home Audience 1 What to do if your dog bites the leash. The dog plays with the leash or chews on it. The right choice of ammunition

What to do if your dog bites the leash. The dog plays with the leash or chews on it. The right choice of ammunition

31.07.2018

Some of the habits of our smaller brothers, it seems, man is never destined to understand. For example, one of them is irresistible craving to fight with a collar or leash. It is not inherent in all dogs, but cases where a dog eats a collar or tries to chew the leash at any opportunity occur quite often.

How does it manifest?

If you have not encountered a similar problem yourself, but are simply interested in the topic, we will explain how this is possible. There are several cases:

the dog chews the collar at home when the owner takes it off after a walk,
the dog twists and pulls at the loose tip of the collar, eventually unfastening or gnawing it.

It's about the same with the leash:

the pet is chewing on a leash found at home,
turns and bites him while walking or remaining on a leash.

Why is she doing this?

If your four-legged friend could talk, he would definitely explain his behavior to you. But since he can’t do this, we can only guess why he didn’t like the leash or, conversely, liked the taste of the collar.

This behavior can have several reasons.

Firstly, it may be caused by negative emotions associated with the walk. It happens that dogs begin to growl or hide at the sight of a collar or leash. Trying to eat it is exactly the same expression of protest.

Reasons for dislike mandatory attributes There may be several walks, but most often it is caused by an incorrect approach to education and, as a result, unpleasant memories. Perhaps the owner used force and shouted at the pet when he was just getting used to wearing a collar, or pulled the leash when the stupid puppy tried to play with him or pull him in the wrong direction. All this can have unpleasant consequences for an animal - one sight of these objects and the feeling of a noose on the neck can immediately cause defensive reaction and trying to free myself.

Secondly, there is a high probability that the owner chose the first collar incorrectly and did not pay due attention when training the puppy.

To avoid such problems you need to:

Buying the right collar is best made of synthetic material with smooth length adjustment and a plastic carabiner clasp. The fact is that many people immediately buy a leather collar for their puppy “for growth.” After fastening it, a long dangling “tail” remains, which the pet begins to chew with pleasure. If this is not prevented, the habit of eating the collar will remain in the adult dog. Synthetic models have a design in which the free end of the collar is securely hidden.
To put it on correctly, a finger, or at least two, should fit freely between the collar and the animal’s neck. This way he will not choke the pet, and it will be difficult to bite him.
Distract from a new thing when training - you should keep the puppy busy with play so that he quickly gets used to the collar and does not pay attention to it.

What to do if the moment is missed?

You should pay attention to the above points in time, but, unfortunately, there is not always enough time to raise a dog. How to solve the problem in this case?

You can try the following options:

Change the collar so that, as with a puppy, it can be fastened securely, preventing it from being pulled over the head and access to the free end.
Try metal collars and leashes - chewing on them is not nearly as pleasant as leather or fabric models.
Buy a special anti-rodent agent and treat the collar and leash with it. It has an unpleasant taste, so the desire to try an object treated with it on the tooth will quickly disappear.
Pamper your pet with a long-lasting treat; it is quite possible that his teeth are just itching, or that the collar and leash are associated with play.
If such behavior is observed only during a walk, it may be worth purchasing a muzzle, which simply will not leave the opportunity to chew through the leash and collar. But in this case, do not forget that the pet should be properly accustomed to it in order to avoid a similar problem.

As a conclusion

As you may have noticed, in most cases the reason that a dog eats a collar is a lack of training, as well as an incorrect or overly cruel approach. To avoid this, it is important to pay as much attention as possible to your pet during childhood. It is quite difficult to re-educate an adult, but with due persistence and severity (but not aggression) it is still possible.

Dog owners often encounter a problem where their pet pulls hard on the leash while walking. Such behavior does not characterize the animal’s curiosity and zeal; the dog lacks attention. To make future walks more comfortable for both the owner and the pet, it is important to approach the training process thoroughly. Let's look at the common reasons why a dog pulls on the leash, and give practical recommendations.

Why does the dog pull on the leash?

When the leash is constantly pulled, pressure is placed on the dog's neck, which makes it difficult for the dog to breathe. As a result, an ordinary walk negatively affects the pet’s health, causing wheezing when breathing and severe coughing.

