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Introduction

What prompted me to start writing this manual were numerous questions: “How is this done?” from acquaintances and friends.
It would seem that answering such a question is as simple as shelling pears: just take it and show it. Well, I showed it. I don't feel sorry, look at your health. And along the way, he also explained how this harness is knitted, why such a knot is appropriate here, and why all this is needed in general.
But, as it turned out, demonstrations and explanations are completely insufficient, because when I show, people look not at the technique, not at the materials, not at the location of the units, but at everything at once. Because it’s beautiful for them to look at. And the results of the demonstration turn out to be “Cool!”, “We want that too!” and “How is this done anyway?”
In short, I thought and thought and decided to write a guide, not a guide, but at least a collection of tips. So that anyone can look into it when something doesn’t work out for him, and make sure that he’s not the only one who doesn’t succeed. And that he is not the only one who is cross-armed, or crooked-eyed, or generally mentally retarded. I won’t tell you what epithets I rewarded myself with while I was learning to tie. Let them remain my secret and protected by my copyright, and you can invent them for yourself.

So let's get started.
What are we even talking about here?
If you are reading these lines, then most likely you have an idea of ​​what bondage is. And also about what Japanese bondage is, or shibari. If the words “bondage” and “shibari” are unfamiliar to you, then it is better to close this manual. It will teach you bad things and plunge you into the perverted abyss of sadomasochism.
Yes, yes, exactly sadomasochism. Because bondage is a sadomasochistic practice. Bondage refers to restriction of mobility in general and tying up in particular. Depending on how mobility is limited, bondage is divided into steel bondage and rope bondage.
Steel bondage (from English. steel-bondage) - these are handcuffs, shackles, chains, cages and other cute paraphernalia of penitentiary institutions.
Rope bondage (from rope-bondage), or rope bondage, is carried out, as the name implies, with the help of ropes. Or some rope. Or ropes, or laces, or bandages, or decorative ribbons. In a word, with the help of such things that can be tied into knots, knots and knots.
There is also bondage using stocks (the kind of wood that Uncle Tom used in his hut), or using cling film, or using plaster. These are all also types of bondage, since all these entertainments are associated with limited mobility. They are called differently, but this is not important in this tutorial. Let someone who directly practices them tell you about them. He will do much better than me.
And further. Restricting one's mobility through a blow to the head is not bondage. This is, at best, hooliganism, and at worst, causing grievous bodily harm.

In general, what bondage is has become clear. At least that's what I hope. What is shibari?
Shibari is the proper name for one of the subtypes of rope bondage. This name came from Japan, where, in fact, this type of bondage originates. In other words, shibari is bondage in Japanese.
In order to knit shibari, it is not at all necessary to speak Japanese, or practice bondage in a kimono, or make narrow eyes with your fingers, or wear a bandage with the hieroglyph “zeal” on your forehead. Japanese bondage differs from um... how should I say... from European bondage in several very characteristic features.

The first feature is that Japanese bondage is very decorative. It doesn’t matter whether you tie up a person in order to perform some perverted actions on him, or in order to straighten his posture, or so that he lies beautifully in the corner, creating your interior. Regardless of the purpose of tying, shibari looks decorative. Or, to put it really crudely, shibari looks very neat.
Comparing examples of shibari and European bondage, one gets the impression that the European was in a hurry to get somewhere. The rope is wound somehow, the limbs are tied to anything, and in general everything looks like it was done while running between the office and the gym. The European is not interested in how he connects. He wonders why he is doing this, why he is doing this, and how long it will all take, because he has an important meeting to attend any minute.
The Japanese are in no hurry. It just so happens that this is generally a characteristic Japanese trait. The Japanese are always interested in how exactly he does this or that thing. Therefore, even the Japanese’s tied shoelaces look like professional design work. And if you consider that since ancient times the Japanese have used laces, ropes and ties wherever possible: In general, you can imagine what exactly the Japanese can do with tying. Looking at Japanese bondage, it is clear that the person who knitted these bindings put not only his hands and imagination into the work, but also a remarkable aesthetic sense. It is clear that this man was in no hurry. That every turn was placed deliberately, that not a single knot was tied just like that.
However, it is quite possible that I am idealizing the Japanese. I’m probably even idealizing. After all, it can’t be that they know some Great Secret that is inaccessible to us, right? In any case, we will try to figure out this Great Mystery and learn to tie as aesthetically, slowly and deliberately as the true sons of Yamato.

The second feature of Japanese bondage is formalized somewhat more clearly. This is no longer an ephemeral aesthetics or a realm of subjective sensations. The second feature is that in Japanese bondage a person becomes attached to himself.
Do you know what I mean?
In Japanese bondage, you won't see cross-bondage on the bed, with each arm and leg tied to a different corner. In shibari, a person is not stretched in different directions, but, on the contrary, gathered into a heap. The arms and legs are fixed first to each other, and then to the torso. Or, if there are reasons to leave the legs separately (and such reasons, you see, sometimes arise), then only the arms are tied to each other, but the legs are still fixed to the torso in one way or another. Of course, this rule does not always work, but in the vast majority of cases. Do you know why? Try to guess: the clue is hidden in this paragraph.
Did you guess it? That's right: the Japanese don't have beds. More precisely, it already exists now, but the traditions from which shibari was born developed long before Japan began to Europeanize.
Traditional Japanese interiors, by our standards, are very sparse and at the same time very functional. What can you tie a person to in a room that has only walls, screens, a small table, mats, and a portable brazier? To nothing. Only to yourself. And it’s the same outside the living space. Why bother with some kind of poles when you can tie your hands behind your back, and tie your legs folded cross-legged at the ankles, for example, to a belt? All you need is a good piece of rope. That's all.

The third feature of Japanese bondage echoes the first. Shibari bindings are always knitted in such a way as to emphasize the sexuality of the model. The harness may outline the genitals. Or stick out your chest. Or a person may be tied up in a deliberately erotic position. In any case, Japanese calling is characterized by the fact that, in addition to functionality and aesthetics, it is highly eroticized. Have you forgotten that shibari is erotic bondage? Oh yes. I haven't said this yet. So: shibari is erotic bondage. Make a special note in your notes: if the model does not excite you, then it is better to find another model. Although, perhaps, you will be the one who will be able to create an amazing erotic composition with the participation of a person to whom you are indifferent.
Maybe.
But I hope you will forgive me if I say that I have very little faith in this.

So how? Did I manage to give you the impression that shibari is very difficult, and generally not for average minds? I’ll tell you a secret: this is exactly what I was striving for. In this way I am trying to demonstrate to you my superiority. Because I'm a genius. And the art of Japanese bondage is accessible only to geniuses, while others should look at us with genuine admiration and respect. We must bow before us and give us praise, and give us all kinds of honors, and...

Do you think this is a joke?
You're right. It's a joke.
In fact, there is nothing particularly complicated about shibari. If you want and have some persistence, you can learn all this without any help. And even more so with benefits. I'll tell you a secret, I learned this way myself. Completely on my own, looking at photos posted on the Internet from various bondage sites. Strictly speaking, what I do cannot be called shibari. I did not adopt any special traditions, I was not taught by the Masters of the Rope. But somehow it happened that I connect and people who see it call my work shibari. Perhaps I work in some special tradition, but I don’t know it myself. Moreover, if they suddenly tell me that my works are traditional, I will be no less surprised than Moliere’s hero who learned that he had been speaking in prose all his life. I simply copied the bindings that I saw in different places, and over time I learned to make my own. In short, my works cannot be called shibari, but it is difficult to call them anything else. Therefore, let's pretend that we are real Japanese, which means that whatever we twist with the help of ropes, it will be a real Japanese bondage. Do you agree? And for this, at the end of the manual, I will provide a list of Internet resources that helped me learn what I am going to tell you about.

If you haven't changed your mind yet, then...
Go!
(and waved his hand)

Rope bondage for beginners
Theory

In this section I will talk about safety precautions, ropes, why they are needed, and other similar things. I strongly recommend that you read this section before approaching a living person with a rope in your hands and a sparkle in your eyes.

Rope bondage for beginners
Ropes

The first, main, and, in general, the only tool of a bondage artist is a rope. Well, in fact, this is not the only tool. There are also hands, head and imagination. But we don’t choose our fantasy - it either exists or it doesn’t - but we are quite capable of choosing the rope that suits us personally.
By the way, a small remark to the side. From now on, I will refer to bondage artists not as bondage artists in general, but as those who do Japanese rope bondage in particular. Because it's more convenient.
So, I’ll try to tell you about ropes, what they are like, what they must be and what they should not be.

