When can you introduce fish into a new aquarium? How to properly start an aquarium for the first time. How to plant aquarium plants
The launch of a new aquarium is carried out after all the decorations, soil, and plants have been purchased. This process, contrary to popular belief, does not begin with the purchase of fish and involves five preparatory stages. The lion's share of success depends on acquiring all the necessary equipment. It must be of high quality and resistant to wear, since some systems will operate around the clock.
Selection rules
Starting an aquarium from scratch should begin with choosing the container itself. If the aquarist is a beginner, it is preferable to choose medium-sized models, the volume of which varies from 80 to 200 liters. This step will make it easier to maintain biological balance compared to small containers. The step-by-step starting up of the aquarium described below will help avoid problems.
Filter
All filters are divided into two large categories - external and internal. Beginners who are starting an aquarium from scratch are recommended to purchase good internal ones, which will also save money. Manufacturers indicate how much water the filter is designed for, so it’s almost impossible to make a mistake. However, experts recommend choosing such equipment with a small margin.
Heater with thermostat
This device maintains a comfortable temperature for all participants in the system. Manufacturers also indicate the recommended volume on the packaging. When starting an aquarium from scratch, the choice is usually not difficult.
Lighting
Special beam spectrum - important condition for the full existence of aquatic plants. They grow well under special purpose lamps with intense lighting. On average, one liter of water requires a power of 0.6 V, that is, at least 60 V per hundred liters, and better yet, all 90.
When starting an aquarium from scratch, it should be taken into account that the daylight hours should be the same. Automation (special timers) copes well with this.
Background
Experienced aquarists recommend giving preference to a special film of black or dark blue color; you can also stretch a fabric of the required shade onto the tablet, commensurate with the parameters of the rear window. This kind of background will perfectly highlight the beauty. Cheesy glossy photographic backgrounds are not the best choice; launching an aquarium with plants can be ruined.
Carbonation system
During the daytime, carbon dioxide is needed for all vegetation in the system to grow, especially if there are a lot of fish present. It is recommended to pay close attention to CO2 parameters. It is recommended to install a saturation system after stabilization of the biological balance, including when starting an aquarium with plants.
Cabinet
The product must be durable. The weight of a hundred-liter aquarium is 140 kg. You can purchase a special cabinet or adapt existing furniture. The aquarium, the photo of which is presented below, is installed on the stand correctly.
Launch. Stage one: verification
First of all, you need to determine whether the container is leaking. To do this, it is placed in a bathtub, preferably on a flat surface. The aquarium is filled with running water to half the volume, and after a day it is completely filled. Such a test is carried out in containers of any capacity - this is the only way to understand whether the glass will burst and whether the product will survive the first launch. After checking, the water is drained, it is better to wash the container. The aquarium is installed on a stand.
Launch. Stage two: soil
As a rule, the soil is represented by fine gravel, which is suitable for most plants. Before placing it in the aquarium, it is better to carry out heat treatment, for example, boiling. After this, most of the soil is mixed with starting fertilizer.
The base is carefully laid out on the bottom in an even layer, the height of which should not be less than 4 cm. In some cases, it is advisable to arrange an uneven layer: small at the front glass, gradually rising towards the rear wall. It is better to immediately plan the places where the plants will be placed. At this stage, it is important to do everything correctly in order to avoid subsequent modifications. When choosing a place where the plantings will be located, it is better to focus on lighting and distance from heating devices. Artificial and natural decorations are placed on the ground.
Launch. Stage three: equipment installation
A heater-thermostat and a pump with a filter are connected to the aquarium. The equipment remains unconnected for now.
Launch. Stage four: planting
When placing living vegetation, the following recommendations should be followed:
- Large plantings are placed near the back wall.
- It is customary to plant smaller specimens in the middle part.
- In the foreground are the smallest ones, they will be closest to the observer.
Beginners should choose inexpensive, hardy plants such as valisneria or hornwort. Such specimens help to quickly establish balance, after which they can be replaced. In addition, to accelerate the stabilization of the biological balance, you can use a special bacterial starter. It is introduced into the water according to the instructions. When planting, plants should be constantly sprayed with a spray bottle.
Launch. Stage five: filling with water and connecting
The simplest water you can use is tap water. It must sit for the chlorine to completely evaporate. If you don't want to wait, you can buy bottled drinking water.
To prevent soil erosion, a saucer is placed on its bottom. The flow of incoming water must fall precisely on it. The aquarium is completely filled. Then you can turn on the equipment. It is necessary to immediately check how the filters, heating function, and what temperature level is established in the system. The filter must work all the time and cannot be turned off. After a few weeks, the device develops its own bacterial environment, which becomes a biological filter. If you turn it off, the bacteria will quickly die without the flow of oxygen and fresh water. Their place will be filled immediately anaerobic microorganisms, which produce hydrogen sulfide and methane - from them the entire system will cease to function.
The final inspection must take place seven days after launch. In the first days of operation, the water in the aquarium will become cloudy, as some of the plants will die off and bacteria will begin to multiply intensively. The activity of microorganisms will normalize this process over time, and we can talk about stabilization of the internal biosystem. Only then is the container ready to receive fish. It will take about a month to fully create an environment where every resident will feel good. There should be about 10 liters of water per fish.
How to launch fish
A week after the start, it is advisable to increase the aquarium lighting time to 12 hours. At this time, you can release unpretentious fish species in quantities not exceeding a third of the population allowed for such a population size. It is important that if started correctly, the fish should remain hungry at this time - this is absolutely harmless for them. Feeding can disrupt the nitrogen cycle, leading to the need for a restart. The fish will be able to get food after four days.
In a few more days, the aquarium may be populated with half the population. During this period, you can introduce more fastidious fish. After seven days, you can release all the fish.
If your home has soft water, you should choose those inhabitants who prefer this pH level, and vice versa. The aquarium, the photo of which is presented below, was launched absolutely correctly and delights with its beauty.
Marine type
Starting a new aquarium can be difficult if it is a marine type. All stages are similar to the previous ones, but water requires special preparation. It must be treated with reverse osmosis, after which it settles for three days. After this, the salt concentration is adjusted to the required level.
When the optimal salt balance, density and water temperature are achieved, you can fill in the soil: sand or coral chips. Next, you can place living stones in the system, plant corals, and decorate the bottom with shells. After a week, you should check the nitrite and ammonium levels in the water. A month after water treatment, it is possible to introduce fish into a marine aquarium.
Rules for a successful aquarist
- it is necessary to purchase only healthy fish from trusted stores;
- fish should not be overfed;
- It is better to regularly check how all systems are working;
- fish must have sufficient living space;
- fish living in the same system must be compatible;
- nitrogen cycle support;
- periodic filter cleaning;
- even a beginner needs to know what water hardness, pH, buffer capacity are;
- Regular partial water changes are necessary, even if the aquarium was first started less than two weeks ago.
Instead of a conclusion
A quick start of the aquarium in 99% of cases does not lead to the desired results; a repeated preparation cycle is often required. A novice aquarist must be patient so that the system can stabilize and function fully.
The question of how to prepare an aquarium for launch has become very relevant lately. Many families want beautiful fish that will swim surrounded by vegetation. However, maintaining the system requires some effort from the owner, which is best taken into account when deciding to install an aquarium. In addition, we must not forget about the need for ongoing costs to maintain the system, including the purchase of fish food, replacement filters, etc.
Don’t rush to plant the fish right away, let the aquarium “settle” and
plants to take root. It is best to introduce fish somewhere between 4-9 days.
Do not plant a lot of fish at once, it is better to launch them in batches with a break
between replantings 4-5 days.
The home for your fish is ready. If everything is done correctly, measuredly and with soul,
then in the future the aquarium will only bring you a lot of pleasant
emotions.
Good luck and success!
FanFishka.ru thanks
author of the article - Yana Terekhova,
for the provided material and cooperation! Video about the launch of the aquarium
Video of a large, beautiful aquarium
Starting an aquarium from A to Z
There are a huge number of articles on the Internet dedicated to starting an aquarium. On our website there are also similar articles telling about installing an aquarium, about the launch of a large aquarium, about starting an aquarium as a beginner, and about the first month of the aquarium's life. These materials are certainly useful, however, they are narrowly focused. In this connection, there is a need to write full-scale material that would serve as instructions and guidance for action for beginners.
Let's first determine the goals and objectives, the stages of starting an aquarium, as well as the equipment base and aquarium chemistry that will be needed.
The main goal is to show the novice aquarist that “the aquarium devil is not scary, as he is painted”! Additional, but no less important goals:
Show what beautiful aquarium With plants, everyone can handle it! That it is not difficult to create and maintain.
Give step by step instructions.
Teach a beginner to “see his aquarium” and develop an unconventional way of thinking about aquariums.
Create a beautiful aquarium herbalist.
Show the dynamics of the development of the aquarium: one month, three months, six months.
When arranging an aquarium, use the maximum possible palette of aquarium plants, which will make it possible to see the development of an individual plant and its reaction to a particular action.
Despite the abundance of plants that will be used, show the basics of aquascape - the basics of hardscape, the rules for using driftwood and stones when building an aquarium composition.
Show the procedure, the basics of caring for an aquarium, and also give a workshop on the use of aquarium preparations when starting up and later life aquarium with live plants.
Coverage of related issues, nuances and tricks.