The dog pulls on the leash in situations where the owner takes it for a walk very rarely. When outdoors, the pet tends to escape and explore as many places as possible. This gives rise to problems that are quite easy to solve. Take your pet for walks more often. In some cases, the reason why a dog pulls on the leash may be fear caused by external factors or other animals.
There are certain categories of animals that are early age taught to pull on a leash. These include police (service) dogs, as well as guide dogs that help blind owners navigate the city.
If you have a sled dog, teach it good manners from puppyhood. If you have an adult pet, retraining it to walk properly on a leash will take time and patience.
A pet pulls on the leash when it shows aggression towards strangers or other animals. In such a situation, the pet may attempt an attack. To avoid such misunderstandings, you need to be closely involved in raising the dog (the command “No!”, “Near!”).
By pulling on the leash, the dog shows disobedience to the owner by such behavior. In some cases, such actions can be provoked by various factors. Don't let your animal drag you along on your walk.

The right choice of ammunition

The final result directly depends on the selected accessories. Choose a collar suitable for pet to size. Very wide equipment will cause a burdening effect, and the dog will ignore light equipment.

Roulette leash. An easy-to-use accessory. However, to wean your dog from pulling on the leash, you need to choose equipment with a lock. You cannot use the roulette in free form, otherwise all your work will go down the drain.
Regular leash. The device is a thick tape. The leash is available in different lengths and widths. If possible, purchase 2 options - a short one for fixing at the leg and a long one (about 2-3 m.) for walking.
Leash with handle. The short accessory is made of a durable ribbon with a carabiner at the base. A leash is not suitable for training; it is most often used when an animal is learning the “Near!” command.
Loop collar. The device serves as a kind of noose. The noose tightens around the dog's neck when the animal pulls hard on the leash. As a result, the dog slows down. The accessory is often purchased by dog trainers for training untrained large breed animals. This option is suitable if you have taken custody of an individual older than 1 year.
Strict collar. The instrument is also called “parfors”. The ammunition is a collar with spikes made of metal. The collar is suitable for adults of large breeds; it is worn in extreme cases disobedience. An analogue is an electric shock collar (ESC), which forces the dog to obey using microimpulses (punishment) and vibration (warning).
Halter collar. Many dog owners refuse this kind of equipment, but in vain. The halter puts pressure on the animal's mouth when the pet pulls on the leash. As a result, behavior is corrected without breathing problems, discomfort, or pain. It makes sense to take a closer look at this option, but finding a halter (not to be confused with a muzzle!) on sale is quite difficult.

Features of raising dogs

Consider your actions in raising your pet. Perhaps you haven't been paying enough attention to commands. If you have not taught your puppy to walk alongside you without pulling on the leash, then it will become more difficult to retrain him as an adult.
It is possible that you have adopted an older dog that does not understand commands at all. In this case, you do not lose your temper with the animal, pulling back the leash every time. Begin patiently training your four-legged pet without unnecessary aggression, then the result will not be long in coming.
When walking, go in the direction you want, not where the dog wants you to go. Release the leash slightly and allow the animal to sniff the area, do not allow more. Continue moving in the direction you want. If your pet accompanies its owner along the way, praise him.
When the dog gets comfortable in the new place and gets used to you, start working on commands with him. After this, go for long walks. If your pet is afraid of other animals or people, while thrashing about on a leash, try to distract him with a toy or a learned command.

Do not resort to training the animal by pulling the leash. This technique is unacceptable and is described in many dog training manuals. By exerting physical pressure, the pet remembers the fact that if the leash is loosened, you will be able to influence it. As a result, the dog reaches forward more than before, wanting to avoid punishment.

Video: how to stop a dog from pulling on a leash

How to stop a dog from biting and is it possible if we're talking about not about the puppy? Let us immediately note that with consistent and regular work, anything is possible. Let's figure out how to stop a puppy and an adult dog from biting.

Dogs have lived alongside humans for centuries. Even if you don’t delve into materials on history and cynology, you can guess that dogs would have been exterminated as a species if they really threatened humans. The truth is that four-legged animals bring too many benefits, which is why people tamed the dog, learned to raise and train it.