First, a little history. Apparently, people knew how to use ropes back in the Neolithic. In any case, in Finland, the most ancient nodes dating back to this period were discovered. I don’t know where and who kept them, and why no one unraveled them after so much time, but the fact remains a fact.
True, in those distant times there was no nylon, no nylon, or even Bolognese raincoats. That's why our ancestors used ropes made of natural materials. Made from hemp, flax, wool. In general, from everything that could be taken apart into long flexible fibers and then twisted or woven. Some even managed to make ropes from their own hair, as the Brothers Grimm authoritatively told us about. Of course, if our ancestors had been able to make monomolecular threads, then they would not have needed to weave or twist ropes.
But they couldn't.

Four conclusions can be drawn from all this.

Conclusion one: ropes can be made from synthetic materials and natural ones.
Conclusion two: ropes can be braided or twisted.
Conclusion three: a rope left to itself, once it is twisted or braided, can easily unwind or unravel.
Conclusion four: humanity did not originate from aliens, because otherwise we would have been using monomolecular threads long ago. Even in the Neolithic.

Natural materials are anything that can be collected, cut, peeled, or simply grown in nature. Something like: hemp, flax, wool, bast of some tree species, straw, cotton, even asbestos. Human imagination in relation to the use of various available materials is inexhaustible.
Synthetic materials are what current clothing is made from and, I personally suspect, some food. In any case, if you compare the taste of nylon rope and a bun from a standard railway lunch... However, I digress.
So, synthetic ropes are made mainly from nylon and polypropylene. It is not entirely clear why, with all the power of modern science and technology, only these two synthetic materials are used to make synthetic ropes. I don’t think that all other types go to railway canteens. Although you can expect anything from these railway workers.

Several important qualities for us (bondage artists) depend on the material from which the rope is made. We open our notes and write.
The three most important qualities, in my opinion, are strength, stretchability and slipperiness. That is, how much load the rope can withstand, how much it can stretch and how well it holds the knots.
Everything is clear with the load. I think few people will be happy if, at the most inopportune moment, your bottom, carefully tied to the wall, suddenly breaks out, without being able to substitute his fixed arms or legs. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully monitor the permissible load on the rope. When selling a rope, its breaking and stretching limits are always indicated. These are different types of strength. That is, the same rope can support a load under a static load, but if the same load is jerked, it will break. For us, tensile strength is more important, since the loads during bondage are static. But it’s still better to be safe than sorry and get ropes with high tensile and tensile strength. Don’t be lazy to ask the seller what load it can withstand.
In addition, you must always keep in mind that a rope made of natural material can change its properties over time. If not properly cared for, it can simply rot and tear with a slight tug.
Synthetic ropes are more durable and less sensitive to storage conditions. But. They have a couple of not very pleasant features. First of all, they stretch. This means that when working with synthetic rope, it will be difficult for you to control the degree of its tension. Secondly, synthetics do not hold knots very well. Under load, knots on synthetics tend to slip and come undone.
Natural ropes, on the contrary, do not have these disadvantages. They don’t stretch and the knots hold well, but they require some care. They are especially afraid of rotting, and therefore they must be thoroughly dried after exposure to water and stored in dry places. By the way, even if you are not inclined to maintain hygiene, it is still worth at least drying natural ropes thoroughly after the session. Because your model’s sweat is a liquid no worse than others, and even organic. Anyone who has seen an unwashed homeless person at least once knows what rotting organic matter can do. So it’s better to periodically put the ropes in the wash.
Natural ropes can also be further processed, which I will talk about in more detail a little later.

According to the method of making ropes, as I have already said, they are divided into braided and twisted. The difference between them is noticeable to the naked eye. Twisted ropes are made by twisting several strands, while braided ropes are made by interlacing. Traditionally, shibari uses twisted ropes made from natural materials, but this is not a dogma.
It cannot be said unequivocally that some important qualities of the rope depend on the manufacturing method. But, according to my observations, braided ropes often turn out to be less flexible than twisted ones. In fairness, it should be noted that I have never had ropes made in different ways from the same material. It so happened that the braided ropes that fell into my hands were synthetic, and the twisted ones were natural. Perhaps this is precisely the point.

Regardless of how the rope was made, it always strives to disassemble itself into its components in the same way. It unravels at the ends. To prevent this from happening, the ends must be processed. Even if you like shaggy tassels. We are learning how to tie, and not use furry tassels.
The ends can be treated in different ways to prevent self-dissolution. The easiest way in this regard is synthetics. It is enough to slightly melt the ends of a synthetic rope over a fire and they will no longer unravel. But it must be said that this method, although simple, still has a significant drawback: the melted synthetic becomes hard and with such a hard tip you can scratch your model. And not everyone likes this.
To avoid such sabotage, you can process the melted ends with a file, or you can do something completely different. If you decide to go with synthetics, then you can be consistent to the end and fix the ends not with fusible, but, for example, with tape. This is also a fairly simple method: just wrap the rope with tape in the place where you are going to cut it and cut right in the center of the wrap. As a result, you will have two ends secured with tape. This method is also convenient because, using tape of different colors, you can mark pieces of rope of different lengths. Later you will see that this is very convenient.

If you decide to give preference to natural materials, then adhesive tape will no longer work. And not at all for reasons of quality. The fact is that since we will be knitting shibari, and shibari is by definition aesthetic, we should take care of the unity of style in advance. So we will process natural ropes using the same natural methods. So far I know of only one good way to process the ends of natural rope. Sheathing.
If you've ever held a needle in your hands, the sheathing won't give you any trouble. Sew the rope through a couple of times, one and a half to two centimeters from the edge. This will be enough to secure the thread. Then wind the thread tightly, turn by turn, towards the end of the rope. A centimeter winding is quite enough. Sew the rope all the way through at the end of the wrap again, and then make two or three large stitches across the entire wrap. This will prevent it from unraveling. All.
This method is also convenient because, using multi-colored threads, you can mark your ropes.
Several times I heard that there are ways to braid the ends of ropes without resorting to additional means. But these methods are unknown to me. If anyone knows them and can teach them to me, I will be only glad.

I've already mentioned color coding twice. What is it for?
The fact is that shibari uses ropes of different lengths. For example, two to three meter lengths are convenient for tying arms and legs. And also, if somewhere you don’t have enough length of rope, you can add it with such a three-meter piece. Five or six three-meter sections on the farm will be quite enough. Or let there be seven or eight of them, so that there will certainly be more than enough for everything you come up with.
Pieces eight to twelve meters long are used for binding the chest and hips. Or for combined harnesses. You will need three or four such segments. And sections from twelve to fifteen meters are intended for harnesses covering the entire body. You only need a couple of them.
So, in order to select the piece you need from a tangled pile, it’s a good idea to mark the ropes with a color depending on their length.

There is another way out. You can not mark anything, but simply store the ropes in such a way that nothing gets tangled. It is convenient to fold short pieces in two to four times and tie them with a knot in the middle.
It is better to twist longer pieces into a ring and tie this ring at one of the ends, creating a loop through which it is convenient to hang such a twist on a hook, or on a nail, or on something else on which you will store your ropes.
Of course, if you are a very neat person, then no one will forbid you to mark the ropes and keep them in perfect order. This will be best since shibari requires precision. But, on the other hand, Zen teaches not to focus too much on form, giving preference to content. In other words, do whatever you want, as long as it helps you knit well.

Since we are talking about dimensions, it’s time to talk about the most common thicknesses used in shibari.
The most common rope thickness is six to eight millimeters. A thinner rope, firstly, looks rather pathetic, and, secondly, it simply cuts into the model’s body more strongly. Of course, if you set a goal to decorate your model with a mesh a la meat nut, then your choice is a four-millimeter rope. But it is better to use it for tying hair and similar delicate work.
A thicker ten-millimeter rope is used where it is necessary to distribute a heavy load as much as possible. For example, when hanging.
In total, at the initial stage you will need five to six three-meter pieces, three to four twelve-meter pieces and one fifteen meters long. Six to eight millimeters thick. It is best that these are pieces of the same rope. As you can imagine, a harness that is half synthetic and half hemp will look somewhat eclectic.

