Russian hunting spaniel - description of the breed, hunting qualities, choice of puppy. Russian Spaniel: description of the breed, care and education Description of the Russian Hunting Spaniel breed

"Pros and cons"

Spaniels are a group of breeds of small, long-eared, setter-like dogs used for hunting game birds. The spaniel does not stand in front of the game, but, working within a shot from the owner, lifts the hiding or fleeing bird onto the wing. Before the game rises, the spaniel behaves so expressively (by making an eyeliner, snorting excitedly, yapping or voicing) that the hunter, being in constant contact with his dog, already knows when the bird will rise to the wing, and manages to prepare for the shot in advance. Our magazine spoke in detail about the history of spaniels and their breeds in two articles by O.L. Malov (“PiO”, Nos. 3, 4, 1996).

What advantages do spaniels have over other breeds of gun dogs? Undoubtedly, the main ones are small size, “compactness” and low weight (about 15 kg). This allows you to easily transport your dog by public transport, which is especially valuable for hunters who do not have their own car, which includes the author of this article. A spaniel is lighter than a gun dog and can be carried on the subway, either in your arms or in a backpack or bag. In a cramped bus or train, a spaniel can easily fit on a hunter’s lap; you just need to carry a small clean cloth or baby diaper with you to lay it down first. As a rule, especially after a hunt, the spaniel will sleep peacefully on your lap and not disturb anyone around you or you. You can place it under the seat, so passengers will only notice your dog when you get out.

Rather than an advantage, but a feature of the spaniel’s work is its relatively short search (within a rifle shot) and its tendency to work “from below.” It would seem, what's good about this? Indeed, in large areas, a pointer will search a much larger area in the same time than a spaniel, but not always, especially when complete absence wind, you can guarantee that the area covered is left without game. In terms of thoroughness of work, a reasonable combination of “top” and “bottom”, spaniels have no equal. By the way, about the wind. Many cops in complete calm, especially in hot weather, sometimes completely refuse to work or do it less efficiently. For a spaniel, calmness is not a hindrance, but in the heat it is enough to take a swim - and again forward, it would be game. Undoubtedly, the wind helps the work of the spaniel, but it is not as decisive in hunting as it is for the pointing dog. Even if your forced path lies downwind, the spaniel will find a way out of the situation: it will run ahead and work towards you, and in any case, all this will happen within the range of the shot. It can perform tracking work both without wind and in the wind.

One of the advantages of spaniels should be recognized as working on fleeing game. Corncrake, marsh hens, young quail and black grouse, and even capercaillie, often do not hold a pointer's stance. While the hunter approaches it, especially if some time passes, the bird runs away. The pointer overtakes her again, the game falls, the dog makes a second stance, but the bird runs away again. Of course, an experienced pointer will eventually lift the same crake onto the wing, but, you see, this is still the spaniel’s “crown” job.

Another working advantage of the spaniel is the search for game in thickets and forests. Where a big cop won't get through, it will get through. small spaniel. Prickly rosehip bushes and a continuous tangle of blackberries, impenetrable bird cherry twigs and dense fir trees, a wall of stinging nettles and an interlacing of mouse peas - the spaniel will look everywhere and with great zeal. He will crawl under the upturned roots of trees, climb into frequent plantings and clearings densely overgrown with young pencil forest. We will know about the rise of the bird by the dog’s voice and will be ready to shoot.

Let us also point out the spaniel's innate tendency to fetch and love for water. In addition, spaniels are usually more polite to game (they do not crush it) than cops. It is also worth mentioning the fact that, being small in size, the spaniel consumes about 3 times less food than a large pointer, for example, a drathaar or a shorthaired pointer. And this is essential in our difficult times, especially for a poor hunter.

The disadvantages of spaniels include the lack of a stance and the associated beauty of hunting, glorified by the classics of Russian hunting literature. However, everyone who hunted with a spaniel will object: emotional work long ears, an energetic search, sniffing out game with spectacular “candles” in the tall grass, dramatic eyeliner and the rise of the bird with a voice deliver no less excitement and tension than the classic stance of a pointer.