There are no naturally aggressive dogs. All puppies are born cute little ones who are eager to communicate and love to play. During the first year of life, the dog gains experiences that will influence the formation of its character. Just like humans, dogs have developed ways to communicate with each other. Since four-legged animals cannot talk, they had to learn more difficult language, which includes sounds, gestures, body position, expression of the muzzle, ears and eyes.

Dogs tend to bite as they express feelings, intentions, and even positive emotions. The mother constantly licks the puppies, and when they grow up, she allows herself to bite them a little and grab them by the withers. Of course, all this happens for educational purposes or in order to protect the offspring, but the essence does not change - puppies from a very early age get used to the fact that biting is normal.

In games and for the purpose of communication, dogs most often grab each other by the withers. In the process of evolution, the skin on the withers of dogs has become thicker, rougher and has practically lost nerve endings. Therefore, when one dog grabs another by the withers, both animals do not experience much discomfort.

From a very early age, your puppy needs to be made aware that your skin is much more sensitive and that bites are unpleasant to you. Of course, the baby does not bite painfully; he may look funny or let his teeth in while playing. However, do not forget to express negative emotions in response to the bite, the puppy will grow up and will grab your hands more and more, not seeing anything wrong with it.

Inexperienced owners believe that there are dogs that simply do not tend to bite. Such conclusions are made based on observations of other people's dogs. However, if you observe a pet that does not bite its owner or behaves very gently, most likely it is simply raised correctly.

Advice: try not to miss the moment of education, since puppies react much more sensitively to the owner’s emotions.

It is more difficult to wean an adult dog from biting, since the habit is already “rooted”, and the pet itself does not react so sharply to the owner’s negative emotions. Working with older dogs is complicated by several other aspects: size and strength. You need to be aware that even a light bite from a large and strong pet is enough to cause serious injury.

Types of bites

Bite to bite is different. Bites are divided into types:

Grip– the dog opens its mouth, clasps an arm or leg, but does not clench its jaws. The dog's grip is used for communication and most often serves to express positive emotions, namely affection. The grip is typical for pointing dogs during play.
Soft bite– the dog makes a grip with a slight closure of the jaw. This behavior is usually accompanied by a playful mood. Many puppies and even adult dogs love to pretend to fight.
Bite– single grip with jaw closure of varying intensity. Most often, single bites express the dog’s fear, that is, they accompany a passive defensive reaction. After a single bite, the dog tries to quickly get rid of it.
Grip– a single bite, characteristic of some breeds of dogs (fighting, service). The meaning of a grip is to hold the subject. This type of bite was deliberately instilled in the guards and guard dogs. Usually the dog uses a grip on strangers and animals, giving yourself or the owner a few seconds to make further decisions.
Attack– a series of bites . Typically, a dog bites by intercepting and moving towards the body (neck). Serial attack is common to most dog breeds.

In most cases, mild and mild dog bites are not intentional, especially when it comes to puppies and teenagers. IN in rare cases, experiencing strong fear The dog may inflict sporadic bites or display aggression. Even experts have a hard time distinguishing the difference between a single bite and a light grip. The problem is that the types of bites are interpreted according to the consequences, that is, according to the fact of the injuries caused.

Usually, when showing aggression, a dog does not bite easily, but also warns of its intentions. Before delivering a bite, the dog snarls, bares its teeth, you can notice that the hair on the withers rises, and the pet’s posture looks tense.

If you have the slightest suspicion that your dog is biting due to aggression, it is recommended that you immediately contact a qualified dog handler and solve the problem before it leads to tragedy.

How to prevent bites

All puppies explore the world using biting and chewing as a means of communication. The puppy tastes everything that interests him and it is almost impossible to avoid this. Naturally, the baby will play with the owner and grab his hands if these actions do not overlap.

While the puppies are close to their mother, they play with each other, imitating fighting and biting. After moving to new house It is difficult for a child to readjust and accept new rules, so upbringing should be gentle and consistent.

From the first day in a new home, every effort must be made to teach the dog to restrain the urge to bite and rude behavior. The literature on dog training describes quite a lot of methods for raising puppies, but some of them turn out to be completely unworkable. The problem is that the psyche of dogs is individual. Some puppies quickly learn from the experience, while others need several repetitions.