Personally, I use a jute eight and am quite happy with it. Several reasons influenced the choice of material. Firstly, jute looks quite authentic when knitting shibari. It would be even better to use natural hemp, but, by the way, hemp is nothing more than hemp. That's why it (hemp) is so difficult to find. Apparently, drug addicts smoke the ropes to ashes on the way from the manufacturer to the store.
Secondly, jute is a rough material. Therefore, ropes made from it are more bitey than from other materials. My models love it.
Well, and thirdly, having accidentally acquired sixty meters of jute, I decided that good is not good and I settled on it. And, although since then I have come into my hands with ropes made from a variety of, often quite exotic, materials, now it is a matter of habit. I'm used to my ropes. We've already done quite a lot of things together.

By the way, ropes made from natural materials can be further processed to give them more specific properties. In particular, natural hemp or jute is often recommended for depilation. Jokes aside. Remove excess hard lint from them. This is best done with fire. Take your fuzzy rope and scorch it over the fire like a chicken. From a shaggy rope you will get a bald one.
Or natural ropes can be boiled to give them additional softness. The recipe for such a brew varies with each source, but everyone agrees that at the very end the rope should be rinsed for a couple of hours in fabric softener. Personally, I once tried using just mouthwash. The result was exactly the same as after three hours of cooking followed by rinsing.
In short, choose for yourself how you abuse your ropes. All I did with my working jute was just pick out all sorts of debris and splinters from it. I strongly advise you to do the same.

Overall, this chapter does not contain much information that a bondage artist will truly need. I just need to fill out the manual with something to make it a substantial size, and this optional information can help you show off your erudition on occasion. But in the next chapter I promise to be extremely serious.

Rope bondage for beginners
Safety precautions

Not a single manual can do without such a chapter. Even the manual “Sex for Dummies”. And this is completely justified. God forbid, when someone starts studying sex from a book, he reads something wrong, or thinks wrongly and points in the wrong direction. For example, in the eye. I feel sorry for the people.
Although if I were Doctor Evil, I would definitely flood bookstores with various manuals without a section on safety precautions.
Luckily, I'm not Dr. Evil.

A bondage session includes three potentially dangerous elements. Firstly, the actual effect of the ropes. If you remember that people were executed more than once with the help of a rope, you can understand that this instrument is quite dangerous.
Secondly, in a bondage session you are dealing with a helpless person. The one who is knitted remembers this constantly. But the one who knits can forget about it. But we must not forget about this under any circumstances.
Thirdly, bondage often leads the lower one into a state of subspace. This is the name for an altered state of consciousness achieved through sadomasochistic practices. On the one hand - well, subspace - and subspace. A person meditates for himself slowly, what could be dangerous about this? Meanwhile, danger may lurk here too. Let us remember the television healers of the beginning of perestroika. Have you seen how people at their sessions began to involuntarily wave their arms, turn their heads and generally do various things? The key word here is: involuntary. You can never say in advance what exactly the subconscious will throw out when a person is in an altered state of consciousness. This is why subspace is potentially dangerous.
In total, safety precautions for rope bondage can be divided into three main groups. Safety when exposed to ropes, safety for an immobilized person and safety in an altered state of consciousness.

In this chapter I will give a list of rules that you must follow if you want to be cheerful and healthy, and not sad and sick. I will give some of these rules in detail for better memorability, and some briefly, since I think they are obvious. Additionally, I expect you to be familiar with the basics of human anatomy. Otherwise, put this manual aside and pick up an anatomical atlas. It contains a lot of interesting and useful information in addition to the female genitourinary system.

Safety when exposed to ropes.
Rule one.
Never, under any circumstances, allow the rope to wrap around the bottom's neck. Do not place the rope across your neck even if you are sure there will be no load on it. And if you think that a loose rope is safer than tight coils, still don’t put the rope across your neck. It only takes a few seconds to clamp the carotid artery. Let's add a few more seconds to this, during which the brain of your lower one will not receive oxygen, and we will get the output of a human vegetable. And if you remember that troubles happen just when you think you have everything under control, then, obviously, you will strangle your bottom after the session by hanging a coil of rope around his neck just for fun. In general, if you don’t remember that the neck is inviolable, then sooner or later you will need the manual “How to get rid of a corpse.” Moreover, I will not feel sorry for you at all, since I warned you.

Rule two.
Never tie self-tightening or slip knots. They, you know, drag on. And in the best case, you will have to cut your valuable rope to free the lower one from the bonds. In the worst case, consult a doctor so that he can remove the bandage that has cut into the body and restore impaired blood circulation with a minimum of negative consequences.

Rule three.
Never place rope on joints. A little higher I said that a tight rope interferes with blood circulation. This is far from the worst that can happen. If you pinch a joint (always assume that you will pinch it), you will get damaged ligaments as a bonus. In addition, large nerve and lymph nodes are located in the areas of the shoulder, elbow, hip and knee joints. They are easy to damage and difficult to restore. Therefore, never put a rope on your joints, especially! - Do not put stress on these areas. Especially axillary and inguinal.
I have already mentioned the anatomical atlas. Once again, I highly recommend this fascinating read. Moreover, it is easier than ever to find it.

Rule four.
Watch the bottom's limbs. They are the ones most susceptible to a variety of pressure injuries. Impaired blood circulation, damage to ligaments, plus compression of nerves in the limbs are just a piece of cake. Therefore, carefully monitor the condition of the bound person’s limbs. If they change color (turn purple, or even turn blue), remove the harness. If they get cold, remove the harness.

Rule five.
Always have a rope cutting tool on hand. Your session can go wrong at any moment. For example, your bottom may suddenly panic. Or you suddenly discover that he is no longer able to move his fingers. And this will happen exactly when you have already spent half an hour tying knots. You will need the same amount for untying. It is clear that the rope will need to be mercilessly cut, but how will you do it without a tool? Unless you gnaw with your teeth. Therefore, always have either a sharp knife or powerful scissors on hand.

Rule six.
Tits and pussies are inviolable. It sounds rough, but it’s better remembered. Never expose female breasts or male genitals to stress. You can put a strap on them, which will put slight pressure, but nothing more. Even if it seems to you that there is no serious danger, just imagine that you have castrated your model. Or because of you, her breasts will forever remain hanging at the waist.
I wouldn't want something like this to happen because of my stupidity. And you?

Rule seven.
The rope burns. Try to quickly pull the rope through your clenched fist. I bet you won't like it. But at least you will have an idea of ​​what your bottom feels when you pull the ropes too quickly over his naked body. Shibari generally doesn't like being in a hurry. And the possibility of leaving a serious burn, I hope, further encourages you to take your time.

Rule eight.
Be careful about moles. Horror stories about a tumor developing from a mole are not always horror stories. Therefore, try not to damage or tear off the mole. And then you never know. And in general, a mole looks prettier and more piquant than an abrasion. By the way, this rule also applies to papillomas, candylomas and similar skin formations. And go see a dermatologist. It won't hurt.

Rule nine.
The spine is not for knots. Never place knots on the spine. Place them to the left or to the right. Even if you don’t intend to put a serious load on these nodes, it doesn’t matter. God saves man, who save himself.

Safety for an immobilized person.
Rule ten.
Before the session, find out the health status of your partner. Find out how good his blood circulation is. Does he suffer from high or low blood pressure? Is it easy for his limbs to go numb? Did he have any joint injuries? Finding out all this after the fact will be bitter and offensive. Because without knowing what not to do with this person, you will cripple him.
Bondage is strictly contraindicated for people suffering from diabetes or varicose veins.
If a person has circulatory problems or gets numbness in their arms and legs easily, tie the ankles and wrists last. And use minimal harnesses on your limbs.
If you have high blood pressure, do not place the person upside down. And when lowered, do not leave it in a vertical position for a long time and do not move it abruptly from pose to pose. Better put it down right away. One more detail: if you have low blood pressure, it is not recommended to conduct a session on an empty stomach. This doesn't mean you have to eat until you're sick. Just eat a piece of bread or a piece of chocolate or something like that.
If your bottom has injured joints, do not put stress on them. Either leave the affected limb free, or fix it in the most natural and comfortable position for it.
Take your significant other's health condition with extreme seriousness. And be prepared for surprises. The only injury I encountered in my practice was due precisely to the fact that I did not know about the tricky anatomical feature of the lower one. There is such a thing - “narrowed wrist syndrome”. This trouble lies in the fact that some nerve endings pass in the wrong place and are therefore easily vulnerable. This also happens on the legs, but it’s called something else. As a result, the lower one suffered damage to the radial nerve. It took two months to restore the mobility of the arm, and we still got off happily. But if I had noticed in advance that his hands easily went numb, everything could have been different.