There is a misconception that large pointers are more resilient and do not get tired longer when hunting than small spaniels. It all depends on your pet’s training and the regularity of hunting. I know many examples when spaniels were not only not inferior in endurance, but even superior to cops on the hunt. But in conditions of dense and high above-water vegetation - in reeds, cattails, a continuous “jungle” of reed grass, reeds, or among a continuous “carpet” of wood cutters, the pointing dog will naturally have an advantage. Perhaps the most serious drawback of the spaniel is the “ear problem”. The long ears, which are also covered with long wavy hair, get very wet and in cold weather do not dry out almost during the entire hunt, often leading to hypothermia and diseases, especially of the ears. In general, the spaniel's coat dries slowly. Even after returning from hunting and sitting next to a warm stove, the dog remains damp for a long time, and the ears are the last to dry. You can’t do without a terry towel, especially in autumn! In addition, with age, many spaniels develop problems with their teeth (caries, tartar). Among other dog breeds, spaniels suffer more from teeth than poodles. Seeds, thorns and burdocks strongly stick to the wavy, feathered coat of spaniels in late autumn. From the ears, where they gather wool into tangles, they have to be cut off. In the spring forest, it is quite troublesome to pick out ticks from the wool of spaniels, and sometimes dogs die from piroplasmosis.

So, after all, you have chosen a spaniel for yourself. I especially recommend it to novice hunters. For some, these dogs will be the first step on the path to proper bird hunting, and in the future they will switch to cops. Others, having hunted with a spaniel, will forever remain adherents of the breed and hunting with it. But before that you still have a lot of work, failures, experiences and joys...

Friend's choice

It is better not to rush into choosing a puppy. You will have to hunt with your future friend for about ten or even more hunting seasons, so you need to take the choice seriously. Getting rid of an accidentally acquired dog after two or three seasons, which has already managed, despite poor working qualities, to become your friend, is both difficult and inhumane. Of course, it is advisable to purchase a puppy through hunting dog clubs and hunting societies, and it must have a certificate of origin. Take an interest in the hunting qualities of the puppy's parents and their special preferences for specific types of hunting. This is an important fact. Among spaniel hunters, there is an opinion that spaniels are committed to some type of hunting. For example, there are the famous “duck” lines of Moscow and St. Petersburg spaniels or the Orekhovo-Zuevsky “snipe hawks” and “crakes” (mainly from the Parfentievsky “red” spaniels). Of course, this division is arbitrary and in no way detracts from the universality of the work of the Russian hunting spaniel breed (and this is what our story will be about) in poultry. But still, undoubtedly, the inclination to work in water, diving, fetching a dead bird from land and giving a voice is clearly transmitted from parents to offspring. There are lines of very vicious spaniels that bite their owners. Even if such dogs are good hunters, they are difficult to live with, especially if there are children in the house.

Therefore, before purchasing a puppy, select a litter from specific breeders. The mating plan can be obtained from the dog handlers of your society. Of course, it is better to take puppies from the mating of familiar hunting dogs. Parents must have field diplomas, but don’t chase the number of them, especially if you take your future assistant primarily for practical hunting. The main thing is that both parents are working dogs.

A lot has been written about who to choose - a male or a female. Both one and the other sex have their advantages and disadvantages. The point is the habit of the hunter, who usually gives preference to only one sex all his life. There are also many manuals devoted to choosing puppies based on exterior characteristics. But it’s worth talking about choosing a future friend based on temperament.

It is known that puppies in the same litter differ in the type of nervous activity. Already by the age of 3 weeks, slow and sedate phlegmatic people can be easily distinguished from fidgety, nimble choleric people. The type of nervous activity leaves an imprint on the dog’s behavior and work throughout its life. It also affects the characteristics of training and coaching. It is better for a beginning spaniel hunter to take calm phlegmatic people or sociable, balanced sanguine people. They are obedient, easy to train, and commands are firmly established by them. This is especially important for developing prohibiting commands and, most importantly, preventing the taking off of a bird that has taken off and chasing after a shot. They are also convenient in everyday life - even puppies with these types of nervous activity are quite calm, do not cause “pogroms” in the room in the absence of their owners, and do not squeal or bark to no avail. The best of them are sanguine dogs - intelligent, loyal and at the same time quite fast and temperamental dogs. It is also good for a slow, calm hunter to hunt with a phlegmatic person. During field tests, I observed how a young spaniel slowly, at a pace, examined the site of a great snipe current with a shuttle, and having scented a bird, he slowed down his already slow pace even more, slightly intensifying the wagging of his tail. A great snipe took off - the dog only raised its head, following the bird with its gaze and not even making an attempt not only to chase it, but also to lean forward. After a few seconds, the spaniel sat down and looked questioningly at its owner. It seems that hunting with such a spaniel should be quite effective in game-rich areas.