In any conditions, try to remember and follow the tips from this list:

Do not tease the dog with your hands or touch the pet's face during play - such actions not only provoke the dog to bite, but also give him a reason to consider a light grip as a desirable action.
Play with your dog regularly using non-contact methods - communication with the owner is very important in the process of raising a dog. The puppy must understand that he is loved and appreciated. Play with your puppy regularly by throwing him a ball or other toy. Don't forget to praise your mentee if he behaves correctly.
If the dog grabs your arm or leg, do not try to pull the limb away - when the puppy is already holding something in its mouth, vibration or a sharp jerk leads to a reflexive clenching of the jaw. Unclench the dog’s jaws with your free hand and free the limb, act calmly and confidently, you must first clearly give the command “fu”.

Never hit a dog if it is already holding you. Physical violence is an expression of aggression that prompts the dog to take more decisive action - attack or grab.

Be that as it may, your first and most important task- this is to let the puppy understand that your skin is much more sensitive than that of your pet’s relatives. When training a dog, especially service breed, it is important to place accents. The pet must clearly distinguish between play and work and understand that biting during fun is unacceptable.

Note! During training, for example, during detention, service dog must be able to bite, attack and hold.

The technique is called “bite inhibition training.” Simply put, to prevent a dog from biting as an adult, it must be taught to control its grip strength. puppyhood. The best and most natural way to learn is by playing with other dogs.

If you watch how your dog plays with his relatives on a walk, you will see that 80% of the time the dogs are chasing, jumping on each other, fighting and trying to grab the enemy. During the game, the dogs get carried away and allow themselves to bite their opponent harder. Naturally, the second dog will not tolerate violence and will fight back or give up, whine, or run away. While the animals are young and playful, all these situations occur in a staged form and rarely end in fights.

The natural learning process is just one aspect of why early socialization is so important. Walking in the company of other dogs, the puppy learns and acquires new skills, imitating adult and already trained dogs. Thanks to constant communication with its relatives, your pet learns to control its urges, intensity of actions and physical activity. Even if the four-legged animals are very angry, they do not pursue the goal of harming each other.

If you watch dogs play a few times, the training method will become obvious. Pets who like to play with their hands should do the same. Play with your dog until he bites your arm or leg until you feel pressure.

As soon as the bite occurs, you begin to squeal and whine, feigning pain, depression and reluctance to continue the game. If the dog attacks your legs, start limping or drop to your knees. Use all your acting talent to shock your pet and make him understand that he has committed unacceptable actions.

What to do if the puppy does not respond to whining and squealing and continues to attack? In this case, you need to remember who the leader of the pack is. Abruptly change the tone of your voice, say loudly: ugh, go back and stop the game, moving away from your pet. Wait for the puppy to come on his own, and he will come!

When the puppy approaches you, do not react, keep a stern expression on your face, but do not say anything. As soon as the puppy licks you, lies down in front of you, or begins to apologize in other ways, change your anger to restraint, restrainedly pet your pet and send him back to his place.

The above method is considered the most in a natural way training, however it is not effective with dogs of choleric temperament. When a puppy begins to bite during play or out of joy, he is physically unable to switch to other emotions. No matter what emotions you show, the dog will think that this is a continuation of the game... and will continue to attack you.

With choleric dogs, work is done using a different method. The worst punishment for active dog is the cessation of activity. This method is called "time out". Proceed in the same way, wait for the bite with noticeable pressure, abruptly stop the game and order the dog to go to its place. If the puppy does not hear you, you need to take him by the collar and take him to the bed.

During this exercise, it is extremely important to remain completely calm and steadfast. When the dog is on the bed, give the command to lie down, place it and make sure that the pet remains in the lying position for at least a minute. By the way, this exercise will not only help you wean your puppy from biting, but will also help you develop endurance.

Advice: If the puppy gets up and runs away, return him to the bed and start the exercises again. At first, this method of training will take a lot of time, but it will allow the dog to understand that any unwanted actions will lead to negative consequences.

The time-out method works when correcting behavior of any type; its essence is that any positive action on your part stop as soon as the dog has committed negative action. If the puppy has mastered the science at home, but continues to behave badly on the street, the technique is adapted. For example, after being bitten outdoors, you can tie a leash to a tree, make the dog lie down, move away a little and make sure the pet remains in place for 10-60 seconds.