Rule eleven.
Fixing limbs in awkward positions can lead to injury. Try sitting cross-legged for at least ten minutes and you will understand what we are talking about. Of course, this applies not only to the legs, but also to the arms. Prolonged fixation of folded arms is dangerous.

Rule twelve.
Use a safe word. Since sadomastic practices are partly a game, provide the rules of the game for the conditions for exiting it. For example, your bottom gets special pleasure from resistance. Can you tell by eye when he is resisting for fun, and when the jokes are over? This is why a safe word was invented. It can be anything, but it is best that it has nothing to do with the context of your session. For example, several of my friends use the word “mushroom pickers.” One day they went out to play in nature at the height of the mushroom season. I think there is no need to explain further.
If you hear a safe word, stop the session immediately.

Rule thirteen.
Keep track of the time. If you apply the bandage seriously, then in any case, at least a little, it will impede blood circulation. So don't get carried away. Don't leave your partner in the same position for too long. Change the harness, give the bottom one a chance to warm up. Moreover, I recommend that you limit your first sessions to half an hour. Not more.

Rule fourteen.
Do not leave a tied person unattended. A bound person is more defenseless than a baby. He may choke on his own saliva, he may fall unsuccessfully, he may choke on his tongue. But who knows what he can do? Man is the king of nature because so much is available to him. When you bind someone, the responsibility of making sure that they do not harm themselves with their powerful abilities falls entirely on you.

Rule fifteen.
Position your bottom in stable positions. If you need it to stand, secure it to some additional support point. If you want him to sit, sit him in a way that makes sure he's comfortable and won't fall off. And best of all, put it down. You can't fall off the floor.
We use our entire body to maintain balance. Arms, legs and a tail, if anyone has one. If you deprive a person of the ability to wave his arms and step his legs, he will not maintain a vertical position for long. And it will fall very loudly at full height. Do you need this?

Safety in altered states of consciousness.
Rule sixteen.
If it seems to you that everything is in order, but to your bottom that everything is not, then he is right, not you. And vice versa, if your bottom thinks that he can withstand more, and you think that’s enough already, you’re right. In other words, always assume the worst possible outcome.

Rule seventeen.
Sobriety is the norm. Never have a session while under the influence of alcohol or drugs. If you are a motorist, then you understand well what a drunk is, on which a person’s health, and often life, depends. If you are a pedestrian, then just take my word for it: alcohol is appropriate when you are responsible only for yourself. In other cases, the cost of your mistake can be very high.

Security is beyond categories.
Rule eighteen.
Have a first aid kit on hand. A sadomasochist's first aid kit must contain ammonia; hemostatic agents; sedatives, for example, valerian; high blood pressure medications; cardiac drugs; bandages.

Rule nineteen.
Never try to hang people unless you have been taught how to do so. I won’t even comment here. Just follow this rule and your bottom will live a healthy and happy life.

Rule twenty.
Bottoms, when going to a session with a person you don’t know very well, leave someone you know a phone number that they can call and check that everything is okay with you. Tell them where to look for you if you suddenly go missing. Remember like the Lord's Prayer: when you are tied up, you will depend solely on the goodwill of the one above.

Unfortunately, despite all the warnings and cautions, we still often learn safety precautions the hard way. I really hope that this does not apply to you personally and that this chapter will help you avoid many serious problems.
Let it be so.

Rope bondage for beginners
The role of the sub in a bondage session

If the bottom in a bondage session served only as a mannequin on which macrame made of ropes or a cocoon of film is wound, it would obviously be easier for the top to adapt the mannequin to his purpose. Or rubber Zina. Or a teddy bear. But the Upper Ones, with enviable tenacity, continue to decorate living people with their compositions. Apparently, they are attracted not only by the temperature of the treated surface, which is 36.6 degrees Celsius, but also by something else. And since this “something else” exists, let’s try to figure out what it is, how to increase it, and what we, the bottoms, can do in order to provide a feeling of deep satisfaction from bondage fun for both the Upper partners and the ourselves.

Confidence
Bondage is one of the BDSM practices that involves bringing the lower one into a helpless state, therefore, requiring enormous trust between partners. You will say that injury can be caused by inept flagellation or an awkward puncture, and you will be right. But if we assume (God forbid, of course) that you run into a psycho who intends to chop you into slices, then, without being fixed, you can at least try to resist, attract attention, for example, by knocking out a window, and so on. In a bound state, you are deprived of this opportunity, even in theory.

But confidence in the adequacy and competence of a partner, quite sufficient for most sadomasochistic games, is not enough to practice bondage. Man is mortal, and mortal suddenly. Close your eyes and imagine the bad. In general, of course, it’s better not to do this in vain, but once, it’s possible. Imagine that you are chained to a radiator, or lying, or even worse, hanging, unable to move and crawl to a knife, telephone and other means of salvation, and your partner has fainted. Obviously seriously and for a long time. For example, he has a diabetic, or epileptic, or vascular, or some other crisis, and he urgently needs medical help. Introduced? - then it’s better to hold off on bondage. Or limit yourself to something relatively innocent, such as ropes secured in front or wrists and ankles cuffed. You can’t imagine this, the picture is not drawn, no matter how hard you try? in your imagination, does your partner first, at the very least, free you, and only then bend himself? - Everything is fine. You trust this person enough to allow yourself to be tied down.

It is better to understand the answer to the question of whether to play or not to play this game before you start. In order not to mislead your partner, not to spoil his and your mood, to avoid unnecessary stress and even, possibly, injury.

What else needs to be done before the first knot is tied?

Natasha Rostova's first ball
Inform
In order for the Top to competently plan a session, he must know quite a lot about his bottom. This is especially true for a new, unfamiliar partner. A stranger precisely as a model for bondage: a peck of salt that you previously ate together on a different basis, of course, gives him a fair amount of information about you as a person, but says nothing at all about how flexible your hands are. If you are not absolutely sure whether this or that circumstance is important for bondage, whether you have already mentioned it before, and if you have mentioned it, then in the context in which the partner drew attention to your message specifically in relation to bondage, it is better repeat again.

The top one needs information about your health, both in general and in particular. In general, this is data on chronic diseases, past injuries, etc. For bondage, the characteristics of blood circulation, the condition of the veins of the extremities, large peripheral nerves, joints and ligaments, the degree of flexibility of the joints, old fractures, dislocations, tendon ruptures, frequent muscle spasms, not fully healed external tissue damage, fresh scars, etc. are especially critical. ; diseases of the cardiovascular system (including dystonia), respiratory organs, digestion... in general, it turns out that everything is written in your medical record, even if you don’t have one. I understand that all this seems excessively tedious, but even my limited horizons, formed by observations of myself and other lower ones, the work of my Master with whom I saw, allows me to judge how amazingly diverse human bodies are, their features and, alas, their sores. In addition, tell your partner how you feel right now: perhaps you have a headache, your blood pressure is off, you ate something wrong and are feeling sick, or, on the contrary, you ate just the right thing, but a lot and recently, you have PMS or menstruation, etc. - all this matters too. Don't try to keep silent about a problem for fear that you won't be contacted because of it. It is very possible that they will tie you up, they will simply choose a method that will not harm you.

We already agreed at the very beginning that a person consists not only of trembling flesh, but also of an immortal soul. How is it going with her, again, in general and in particular? Perhaps you are claustrophobic, or afraid of heights (important when hanging), or prone to panic reactions, hysterics, or fainting due to nervous experiences? What mood are you in right now: playful, restless, depressed, peaceful? What kind of bottom are you - obedient and passive or, on the contrary, violent, prone to fighting or getting out of bondage? Maybe you easily fall into a state of deep subspace and “switch off,” or maybe nothing like this has ever happened to you?

All of these countless factors determine how the Top should treat you. And one more piece of advice: don’t try to decide for him. Don't command, don't lead. Your job is to report, and he will draw conclusions himself. That's why he's the Upper One.

Reach an agreement
I never cease to be amazed at how different people are. Not at all like me. The partner who will connect you now is not the same as those who did it before him. And you are different from those whom he knitted before you. Therefore, what for one goes without saying without any words, for another is completely savage. In a nightmare, the thought of getting out of bondage never occurs to me. But I know people who, on the contrary, do not understand why they are tied up, if not so that they try to free themselves. Hence, the need for a number of preliminary comprehensive and clear agreements on the rules of the game is obvious.