Equipment that will be used in the review
Aquarium complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L;
External filter Tetra EX 600 Plus;
Aquarium cabinet Tetra AquaArt 60l;
Aquarium chemistry:
Tetra SafeStart, Tetra AquaSafe, Tetra EasyBalance
Tetra Bactozym
Tetra range of fertilizers for aquarium plants
+Tetra Balance Balls
Aquarium installation:
- choosing a location for the aquarium;
Installation and installation of an aquarium cabinet;
Starting an aquarium:
Laying the aquarium substrate and soil;
Basics of hardscape (arrangement of stones and snags);
Planting (aquascape basics);
Use of starting chemistry;
Features of keeping an aquarium with plants: nuances and tricks;
Caring for the aquarium after launch:
Correct setting of biological balance;
Aquarium care in the first month;
Use of plant fertilizers;
Aquarium lighting (daylight mode);
Temperature conditions for the aquarium;
AQUARIUM INSTALLATION
This stage is quite simple and understandable, however, a number of beginners make fatal mistakes at the very early stage of creating an aquarium world.
Below, let's look at the rules for installing an aquarium:
The aquarium is installed in an area where there is no direct sunlight;
The aquarium is installed away from passages and doors. The best place is a corner of the room or a niche.
The aquarium should not be placed on unstable surfaces.
The aquarium should not be installed near central heating radiators, near other heating devices, in close proximity to household appliances, or on a windowsill.
The aquarium is installed taking into account the convenient placement of power outlets.
The aquarium looks aesthetically pleasing and comfortable on a specialized aquarium stand.
Educational film about starting an aquarium for beginners
And so we chose the place. We proceed to the actual installation of the aquarium. In this review we used an aquarium stand Tetra AquaArt 60l. white. This cabinet was delivered in durable, branded packaging and despite the fact that it was delivered by a transport company from Moscow, all its components, including the glass door, were safe and sound. The cabinet itself is standard, with two shelves and a specially designed rear wall for convenient supply of aquarium equipment. The cabinet is easy to assemble. The kit includes a full set of accessories. And what was especially pleasing: the kit included the necessary furniture key. Probably, many of our readers have encountered the problem of lack of keys when purchasing furniture; this forced them to run around hardware stores in search of the required hex key. In this case, there was no such problem; the cabinet was assembled in 20 minutes.
The next step is to install the tube in the chosen location.
IMPORTANT!!! Any tube, any surface on which the aquarium will stand must be leveled using a building level. The larger the aquarium, the more carefully you need to approach this issue. Any deviation of the aquarium from the horizontal is fraught with uneven load on one or another wall of the aquarium.
It should also be noted that the aquarium tube should not be installed close to the walls. It is necessary to maintain indentations for convenient supply of cords and hoses to the aquarium.
Installation of an aquarium. In this review we will install an aquarium complex. This complex includes all the necessary equipment that is needed to start an aquarium:
- aquarium tray;
- convenient aquarium lid;
- lighting + reflector;
Internal mounted filter;
Heater;
The aquarium itself is 60 liters. net volume;
And also two bottles of starting chemicals (TetraAquaSafe, EasyBalance) + TetraMin food.
Of course, all these components can be purchased separately. In this case, Tetra relieves the beginner from the difficult choice of aquarium equipment - everything is ready to go!
Procedure for installing an aquarium:
The aquarium needs to be unpacked. Remove the cover. Remove all components of the complex.
Check the walls and edges of the aquarium for cracks and chips that could have occurred during transportation of the aquarium from the store to home.
Next, if necessary, you need to paste the background. If film is used as a background, the easiest way to attach it is to secure it with transparent tape to the outer back wall of the aquarium. Please note that the film must be attached to a dry surface. The film is secured with tape on all sides! This will save you from distortion of the background image caused by moisture getting between the glass and the background. For more information, see the article - how to glue an aquarium background?
We install the aquarium on the cabinet. The bottom of the aquarium should be completely on the surface of the cabinet. Afterwards, we check again with a building level whether the aquarium is installed level.
LAUNCHING THE AQUARIUM
After the preparatory activities, the most enjoyable stage begins - launching the aquarium.
Laying the aquarium substrate and soil.
A novice aquarist needs to take the issue of laying the substrate and soil very seriously. After all, they play a vital role in the life of plants and the aquarium as a whole. The aquarium bottom substrate is both a source of nutrition for plants and a natural biological filter in which colonies of beneficial nitrifying bacteria settle.
The question of choosing a substrate and primer is specific, individual and depends on many factors. It is impossible to give a clear recommendation. Each aquarist, based on his own needs, must personally determine for himself what kind of substrate and what kind of soil he will need in a particular case. Below, we will try to highlight those aspects that a beginner should definitely pay attention to:
1. It is necessary to distinguish the substrate for the aquarium from the aquarium soil. The substrate is a nutrient substrate that contains the necessary nutritional elements that the plant absorbs through the root system. Soil is a substrate that may also contain useful elements, but its main function is to cover the bottom of the aquarium.
2. The nutrient substrate is used only under the root system of aquarium plants. It should not be laid on the entire surface of the aquarium bottom, if the plants, say, will only be located in the corner, in which case, the substrate is laid only in the corner. Or, for example, if you have a small number of plants, 5-10 pieces, you can and even need to do without a substrate.
You can often see the following dialogue on aquarium forums:
« Newbie: I used such and such a substrate and planted 5 plants.
Forum member's answer: I hope you have an algae outbreak and greening of the aquarium. Since the substrate will emit a lot of radiation in the first month.”
What does it mean? All aquarium substrates are a nutrient substrate, in simple language- this is “earth, black soil”. The compositions of the substrates are different and the concentration of fertilizers in them is different.
From the above, we can conclude that before you buy a substrate, you need to clearly understand what exactly will be in your aquarium. If you put a substrate in an aquarium and do not plant the aquarium with a sufficient number of plants, then the substrate will “fog”, that is, it will release nutrients into the empty one, which will cause an outbreak of algae - the lowest of the aquarium world.
3. If a small number of plants will be used in the design of the aquarium, you can feed them through the root system without a substrate. For example, placing tablets under the roots of plants Tetra PlantaStart And . This will be quite enough for plants.
4. The soil for aquarium plants must be light, porous, and it must be checked for “hissing”. For more details, see the article - soil and nutrient substrate for aquarium plants.
In this article we will use a substrate. In our opinion, this substrate is optimal for a beginner aquarist. It is balanced, contains all the necessary world elements and at the same time will protect the beginner from excessive concentration of fertilizers in the aquarium.
In addition, this substrate from Tetra, unlike others, can always be found in any city, in any pet store.
So, open the bucket, pour out the substrate and, using a ruler or construction spatula, distribute it evenly along the bottom of the aquarium. Please note: if the substrate is distributed over the entire area of the aquarium, you should try to distribute it so that at the front wall of the aquarium the thickness of the substrate is minimal (1-2 cm), and at the back wall of the aquarium, on the contrary, it is greater. This is done, firstly, in order to visually add volume to the aquarium, and, secondly, as a rule, plants are not planted in the foreground (with the exception of ground cover plants).
After the substrate has been laid, you can additionally make a layer of preparations that will “strengthen” it and/or make the aquarium substrate more “attractive” for colonies of nitrifying bacteria:
Crush a few tablets Tetra PlantaStart and scatter them evenly along the bottom, reinforcing the substrate;
- distribute the granules Tetra InitialSticks;
Apply granules Tetra Nitrate Minus Pearls;
Dispense the required number of capsules Tetra Bactozym.
You can even use crumbs tourmaline.
At the same time, we draw the reader’s attention to the individuality of each aquarium. All of the above drugs can be used both together and separately.
For example, when starting the aquarium in this review, we did not use Tetra NitrateMinus Pearl because in the future we will use the new Tetra Balance Balls. We also took into account the fact that nitrate (NO3), although they are poison and the last link in the nitrogen cycle chain, at the same time NO3 is an important macro-fertilizer for plants. We also did not use Tetra InitialSticks, this was done intentionally, firstly, in order to protect ourselves from possible excessive concentration of fertilizers in the first month, and secondly, it was decided to use Tetra PlantaStart and Tetra Crypto to feed the plants, through root system and, thirdly, we will use liquid fertilizers, Tetra Planta Pro Macro, and . In this way and with such actions, we push the herbalist’s care of our aquarium to a more complex, but at the same time more “advanced” level - transferring it “to manual mode”, when we ourselves, based on the behavior of the aquarium, will adjust: increase or decrease the concentration one or another fertilizer.
Before laying the soil, we only scattered Tetra Bactozym capsules. You can read a detailed description of this drug by following the link given above. Here we will briefly say that Tetra Bactozyme is a drug that promotes the rapid growth of beneficial nitrifying bacteria; the drug creates an invisible film on which the bacteria “populate” and feed on it. By scattering Tetra Bactozyme capsules onto the substrate, we politely invite beneficial bacteria to quickly settle in the soil.
We proceed to the next stage - laying the soil. It is carried out according to the same rules as for the substrate (the thickness of the front wall is less). Let us just pay attention to the fact that not every soil is suitable for plants!!! Soil for aquarium plants must meet the following criteria:
1. It should be light - this will contribute to the good development of the plant root system.
2. Must be sloping - this will negate possible education oxygen-free zones and eliminates the likelihood of soil and substrate acidification.
3. Must be porous - this will contribute to the development of a larger population of beneficial bacteria in the soil.
4. The soil should not “hiss.”
The soil meets all of the above requirements. This soil is a new product in the Tetra line of products and preparations for aquarium plants. That is why we will use it and test it in practice.
The basics of hardscape are the arrangement of stones and driftwood.
Harscape is the skeleton of aquarium design, manipulation of decorative elements until the aquarium is filled with water. For more details, see the article - Hardscape in aquarium design.
Any aquarium is a corner of wildlife, a microcosm that lives according to the laws and rules of Mother Nature. The harmony of the world is embodied in everything that we see in every bush and every branch. An aquarist must learn to see beauty and borrow its rules and laws from nature.
There are wonderful articles on our website that will help you take your first steps into the world of harmony; we strongly recommend that you read them:
AQUARIUM DESIGN, ORDER IN CHAOS!