Once you have made progress and your pet stops biting, a time-out should be applied every time the dog's teeth touch your skin. It is important to take your time and act consistently so that your pet does not feel undue pressure. As mentioned above, the timeout technique helps develop endurance. If the dog gets into a rage, plays and does not pay attention to you, get up abruptly and leave the room.

It is advisable to keep an eye on your pet through the gap in the doorway to prevent the destruction of your things “on emotions”. If the puppy switches aggression to your personal belongings, sharply say fu and send the dog to its place with a command. In such a situation, it is very important to ensure that your orders are carried out. That is, it is not enough to stop the action; it is necessary to bring the matter to an end - to send the dog to the bed and keep it on it.

Advice: To protect things from dog attacks, you can play on a long leash. This way, even after leaving the room, you will control your pet’s actions.

What to do if soft methods don't work?

What to do if your dog continues to bite despite everything Taken measures? The bite is unacceptable action, even if the dog has mental problems. If non-contact manipulations do not help, you can try to discourage your dog from biting with bad tastes and smells. Let us immediately note that the widespread advice about using pepper is very unreasonable. Red and even black pepper can cause irreparable harm dog's sense of smell.

Four-legged animals really don’t like the smell and taste of citrus fruits, tea tree, mint and other herbs with a strong aroma. If your dog regularly attacks his arms and legs, you should try using aromatic oil. If the dog continues to bite, you can rub lemon juice on the skin.

There is also a more stringent, most often disposable, method of weaning a dog from biting. It is not recommended to use unless you have tried everything alternative methods. Peppermint mouth freshener is used as leverage. As soon as the dog bites you, you need to make an exclamation (whining, squealing) and spray the air freshener directly into the dog’s mouth. It is important to ensure that the stream is directed strictly into the mouth and that traces of the aerosol do not get into the eyes. Experience shows that a single application of the spray is sufficient.

If you have tried all the methods in this article and your dog continues to bite, you need to seek professional help. As the experience of dog handlers shows, problems with bites are most often associated not with the character of the dog, but with the wrong approach on the part of the owner. The main goal of dog handlers is to teach the dog owner to defend the status of leader and control the pet.

The dog needs to bite

Once you have achieved that the dog has stopped biting your arms and legs, it is too early to stop. Let's return to the first section - four-legged animals need to bite to express emotions. Once your puppy has stopped biting you during play and in all other situations, he needs to be taught certain etiquette.

Use rubber toys or special chew bones to attract your pet's attention. Tease your puppy a little and praise him as soon as he starts chewing the toy. When using this method, you need to make sure that your pet always has an item that is allowed to chew. To ensure that the puppy does not lose interest in toys, they must be changed periodically. Old toys must be put out of reach, and new ones (or previously hidden ones) must be given to the dog. It is advisable to make such changes every 2-3 days, periodically replenishing the assortment with new toys.

Tip: Try to provide your dog with a constant supply of chew toys while his teeth are changing.

Many temperamental dogs grab the owner's hand after petting. If your pet responds to stroking and touching with a soft bite, he needs to be distracted with a treat. When petting your dog with one hand, you need to hold the treats in the fist of your other hand and hold them in front of your pet’s nose.

Most effective method avoiding bites, even unintentional ones, is to accustom the dog to non-contact forms of games. All puppies and even adult dogs love to play. If you throw a ball to your pet, he will not have the need to grab your hands with his teeth. After a complete change of teeth, you can play tug-of-war with your puppy - this is an excellent method of training muscles without contact with your hands.

Important! While tugging until your puppy is 6-8 months old, your job is simply to hold the toy. Do not pull, much less yank, on the toy while the dog is holding it with his teeth.

Dogs with a particularly active temperament should be trained as early as possible. Use whatever methods your dog responds to. Combine training with the time-out method until the dog learns to stay in place for 1 minute. Some puppies do not bite their owners' hands, but often attack their owners' legs. This type of expression of emotions is quite difficult to fight. On the one hand, such behavior indicates that the puppy sees you as the leader of the pack, and on the other hand, constant biting is very unpleasant.

Judging by the experience of the owners, there is really only one working method. Invest in some rubber toys that squeak when squeezed. Always keep such a toy in your pocket or on hand when moving around your home. If you notice that the puppy has started to hunt, stop immediately, take out the toy and start squeaking. As soon as the dog turns its attention to the source of the sound, throw the toy in the direction of the bed.