First of all, we are talking about safe words or stop signals. They can be treated differently: some categorically consider them necessary, others reject them with indignation. Make sure that you understand the situation in the same way as the Top Partner understands it and, if you have agreed to use a safe word (signal), you both know it well and interpret it the same way. A breakdown in communication here most often occurs when one of the partners considers the stop signal an imperative to urgently stop the influence, and the other as simply an indication that something is bothering the lower one. My nose is itching. If you decide to abandon the brake light as such, this does not mean abandoning the alarm system altogether. Agree on the signs. In this way, you will save each other from groundless worries out of the blue, and save precious seconds in case something goes wrong.

Pre-session agreements also include agreeing on the context of the session. If it occurs as part of a disciplinary game, or if you are involved in a D/s relationship with your partner, it is advisable to find out in advance whether you can (and should) move, speak, and even more so resist or extricate yourself from bondage, whether it is worth helping to remove rope when they untie you. Don’t forget that your behavior, which is inadequate compared to your partner’s expectations, can easily ruin all the pleasure for him. And it is completely ridiculous to allow such mistakes out of ignorance.

Get ready
When the Upper One grabs you by the mane and drags you to knit without further ado, then, of course, you won’t have much preparation. But if you have a few minutes before the start of the session, use them to take the milk off the stove, turn off your mobile phone and ICQ, perhaps change clothes, and also, if necessary, go to the toilet, take a quick shower, etc.

He said - “Let's go!”
So, you've been tied down. What should you do next? The answer is simple: relax and have fun. This is an activity that everyone indulges in to the extent of their depravity, therefore it is quite difficult to recommend anything. Here are the most general considerations that come to mind.

• Don't get distracted or distract your partner. You will tell him a fresh joke later.
• Do not be shy. After all, your Top, most likely, is not an abstract artist, which means he will not put you in a position in which it is unpleasant for him to look at you. Yes, yes, I mean, he really doesn't pay the slightest attention to the bristling fold of excess fat. A secret: if the Upper One is a man, then most likely he simply does not see her. Men's vision is designed in such a way that they perceive the picture as a whole, and not the details.
  However, abstract artists' vision is even more interesting.
• Behave naturally, whatever that means for you. I want to cry? - cry. Are you excited and your hips are swaying back and forth on their own? - that's good. Do you feel like moaning and screaming? - for God's sake. Do you retreat into yourself, immerse yourself in meditation? - let the yogis envy you. In general, as long as you behave within the limits of what is permitted, and the Upper One knows what these or those reactions of yours mean, do not think about whether you are acting “correctly” or not.
• Don't imitate African passion or fainting from unearthly pleasure if this is not happening. But try to still “get high.” Listen to yourself, your body, your mood, feelings and experiences. Getting to know and mastering the joys of bondage is gradual, and with each subsequent session the pleasure becomes sharper and comes sooner, since as you gain experience you begin to understand where things come from and how they are expressed. However, not everyone likes any sensual practice. I know people who don't like to kiss. Likewise, there are plenty of people in the world, even BDSMers, who don’t like bondage. And there is nothing bad here.
• Art requires sacrifice. You may well experience discomfort and even pain. And my nose itches. Nothing, be patient. In the end, you must justify the proud title of a pervert!
• At the same time, learn to distinguish normal, safe discomfort from a real traumatic situation, and if you suspect the occurrence of the latter, immediately signal! Familiarity with safety precautions and a good knowledge of the symptoms of possible complications will help you with this. So boring medical texts and boring warnings apply not only to Upper, but to you too.
• Look after yourself. Of course, monitoring the condition of the lower one is the responsibility of the Upper one, but he cannot, having tied your hands, constantly watch to see if you are cold or blue. He will only do this from time to time, otherwise he will never be able to tie, say, his legs again. In addition, there are difficulties that have no immediate external symptoms at all. The sooner the Upper One's attention is drawn to the problem that has arisen, the sooner he will be able to respond to it. Of course, being in a helpless state, being exposed to influences (after all, this could be the influence of more than just a rope or something else that has fixed you), it is quite possible, while experiencing subspace, it is quite difficult to maintain the ability to adequately assess sensations. And you don't have to. But if you can, it’s better to try. By doing this you are helping the Upper One. You can learn something. For example, I somehow manage to move my fingers and hands almost continuously to make sure they are moving normally (my wrists are my weak spot), even if I have trouble understanding who I am and where I am.
• Signal. It’s very good if you can inform the Upper One not only about problems, but also from time to time give a sign that everything is okay with you.

“Cut.” Thanks to everybody, you're free.
It may be that after the session you will need help. I don’t mean medical help, this is a special article, I want to believe that it will not be needed. We are talking about human help: to wrap you up (a slight chill is a fairly typical reaction to the removal of bondage), to sit with you, to bring you something if your legs are not yet strong enough due to excess feelings. Do not hesitate to ask for such help. I hope that abusing your helplessness and chasing Verkhny around like an errand boy is ugly, as you yourself understand.

When some time has passed and all the passions have subsided, tell the Upper One about what you yourself noticed: unusual reactions, discomfort or, conversely, delight and bliss - in general, there is no unnecessary information here either. This will help him enhance the effectiveness of subsequent actions and eliminate shortcomings, if any. But that’s later, with a fresh mind.

In the meantime, don’t be lazy to say thank you to him. In the ways you know how. He needs your support, care and affection no less than you need his. He worked and was tired. He worried and felt. He made you feel good, he made you feel beautiful. Thankfully, you can never express too much gratitude.

Rope bondage for beginners
Psychology and construction of a bondage scene

Psychology

It's time to talk about the darkest and most obscure side of rope bondage: psychology.

Think about it: why do you like bondage? Regardless of whether you are the top or the bottom. What specifically attracts you to bondage?

Aesthetics? Do you like the way the rope lies on a person, or the way the rope weaves around your chest specifically? But external aestheticism can be achieved with ordinary clothes. And the aesthetics of rope alone is not enough to feel like a bondage artist. The naked aesthetic is more of a fetish, right? So there is something else. What?

Are you attracted to the immobility and helplessness of a tied person? Yes, this is probably closer. Such a reason can no longer be attributed to fetishism, which means it is more significant, more real.

But let's try to move a little further: why do you like it when your partner is immobilized? Or why do you like it when you are helpless in front of your partner and are completely at his will? And, keeping in mind that we are talking about erotic bondage, why is all this so strongly connected to sex?

The answer is simple, although unexpected for many. The reason is fear of sexuality.

I bet at this point half of the readers (men, of course) will be very indignant: “We, dominant alpha males, are not afraid of anything or anyone! What nonsense!”
At the same time, think about whether you have difficulty expressing your feelings? Don't you prefer to remain silent once again, instead of telling the woman you like about how much you like her? Chances are you're introverted, right?

By the way, the same picture applies to the lower ones. The only difference with the top ones is that the top ones prefer to look for solutions themselves, while the bottom ones trust others to find solutions.

Moreover, the picture can be further expanded: the fear of sex is inherent not only in bondage artists - don’t think that we are the only ones (poor, or advanced - depends on the point of view). And not only sadomasochists suffer from this uh... I won’t say “illness”, since this trait - fear of the opposite sex - is inherent in absolutely everyone. I emphasize: everyone. Absolutely.
We, men and women, are too different, too different from each other. We think differently, feel differently, even see the same thing - and then in different ways. And we, being so different, desperately need each other. And fear of the fundamentally incomprehensible, which cannot be broken, which cannot be forgotten, is a very human trait.
And the difference between us - sadomasochists, bondage artists and others is only in the specific way we cope with this fear.

Have you noticed how widespread the stereotype of men belittling women is in vanilla? All these “caps”, “nipples”, “chicks” and other disparaging names are nothing more than a psychological defensive reaction. If it is impossible to understand a woman, it is necessary to humiliate her. Humiliation does not frighten a man.
Women treat men in exactly the same way, only their methods are slightly different. “Men are assholes,” “you’re a wimp,” “I gave you my best years.” If a man is incomprehensible, then let him be guilty, let him justify himself. A man who makes excuses is not scary to a woman.

All methods of personal, intimate interaction between a man and a woman are ways of overcoming the fear of such an incomprehensible opposite sex.

But why bondage? And How?
Let's figure it out.
Now I will draw a psychological portrait of a bondage artist, then I will detail it into two - upper and lower, and then we will see what follows from all this, what practical conclusions and recommendations.

First: obviously, the bondage artist is fundamentally not satisfied with the generally accepted methods of interaction with the opposite sex. The bondage artist is not satisfied with the constant mute confrontation, expressed in more or less demonstrative disregard for the opposite sex. Otherwise he wouldn't be a bondage artist, right? It could easily be realized through “caps” and “men are assholes.”

