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Popularity of decorative rats care and. Decorative rats. Decorative rat as a pet

The decorative rat is a mammal of the mouse family (order of rodents). The decorative rat is a rather interesting animal, smart, cheerful and intelligent. They can be affectionate and highly trainable, so interacting with a kitten rat will be a lot of fun.

Decorative rats come in many varieties and colors.

How to choose a decorative rat?

When choosing a decorative rat, first of all pay attention to how it looks. A healthy rat is inquisitive and nimble, but at the same time calm. The coat should be smooth and shiny, the eyes and nose should be free of discharge. Do not pick up a rat that is sneezing or making gurgling noises.

It is better to take a decorative rat at the age of 4 weeks or older.

If you have other rats living with you, do not forget that the new “guest” must spend at least 10 days in quarantine - preferably in another room.

Never leave two unfamiliar adult rats unattended - they can injure and even kill each other.

First of all, to keep a decorative rat it is necessary to equip an “apartment”.

Aquariums, and especially glass jars, are not a suitable option, since they contain high air humidity and the animal will quickly die.

Another unsuccessful option is a bird cage with a wooden frame: wood does not tolerate urine well, and besides, rats happily chew it, so such a cage will quickly become unusable.

Minimum cage size for 1 decorative rat: 40x60x40 cm. However, if the rat is kept in a cage, it must walk every day!

In the photo: decorative rat. Photo: bluecross.org.uk

Remove the cage as it gets dirty.

A good bedding option for a decorative rat’s cage is cat litter. However, you can only use cellulose, straw or wood filler, but in no case mineral or silica gel, clumping ones. You can use sawdust from trees (deciduous trees only!), but they retain odor less well and get dirty faster. Do not use cotton wool, newspapers or fabric for bedding.

A cage for a decorative rat should have feeders and a drinking bowl. Water must be constantly available, so the best drinking bowl option is an automatic nipple drinker.

Remember that animals of different sexes cannot be kept in the same cage - they will constantly reproduce.

The cage should be located away from the window and where it is not exposed to direct sunlight - decorative rats are afraid of overheating and drafts. There is also no place for a cage with a rat in the kitchen - combustion products cause respiratory diseases.

Caring for decorative rats

As a rule, decorative rats take care of their fur themselves, but if necessary, they can be washed using baby or special animal shampoo. Remember to dry your rat thoroughly after bathing!

Caring for a rat is unthinkable without regular communication, because rats are social animals and get bored and waste away alone. If you have a rat living alone, you need to talk to it every day, let it out of the cage, play with it, and train it.

Remember, however, that walking a decorative rat should be safe. Make sure it doesn't reach wires, sharp objects, medications, or poisonous plants.

In the photo: decorative rat. Photo: buzzfeed.com

What to feed a decorative rat?

The decorative rat is an omnivore, but this does not mean that it can be fed with table scraps.

You should not feed your rat the following foods:

  • Sweet.
  • Roast.
  • Smoked.
  • Very salty.
  • Spices.
  • Pickled.
  • Alcohol and carbonated drinks.
  • Chocolate and everything containing it.
  • The following vegetables are raw: potatoes, sorrel, cabbage, spinach.
  • Fresh pastries and bread.

What to feed a decorative rat? A grain mixture for rats and water should be available at all times. The water is changed daily.

The food for a decorative rat is renewed 2 times a day (for pregnant females - 3-4 times a day).

The rat can also be given boiled meat, porridge in water, vegetables (raw and cooked), fruits, dairy products, crackers, nuts, lettuce and dandelion leaves.

Juices can cause allergies in rats.

How long do house rats live?

The average lifespan of a decorative rat is about 2 – 2.5 years. And how long decorative rats live depends on proper maintenance and care, including disease prevention.

In the photo: decorative rat. Photo: instructables.com

Remember that the increased metabolism of decorative rats is the reason that vital processes occur quickly, and if the animal is not helped in time, the consequences will be sad.

Signs that should make you take your rat to the vet as soon as possible:

  • Refusal to eat.
  • Sneezing.
  • Whistling and wheezing when breathing.
  • A red pigment (profirin) is released from the eyes and nose.
  • Dirty fur under the tail.
  • Hair loss.
  • Sores or scratches, bald spots.
  • Edema and tumors.
  • Bleeding.
  • Apathy and lethargy.