STONE HARSCAPE
TAKASHI AMANO: PHOTO, CONCEPT, BIOGRAPHY
In this review, we used diabase as stones, and also used intricate driftwood as the main design element and surface for growing mosses.
The reader should pay attention to the fact that stones, just like the soil, should be checked for “hissing” - they should not increase the hardness of the water. Diabase is a volcanic rock and in different areas chemical composition of this stone is different - one diabase “fizzes”, the other does not. Be sure to try to check the “stone decor” with vinegar for hissing. “Sizzling” stones and “sizzling” soil can only be used in aquariums where there are no plants and for fish that like hard water, such as most African cichlids.
The issue of using driftwood also has its own nuances! They are described in detail in our form thread - Driftwood in an aquarium: how to prepare, soak, boil, dry, disinfect.
Here we note that you should not use the first log you come across in the aquarium. Take a closer look, choose a piece of driftwood, think about how it will look in the aquarium, how it will fit together in the overall aquarium composition.
Also, before implementing a design idea, we recommend that you make sketches of what you want (at least schematically) - this will greatly facilitate the implementation of the idea.
Planting plants in an aquarium.
In this review, we deliberately used an incredible number of different plants:
Salzman's Hediotis;
Blixa japonica;
Hemianthus micranthemoides;
Hemianthus monte carlo;
Marsilia;
Cryptocoryne parva;
Rotala indica;
Rotala Myanmar;
Bacopa carolina;
Ludwigia ovalis;
Ludwigia vulgaris, palustris;
Alternatera colorata ed;
Aponogeton viviparous;
Eleocharis vivipara;
Proserpinaka;
Hygrophila balsamica;
Pogostemon erectus;
Moss Phoenix;
Flamemoss;
Queen moss/S.P.;
Willow moss;
Java moss and others.
Such an abundance of plants justifies the use of a substrate and will allow us to show the reader that growing any plant, even the most whimsical one, is not such a difficult task. In the future, the list and number of plants will be adjusted.
Below are the general rules for planting:
The photo shows the rules for planting aquarium plants
1. Low-growing (ground cover) plants are planted in the foreground, long-stemmed plants in the background.
2. Before planting, the plants are processed, rotten leaves are removed, the roots are trimmed, leaving 2-3 cm.
3. Ground cover plants and low-growing plants are planted in wet soil (a little water is poured in), then the aquarium is further filled, and the middle and background plants are planted.
4. If a large number of plants are being planted (which can take a long time), you can use a spray bottle to periodically spray the already planted plants.
5. Large plants can be planted into the hole with your hands, ground cover with tweezers.
6. Plants with red pigment are placed in the most illuminated areas.
7. Mosses are tied to stones and snags with fishing line or thread.
After planting, we applied the required amount of Tetra PlantaStart under the roots of the plants with tweezers - the tablets promote the rooting and adaptation of the newly planted plant. Please note that these tablets can be divided into quarters and applied depending on the size of the bush.
Upon completion of planting, the aquarium was completely filled with water.
In conclusion of this section, it should be said that a novice aquarist should not be afraid of the suspension that can form in the aquarium in the first days. A slight cloudiness of the aquarium can be caused by dust from the soil (mechanical turbidity). Such dust will be filtered out within 3-7 days. Also, for the first time in the life of the aquarium, “biological turbidity” may form - the whiteness of the water; this turbidity is also not terrible and, on the contrary, tells the aquarist that biological processes have begun to actively work in the aquarium. This kind of dregs will also disappear in 3-7 days. For more details, see the article - Cloudy aquarium.
Sometimes, in the first month, whitish mucus may form on a piece of driftwood that has been drowned in an aquarium - this is organic matter, which is also not a terrible phenomenon, but it indicates that the piece of driftwood was not fully processed. Such mucus will disappear soon, but it can still be removed mechanically or, for example, by getting catfish Ancistrus, which will clean off this mucus.
Also, a novice aquarist should not worry that in an aquarium filled with water it will not be possible to add plants or change their location. In the future, you can make adjustments without much difficulty.
Additional materials for this section:
Aquarium Plants for Beginners
Aquarium herbalist
Using starting chemistry when starting an aquarium.
After the aquarium was filled with water, we introduced three basic starting preparations:
Tetra AquaSafe- binds heavy metals, completely neutralizes chlorine and creates environment, as close as possible to natural conditions fish habitat. Colloidal silver solution protects the mucous membranes of fish, and magnesium and vitamin B1 reduce the stress effect.
Tetra SafeStart- contains specially grown live nitrifying bacteria that reliably reduce the levels of toxic ammonia and nitrite in the aquarium.
Tetra EasyBalance- stabilizes pH and carbonate hardness (KH) of water, removes phosphorus, supplements with various vitamins, microelements and minerals, reduces the number of water changes. Provides a healthy habitat for your plants and fish in a freshwater aquarium.
These preparations are extremely necessary for maintaining the aquarium, especially in the first month. Their use is actually the key to success and absence of problems after launch. All these drugs have different directions, but together they most effectively adjust the biological balance in the aquarium.
Features of keeping an aquarium with plants, nuances and tricks.
So, we launched the aquarium! With every hour, every day, the aquarium begins to “ripen” - a new life begins! Millions of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, protozoa) begin to develop, plants begin to adapt, filtration and aeration of the aquarium are carried out, photons of light begin to nourish the plants, which in turn, in the process of photosynthesis, begin to release oxygen - you created this amazing world! And as a creator, you must understand that this world must develop, there must not be stagnation in it.
Below we will share “easy tricks” that you should learn and put into practice.
Since we have created an aquarium herbalist, we must clearly understand the components that are necessary for a comfortable life in an aquarium garden, here they are:
PROPER LIGHTING
FERTILIZERS
(CO2, micro and macro fertilizers)
CORRECT CARE
(correctly configured filtration, aeration)
PROPER LIGHTING
The issue of lighting an aquarium with live aquarium plants is important and extensive. Lighting is the key to good plant growth! It is important to understand this fact.
Our articles will help you understand all the intricacies of lighting for plants:
Aquarium lighting and lamp selection
DIY aquarium lighting
Reflectors in an aquarium
Of course, this material will be difficult for a beginner at first. But you just have to figure it out once and everything will fall into place.
It is worth noting that in fact, the issue with lighting is not a problem, it is only important to understand “what and how much” is needed specifically for your herbalist. And after that, you just need to purchase and install the selected option for additional lighting - this can be additional fluorescent lamps, connected through ballast or electronic starter, it could be LED Strip Light or LED panel, it could also be a MG LED spotlight.
In this review, we took into account the conditions of keeping our plants, calculated the required number of lumens and supplemented the standard aquarium refreshment. The issue was resolved in one day!
Be sure to study this issue, the above articles will help you with this.
FERTILIZERS FOR HERBALIST
In addition to lighting, plants need a complex of fertilizers, which they consume during photosynthesis. All fertilizers for aquarium plants can be divided into MACRO fertilizers, MICRO fertilizers and separately release CO2 (carbon dioxide).
All these fertilizers are presented in Tetra line.
Carbon dioxide is an important fertilizer for plants. The aquarist should first of all think about its sufficient quantity. This is due to the fact that micro and macro fertilizers, in one quantity or another, will always be present in the water even if they are not specifically added - they are in tap water, they are formed as a result of the vital activity of fish. But CO2, alas, will always be in short supply.
Enrichment of aquarium water with carbon dioxide is carried out in various ways:
MECHANICAL;
CHEMICAL;
FERMENTATION UNITS;
For more details, see the articles: CO2 for the aquarium, CO2 pros and cons.
In this review, we used a fermentation unit and Tetra CO2 Plus in our aquarium. And the point here is this: Tetra CO2 Plus, when added to aquarium water, breaks down into O2 (oxygen) and CO2 (carbon dioxide) in a form that is digestible for plants. There are no analogues of this drug, it is not pentandial - an algaecide, more aimed at combating algae rather than feeding plants with CO2. This is not poison: an overdose, which can cause the death of aquatic organisms.
At the same time, supplying CO2 through mash does not always give the desired result - over time, the intensity carbon dioxide in the brew it fades. In order to compensate for this uneven CO2 supply, we will add Tetra CO2 Plus based on the drop checker readings.
MICRO and MACRO fertilizers for the aquarium.
When growing the herbalist in our review, the following fertilizers were used:
Tetra PlanaMin
Tetra Planta Pro Macro
The PlantaPro series was developed by Tetra for professional plant care. If you are an amateur herbalist, then one Tera PlantaMin will be enough.
In the matter of micro and macro fertilizers, you should pay attention to the fact that their dosage is purely individual. The proportions for applying these fertilizers are not indicated by the manufacturer and will not be indicated by us either, because they are calculated for each herbalist aquarium individually, based on its volume and size, lighting power, number of plants and parameters of the water itself.
CORRECT CARE
Properly configured filtration in a planted aquarium
As previously mentioned, to the aquarium complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L All necessary basic equipment is included. The kit also includes an internal hanging filter, which is quite sufficient for high-quality filtration of aquarium water.
However, in our opinion, external filters are best suited for maintaining a herbalist’s aquarium. Firstly, because they do not take up space in the aquarium and do not interfere with the construction of the aquarium composition. Secondly, with the help of an external filter, better filtration of the aquarium is achieved. Thirdly, filtration through external filters is quiet in every sense: the filter itself is silent and the water flow that creates the filter is “quiet” and adjustable.
In our herbalist we used an external filter Tetra EX 600 Plus – The youngest in the Tetra line of external filters. Speaking about its quality characteristics, it should be said that this is a good filter, we have no complaints about it. Its equipment is standard. However, it is worth noting three points that were pleasantly pleasing:
1. Tetra EX 600 Plus – the youngest in the Tetra filter line. That is, it has minimal power and the ability to filter aquarium water over a certain period of time (liters/hour). Many manufacturers of external filters produce a series of “junior” filters with a minimum number of internal compartments, due to their compactness (1-2 compartments). In this case, the Tetra EX 600 Plus filter has three compartments, which is very convenient, as it makes it possible to use even more filter media.
