppyhood (from 5 to 6 months). Training is carried out during walks, and this is done very carefully so that the strength of the stimuli increases gradually, and not immediately, so as not to cause depression in the animal’s state, leading to cowardice.

To accustom your dog to the sounds of explosions, it is best to walk him on a leash in the area of ​​the shooting range, gradually approaching it. The dog's excitement from the sound of a shot is drowned out by play, treats and stroking. In a kennel environment, shots from a hunting rifle, small-caliber rifle or starting pistol are fired by an assistant trainer. At first he shoots at a distance, then (as the dog gets used to it) the distance to the shooter decreases. It is better to start training during dog feeding hours. The trainer must carefully monitor its behavior, and if the dog, having heard the shots, shows anxiety, he must gently calm it down, pet it and give it a treat, and play with it. Gradually (over several sessions) the distance from the dog to the shooting assistant is increased to 15 - 20 m. The sounds and flashes of shots in the dark have a strong impact on the dog. In the evenings, training to shoot is carried out at a distance of 200 - 300 m from the dog, gradually reducing it. Typical mistakes: violation of the training sequence, mechanical impact on the dog at the moment of fright, strong, close and frequent explosions or shots near the dog.

Here is some information about the general training course. I hope that you have understood the basic principles and patterns of the development of a conditioned reflex, the development of a skill, and have learned the basic techniques and methods of training. Well, then we wish you good luck!