Second: the bondage artist expresses his relationship with his partner in actions. Not in words, not in declarations, not in demonstrations, but in concrete actions: take, lift, move, put down.

Third: in the relationship with a partner (during the session), the bondage artist exists within the framework of the “parent-child” psychological template. According to this pattern, one partner (“child”) is helpless, irresponsible, and completely dependent on the other. The second partner (“parent”) is attentive, caring, and has unlimited power.

Important: in the psychological pattern “parent-child”, implemented through bondage, the “parent” is certainly kind. In a bondage session there is practically no place for influences psychologically associated with punishment: spanking, spanking, a strict, accusing tone. For the “parent” there is another pattern of behavior that is characteristic of flagellation, spanker and disciplinary sessions: a strict parent. These two patterns are antagonistic and, when entering a session in which it is intended to use both bondage and active influences, it is necessary to know in advance what exactly will be the leitmotif of the session and what will be an auxiliary element.
Since this manual is dedicated to bondage, the “good parent” pattern is important for us, top bondage artists. This is what a bondage sub needs.

Building the scene

The psychological portraits of a top-bottom bondage couple are roughly outlined. What practical recommendations can be drawn from them?

· The top, entering the session, must be absolutely prepared for anything. You are the parent. You have no right to betray the trust of a child. You do not have the right not to cope with a difficulty if it arises. You must not panic, you must not experience visible difficulties.
The easiest way to achieve a feeling of complete confidence in your abilities is to plan the course of the session in advance. Don’t be lazy to think in advance about how you will enter it, what you will do during it, and how you will get out of it. Including in emergency cases. Consider several options for the flow of the session. Consider several entry and exit options. Consider how to shorten the session if necessary. Think about how to extend it, if necessary. Play the session in your head several times, rehearse it in advance. This does not mean that you need to build a clear lapidary plan and not deviate a single step from it. The more options you think about, the easier and more confident you will be able to improvise during the session. Your lover expects ease and confidence from you. Don't disappoint him. Prepare yourself.

· Don't forget that you are a parent. Treat your bottom like your own child. With all the attention and care you can muster. Always remember that your “child” is absolutely helpless without you. All he can do is feel. The rest is up to you. Totally on you. If your “child” sneezed, at least wipe his nose. Better yet, at the same time, try to understand why he sneezed, why, what the consequences could be for him, how to avoid them and how to eliminate the cause in order to avoid recurrence.

· Let your date know in advance that during the session he can do whatever he wants. Laugh, cry, chat, be silent, test the strength of the harnesses, get comfortable in them. Everything. He is a “child”, he does whatever comes to his mind. Limiting him so that he is able to do only what you need is your task, not his.

· Both “parent” and “child” are roles. You need to tune in to them. You will be surprised how easy it is to get into character if the “child’s” hands are tied from the very beginning of the session. It’s also much easier for the bottom one. Hands are tied - that's it, the roles are divided, the session has begun.

· Views are very important. If you are not a natural actor, you may find it difficult to get into character while being watched by a sub. Blindfold the bottom one. Now no one sees you and you can freely be whatever you want. Moreover, it’s easier for the bottom one. If you don’t blindfold him, then most likely he will close them himself: he is not only helpless, but also does not orient himself in the world around him; he is a “baby”.

· Tactile contact is very important in a bondage session. The “child” communicates with the “parent” through touch, through the feeling of the parent’s hands. Do you know how to communicate with cats? Do you know how to calm animals with your hands? This is how you will interact with the bottom.

· Music can help you a lot. In a situation where most channels of interaction with the outside world are blocked, hearing begins to play a very important role. It is music that will help you set the overall emotional outline of the session.

· During the session, you will have to independently determine what your boyfriend is ready for and what he is not. If you need feedback from him, ask simple, short questions that can be answered with a “yes” or “no.” The need to formulate and express thoughts will knock your bottom out of the role and it will be very difficult for him to return back.

· During the session, you should not speak harshly or loudly. Until your bottom has completely entered the “child” state, the environment should be calm and peaceful. Once you have succeeded in getting into the role, one of your tasks is not to provoke someone to fall out of it.

· Once you tune in to complementary roles, you will feel that you can do anything with the bottom. That nothing is forbidden. There is nothing obscene or indecent. Don't be alarmed by incestuous allusions - your “child” is an adult.
If the bottom one believes that you do not have the right to everything, then you were mistaken and mutual adjustment did not happen.
If you enter a session just so that everything is possible for you, unfortunately, you are not a top bondage artist. There's no point in starting.

Rope bondage for beginners
Practice

In this section I have provided “storyboards” of the main, basic harnesses. Over time I will add some additions to it, but not much. In my opinion, offering “ready-made solutions” kills imagination. But, on the other hand, you need to know the basics. In general, decide for yourself whether you need it, or you yourself will come up with something much more interesting.
And I remind you: don’t expect any special revelations. All these schemes are already on the Internet.

Rope bondage for beginners
Nodes

Where should I start with the practical part? Of course, you believe that now, from the very first lines, they will tell you how to tie a person, fixing his left leg to his right hand, and his right leg through his back behind his ear.
I admit, I myself would be interested in talking about this, especially since I still don’t have the slightest idea of ​​how this can be done, and, most importantly, why it is needed. If I could tell you, and maybe I’d figure out what’s what. But you have to start with a rather boring topic. From nodes.
Quite a lot of books have been written about knots, what they are, what they are not, what they are used for and what they are not used for, including in Russian. Personally, I prefer the reference book “Sea Knots” by Lev Skryagin. The knots described in this guide are enough to completely upholster a hefty sailing ship. What can we say about the one and only person who fell into our bondage clutches.
Practice shows that for rope bondage, four simple knots and one not-so-simple knot are more than enough. I will give descriptions of these knots according to Skryagin’s reference book, highlighting Skryagin’s descriptions in italics, and I will additionally outline their undoubted benefits for bondage and the scope of their application in our craft.

The most common knot in our business is the knot with the semi-militant name “simple half-bayonet”.

To the cat after sterilization surgery, as well as after other abdominal operations, it is necessary postoperative bandage called bandage or blanket. A cat may also need the same bandage in case of surgery on the stomach or intestines. This bandage protects the animal's postoperative scar from dirt, as well as from licking by a cat's tongue. Cats are used to treating themselves, and they try to lick any wound. As a result of their efforts, the seam may begin to separate and the threads may begin to tear.

Therefore, if your cat has had to undergo surgery, then for the speedy healing of the scar it is better to purchase bandage (postoperative blanket). Unfortunately, it may happen that the blanket will not be on sale, and there will be no time to look for it in all veterinary pharmacies in the city. Therefore, I propose a simple postoperative bandage pattern for cats, according to which you can sew the bandage yourself. The pattern consists of one piece to which a tie system is attached.

How to sew a postoperative blanket (bandage) for a cat

There are several sewing options of varying degrees of complexity. First you need to determine the size of the pattern. This is done as follows. Measure the circumference of your cat's body in the abdominal area in centimeters, divide the resulting number by the width of the proposed pattern, also in centimeters. You will receive a certain coefficient, approximately the same number of times you will need to increase the proposed pattern.

The pattern can be enlarged manually, or in a special computer program, for example, Microsoft Office Picture Manager. Print it on a printer, most likely it will fit on several sheets, so you will have to cut out parts of the pattern and glue them together. You can use the measurements provided, but remember that they are approximate. You may need to adjust it to suit your cat's size.

You will need cotton fabric, thick if you are going to sew a blanket in one layer, or thin if you are sewing a two-layer bandage. For ties, ready-made braid or regular shoe laces are suitable. The fabric for the blanket should be soft so as not to rub the cat's injured areas of the body. The bandage can be sewn in two copies, so that if necessary, replace one with the other.

1. Cut out two parts of the blanket according to the pattern (top layer and lining), adding a seam allowance of approximately 1 cm, fold the parts inside out, and put ties in the marked places. Stepping back 1 cm from the edge, we sew a seam using a sewing machine, leaving an unstitched area through which we turn the blanket inside out. We sew up the hole, after which the blanket can be ironed.

2. In the photo you see a bandage made of thick flannel fabric, sewn in one layer. At the same time, the edges of the fabric are treated with braid, which at the same time serves as ties. The individual edges of the blanket are simply folded and stitched.

3. Well, the easiest option for those who don’t know how to sew. Take a thick, non-flowing fabric (flannel or flannel will do), cut out a blanket in one layer, and manually sew the ties in the right places.