2. Despite the fact that Tetra EX 600 Plus is the youngest in the series, it is capable of passing and filtering up to 630 liters per hour. Which is very respectable for similar filters (average value 400-550 l/h).
3. The flute (a nozzle for uniformly distributing the flow of water from the filter) is made of transparent plastic. This is very important for the herbalist’s aquarium, because... the tube does not interfere with aesthetics.
What else is good about an external filter for a herbalist? It makes it very convenient to regulate the air supply and CO2 supply. When there is no lighting in the aquarium, the filter flute rises above the water level and powerful jets of water create excellent aeration of the aquarium. When the aquarium lighting is turned on, the need for air disappears, the flute falls under the water and the flow of water begins to disperse the CO2 bubbles that rise from the diffuser and distributes them throughout the aquarium. That is, thereby improving the quality of water saturation with carbon dioxide.
If, in addition to all this, you purchase timer sockets and an additional pump for aeration, you can “automate” the aquarium - that is, you will not need to turn the lights on and off, raise and lower the flute yourself. At the appointed time, the light will turn on and off while simultaneously turning on the pump to aerate the aquarium at night.
In conclusion to the question about filtering aquarium water, it should be said that earlier, when starting the aquarium, we did not specifically use any drugs that reduce the concentration of nitrates in the aquarium (Tetra Nitrate Minus Pearls). Precisely because the Tetra EX 600 Plus has three compartments for refills. And just recently, Tetra released New Product Tetra Balance Balls – special filter filler that reduces NO3 concentration.
We simply added a small amount of Tetra Balance Balls into one compartment of the external filter. The issue with excessive concentration of poisons has been resolved! The advantage of using Tetra Balance Balls for a planted aquarium is that if we need to increase the amount of NO3 (as fertilizer for plants), we can simply remove certain part balls.
Caring for the aquarium after launch
After the aquarium has been launched, the aquarist can exhale a little and enjoy the first results of his work. However, you shouldn’t relax, because the fun begins ahead!
The aquarium is interesting because it is not a static picture of fish in a pond. Our site always encourages people to change their attitude towards this amazing hobby and look at it in a new way. Aquarium science is amazing because it is atypical, there are no stereotypes, taboos, or clear regulations. Each individual aquarium is unique!
In aquarium farming, perhaps, there is only one rule - you need to learn to see and feel your aquarium. There is no need to perceive aquarium problems and failures as a tragedy. As Shakespeare said: “There is no good or bad, there is only what we call it”! You need to perceive everything with curiosity, study materials, study your aquarium world and, of course, first of all, treat everything with love.
Correct setting of biological balance.
We are confident that if you adhere to what is written in this article, you will succeed! Additionally, we recommend that you read the following articles that will help you understand the meaning of biobalance in an aquarium:
Biobalance of the aquarium;
Nitrites and nitrates in the aquarium, forum;
An aquarium with densely planted plants has its own peculiarity! The biological balance in such an aquarium is much better adjusted.
When starting the aquarium, we used starting products - Tetra AquaSafe, Tetra AquaStart, Tetra EasyBalance. The use of these drugs is the key to success and virtually eliminates all the problems associated with the formation of biological balance in the first month after starting the aquarium.
As can be seen from the tables and videos, using these drugs, we actually immediately take control of the nitrogen cycle and the breakdown of ammonia products, and also turn tap water into suitable for living aquarium fish.
Caring for an aquarium with plants in the first month.
By general rule, the aquarium in the first month does not require cleaning, changing water and siphoning the aquarium bottom! These rules also apply to an aquarium with plants. But it is worth noting that when keeping an aquarium with plants, you must be prepared to constantly fight algae, or rather, to suppress them. In the first month after starting the aquarium, algae can greatly bother the aquarist. This is due to the fact that the biobalance has not yet been adjusted, the planted plants have not yet become stronger, at the same time, bright and powerful lighting can cause the growth of lower flora.
If green algae appears on the walls and decorations of the aquarium, we do not recommend using any algaecides - anti-algae preparations - in the first month. It’s better to simply clean them off with a sponge, a special scraper or an unnecessary plastic card.
Using plant fertilizers in the first month.
An important component of successfully maintaining a herbalist is the correct application of fertilizers for plants in the right proportions.
In the first month of the aquarium's life, we do not recommend going overboard with fertilizers. Firstly, because when starting the aquarium, a nutrient substrate was laid, and secondly, Tetra PlantaStart and Crupto tablets were used - this will be quite enough for newly planted plants. In the future, taking into account the condition of the aquarium, apply liquid and/or tablet fertilizers, starting with small doses. Watch how the aquarium behaves and then adjust the dosage.
Always remember that plant competitors – algae – can always take advantage of an excess of fertilizers! It is for this reason that in aquariums with lush plants (scapes) frequent and high-quality changes of aquarium water are performed (from ¼ to ½ of the volume per week). By changing the water, we remove excess accumulated fertilizers and level out their accumulation.
Lighting for the aquarium in the first month is based on daylight hours.
Aquarium lighting is important tool to regulate plant growth and biobalance in general. Excessive lighting leads to the growth of algae, while lack of lighting leads to poor plant health.
After starting the aquarium, we strongly do not recommend immediately applying the generally accepted daylight hours of 10-14 hours a day!!! In the first month, the lighting of the aquarium should be dosed and increase gradually. Let's say in the first week 5 hours, in the second 6 hours, in the third 8 hours and so on until the norm - balance.
Temperature conditions for the aquarium.
You must always remember that aquarium plants, like fish, need a stable temperature. Shouldn't be allowed sharp changes temperature conditions.
It should also be taken into account that most aquarium plants do not like high temperature. General norm 24-25 degrees.
OUR FIRST MONTH REPORT
A month has passed since the launch of our aquarium. During this time, we made one full change of aquarium water in 1/3 of the volume, since there was a small outbreak of algae, expressed in the formation of green spots on the front wall of the aquarium. The sponge was used for two light cleanings of the aquarium walls. From the second week we started using Tetra Pro series liquid fertilizers in minimal quantities of 1 ml. three times a week. After a week, the dosage was slightly increased. Fourth week fertilizer dosage ~ 1.5-2.0 ml. Pro every other day + 1\2 doses of Tetra PlantaMin + CO2 Plus.
Plant growth. Naturally, the first to “recover” after planting were the unpretentious plants. By the second week, obvious growth was noticeable: Ludwigia vulgare, Ludwigia ovalis, Aponogeton, Hygrophila balsamica, Proserpinac. By the fourth week we had to thin out: ludwigia, apnogeton. First harvest;)
More fastidious plants have also become comfortable, but naturally, due to their natural qualities, they do not grow vigorously. Blixa japonica, one of the “harmful plants,” pleases us. Alternatera colorata red is beet-colored and noticeably stretched out.
The mosses are very pleasing; within a month they have shaken off all the dust that formed when starting up the aquarium and fluffed up.
At the moment, the daylight hours are 9 hours, the lighting is powerful, with a reserve, so we additionally placed a little specialized peat in the TetraEX 600 Plus filter compartment, which gave natural shading of the aquarium, a slight decrease in pH and kH.
Finally, we would like to share with you one interesting way to remove nitrites and nitrates from an aquarium - using phytofiltration. Many aquarists create a phytofilter over the aquarium, where they fill it with expanded clay and plant indoor plants. We offer you a “light version” of phytofiltration. The fact is that the aquarium lid, which is included in the complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L- very convenient and has three “windows”.
So, if you are not eager to build the Gardens of Babylon, tinker with lighting, or just want a cichlid! Then you can buy “bamboo”, sold in any large flower shop. In fact, this is not bamboo, but Dracaena Sander - a plant that grows naturally, developing in water. Three or four branches of dracaena placed in an aquarium will draw out poisons: nitrites and nitarts, and look great above it.
Dracaena over the aquarium
Video of our aquarium
Conclusion
We hope that this material was useful for you! As you can see, maintaining an aquarium with plants has its own specifics; the key to the success of maintaining such an aquarium is perseverance, patience, prudence and a burning desire to achieve your goals.
Video material from Tetra
about starting and maintaining an aquarium with live plants
Installing an aquarium: instructions and useful video
BRIEF INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING THE AQUARIUM
When purchasing your first aquarium and creating your own underwater kingdom, you can’t help but be touched by the mistakes, incidents and incidents that have been made.
What I lacked at that stage was step-by-step brief instructions. After all, I simply didn’t want to read a whole book or a bunch of online articles about the first launch of an aquarium, since there was only one “zombie thought” in my head - the aquarium should start working tomorrow!
I HOPE THIS INSTRUCTION WILL BE USEFUL TO YOU, WILL QUEEN YOUR NEED FOR SPEED AND GIVE STEP-BY-STEP ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS: HOW TO BUY AN AQUARIUM? I WANT AN AQUARIUM WHERE TO START? HOW TO START AN AQUARIUM?
SO LET'S GET STARTED...
1. Decide where the aquarium will be located?
It is better to place the aquarium in a dark corner, so that it is not exposed to direct sunlight (this can cause uncontrollable algae to grow in the aquarium; sunlight creates glare on the glass).
Think about how the power supply will be connected to the aquarium (for connecting: lighting, filter, aeration, heater).
If you decide to install the aquarium not on a special one. cabinet, but on existing furniture or if you want to build an aquarium into a furniture niche - be sure to take into account the weight of the aquarium with water so that it does not collapse under its own weight. The surface must be durable. CHECK!!!