The rat is the most intelligent animal in the rodent world. Probably, this fact explains the popularity of cheerful and active rats among people of all ages. Even a child can take care of a pet rat, and the loyalty and good nature of rodents will become the key to true friendship.

This animal will bring a lot of joy with its presence in the house, because the rodent has quite a lot of advantages:

  1. Rats have a good memory, they quickly get used to their owners and recognize them. They are highly trainable and are able to follow simple commands. These rodents remember their name and respond to nicknames.
  2. These pets are absolutely harmless. Raised from a young age, they become so accustomed to their owner and his family that they are simply unable to bite or otherwise show aggression towards a person.
  3. Cleanliness. When the cage is regularly cleaned, rats do not smell at all.

The rules for caring for these animals are not complicated and consist of timely cleaning of the cage, proper feeding and communication with the animal.

1. Particular attention should be paid to choosing a home for the rat. The cage in which it will live should not be huge, but even a small animal will be cramped. In addition, it must be equipped with all the necessary equipment: a feeder, a nipple drinker, a house, so that the rodent is comfortable in its home.

Cage equipment:

  • The rat's cage must contain a house and a hammock, a drinking bowl (preferably a nipple one), and a feeder (hanging or stable floor-mounted).
  • Filler – wood pellets for rodents or sawdust. Rats will choose their own place for the toilet. By regularly changing the litter in this corner, you can easily maintain the cleanliness of your rat’s home.

2. Feeding. It is important to remember that human food is not suitable for rodents. Rats are remarkably trainable and quickly get used to being fed at the same time. The basis of rodent nutrition is dry food consisting of different types of cereals. It must be supplemented with soft and wet food: greens, pieces of apple, carrot, pumpkin. Rats are omnivores and will not refuse unsalted porridge on water. Millet and buckwheat porridges are especially suitable for animal nutrition. Of course, this food does not need to be given often - once a week is enough. Many zoologists advise occasionally adding protein foods to the animal’s diet: low-fat unsweetened cottage cheese, a piece of boiled chicken or white fish. Such supplements will be necessary for pregnant, lactating or weakened animals. It is better to remove excess food, especially wet food.

3. Bathing the rat and grooming it. Rats are clean and maintain cleanliness themselves, without human intervention. However, it has been observed that the hairless sphinx rat is sometimes delighted by a bath of warm water. Of course, such a procedure must be carried out in a small container. After bathing, the rat must be thoroughly dried and warmed.

4. Walking. Some hobbyists keep rodents free-range, which is not always convenient. Rats will willingly try the wires of equipment and the leg of a chair. They may also chew on houseplants or dog food. Therefore, the rodent's exercise must be controlled by the owner.

5. Caring for pregnant animals. How to care for a decorative rat if it is expecting offspring? Pregnant and lactating females should be separated from males. In addition to dry food, their diet should contain vitamins, vegetables, fruits and protein foods (cottage cheese, boiled chicken or fish).

6. Caring for sick animals. How to care for a pet rat if it gets sick? First of all, you need to contact a veterinarian. By following its instructions, you should ensure rest and adequate nutrition for your pet.

Caring for a rat is not burdensome, and cannot be compared with the joy this animal gives!

There is no need to bathe/wash rats(moreover, it is harmful for rats!), but despite this, often rat owners by washing the rat want to get rid of what they consider to be unaesthetic aspects such as an unpleasant odor emanating from the animal, browning of fur, porphyrin stains on the face or back, scratching , dandruff, matted or dirty fur.

Possible consequences of swimming:

  • Rats are prone to respiratory infections, i.e. trite - they catch cold easily. And if in humans a cold most often goes away on its own, then in rats such respiratory diseases often end sadly: either chronic rhinitis or pneumonia, which is fatal. Is your “bath procedure” worth your pet’s long-term antibiotic treatment?
  • Water getting into rat ears leads to otitis media. Otitis is often asymptomatic and sometimes the owner notices that something is wrong when it is already too late. But even if otitis is noticeable and you react quickly enough, keep in mind that otitis in rats is very difficult to treat, long, difficult and causes great suffering to the animal.
  • In addition, washing violates the natural protection of the skin and coat. If for some reason the body cannot compensate for the lost protection by producing more sebum, then the skin becomes dry and sensitive, it may begin to itch, and the hair will become thin and brittle, “husked.”
  • Washing is always stressful for a rat, which leads to a weakening of the immune system and in itself “opens the door” to various diseases, infections, neuroses, etc.