In the most optimal scenario, the dog will grab the toy and go to the place to chew it to his heart's content. In any case, as soon as your pet reacts to the toy, praise him. This technique is called distraction, it helps to redirect the dog’s attention and consolidate positive emotions into the game rather than the attack.

Important! If your dog attacks your legs solely when putting on clothes, this behavior must be strictly discouraged.

The problem is that the dog attacks in a moment of weakness - when you are busy and distracted. This is no longer a game, but an attempt to dominate - to overthrow the leader and take his place.

If a leash is a means of control, then a tight leash during a walk is ignoring basic rules of behavior, isn’t it? Some owners consider this “defect” to be insignificant, attributing it to the dog’s activity or curiosity. You can meet owners who are proud of their restless friend, justifying the tight leash with determination and fearlessness. In fact, any behavioral defect is associated with a lack of upbringing. It's quite easy to wean your dog off the leash and make walks more comfortable. All you need is to work with your mentee and stop making common mistakes.

Really, in some situations, pulling the leash “to the point of cracking” is regarded as the norm. However, we are talking about working four-legged animals that are taught to give signals to the trainer. Some breeds tend to instinctively pull on the leash, but this does not mean that walks should turn into a traumatic adventure. Before corrective training, it is necessary to separate the “cutlets from the flies”, since the pet must clearly understand your motivation. The dog pulls on the leash instinctively in the following situations:

Fright and attempt to escape.
Aggression and attempted attack.
A pet of a draft (sled) breed that has not been trained to walk correctly.
Guide dog indicating the trajectory of movement.
A dog working in the search field and “attacking” the scent.

The situation when an attached pet rejoices at the owner is not included in the list, since it has emotional overtones. So, The behavior of the four-legged dog must be corrected if the tension on the leash is not related to specific goals.

Important! Normally, during a normal walk, the leash should sag a little, but not drag on the ground.

What goals does a dog pursue when pulling on a leash?

Do you think that your pet proves nothing by pulling you along for a walk? You are wrong! Disobedience to the owner is always a protest, but the goals and consequences of incorrect behavior can be different:

A puppy running in front of its owner establishes itself as a leader. He decides where you go and what you do. Such behavior is permissible only at the stage of accustoming to a leash and collar.

An older dog shows disrespect for its owner, subordinating him to your desires.

You risk a shoulder injury. Monotonous tension is already harmful to the ligaments and joints, but what happens if the pet decides to make a sharp jerk?

The pet may be injured– the collar provides constant pressure on the trachea and makes breathing difficult. With time, mild condition hypoxia becomes habitual for the dog and it pulls the leash even harder. As a result, a simple walk turns into repeated suffocation with coughing and wheezing when breathing.

Read also: What to do if your dog runs away while walking: 6 simple rules

How do you encourage pulling on the leash?

Before blaming your pet, analyze what you personally did to accustom your tailed animal to inappropriate behavior. Surely you did not try to wean the puppy from pulling on the leash and this became a problem only when the dog grew up and became stronger. Perhaps you adopted a grown-up or adult dog that is not accustomed to tackling and immediately began to scold your pet for disobedience. Of course, you need to raise a four-legged one, but first, get rid of your own bad habits:

You are walking, not you- this means you do not go in the direction where the dog is pulling! We lower the leash to its maximum length, giving the dog room to sniff, but no more. We move only in the direction you have chosen and encourage the dog to follow your example.

Overexcited behavior, aggression, cowardice, leash rushing and harsh barking should not be encouraged. You must distract the dog, redirect its attention to a toy or commands.

Forget about jerking! In many dog training manuals, there is a parforce or tug method where the dog is punished or stimulated physical impact. In the case of tensioning the leash, this is a disastrous idea, especially if we are talking about adult dog. To make a jerk, you need to slightly release the tension on the collar and jerk. The pet learns the following: if the collar is not constantly pulled, it means that the jerk will be unpleasant for me. Consequences – the dog tries even harder and pulls on the leash, avoiding punishment.