If you have small children, think about their safety and the safety of aquarium inhabitants from children. Children’s access to the aquarium and its equipment should be limited (the principle is “look but don’t touch”).
2. Fill in tap water in advance for settling.
- this should be done at least a day before planting the fish. The presence of dissolved oxygen in tap water can kill fish. Although in practice everything can work out, especially if you use special means to improve the composition of the water (for example, Aquasave from the Tetra series). But it’s better not to take risks, especially for the first time. Remember, the aquarium is for beginners - the first start-up of the aquarium should be carried out “according to a template”; later, being experienced, you will be able to experiment, for example, if the volume of the aquarium is large and there is nowhere to settle the water, you can proceed as follows - pour tap water into the installed aquarium and stand in it for at least 1 day. With this method, “Aquasave” is needed/desirable.
3. Now we run to the pet store and:
We buy an aquarium that we have looked at in advance (corresponding to the chosen location).
Filter and aeration (must match the volume of the aquarium).
We choose the soil and decor (artificial plants, stones, castles, driftwood, etc.).
If it's winter, you still need an aqua heater.
Thermometer.
4. Let’s proceed to the step-by-step installation of the aquarium:
- level the surface special cabinets or furniture on which the aquarium will stand. To do this, buy the simplest water building level ($3 - it will still be useful later on the farm). The fact is that aquarium water creates pressure on the walls of the aquarium. And any even small angle of inclination creates very noticeable pressure on a separate wall (the pressure will not be uniform). What can cause an aquarium to burst? Level the surface as thoroughly as possible. Only minor deviations are acceptable. For small aquariums – up to 35 litres, it is not necessary to level the surface.
- Place the aquarium on the surface. A polyethylene bubble gasket (usually sold with the aquarium) is placed between the aquarium and the surface. Make sure that the edges of the aquarium do not hang from the cabinet or furniture.
- Now pour out and distribute the soil in the aquarium. It is advisable to rinse it in advance after going to the pet store, thereby getting rid of excess dust and dirt.
- installing decor.
5. Fill the aquarium with settled water.
This work is not easy, I tell you, especially if the volume of the aquarium is over 100 liters. (10 buckets).
Pour in the water carefully/slowly.
To prevent the soil from being washed away and the decorations from scattering, I recommend placing some kind of dishes or jar at the bottom. By directing a stream of water at the jar, the water will splash and your decor and soil will remain intact.
Fill the aquarium not to the top, leaving approximately 5-7 cm from the edge.
6. Install filtration and aeration and start it up.
7. Now we run to the pet store again and buy the long-awaited fish, snails, live plants... don’t forget to buy food (it is advisable to wait at least seven days for this, the water should “infuse” at least a little, aquarium chemistry speeds up this process: AquaSafe, Bactozim , Tetra Nitrate Minus Perls etc.).
8. We release the fish into our aquarium. The bag with the fish is first lowered into the aquarium water, I scoop a little water into the bag and keep it in the aquarium for about 15 minutes (for adaptation). Then the bag is turned over and the fish are released.
THAT'S ALL!
In the future, you only need attention and care for your pets.
And with them experience will gradually come!
Useful video about installing and starting an aquarium
- - Aquarium and fish for children: tips for parents!
- - Chilodonellosis treatment
- - Aquarium at work and in the office
- - Compatibility of aquarium fish with other fish
- - Equipment and accessories for the aquarium
Marine aquarium - launch correctly photo video step by step description.
EQUIPMENT FOR MARINE AQUARIUM
The first important purchase will, of course, be the tank itself. Its shape can be different, most often it is a container with a base in the form of a square or rectangle; less common are forms with a convex front (observation) wall. Displacement matters - you will need at least 200 liters, preferably 400 and even more. Do not be tempted by 50 and 100 liter bottles - marine animals get sick and die in them.
Probably the most important purchase will be an external canister filter. Experienced aquarists recommend Eheim 2260 or 2250 and Fluval 403 or 303. You will also need special filler materials - ceramic chips, carbon and sponge.
Buy a thermostat, a skimmer (a device for removing foam), as well as a pump or pompofilter - this is a device for saturating water with oxygen, and in combination with a filter there is also a mechanism for removing waste. Be sure to ground the aquarium: buy an RCD (residual current device) and call an electrician who will wire it out and connect it correctly.
The next purchase is a supply of coal and salt, bacterial preparations, acidity tests, a simple hydrometer (a float that shows how dense the water is) and a siphon to clean the bottom.
If funds allow, take also a UV lamp with a power of 15 Watts and a large canister (about 50 l) to dilute salt in it. The first month of caring for the aquarium will require significant costs and effort, and then everything will become much simpler - daily feeding and about an hour a week for equipment maintenance.
Selecting the right volume
It goes without saying that the larger the volume of the aquarium, the more expensive it is to equip it. Although the best volume for the “sea” is considered to be 200 - 250 liters. (it is easiest to maintain a balanced ecosystem in it), you can start with aquariums of smaller capacity - the best option would be 50 - 80 liters.
A very small aquarium (for example, 20 liters) can also be made “marine” if desired, but maintaining constant water parameters in it is quite difficult. The rectangular shape of the container is preferable to the cubic one, and this is due to the possibility of organizing proper lighting, as well as placing stones.
STONES FOR SEA AQUARIUM
Such stones are also called living, since they are genuine fragments of coral reefs from the ocean, and their cavities are home to numerous colonies of beneficial bacteria. Some samples have real thickets of polyps (anemones) on their surface, and small crustaceans, crabs and sea worms inside.
Having brought home the purchased stones, they should be processed - washed under running hot water, always wearing strong gloves, since the listed types of unwanted inhabitants leave painful and dangerous burns and bites. Having installed the stones, observe life in it in the dark - hungry and active passengers will soon reveal themselves. At the stage of fighting them, use special medicines or remove the animals with tweezers.
A few more words about the second favorite decorative element - this seashells in aquarium. Decorating the seabed, they are completely unsuitable for our purposes, but beginners often want to use them - it’s beautiful! main reason giving up shells is the water hardness that invariably increases due to these sources of calcium carbonate (essentially chalk). Not all aquarium fish will get sick and die, their possible proximity to shells depends on the species, but they probably will not be able to reproduce.
Water filtration and regeneration systems
The most important and difficult point in equipping marine aquarium, because the water in it must be perfectly clean and contain a minimum amount of nitrates. If in natural conditions nature itself takes care of this, and sea currents constantly bring fresh and clean water, then in an aquarium the problem of water purity can only be dealt with with the help of special equipment. A sump is a container made of organic glass, divided by partitions into compartments in which various aquarium equipment is installed.
The sump is usually equipped in an aquarium cabinet, but has direct communication with the aquarium. It can be purchased (there is now a large selection of sumps on sale with all the necessary equipment) or made independently, in this case the aquarist has the opportunity to uniquely select the aquarium equipment that is most suitable for him. The basic operating principle of the sump is a closed cycle.
Using a return pump, water flows from the sump into the aquarium, and then, exceeding a certain level, enters the overflow box and then flows back into the sump by gravity. What should be in the sump? Foam separating column (skimmer). With the help of this device, organic matter that is constantly present there is removed from water, even before its decomposition begins. Even dirt invisible to the naked eye quickly collects on the bubbles that the skimmer creates and accumulates in a special compartment, from where it is then easily removed. Biological filter. For these purposes, a separate compartment of the sump is usually filled with filter material.
This can be coral chips, as well as special bio-balls or other porous organic material. The larger the surface of the biological filter, the more bacteria there are, and accordingly the quality of biological filtration improves. We must not forget about the amount of oxygen required for the process, as well as the speed of water flow through the filter. Together, these three factors create the biological stability of the entire system. Algae (refugium).
Algae can very effectively remove nitrates from water; in addition, microplankton multiply in algae, which serves as food for many inhabitants of a marine aquarium. To organize algae growth, lighting is installed above one of the compartments of the sump with running water, and the lamp must be powerful enough (70-100 W). Algae (chaetamorph) are placed at the bottom of the compartment, which grow and reproduce very well in conditions of high nitrate content and bright lighting. Their number must be kept under control, because When the algae grows excessively, they absorb too many trace elements from the water, and this is harmful to the corals.
The water flow in the algae bed should be slower than in the entire aquarium. Return pump. It is usually installed in a special sump compartment with a variable water level. In this case, the compartment is made large enough so that in the event of an emergency power outage or pump breakdown, it can contain the entire volume of water that will drain 
from the aquarium. To reduce the amount of draining water when a similar situation occurs, holes are made near the end of the return tube lowered into the aquarium at a distance of 1.5 cm below the water level.
When the level drops, air enters the holes and the drainage stops. You also need to pay attention to the power of the return pump. The optimal solution would be a pump that can pump about 10 volumes of the aquarium per hour. In this case, decomposition products will be removed from the aquarium in a timely manner, and the water will be sufficiently saturated with oxygen. Auto top-up. A system for replacing water evaporated from the aquarium, which makes life much easier for its owner, because... Monitoring the level every day is quite tedious.
The pump (specialized stores currently offer a large selection of them) is installed in a separate compartment of the sump according to the instructions. Additional compartments. It is recommended to purchase or make your own sump, providing for spare compartments. Methods for purifying water in a marine aquarium are constantly being improved and it is possible that additional compartments will be required to install any innovation. In addition, a water heater can be installed in the sump, which in this case does not spoil the appearance of the “sea” landscape created by the aquarist.
FISH FOR SEA AQUARIUM To make your home sea happy not only with its bright beauty, but also with a peaceful atmosphere, populate the tank with small and non-aggressive species. As new species arrive, study the literature to find out which ones get along well and which ones conflict. If you decide to keep exotic predator fish, you will have to limit yourself to one species so as not to turn your aquarium into a torture chamber.