How to put on a post-operative blanket (bandage) for a cat

Now let's talk about how to wear postoperative blanket on cat. If the animal is under the influence of anesthesia, you can put it on without difficulty. If he resists, ask your family for help. The proposed diagram shows how to place the blanket on the cat's body and in what order to tie the laces. If you notice stiffness in your cat's movements, simply loosen the necessary ties slightly. If you feel unsure, practice putting the blanket on a soft toy first.

The top ties (1) are tied around the neck, the next two pairs of ties (2 and 3) are tied crosswise around the cat’s withers. The next two pairs (4.5) are simply tied at the back. And the last two pairs of ties (6 and 7) are criss-crossed around the animal’s rump.

The part of the cat's body under the tail should be open so that it can go to the toilet, but the bandage should not get wet from urine. If it gets wet, shorten or tuck the bottom part of the blanket; perhaps it is too long.

If your cat requires a gauze pad over the scar, or the scar requires regular treatment, it is sufficient to untie only the two pairs of bottom ties (6 and 7) to gain access to the scar.

If the blanket is put on correctly, it should not hinder the cat’s movements, should not get wet when going to the toilet, and should not slip or get confused. The ties must be long enough to adjust the blanket to the size of the animal.

If you remove the bandage to wash and dry, be careful not to lick the wound. In this case, it is better to have one more blanket in reserve.

You can buy ready-made postoperative collars and blankets for cats in the online pet store zverek-shop.

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The activity of our pets, cats and cats, sometimes does not benefit them. As a result, cats can receive various injuries and injuries, which sometimes ends with a trip to the veterinarian, and in some cases, surgery cannot be avoided. Although the latter may not at all depend on the cat’s activity when it comes to sterilization. In the first and second cases, it is necessary to use a special postoperative bandage, which is also called a blanket. This device blocks the cat’s access to places on the body with stitches, because with a rough tongue, licking wounds, the animal often only harms itself by tearing off only healed areas of skin and stitches, and the beneficial effect of saliva is not enough here.

A bandage for cats is a special fabric device designed to block access to postoperative sutures, thereby promoting faster healing of wounds on the body of cats. After all, it provides good protection for postoperative sutures from mechanical influences, pathogenic bacteria, dust and dirt, which reduces the risk of inflammation and complications after surgery. It is better to consult a veterinarian about the need to wear a bandage in each specific case. Specialized stores for cats offer a large selection of such bandages. But since there is no difficulty in its cut, it makes sense to sew it yourself, saving a considerable amount of money.

Making a bandage at home

If you have at least a minimal understanding of sewing, then it will not be difficult for you to sew a post-operative bandage for your cat. The main thing in the manufacture of bandages is the presence of correctly located and well-fixing tapes for tying. This will also help to fit it to the body of a cat of any size. A properly sewn blanket does not cause discomfort to the cat when feeding, sleeping and going to the tray.

Where is the best place to start sewing blankets? Without correctly taken measurements of your pet's body parts, the product may turn out to be uncomfortable and ineffective. We take the following measurements:

1. body length, that is, the distance between the neck and tail;
2. abdominal area from front to hind legs;
3. circumference of all paws and tail;
4. chest volumes.

Several pattern options

Directly cutting out the blanket involves marking and cutting out holes for the paws on a piece of fabric, in strict accordance with the previously made measurements. Sometimes a pattern of a bandage or blanket is made in the form of a triangle with a hole for the tail at its top. The long sides of the triangle are wrapped around the cat's body along the front legs, and their ends, wrapped around the body, are taken out in front and tied in a knot behind the back. You can make a bandage after surgery with passages only for the front paws and distribute them evenly around the perimeter of the ties, Velcro or buttons. The buttons are very convenient to put on, but can easily come unfastened during use, therefore, they are not recommended.

You can cut out and sew a blanket by placing the cats' paws in small circles and the head in a larger circle. With this cutting, you need to cross the back and front ties. When tying it, you need to be careful not to pull the cat's fur along with the tie. When tying the bandage, you should also leave allowances for free movement of the diaphragm when breathing.

Fabrics used

It is better to sew such bandages from several layers of fabric:

• top – decorative or waterproof;
• medium – insulating, made of soft and warm fabric;
• internal - underwear made of delicate knitwear or flannel fabric.

It is best to sew a blanket made of two or three layers with well-stitched edges and ribbons for ties. For the durability of such a product, it is better to take dense cotton fabrics. The ties are cut long, and during the fitting process their excess length is removed so that the animal does not get entangled in them. In order not to disturb the cat once again, you need to determine the location of the paws in advance. If there are serious wounds after sterilization surgery, a multi-layer bandage is placed under the bandage when putting it on.

Dressing

The functionality and effectiveness of using a bandage for a cat during its postoperative period after sterilization depends not only on the correctness of its cut and manufacture. After surgery, the bandage must be tied correctly and carefully. If the fasteners or ties of the bandage are pulled too tightly, it will be too tight, and this will have a bad effect on the healing processes of stitches and wounds. A very loose tie is also ineffective; it will move, rubbing the seam on the animal, or the cat will pull it off altogether, and also damage the seams.

When dressing correctly, you need to unfold the bandage, straightening all the ties. Then the cat carefully lies down on it and the ties are secured in front near the head and front paws. After this, the back ties are tied in pairs above the paws and they are bandaged in the pelvic area. With different cuts of blankets, there may be a different order of dressing. The main thing after putting on the bandage is to make sure it is properly fixed. To do this, you need to let the cat move around the apartment. If she feels comfortable, moves around freely and does not try to tear off the bandage, then he is wearing it correctly.

It should be noted that there is no need to take off and put on the blanket every day. If you need to treat a seam after sterilization, or change a bandage, you can just untie a few ties. But still, we must take into account that during the period of wearing the blanket, which is 10-14 days, it may be necessary to change it to maintain cleanliness.

However, most cats feel uncomfortable wearing a bandage. They try to get rid of it, gnaw and tear it with their teeth and claws. Therefore, a properly selected fabric for a bandage, especially its upper part, should be relatively durable. If the cat nevertheless takes off the blanket, then first of all you need to inspect the seam and, if necessary, contact a veterinarian. If everything is fine with the seam, you need to carefully put the bandage back on so that it fits tighter.

Be more kind and gentle to your pets during this difficult period for them, pay them more attention and then they will forget about the bandage.

Ready-made postoperative bandages cannot always be used. In some cases, specific requirements must be met, for example, not all ready-made models take into account the individual characteristics of a person’s physique; in addition, bandages are made mainly from synthetic materials, which can cause an allergic reaction when worn. If you have problems choosing ready-made bandages, you can simply sew one yourself.

You will need

• - material;
• - sewing supplies: threads, needles, scissors, centimeter, pins;
• - fastening elements;
• - stiffening rib;
• - sewing machine (seams made on a sewing machine are stronger and more reliable);
• - pattern;

Instructions

In order to decide which type of fabric is best suited, determine whether you need an elastic material that directly supports the seam, or whether you need a material for more serious support, for example, fixing internal organs in a certain position (in this case, you can choose a waffle towel folded into several layers).

Select fastening elements. As the most suitable and comfortable elements for fastening and fixing the bandage, ordinary hooks, ties, Velcro fasteners, and elastic bands can be used.

If individually necessary, select supporting stiffeners, such as sewn-in metal plates, regilin or others.

Determine the dimensions and create an approximate pattern. In this case, a comfortable item of clothing, for example, a T-shirt, bodysuit, corset, and so on, can serve as a pattern.

Outlining and first fitting. All seams are swept away except one, which is left for the most convenient fitting process. After which, if there are no comments, you can safely start stitching the seams on a sewing machine.

Attach your chosen fasteners and fasteners.

note

Postoperative bandages are designed to support and reduce the load on the operated areas of the human body, which promotes faster healing of surgical sutures, reducing the risk of hernias and other postoperative complications. Based on this, it is necessary to pay attention to the choice of material, fastening elements, etc.

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If your cat has not experienced the need for surgery, then most likely you do not know what a post-operative bandage or blanket is. At the same time, every day the procedure for sterilizing small predators is becoming increasingly relevant, so it is likely that many owners will sooner or later have to face the issue of choosing such clothing, although this is unless you just want to warm your pet or sew interesting clothes ( there are different types of blankets).

Briefly about the purpose

We will not consider the options for the mentioned “clothing” only as an interesting addition to the image of a pet, although in some cases a blanket is really needed for practical purposes (for example, for heating short-haired or hairless cats and cats).