Read also: How and what to feed a mongrel puppy: menu by age

Weaning your dog from pulling on the leash while walking

It's never too late to get rid of bad habits, but you need to start by eradicating the causes. There is an opinion that a person can develop a new skill by forcing himself to repeat the same action for 21 days. With dogs everything is much simpler; the habit goes away as soon as the ward realizes a more comfortable alternative. If you think that your four-legged dog likes to be strangled on a leash every walk, you are mistaken. The dog is just as uncomfortable as you are, but she doesn’t see a way out of the situation.

Important! In any training, consistency is important; every wrong action of the pet should lead to a suppressive reaction from the owner. It may take 10–14 days to correct behavior.

Choosing ammunition

You cannot achieve success without the right accessories! Even if it’s trivial, choose a comfortable, wide enough collar to suit the size of your pet. Believing that causing discomfort can speed up learning, owners buy chains or leather cords instead of collars - this is the wrong tactic. On the shelves of pet stores you can find many accessories that are convenient only at first glance. Let's look at the main types of ammunition:

Leash– a strong ribbon with a loop and a carabiner at the ends. Leashes are divided into short, medium and loose. A loose leash (10–12 m) is used for training; a medium leash is suitable for walking.

Roulette– a very convenient, but destructive accessory for learning. The principle of roulette is to keep the leash taut. The advantage is that the tape does not drag on the ground and the dog does not get confused in it.

Leash-handle– a strong and short cord with a strong arm loop and a carabiner. Used for side-by-side walking, not suitable for remedial training.

Parfors collar (strict)– if you want to train, but not force the dog to behave correctly, the accessory is also not suitable. The use of parforce is relevant only in exceptional cases.

Choke collar- a loop that tightens and strangles the dog when the leash is pulled. Fair remedy for adults, large and not trained dogs.

Halter– an underrated accessory that has an effect not on the neck, but on the dog’s face when the leash is pulled. A halter is not a muzzle, but a corrective accessory that helps teach a dog to walk correctly without causing discomfort and pain.

ESH (electric shock collar)– usually has 2 modes: vibration and shock. A vibration is a warning, a blow is a punishment. Use is relevant if inappropriate behavior really threatens the dog itself or others.

Harness– a convenient accessory for trained dogs that does not restrict movement when walking.

Every dog, regardless of origin, has a number of bad habits, caused not only by innate instincts, but also physiological needs. One of these habits that does not please the owner four-legged friend, it should be called damage to various items (from slippers to antique furniture) through sharp teeth.

One of the most affordable items for your dog's teeth is a leash. And very often the owner does not attach much importance to the fact that this canine attribute is often in the pet’s mouth. And the dog, thus, can express its dissatisfaction in physical activity, the duration of walks or the lack of positive emotions.

Therefore, the owner should not only pay attention to this fact, but also try to correct the situation. At the same time, you should not allow the dog to splash out on aggression or become excessively playful at the sight of the leash. Information on how to stop a dog from chewing a leash can be found in specialized literature or on websites dedicated to dog breeding. But it wouldn’t hurt to consult with professional dog handlers.

First of all, the habit of chewing on a leash indicates an inattentive attitude towards the dog, so weaning should begin gradually, changing the behavioral line towards the animal: you should not constantly hold the dog on a walk while walking. short leash, give her more time to run and frolic on her own. Perhaps the problem will go away on its own.

But sometimes a dog tries to manipulate its owner through a leash. If the owner began to play with the dog or let him off the leash at the first attempt to grab it with his teeth, then the animal will remember this as a conditioned signal to the person.

Therefore, you can wean yourself off this by putting a muzzle on the dog, which is not always correct, or by teaching your pet to carry some kind of toy in its teeth. The dog first becomes acquainted with a leash as a puppy, when the owner gradually tries to accustom it to a collar and also to walk on a leash. The puppy chews on the leash, trying to free itself from the constraining movement of the object, wants to remove it.

You should not scold, much less beat, the puppy while he is busy with this process. It is also not recommended to remove the leash at this moment, otherwise the puppy will get the impression of victory not only over this new and unpleasant object, but also over the owner.

The puppy should gradually get used to wearing a collar and walking on a leash. It is recommended to fasten the leash at the moment when the puppy is playing or eating, so as not to attract special attention, and it should also be removed when the puppy is distracted and has forgotten about this accessory.

You should not leave your dog with a leash on unattended, in order to prevent not only its damage, but also damage possible injuries puppy (if the leash gets tangled or caught on something).