But don’t be embarrassed, the choice of fish is, without exaggeration, great. Appreciate the diversity of marine aquarium inhabitants: parrot fish; triggerfish; hedgehog fish (without neighbors); soldier fish; angels: centropygus, diacanthus and about 20 other subspecies; moray eels (without neighbors); fox fish; a wide family of butterfly fish; zebrasoma and other surgeon fish; pseudochromis; clown fish; grams; dogs (without neighbors); tangerines; argus; bulls and many others. 
Everyone's life expectancy is different, but good care, successful acclimatization and timely treatment, most species live 3-4 or about 10 years, and angelfish live for twenty years. Naturally, from the first days you will need to take care of feeding the fish, given that different species feed differently: there are herbivores, carnivores and omnivores, and some, for example, squirrel fish, feed exclusively on live food.
Select the inhabitants so that it is easier to create a diet for most or all of them at once. Don’t flatter yourself that you can dig up worms, feed house flies, or get by bread crumbs. For sea fish, branded food is not a whim, but a necessity, so be aware of your responsibility to the animals and be prepared to constantly buy good food a certain type.
Organization correct flow in a marine aquarium
Current is a vital factor for marine life. It purifies water, brings food and oxygen, and determines all the natural cycles of marine animals. In a saltwater aquarium, current is especially important for live rock. Only with intense water movement are they able to fully perform the function of a biological filter.
In their natural habitat, marine animals get used to fairly strong currents, which sometimes give way to calm. Therefore, in a marine aquarium, some pumps can be turned off at night. The minimum volume pumped by the pump per hour for the “sea” should be 10-15 volumes of the aquarium, although the optimal figure would be 50 volumes. The water flow should not fall directly on invertebrates. 
It is better to direct it at the stones so that they are washed as intensely as possible. For these purposes, two pumps are usually used, installed opposite each other. In this case, a minimum number of stagnant zones remain in the aquarium, in which microlife can die due to lack of oxygen.
STARTING THE SYSTEM
Before starting such a hobby, it would be wise to read as much literature on this topic as possible in order to avoid common mistakes at first. Well, the main points of the plan on how to make a marine aquarium yourself will be provided by our step by step guide: assemble the tank, install the main decorative elements, attach the switched off filters, fill them with fillers, ground them; fill the tank with tap water, let it sit for a day, drain; Fill three-quarters of the volume with tap water, turn on the filters, heat (25-26 °C)
and pump, leave the system for seven days; turn off the devices, clean the filter from the carbon filler and add a new portion, add sea salt to the water (37 grams of salt per 1 liter of water); turn on the pump so that the salt is mixed and dissolved, then turn it off; when the water has settled, clean the bottom with a siphon - there will be a cloudy sediment there, it needs to be removed; lay the soil and add all the algae and decorations you have (stones, houses, shells);
measure the density of water with a hydrometer, bring the indicator to 1’022-1’024 g/l, adding either fresh water or salt solution, at the same time fill the tank almost to the brim (distance from the top edge is 4-5 cm); wait a week for the water to settle, but after about three days, turn on the filters, pump, skimmer and heating, add a preparation with bacteria or live stones (reefs); a week has passed, the bacteria have managed to decompose dead organic matter, 
and filters purified the water; check the content of ammonium, nitrites and phosphorus, as well as the acid-base balance with a test (the norm for the first is no more than 0.5 mg per liter, for the second - no less than 8.0); if the indicators deviate, it means that the decay has not yet ended; simply put, something is rotting in the water - it needs to be found and removed (remove and clean all the stones and decorations);
when all indicators are normal, you can launch the first settlers - fish, 2-3 small individuals; at this stage, you need to check the indicators daily and change the water until bacteria colonize the contents of the aquarium and are able to completely process fish waste; when the process is established, introduce new fish, 1-2 per week, carefully checking the indicators with tests, changing the water; everything is gradually getting back on track, and in three months you will have a reliable biosystem!
Aquarium refrigerator
The usual temperature for a marine aquarium is 25-26 degrees. If its lower limit is easily regulated using a water heater, then in extreme heat very often there is a problem with cooling the water to the required parameters. An aquarium refrigerator is not a cheap pleasure, but if you consider that in a particularly hot season all aquarium inhabitants can die due to overheating, its installation is justified.
VIDEO SEA AQUARIUM
GROTTO FOR AQUARIUM WITH YOUR OWN HANDS, FROM STONE FROM WOOD FROM CLAY FROM COCONUT
DO-It-yourself EXTERNAL FILTER FOR AQUARIUM
The emergence of aquaworld took place over thousands of years, so it is not possible to instantly create an optimal microclimate in an aquarium. To do this, it is not enough to buy a rack with specialized chemicals and equipment.
Preparing the Primary Environment
Start launching the aquarium by determining the location where the artificial pond will be located, and only then can you decide on the issue of populating and otherwise filling the aquarium. However, this is still a long way off. Place the aquarium in its place and fill it to the top with water. This is necessary so that traces of sealant and other harmful substances dissolve. Now drain it completely. The remaining dissolved materials will go away with the water. After this, you need to proceed to laying the soil. Pour water into the aquarium to a third of its volume and place the prepared material at the bottom. It is best to use small round pebbles, the grains of which do not exceed 5 millimeters. Try to find soil with a neutral alkaline environment. You can check it without special devices, just drop vinegar on it, if it hisses, then the hardness in such an aquarium will become alkalized and foul.
Properly selected soil allows you to create an organic microclimate and will not allow the formation of stagnant places where water does not circulate. Since the soil is considered a natural biofilter for all microorganisms, the further success of the launch of a new aquarium depends largely on the correct actions in choosing and laying the soil. The bacteria that appear in it take part in the process of ozonation and nitration of water, so it is important to monitor areas that are difficult to access for changing water. To avoid accidentally bringing it into the aquarium harmful microorganisms and diseases, the soil must be treated. Starting an aquarium from scratch begins with calcining or boiling the washed soil. To prevent the bottom of the aquarium from cracking due to temperature changes, the soil is lowered into flooded or pre-cooled water. Once it is in place, add fluid to the required level.
For starters, you can ignore aeration, filtration and lighting. It is enough to turn on the heater if necessary. After a day, the chlorine content will return to normal, the water will reach the desired temperature, and excess gases will come out. You can start planting plants. For their existence, it is necessary to properly illuminate the water. Try to set the lamp in the range of 0.35 watts per liter. To start with, 8 hours of daylight will be enough.
Plants that help create the right microclimate:
- Cut or winged carrots;
- Indian fern;
- Rostolistik;
- Rapidly growing grass.
Starting an aquarium is complicated by a lack of bacteria, which are responsible for processing waste products of the inhabitants. Thanks to the above plants, or rather, the death of their leaves, these microorganisms become more numerous. No matter how much you would like to launch fancy fish at this moment, you will have to wait. The first stage has been completed - the plants are in place, now it is necessary to wait time for them to adapt, take root and grow. All these actions among aquarists are called setting the primary balance.
Stages of microclimate formation:
- Active reproduction of microorganisms leads to cloudiness of water;
- After 3-4 days, transparency returns to normal;
- The absorption of oxygen and organic matter leads to the accumulation of ammonia;
- Bacteria begin to work hard and normalize the environment.
Many people try to find the answer to how long the aquarium should stand before adding fish. In fact, there is no optimal time frame. It all depends on the temperature, plants and volume. You need to wait for the slight smell of fresh grass, and not a new aquarium with silicone admixture.
Launching fish
It's time to launch the first fish. If you are not sure that the aquarium is completely ready to accept inhabitants, then start with a pair of Guppies or Danyushkas. However, if you have done everything according to the instructions, then feel free to plant a whole flock of young individuals in the pond. Up to 15 teenagers can be released into a 100-liter aquarium.
This must be done correctly:
- Bring a jar or bag of young animals home;
- Wait a couple of hours, allowing the water to aerate in the jar or bag;
- Drain off some of the water and add what is in your aquarium;
- Wait an hour and repeat the procedure;
- Gradually, over several hours, change all the water;
- Place the fish in a community aquarium.
If possible, try to measure the parameters of the aqua at first. To do this, you will need testers for acidity, nitrates and ammonia. Pioneer fish must be fed with live food; if this is not available, then frozen food is acceptable. Feeding dry food is not advisable. If there is no other choice, then introduce it little by little, arranging fasting days for the residents. It is imperative to follow this rule to avoid a bacterial outbreak.
At the beginning, you shouldn’t create a schedule for shifting and replacing water, just watch the inhabitants. You can change 10-20% of the water if:
- All the fish sank to the lower layers;
- They cluster together;
- They melt in pairs or in flocks;
- The upper fin is pressed in.
To make sure you need to change the water, check the acidity and temperature. If the thermometer scale is above 25 degrees at a pH of more than 7.6, then change part of the aqua. It is important to make sure that all the fish sink to the bottom, and not just one individual. If one of the fish sank low alone, put him in quarantine and continue to observe.
Experienced aquarists offer another way to normalize the balance. Place all the fish for a day and wait until the ammonia level decreases. Then the inhabitants return back.
Starting an aquarium and settling fish in it affects the quality of the water. Each individual creates a chemical cloud around itself that affects its neighbors. The higher the fish density, the greater the exposure to harmful substances.
Maintaining an aquarium microclimate
To ensure that the startup does not turn out to be a waste of time, it is necessary to carefully plan subsequent care: the amount and frequency of changing water or part of it. Tap water is completely unsuitable for creating optimal water. Tap water is too aggressive an environment for sensitive fish. It is strictly forbidden to change all water (except for “sick”). The aquarium establishes its own environment, similar to that which is familiar to the fish species.