If washing cannot be avoided, for example, a rat has gotten dirty in a harmful substance or you want to prepare your pet for an exhibition, then everything is quite simple:

  • You will need: two towels, two bathtubs/basins and rodent shampoo or just mild baby shampoo.
  • Have 2 towels at an accessible distance. Pour warm water into both baths, about 5 centimeters. Place a rat in one of them. Gently wet the rat's fur, avoiding getting any water on the rat's face.
  • Apply a small amount of shampoo to the coat and massage it gently into the coat. No need to create a lot of foam! Avoid getting foam into the animal's ears and eyes.
  • Rinse the shampoo out of the fur by scooping up the water with your hand.
  • Transfer the rat to another bath. Carefully rinse any remaining shampoo from the coat with clean water; it should not remain on the coat/skin!
  • Use a towel to wipe the surface of the rat's fur, this will help get rid of excess water. Wrap the rat in a second dry towel. Keep it wrapped up until it is at least partially dry. After this, it makes sense to let the rat out for a walk under a blanket or blanket - this will reduce the risk of catching a cold.

If the substance that gets on the rat’s fur is very dangerous and delay can cause harm to the animal, then simply turn on warm water and rinse the rat’s fur directly under running water. Then dry the rat's fur and be sure to show your pet to the veterinarian!

Author VaKa
I thank Elena Snezhurova aka Malyavka for her help in writing the article.

Grooming

The rat takes care of its own fur. And if she lives in a group, which is desirable, then her “flockmates” also help her do this - this is called mutual grooming and serves to strengthen social ties between representatives of the same flock. If the rat is healthy and takes care of itself, then there is no need to help it with grooming; it can handle it on its own. Problems usually arise in weakened, old animals that find it difficult to reach, for example, the back) and in this case they will need your help.

Grooming your rat's fur with the least amount of stress and intervention consists of two parts:

  • Combing the wool. Scratching improves blood circulation in the skin and removes dead particles from it. A new, unused toothbrush with soft bristles is best for this. It’s most convenient to remove the long handle (since rats don’t really like a strange tool with a long handle and they often attack a “full-fledged” toothbrush) and scratch the rat, holding the head of the toothbrush with your thumb and forefinger (i.e., as if hiding it between the fingers). During the procedure, a calm tame rat can be placed on your lap, and independent rats can be scratched when they are sleeping or busy with a treat, then this procedure will not cause them stress and will be calm.
  • Cleaning the wool. There is no need to wash the rat and risk its health for this! It is enough to wet a cotton pad and gently wipe the animal’s fur with the damp pad. After the procedure, the rat must be wiped dry.
Author VaKa

Ear care

Rat ears do not require any special care, because... healthy and young rats can clean their ears quite well on their own. Therefore, you don’t need to clean your ears just like that with cotton swabs or other devices - they can easily injure the delicate skin, which can be very painful for the rat, and there is simply no point in using special ear care drops in this case.

Special care for the ears is required only when the rat has become old, weak and can no longer cope with this procedure on its own. Only then does it make sense to instill special drops, and after that neat Cleaning with cotton swabs, but not deep cleaning.

note the fact that “dirt” in the ears and/or an unpleasant odor are not signs of dirty ears, but a reason to go to the veterinarian and treat the rat, because, most likely, it has otitis media.

Author VaKa

Nail trimming

Trimming rats' claws is a cosmetic procedure that is usually not a mandatory part of rat care. However, there are a number of situations in which the rat will still need to perform it.

When does a rat need to have its nails trimmed?

  • Most rats keep their claws in order by not allowing them to grow too long. However, it happens that in sedentary, sick, old or simply too lazy animals, the claws outgrow the normal size so much that they bend, threatening to stick into the pad of the finger, and, in addition, cling to hammocks and other textile equipment of the cage and walk. This can lead to the rat getting caught and tearing out a claw or dislocating a paw. Of course, this cannot be allowed.
  • After operations, as well as in the presence of wounds or scratches, rats have their claws trimmed to prevent sharp claws from injuring the wound or unraveling the stitches.
  • In addition, rats' claws are trimmed for aesthetic purposes - for example, before exhibitions, or so that sharp claws do not leave scratches on the arms and shoulders of their owners. You can also “demilitarize” the flock before adding newcomers, in order to deprive them of additional “weapons” in the event of a showdown, and to avoid scratched skin of the new one.