Most often, this element of a cat's wardrobe is used to protect the postoperative suture from dirt, pathogens, fungi, and even the tongue of the animal itself, which strives to lick the wound. Inflammation of the suture is one of the most important complications after surgery, so it’s not worth the risk.

Created on a fabric basis and placed on the cat immediately after the procedure, the bandage will block any access to the stitches and facilitate their quick tightening. In many private clinics, it is given to each operated animal at no additional cost, but even if this does not happen, you can purchase a blanket at any specialized store with a large assortment of similar products, or, as a last resort, sew it yourself.

Important! Before looking for a post-operative bandage or making one yourself, check with your veterinarian whether it is necessary to use it, because today there are many technologies for suturing, after which a blanket is not required or may even cause harm.

Selection criteria and types of blankets

In modern pet stores there is a huge number of different blankets for cats, which are designed not only to protect the seam after the same sterilization, but also to insulate the animal or protect your furniture from the products of metabolic processes in its body (for example, it is known that they can sweat very much , leaving unpleasant streaks or stains on home furniture).

When choosing any of the above options, make sure that it is made only from natural and body-friendly materials, otherwise the possibility of irritation of your pet’s skin cannot be ruled out.

As for the postoperative (let's call it “medical”) blanket, it is usually made of thick cotton fabric, with well-finished edges, and this, I must say, is the most successful option.

In the classic form - this is a rectangular piece of fabric with cutouts for paws and ties at the edges(there are seven of them in total: three are in the central part, two are located behind the holes for the front paws and two more are fixed perpendicular to the harnesses located in the middle of the blanket in its rear area).

As an alternative, you can purchase such a bandage not with ties, but with Velcro, which makes it much more convenient to fix it on the cat, adjusting the desired length. True, such a blanket will cost more.

Almost all such products have similar sizes, but in any case, if possible, it is better to check whether it will not interfere with your pet going to the toilet or simply moving freely around the house. This can be done before surgery by simply trying on the selected model.

Sew or make it yourself

The simplest blankets for cats are relatively inexpensive, but if you want to save extra money, making a bandage with your own hands will not be difficult. All you need is a rectangular piece of natural fabric (you can take thick cotton or flannel), measurements from your pet and a little free time.

This option is sometimes even more preferable, as it allows you to create a suitable bandage specifically for your pet that will not interfere with it.

Important!The length of the selected segment should match the length of the cat's back, and the width should be sufficient to fully encircle the abdomen.

If you don’t have a sewing machine at hand, then the selected piece of fabric (if it meets the above requirement) can simply be folded in half and holes for the paws made in the right places. The ties can also be sewn to the blanket by hand, strictly following the pattern of their location for the convenience of the animal.

Blanket for a cat: instructions for making it yourself

If you are not satisfied with the described simple option for creating a bandage, then you can take a longer route and sew a blanket according to all the rules: starting with taking precise measurements and patterns and ending with creating the product using a sewing machine.

How to make a pattern

Sewing any product begins with taking accurate measurements, in this case measuring parts of your furry pet’s body. This stage should be taken with full responsibility, because even a small error in measurement can make the finished bandage very inconvenient and ineffective.

First of all, you should be interested in the exact length of the pet’s body (measured from the base of the neck to the tail), the distance from the front to hind legs along the stomach, the circumference of each of the legs and tail, and the volume of the chest.

Having received all this data, you can take a sheet of parchment paper and move on to the pattern. Usually it involves marking and cutting out holes for the paws, in accordance with the measurements obtained, but it can also be done simply in the form of a triangle, with a hole for the tail in its upper part. In this case, the long sides of the triangle will be used to encircle the body along the paw line, and the ends of the fabric will simply be wrapped around the animal. Thus, all that remains is to tie the blanket on the back.
The second possible pattern option is considered more practical, since it involves creating passages for the front limbs of a pet. The rest of the future product is evenly distributed for ties or Velcro.

An even more complex modification of a homemade blanket is based on creating holes for the head and paws, but in this case, when using a bandage, you need to ensure that the fur is not pinched, the cat is comfortable, and there is no great impact on the diaphragm (there will be no breathing problems shouldn't).

Regardless of how you decide to transfer the measurements taken to the pattern, be sure to make the allowances necessary for stitching the edges.

Did you know?By hunting mice, just one cat saves about 10 tons of grain a year, so in England, these animals are specially used to guard food warehouses and even libraries. In Austria, after several years of service, pets are entitled to a lifetime allowance in the form of food (meat, milk and broth).

Cutting out the details

The blanket can be single-layer, two-layer or even three-layer, which will help make it denser and more durable. When choosing a material, it is better to give preference to non-fraying, natural and dense options that can withstand your pet’s claws and at the same time allow air to pass through the body.

As soon as you have such fabric, you can transfer the pattern onto it and, securing the paper with pins, proceed to cutting (do not forget to save the allowances). In an additional order, draw out the fabric for the blanket ties. Usually they require at least five, or even seven pairs: for the neck, front legs, in the middle of the body and in front of the hind legs. The product with ties is deservedly considered the most practical and easiest to create.

Correct tailoring

Many owners have appreciated the benefits of a multi-layer bandage used for cats after sterilization. Making it yourself will be a little more difficult than a single one, but it’s worth it.
The topmost layer is waterproof and decorative, the middle one can be insulating (if, for example, the cat lives outside), and the inner one should preferably be made of soft and pleasant fabric (flannel or knitwear is best suited for these purposes).

The edges of the blanket and ties must be stitched along the edge, otherwise they may stick out in the future.

Important! Leave the tie strips as long as possible; they can be shortened a little during actual fitting.

When sewing, immediately determine the place for the paws, so as not to disturb your pet once again with fitting. If, after the operation, there are still wounds on the abdomen, then under the bandage you will have to additionally place a layer of bandage folded several times.

One of the most important tasks when sewing a blanket is the correct placement of the ties, which we already mentioned earlier. With their help, you can adjust the size of the bandage to the parameters of your cat, so that it is comfortable for her to be in it during any of her activities.

How to wear a bandage correctly

Proper cutting and sewing of a blanket is only half the success, and the other half lies in its optimal use. Of course, with such a simple design, you don’t have to think long about how to tie it on a cat, but you shouldn’t forget about some of the nuances of this simple matter.

So, if you tighten the ties too much, the postoperative sutures will take longer to heal, while if the ties are loose, they may rub when the animal moves (it is likely that the cat will try to take off uncomfortable clothes).

The process of properly putting on a bandage is as follows:

• Carefully lay out the finished product and straighten all the ties on it.
• Place your pet on top and secure the front part of the blanket (in the area of ​​the head and front paws) with ribbons.
• Tie the back tie strips in pairs and tie them in the pelvic area. Ready.

If for some reason this option is inconvenient for you, then the order of the actions performed may be different, especially since much in this matter depends on the cut of the product.

Finally, watch your pet as she moves around the house. If the animal is completely calm and does not try to get rid of the bandage, then you have done everything correctly.

There is no need to constantly take off and put on the blanket, and if you have to work on the seam, you just need to untie a few ribbons located in the back of the pet’s body.

Did you know?The likelihood of developing a heart attack or stroke among owners of pet cats is 30% lower compared to those who do not have these cute and fluffy creatures at home.

An interesting way: how to make a blanket from a sock

Despite the fact that all the described options for a homemade blanket are not particularly complicated, there is an even simpler process for creating a postoperative bandage.
In this case, you will need an ordinary sock, although the main thing is that it stretches well, and a little time to create such a “sock blanket” according to the following scenario:

• fold the sock so that the heel is on top, slightly pressed into the main part;
• step back 1.5-2 cm from the toe side of the product and cut off the edge;
• now, on the elastic side, you need to make holes for the paws, simply cutting off on the sides, along the fold line, pieces of fabric about five centimeters long (the elastic of the sock itself should remain intact on all sides);
• the same must be done on the other side, retreating from the edge of the former toe part about three centimeters (if you make holes for the paws without indentation, the cat will quickly tear them to the end);
• Having laid out the sock, with the heel up, you get a blanket that is completely closed on all sides, with holes for the paws, all that remains is to try on the finished product, starting to put it on from the side of the head.

If you choose this, the least expensive way to create a bandage, then give preference to men's socks that have good stretch, otherwise you will have to struggle for a long time to dress the animal. As you can see, it doesn’t always make sense to buy ready-made products, and even if the chosen blanket is inexpensive, it’s always nice to save money.