The optimal amount of added water is no more than 1/5 part. The fish will be able to restore their normal microsphere after a couple of days. If you change ½ the volume of water at a time, this inept action can lead to the death of fish and plants. Restoring the hydrobalance of a large amount of water is possible only after 2-3 weeks. A complete water change will lead to the death of all living things, and the aquarium will have to be started from the very beginning. Use settled water, the temperature of which will be approximately equal to the aquarium temperature - this will reduce the chance of fish death.
In this article we will continue the conversation about installing an aquarium, which we started with the article:. Now let's look at how to properly install and run an aquarium without harming yourself and the fish. After all, launching an aquarium is at least half of a successful business. Mistakes made at this time can interfere with normal balance for a long time.
When the aquarium is already installed, filled with water and fish are added to it, it is very difficult and problematic to rearrange it. Therefore, it must be installed correctly from the very beginning.
Make sure that the place and stand where you are going to place it will support the weight of the aquarium, do not forget, the weight can reach large values. Be sure to check the distortions using a level, even if it seems to you that everything is level.
Do not place the aquarium so that the edges hang over the stand. This is fraught with the fact that it simply crumbles. The aquarium should stand on a stand with its entire bottom surface.
Be sure to glue the background before installing the aquarium; the easiest way to do this is to spread a thin layer of glycerin onto the background. Glycerin is sold at the pharmacy.
Do not forget that there should be free space behind the aquarium for maintenance and installation of filter pipes. Finally, when the place is chosen and it is secure, do not forget the substrate under the aquarium, which will smooth out micro-irregularities and help distribute the load more evenly on the bottom of the aquarium. As a rule, it comes complete with an aquarium, do not forget to check with the seller.
Starting an aquarium - detailed video in several parts:
Soil placement and filling
All soils, except the branded ones in the package, must be thoroughly cleaned before being added to the aquarium. A large amount of fine dirt and debris is present in all soils, and if not washed, it will seriously clog the water.
The process of washing the soil is long and messy, but extremely necessary. The simplest method is to rinse a small amount of soil under running water. Strong water pressure will wash away all light elements and leave the soil almost intact.
You can also simply pour a small amount of soil into a bucket and put it under the tap, forgetting about it for a while. When you return it will be clean.
The soil can be laid unevenly; it is best to place the soil at an angle. The front glass has a smaller layer, the rear glass has a larger layer. This creates a better viewing experience and makes it easier to remove debris that accumulates near the front glass.
The thickness of the soil is important if you are going to plant live plants and should be at least 5-8 cm.
Before adding water, check that the aquarium is level. This can be done using a building level. Skewing can increase the improper load on the walls, and it simply does not look aesthetically pleasing.
Second part of the launch:
Then it's time to fill the jar, usually with tap water. Just let it drain slightly to avoid debris and stagnant water. If possible, fill slowly, trying not to wash away the soil; it is better to use a hose for this.
Even well-washed soil will produce cloudiness at first. You can simply place a plate on the bottom and direct the flow of water onto it; the water will not erode the soil and the turbidity will be minimal. You need to fill the aquarium to the top, but leave a few cm underfilling. Don’t forget, plants and decorations will also take up space.
After the aquarium is filled, add a special conditioner to the water; it will help remove chlorine and other elements from the water faster.
You can add water from an old aquarium (if you already have one), but only after the fresh water in the aquarium has warmed up. You can also use a filter from an old aquarium.
Third launch video:
Equipment check
Once the aquarium is filled, you can begin installing and checking the equipment. The heater should be installed in a place with good flow, for example, near the filter. This way the water will heat up more evenly.
Don't forget that the heater must be completely submerged under water! Modern heaters are sealed and operate entirely under water. Don’t even think about burying it in the ground, or the heater will break or the bottom of the aquarium will crack!
Set the temperature to about 24-25C, once it warms up, check with a thermometer. Unfortunately, heaters can produce a difference of 2-3 degrees. Most of them have a light that lights up during operation, so you can tell when it's on.
Fourth part:
Internal filter - if aeration is not needed in the filter (for example, there is a compressor), then it should be placed at the very bottom, since all the dirt accumulates there. If you sculpt it 10-20 cm above the ground, then it will be of no use, and the entire bottom will be littered with debris. The closer to the surface, the better aeration works, if needed.
So, attaching the filter means choosing the optimal depth - it needs to be as low as possible, but at the same time aeration works... And this is already determined experimentally. But it’s better to read the instructions for the model you purchased.
When you turn on the filter for the first time, air will come out of it, possibly more than once. Don't be alarmed, it will take several hours before all the air is washed out with water.
Connecting an external filter is a little more difficult, but again, read the instructions. Be sure to place the tubes for water intake and discharge at different ends of the aquarium. This will eliminate dead spots, places where the water in the aquarium stagnates.
It is better to place the water intake near the bottom, and do not forget to put protection on it - a pre-filter, so that fish or large debris are not accidentally sucked in. The external filter must be filled before use. That is, before connecting it to the network, it is filled with water using a hand pump.
I'll tell you that on some models it's not so easy, I had to suffer. Like the internal filter, the external filter also contains air that will come out over time. But at first the filter can be quite loud, so don’t be alarmed. If you want to speed up the process, carefully tilt the filter at different angles or shake it slightly.
Fifth part
Sixth
http://youtu.be/3QX4JciQY-4
Decor installation
Be sure to rinse the driftwood thoroughly and then boil it. This applies to both branded ones and those that you found yourself or bought on the market. Sometimes the snags are dry and float, in which case they need to be soaked in water.
The process is not quick, so do not forget to change the water in the container with the soaked driftwood. How, where and how many elements to place is a matter of your taste and not for me to advise. The only thing is to make sure that everything is firmly installed, and it won’t fall and break your glass.
If you install large stones in the aquarium - 5 or more kg, it will not interfere with the ground, put foam plastic under it. This will guarantee that such a large cobblestone will not break the bottom.
Launching fish and planting plants
When can you put fish in new aquarium? After the water has been filled, the decor has been installed, and the equipment is connected, wait 2-3 days (4-5 is even better) before planting the fish. During this time, the water will warm up and clear. You will be convinced that the equipment works as it should, the temperature is stable and as you need it, dangerous elements (chlorine) have evaporated.
AquaSafe for water.
At this time it is good to add special preparations to facilitate the establishment of balance in the aquarium. These are liquids or powders that contain beneficial bacteria that live in the soil and filter, and purify water from harmful substances.
Plants can be planted a little faster, before the fish are planted, but not before the water warms up to 24 C.
Plant the plants, wait a couple of days until the raised turbidity settles down and launch your new pets.
Post navigationAn aquarium is rightfully considered a decorative element of the interior; it will decorate even the most unremarkable room. At first glance, it may seem that installing the house does not present any particular difficulties: fill in the water, lay out the soil and be done with it. However, like any other business, preparation includes its own characteristics that must be taken into account. Let's look at the important aspects in order.
Stage No. 1. Purchase and installation of an aquarium
- First of all, you need to purchase an aquarium that is suitable in size and dimensions. As experienced aquarists advise, the optimal volume is considered to be a container with a volume of 35-45 liters. In such conditions it is easier to maintain the natural biosphere. If you live in a small apartment (one-room, studio), you can opt for an aquarium with a capacity of about 20 liters, but no less.
- It is important that the height of the home matches its width. Such a move guarantees a sufficient area of contact between air and water. The liquid component will be filled with oxygen, which will ensure the full existence of plants and fish.
- After selecting and purchasing the appropriate container, you need to take care of its installation. It is worth remembering forever that the aquarium should never be placed on a windowsill, and the place should be located near natural light, that is, near a window.
- In cases where the selected surface is unstable (swings, does not have thick legs, etc.), correct this mistake. Using a spirit level, level the table/shelf so that the aquarium is firmly installed.
Important! It is strictly forbidden to lift or move a container filled with liquid on the surface. For this reason, consider choosing suitable place in advance, before adding water.
Stage No. 2. Cleaning the aquarium
- After purchasing and choosing a place to install the house, start cleaning the aquarium. This stage is very important, it should not be neglected, approach the process responsibly.
- Lay a soft towel in the bathtub or shower stall and place an aquarium on it. Rinse the container with running water at room temperature, avoid sudden changes of liquid with glass.
- Prepare a cleaning solution: grate a third of a bar of laundry or tar soap, pour boiling water over it, and bring the mixture until smooth. Cool, then pour into the cavity of the container.
- Using a foam sponge, wipe the walls, bottom, and corners. If desired, you can do without the solution. To do this, soap a cloth and treat your home inside and out.
- Rinse the aquarium with water to remove any soap particles. Wet the sponge and walls with plenty of water, add baking soda until the glass is completely covered. Leave the mixture for a quarter of an hour, then proceed to cleaning.
- Wipe the cavity well and wash it several times. Fill the aquarium with water, retreating 10-15 cm from the edges, and leave for 2 days. After the expiration date, pour out the water, repeat the last stage of cleaning with soda and soak again. Such manipulations will help remove remnants of paint and silicone that were used to treat the corners.
Stage No. 3. Washing and placement of soil
- The best option for aquarium soil is considered to be sand from the shallows of a river. In cases where it is not possible to lay a base of this kind, take any sand. The main thing is to rinse it thoroughly, removing any remaining clay.
- To properly clean the soil, pour it into a deep bucket or basin, then open the tap to maximum power. After the water becomes clear, complete the procedure. You can make the work easier by washing the soil step by step in small parts. In this case, it must be stirred with a wooden spatula or spoon.
- After washing, check the soil for cleansing: pour water into a container with sand, wait 10 minutes. After this, stir the composition and evaluate the result. If there is turbidity, washing should be continued.
- Proceed with placing the soil. Place it on the bottom of the aquarium so that the container is filled to 4-6 cm. Slope it towards the front wall, creating a “sea” effect. If desired, place pebbles, decorative driftwood, clay houses, etc.