It is convenient to trim claws with the following tools:

  • A special nail clipper for cats of the smallest size. According to rat breeders, this is the most convenient.
  • Regular nail clippers or nail clippers. Nail scissors are inconvenient to use for this purpose, because... with their help, the claw is cut and not bitten off, which complicates the procedure - the scissors will simply slide off. The tools, of course, should be as sharp as possible so as not to delay the process and not split the claw.

The vast majority of rats will not like this idea. Therefore, if the pet does not want to sit quietly, breaks out and takes away its paws, it is more advisable to carry out the haircut together - the assistant will hold the rat while the owner deals with the overgrown claws. The haircut process itself is simple, but requires care and precision, because... The rat's claws and fingers are very small. You need to fix the paw with one hand, and with the other, cut off the very tip - the transparent part of the claw. You can’t cut further - the living part of the claw begins, with blood vessels and nerves. If you overdid it and started bleeding, keep hydrogen peroxide on hand. After trimming, if the cut is crooked, very sharp or split, the claw can be processed with a nail file.

Author Zatrian

Tail cleaning

The tail is a very important and undoubtedly wonderful part of every rat. However, for the most part, the rats themselves do not think about this, and therefore do not particularly monitor its appearance. Little rats have pink, clean tails, but the older the animal, the dirtier its tail tends to be. Some rats do clean their tails themselves, but this is the exception rather than the rule. A dirty tail does not cause any inconvenience to the rat, unlike its owner, hurting his sense of beauty. In addition, at a rat show, points are deducted from an animal for having a dirty tail.

Overall, there are only two good reasons reasons why it is worth subjecting a rat to the procedure of cleaning its tail:

  • Upcoming exhibition. The tail is cleaned to avoid underestimation.
  • Hot weather. The main heat exchange in rats occurs through the tail. If it is completely covered with dirt, heat exchange will be difficult, which in some cases can even lead to overheating of the body.

How to do it right:

  • For washing you will need a soft toothbrush, baby soap and warm (not hot) water.
  • First, you need to “soak” the tail in soapy water. If the rat takes this calmly, you can simply immerse the tail in a container of water; if not, you should slowly soak it by wiping it with a soapy, wet cotton pad.
  • After you have achieved the desired result in one way or another, you need to take a toothbrush and carefully, without strong pressure, brush your tail from the base to the tip, i.e. in the direction of scale growth, in no case against it! Do not rub the tail with force - you can damage and tear off the scales. When cleaning, do not hold the rat by the tip of its tail! Just a little effort is enough for the skin to simply peel off like a stocking from a leg. In this case, you will have to run to the veterinary clinic, and not to the exhibition.
  • The cleaned tail is thoroughly rinsed with clean water and dried with a towel. After washing, you can lubricate it with baby cream, because... soap dries out the skin.
  • If the rat's tail is very dirty, do not try to wash it at once - it won't work anyway, you will only injure it if you try too hard when cleaning. Just repeat the procedure every other day or two, and gradually the tail will wash off.

It is worth remembering that the degree of contamination of the tail is closely related to the conditions of detention. In a small, neglected cage that is rarely cleaned, rats' tails get dirty much faster.

It is necessary to understand that a rat, albeit a decorative one, is a very ordinary rodent. That is why she will chew everything in the house that seems edible to her. In addition, rat walks around are accompanied not only by damage to certain things, but also by marking their territory. Fortunately, the liquid that is used for this does not have and is released in negligible quantities. In any case, when walking around the house, you need to keep an eye on the animal.

Temperature. The ambient temperature should not be lower than 18°C, but not higher than 25°C, and the air humidity should be from 50% to 60%. This temperature regime is the most comfortable for the rodent. Violation of these norms can lead to the occurrence of certain colds in the animal. That is why the cage should not be placed in a draft or in direct sunlight.

Cell. Particular attention must be paid to the cage, which will be the “house” for the rodent. The cage should be spacious, equipped with ladders and various toys necessary for a decorative rat, which is a fairly active animal. The best choice would be a two-story cage that allows you to freely climb around your home.