Once I was on a crake hunt with a friend whose spaniel was also phlegmatic. I and my “choleric” Paw had already managed to get around three career “maps” overgrown with weeds, while my friend and his pet were still digging in one place. When I approached, I did not immediately realize that the spaniel was working on the corncrake - the dog’s work was so inexpressive. “It’s okay, he’ll pick it up anyway,” concluded the friend, and he was not mistaken: another ten minutes later, when we had already moved a considerable distance, the sound of a shot was heard and the corncrake finally hit the hunter’s bag. As a rule, it can be very difficult to force such overly inhibited dogs to work in areas poor in game, and especially to order them to search difficult thickets and supports. Such a spaniel, nevertheless, to please you, can climb into a bush, spruce forest or reeds, but if it doesn’t pick up the smell of game, it will quickly return and work in the open.

Choleric dogs are difficult to work with. Not only do they need to be trained for a long time and persistently in commands, they are not easy to target to carry out a specific order, since such dogs have poor concentration and many external factors they are very distracted. We have to use “carrot and stick” methods, “ starvation diet"and long training sessions. The owner needs to spend much more time working with the dog than with calm necks. And even a well-trained and experienced good school training, a choleric person can let the owner down at crucial moments, both during hunting and during field trials, by getting carried away and chasing the bird “to the horizon.” In game-rich areas it can be difficult to shorten the search for a choleric spaniel, which will entail the bird rising beyond the range of a rifle shot. But for spaniels who do not stand, this is a big problem. It’s difficult with such dogs in everyday life - they don’t like to be left without an owner in an unfamiliar place, they start barking, whining, tearing off locked doors, sometimes causing real “pogroms”, and when tied, they gnaw on leashes and, as if to spite the owner, immediately cope big and small needs. True, with age they calm down somewhat, but there are also those who old age They behave like puppies.

However, many hunters still prefer to choose the fastest of the litter - choleric puppies. After painstaking training and coaching, it is interesting to hunt with them: the dog searches like a clockworker, even if there is very little game in the area. It is these dogs that give voice before the bird takes off, helping the hunter prepare for the shot, it is they who can be sent into support structures and impenetrable thickets, they are the ones who fearlessly rush into the icy water after a duck and dive perfectly for wounded animals. They are brave and temperamental, sincerely devoted to their owner.

It is better to try not to purchase melancholic puppies. These are dogs with a weak nervous system. They are cowardly, timid, and incomprehensible. It is in them that a fear of loud sounds manifests itself from childhood and, undoubtedly, there will be a problem of getting used to shooting, which almost never needs to be done with dogs of a different type of nervous activity. Often puppies are not melancholic from birth, but become the result of rough training at an early age or bad attitude to the puppy and developing a fear of people and loud noises. Fortunately, this rarely happens.

So, you decided to get a spaniel, you chose a litter from certain producers - working dogs, without immediately rushing to buy a puppy at the first ad that came across.

Sometimes you have to wait six months or a year, but it’s better to wait a little rather than rush into choosing your future hunting companion. And here's the good news - the puppies have arrived! It is advisable to agree in advance with the breeder (the owner of the bitch) and after the puppies begin to see clearly (at the age of 10-12 days), pay a visit and see the litter. The best time to choose a puppy is when they are 3 weeks old. The main thing is to take your time, sit carefully near the puppies and watch how they play with each other, who is more and who is less active, how they eat, how they rest. Usually at this age the owner already begins to feed the babies. Keep track of which of them runs most actively to the food bowl, and who gets to their mother’s beds faster. Phlegmatic people usually sleep more and run slower, sanguine people actively play with their relatives, choleric people are the most nimble and active, they bark more often and take part in “skirmishes” with pleasure, and melancholic people are the most timid and “crowded” puppies with their brothers, but, as a rule, , they are very rare.