- Do not place decorations close to the glass to avoid accidentally damaging it. Make sure that there are no stones with sharp edges in the aquarium, otherwise the fish may be injured.
Stage No. 4. Filling with water, installing devices
- Pour pre-settled water into a clean bucket, take a garden hose and lower one end. Next, make a suction movement “inward” so that the water begins to flow out of the tube.
- Place the second edge against the wall of the aquarium; this move will help avoid clouding of the soil. Raise the bucket of water higher than the house so that the liquid drains faster.
- There is another option for filling the aquarium with water. To make it a reality, place a plate on the ground, direct a small stream of purified water onto it, and use a watering can.
- Install the filter by attaching it to the wall of the container using suction cups. Make sure that the device is working properly, then adjust the lighting. You can attach a daytime or special aquarium lamp above the container so that the light falls from above.
- Cover the fish's home with a glass plate, which will protect the aquarium from dust and foreign objects. Wait 1 week, after this period the house is ready for occupancy.
It is not difficult to prepare an aquarium for stocking with fish if you proceed in stages. To maintain them properly, it is necessary to prepare the home taking into account all requirements. Choose a suitable container, clean it, fill it with river soil. Fill with water, install the filter, lamp and protective glass. After certain period release the fish, monitor their well-being.
Video: what you need to know to start an aquarium
It has been decided that we will have an aquarium! It has already been selected and purchased, the coolest equipment is waiting nearby in beautiful boxes, bright red shiny terribly effective soil has already been poured onto the bottom, and on it lies a ceramic crocodile that will blow bubbles. Now let’s pour some water and, while it sits for an hour or two, we’ll go to the pet store and buy the best fish there - those with long fins, and others, yellow ones with red dots (what are they called? However, it doesn’t matter, the main thing is that they’re beautiful) ...
Stop! No matter how laudable the desire to join the fascinating world of aquariums may be, you should not force this process, otherwise the first experience may turn out to be so disastrous that you will not want to continue. Let's be patient a little longer and figure out what should happen to glass jar, full of water, so that it becomes an aquarium.
An aquarium is a balanced biological system in which many living organisms coexist. These are not only fish and plants planted by the owner, but also small invertebrates, protozoa, algae, and bacteria that have independently colonized. And in order for the aquarium to be beautiful and comfortable for life, this entire system must be in balance. Substances entering it from the outside must be processed without deteriorating the vital indicators of water and without causing death or, conversely, uncontrolled outbreak the number of any inhabitants, and then removed from the system during water changes and cleaning of the aquarium. 
What needs to be done before launch?
Even before the start-up procedure begins, a number of decisions must be made critical issues and take some necessary steps:
- Decide what kind of fish or aquatic animals you want to have. Find out what conditions they require. Be sure to find out!
- Depending on the decisions on the first point, select the volume and model of the aquarium, as well as the list of necessary equipment and design items. Based on the species and the number of future inhabitants, decide whether, for example, a heater with a thermostat is needed, how powerful the filter should be, whether an additional compressor is required, what to decorate the aquarium with: stones or snags, what plants to plant, and so on.
- Choose a place for the aquarium - not in a draft or in the sun. It is also important that access to the aquarium is convenient, and that there are a sufficient number of sockets nearby.
- Buy and install an aquarium (be sure to place it on a flat surface, so that its edges do not hang over the shelf or cabinet even by a centimeter). The aquarium is pre-washed without using chemical detergents.
- Place equipment in the aquarium: filter, compressor, heater and thermometer, lighting fixtures. Cover the soil with a layer of 3-4 cm. Depending on the type of soil and its source of origin, it may require preliminary calcination, boiling or washing. The same applies to stones and driftwood.
Now the aquarium is ready to fill with water and start up. But before we give step-by-step instructions for launching, we will try to figure out why this notorious launch is needed and how a launched aquarium differs from an unstarted one. 
Just a little theory
As we already wrote above, an aquarium is an open system into which various substances enter from the outside. This is basically fish food that the fish eat, releasing waste products. The most significant and toxic part of this waste in chemical terms is ammonia; even in small concentrations it can cause poisoning and subsequent death of fish and other aquatic animals. However, in nature there are bacteria (they are called nitrifying bacteria) that consume ammonia, oxidizing it to nitrites. Nitrites are not much better for fish than ammonia, but there are other types of nitrifying bacteria that, in turn, bind them, turning them into relatively harmless nitrates.
This entire system of bacterial colonies, which turns poisonous ammonia water into water with nitrates, quite suitable for fish, is called a biofilter. Since the efficiency of a biofilter directly depends on the number of its constituent bacteria in the aquarium (it is clear that two or three microscopic nitrosomonas will not be able to convert ammonia released by a dozen large goldfish into safe compounds), these bacteria must be given the opportunity to multiply to the required numbers. To do this they need three things:
- nutrition (ammonia and nitrites);
- substrate (surface to which they can attach);
- and for some time, since bacteria multiply quickly, but still not with lightning speed.
And now, finally, we will formulate what starting an aquarium is: this is a set of measures that allows the biological filter to mature and begin to work fully. Or, in other words, growing in an aquarium enough nitrifying organisms to process the ammonia and nitrites released by all the inhabitants of this aquarium.
Launch (instructions for beginners)
So, let’s look point by point at how to properly start an aquarium:
- The launch begins with laying out the soil and then pouring water. Use tap water; there is no need to pre-settle it. After filling the water, turn on the aeration filter. If the filter is without an aerator, then an additional compressor must work, since nitrifying bacteria require a lot of oxygen, and a heater (set to 24-25°). In this form, with the lights turned off, the aquarium is left for 5-7 days. All these days they only monitor the operation of the equipment: they check whether oxygen is supplied, measure the water temperature.
- After 5-7 days, unpretentious fast-growing plants are planted, after which the lighting is turned on for 4-5 hours a day.
- After another 1-2 days, you can introduce the first aquarium animals. These can be small (viviparous or, for example, zebrafish), but it is better to use ampularia or snails that are more resistant to water quality. There should be few animals. They need to be fed once a day in very small portions. It is necessary to constantly monitor their behavior and appetite. Ampularia, for example, are excellent indicators of water quality: in clean, good water, they rush around the aquarium at cruising speed, spreading their antennae and looking for food. At this stage, the light is turned on for the whole day (8-12 hours), you can add special bacterial cultures to the aquarium to start (various companies have them, for example Sera Nitrivek).
- After a week, the remaining plants are planted and the main fish population begins to be released in parts (at intervals of 1-2 days). Each batch released must be carefully monitored and fed in moderation.
That, in fact, is what science is all about. Really, nothing complicated?
Of course, the balance in the aquarium is still unstable, and some time after the start-up, unpleasant phenomena such as, for example, outbreaks of diatoms may be observed. But if the launch was carried out correctly, these problems are usually not catastrophic in nature, do not lead to massive fish kills and are resolved in a working manner. To combat the mentioned diatoms, for example, the small charming catfish otocinclus is successfully used. 
How to make the process of starting an aquarium easier?
We wrote above that for the proliferation of beneficial bacteria, food and substrate are needed. And, of course, the initial size of the bacterial colony matters. Thus, in order to speed up the maturation of the biofilter and, accordingly, the launch of the aquarium, you can immediately introduce a significant amount of bacteria into the artificial reservoir and prepare a large-area substrate for them (there is already enough food for bacteria in the starting aquarium).
Bacteria are introduced using industrially made starter cultures (we also mentioned them above) or with water, soil, or filter media from a functioning, healthy aquarium. To provide sufficient substrate area for bacteria, it is recommended to use filters with porous ceramic fillers or large-volume filters with other fillers, plant plants with narrow, feathery leaves, and use fine gravel of even size as soil. All these surfaces will be colonized by nitrifying bacteria.
Aquarium start-up control greatly facilitates the use of ammonia and nitrite tests for aquarium water. These tests are produced by different manufacturers and are not uncommon in pet stores. With their help, you can monitor the level of these toxic compounds in the water and adjust the stocking of fish in the aquarium you are starting.
As you can see, starting the aquarium correctly does not take much time - two or three weeks is quite possible. It does not require a colossal amount of strength or special academic knowledge. But it helps to avoid many problems in the future, preserves the life and health of the fish, and therefore the nerves and good mood of their owner.
Cloudy water in the aquarium
After launch, you can often observe cloudiness in the water, signaling that it is too early to move in the inhabitants. It is necessary to find out the reason why the water has lost its transparency:
- If the turbidity has a whitish tint, then most likely a bacterial boom has occurred; after starting this normal phenomenon. Due to the abundance of food, ammonia and nitrifying bacteria began to multiply. As a rule, the outbreak lasts a couple of days, after which it gradually subsides due to the proliferation of ciliates, for which bacteria are natural food. The process can be speeded up by adding water from a healthy aquarium, but you need to take it from the bottom or near the filter, since these are the places where most ciliates live.
Sometimes the water can become cloudy even in long-running aquariums due to too large changes. - Green haze is caused by an overgrowth of microscopic algae. This mainly occurs from too bright light and long daylight hours. In this case, it is necessary to reduce the brightness of the light in the aquarium and make sure that it is not exposed to direct sunlight.
- Sometimes yellowish turbidity can appear from insufficiently washed soil. As a rule, it settles within a few hours.
- The water becomes brownish from snags and a filter with peat. Humic substances are harmless to fish, and for some species they are even beneficial, but they greatly affect the acidity of the water, which, in turn, can negatively affect species that prefer alkaline water. In this case, it is necessary to drain the water and soak the wooden decorations themselves in running water for several days.
- Water can be colored by brightly colored soil or artificial decorations. It is better not to use such decorations at all, since they often have an impact on the health of the inhabitants. negative impact because of the dyes.