In the cage it is necessary to place a drinking bowl (water source), a ladder leading to the second floor, and, of course, food bowls. Some people buy a plastic wheel for their rats, put it in their cage, and then are surprised that their animal ignores it. Everything is very simple! Running in such wheels is the prerogative, but not of decorative rats. Since rats are rodents that do not particularly like daylight, you can install a special house in the cage. But this is optional. As mentioned above, the cage should not be placed in a draft or in the sun. There is also nothing for the rat “house” near the battery - dry air is harmful to the animal.

Litter. Do not use sawdust or other wood shavings as bedding. Fine sawdust used as bedding can get into the rodent's eyes, cause allergies, or even irritate the rat's skin. For bedding, it is better to use white paper or a piece of natural fabric.

Feed. Decorative rats should be fed a variety of foods: oats, wheat, barley. It is also necessary to take care of microelements and vitamins. You need to add boiled kidneys, heart and liver to the animal’s diet. Hazelnuts, pine nuts, and chicken bones are suitable for grinding teeth. In addition, rats love berries and fruits.

Baby rats should be fed up to 4 times in one day, while adult rats need to eat 2 times a day. There is no need to spoil the rodent's stomach with various fatty and fried foods, as well as cabbage and chocolate.

Cleaning the cage. You need to clean the cage at least once a week! The fact is that rats prefer their own smell, so you shouldn’t scare them by cleaning the cage until it shines. During cleaning, the bedding is changed and all bowls are sanitized. It is recommended to completely disinfect the cage once a month. The water in the drinking bowl needs to be changed every day, as it can quickly become dirty.

Most of us shudder at the words “house rats”: we immediately think of rather large rodent pests that can not only cause damage to property, but also infect them with diseases. But in fact, these animals can be very interesting pets. There are different breeds of rats, but absolutely all of them are distinguished by their amazing intelligence, speed of learning and even good training abilities. Let's get to know them from this side. And at the same time we will learn how to care for a pet rat.

Rat for home keeping: features, types, maintenance

So, a tame rat is not at all the same as a wild one. Rodents very quickly become attached to humans, learn to recognize their owner, and most importantly, delight with interesting behavior and funny habits. There are a variety of breeds of domestic rats, the most popular are:

If you are interested in keeping a decorative rat, but do not know which breed to choose, choose based on appearance. Because almost everyone’s character is soft and friendly. Contrary to fears, the domestic rat almost never bites. To throw her out of balance and cause aggression, you need to try very hard. And yet, do not allow the child to torture the animal; explain that the animal can be petted, called affectionately, placed on the shoulder, but you should not hurt or frighten it.

For proper maintenance, you will definitely need special cages for rats. These dwellings are significantly different from bird dwellings. They are made in a horizontal section, low, but wide and elongated. In principle, it is not difficult to create a house for a rat with your own hands, but you will have to take into account the peculiarity of the pet. This is a rodent that can easily cope with any type of wood. That is why it is best to use transparent plastic or plexiglass, having previously made holes in it for ventilation.

House and accessories for your pet

Any breed of decorative rats needs a properly equipped home. Although this is a pet, it leads a certain way of life, which is the owner’s primary task to ensure. Improperly organized maintenance and care can lead to illness and then death of a cute rodent. This is why it is so important to choose cages for decorative rats.

As mentioned above, the houses are horizontally oriented, low, but quite spacious. Rodents lead an active lifestyle, so they need space. There must be some kind of shelter that resembles a mink. Your animal will hide there. Without such a “hiding place” the animal’s routine may be disrupted.

Domestic rats should be often handled, talked to, and stroked. These are sociable animals, and very smart and good-natured. They get used to hands quickly, they like to sit on your shoulder and hide in your bosom. In the warm season, pets can be taken outside; for this, buy a separate small cage. You should avoid windy or damp weather: the animal may catch a cold. To the question of whether it is worth bathing the animal, the answer is ambiguous. On the one hand, decorative rats are not averse to taking a dip in cool water (though not all of them), on the other hand, they get sick easily. That is why, in the hot season, some breeders recommend installing a small bath so that the rodent can take a bath himself. There is no need to wash it specifically.

If you want to adhere to proper care for pet rats, purchase other necessary accessories with which you need to furnish your pet’s “apartment”. This:

Now you know the basic principles of organizing proper care for a decorative rat. However, there are some nuances. It is important to know them in order to maximize the lifespan of your cute rodent. They involve feeding decorative rats and recognizing their diseases. Let's talk about this.

How to feed a rat correctly

In general, the rat, although a rodent, does not have a narrow food specialization. In nature, she eats almost everything she finds. These can be various fruits, grains, vegetables, as well as insects, meat, even dairy products. Food for rats living at home should contain approximately the same ingredients.

To get started, you should buy store-bought dry rations. They consist of a variety of grains, pieces of dried vegetables, and vitamin granules. This diet is sufficient, but breeders strongly recommend adding fresh plant products - carrots, apples, zucchini, etc. Proper management of a rat involves selecting the ideal diet. It is based on the individual characteristics of each animal. Periodically give a boiled egg (no more than once a week), meat, cheese or sour cream, and crackers. Completely eliminate pickles, sweet foods, smoked foods, raw cabbage and potatoes, and chocolate. The lifespan of rats is already not long; there is no need to reduce it further.

By the way, about age. How long do pet rats live? Not so long: on average 2-3 years, some centenarians can live up to 5-7, but this happens extremely rarely. Rodents have an accelerated metabolism, normal body temperature is 38.5-39.5 degrees Celsius. Metabolic processes proceed at incredible speed and literally “burn” the small animal. This causes a short life expectancy.

Now a few words about how to feed a rat. She should be given food twice a day, the approximate amount is 30g, but again the figure is arbitrary. Look at the external condition. A properly fed animal is nimble, does not suffer from indigestion, and does not have a bloated belly. Drinking regime is no less important. At home, the rat should have constant access to clean water. Then she will not get sick and will be able to live longer.

What diseases do domestic rodents suffer from?

We have all heard that rat diseases are dangerous to humans. Fortunately, we are talking mainly about wild representatives. Speaking about decorative pet rats, there is no need to fear anything terrible. Rats at a young age are vaccinated against possible diseases, in particular, against the most dangerous - rabies. A veterinarian's note is made about this. You can also go to a specialist yourself so that he can examine and vaccinate the animal.

According to breeders, a person bitten by a decorative rat risks practically nothing. This is a very clean animal, which, unlike its wild relatives, spends its entire life in sterile conditions: a cage, an apartment, the hands of its owner. In general, the pet is not able to bite; it is a peace-loving creature. However, children can sometimes drive him to aggression. Therefore, make sure you treat your pet kindly.

Even if trouble has occurred, there is no need to worry about diseases such as blood poisoning, mycoplasmosis, tetanus, or rabies. Often a simple treatment of the wound is enough. If you are worried and don’t know what to do, visit a doctor. Tell us that your pet rat bit you and you're worried about the consequences. If necessary, get tested.

A rat disease such as mycoplasmosis deserves a separate discussion. This is an infectious disease, the carrier of which is almost every rodent. Is it true. As long as the immune system is young and healthy, there are no problems. Mycoplasmosis occurs only in weakened or elderly animals. However, if one rat gets infected, all the others can get sick. Unfortunately, mycoplasmosis often leads to the death of a pet. And since humans are also carriers, be attentive to your pets. Main signs of the disease:

  1. Sneezing. The very first alarming symptom.
  2. Difficulty breathing, wheezing.
  3. Loss of appetite and normal activity;
  4. The coat becomes dull, it begins to mat and looks untidy;
  5. Characteristic discharge from the eyes.

Mycoplasmosis develops quickly, leads to inflammatory processes in the internal organs and in an advanced stage kills the rat. This cannot be done without the help of a specialist.

Finally, another problem that may arise when dealing with rats is an allergic reaction. Skin itching appears and the person begins to itch. Unfortunately, you can only get rid of it by giving your pet away. That is why people prone to allergies are not recommended to have breeds like Double Rex, which have thick, long hair. Although, the double rat or dumbo rex is very attractive in appearance. At the first symptoms of an allergy, we advise you to consult a doctor and find out why it is itching.

You can read about how to train a rat in specialized literature. Moreover, it doesn’t matter much whether it’s a boy or a girl, although many prefer females. Probably because males are sometimes capable of more aggressive behavioral reactions. When deciding what to name your rat, choose a short and smooth-sounding nickname. Again, many rodents get used to it and even respond.

So, now you know almost everything about these cute pets: what rats eat, how to care for a rat, whether it can be bathed, what diseases there are in pet rats, and what cages for pet rats should be like. Get yourself such an interesting friend, and you will understand: these are not only dangerous household pests.