Of course, the exterior is also of no small importance: first of all, attention is paid to the neatness of the head, the length of the ears, and the general appearance of the spaniel. It is better to come together with a specialist who will help you make a choice. The color of a puppy has great aesthetic significance, and this is a matter of taste for the hunter himself. Often, in memory of the previous dog, he tries to choose a spaniel of a similar color. Some hunters prefer red spaniels all their lives, others prefer brown-piebald ones, and still others prefer black-and-piebald ones with speckles in the style english setter. So choosing a future long-eared assistant is not an easy question.

Intuition and even the mutual biofield play a certain role here. When you arrive, one of the puppies will probably be the first to run up to you to play and cuddle. Most often it happens that it is he who will subsequently be your friend.

It is customary for us to sell puppies in one month old, abroad - no earlier than two months. If possible, be sure to agree with the breeder on at least a two-week foster care period, of course, for additional fee. The costs will more than pay off later. While with its mother, the puppy continues to receive breast milk for some time, which is significantly superior in nutritional value to any other food. Besides mother's milk helps strengthen immune system puppy and reduces the risk of dangerous infectious diseases.

A lot has been written about keeping puppies in the house, feeding and raising them. We will not dwell on the truisms and the enormous existing reference material, which are contained in various canine manuals and hunting reference books. ABOUT home training and preparing the puppy for the first trip to the grounds we'll talk in the next issue of our magazine.

History of the breed.

At the end of the 19th century, they began to import a large number of representatives of various breeds of spaniels, since hunting game birds has always been popular in our country. However, hunting enthusiasts soon came to the conclusion that no breed shows such high working qualities as in their homeland. This happened due to the fact that in Russia the flora and fauna are not the same as in Europe and Britain; to put it simply, we have a lot of grass and so-called burdocks. Each hunt boiled down to the fact that the dog worked for two hours, and then spent half a day picking out these same burrs from the most inconspicuous places.

The breeders came to the conclusion that it was necessary to develop their own breed, which would be adapted to our conditions, and would retain all the working qualities of spaniels. As part of the breeding work, the tallest individuals were selected, with a small number of six, and well-developed muscles, in order to ensure the endurance of the future breed. At the very beginning, spaniels were crossed different breeds, most frequently used, and .

The results were not long in coming, and already in 1930 a large group of animals was formed that did not fit the description of any of the spaniel breeds. It seemed that it would not be long before the new breed would see the light, but the Great Patriotic War, of course, there was no time for dogs. After the war, the number of spaniels decreased greatly, but many trophy animals were brought from conquered Europe and work on the breed resumed again. In 1951, the first standard of the new breed was developed, which was slightly modified in 1966.

Since then, Russian spaniels began to displace their overseas brothers from the hunting ranks. It should be noted that selection is still carried out mainly on working qualities, which is why the word “hunting” was added to the name of the breed.

Appearance and character.

Outwardly, these are lean dogs with an elongated and elegantly built body, short hair, which is very useful, since the less hair, the less grass seeds (burrs) stick to them. The dogs are not large, so an adult male can reach 18 kg with a height of 45 cm at the withers, females up to 13-15 kg, with a height of 30-35 cm, it should be noted that the dogs are quite tall, which also has a beneficial effect on the working qualities of the dog .

By nature, these dogs are kind, sympathetic and very active, they make excellent companions, devoted and fearless protectors of the family, despite their small size the dogs are truly fearless.
But the main passion of Russian hunting spaniels is hunting; even active games cannot always replace it.

Dogs are extremely active, so they need quite long walks, it is best to spend them in games, this will strengthen your connection with the dog and make you best friends. Breeders insist that such dogs should not be kept in apartments, since they are, first and foremost, hunters.

Choosing a puppy.

As for choosing a puppy, I will describe general rules choosing puppies, since all this applies, among other things, to the Russian hunting spaniel:

- you should not buy a puppy on the market, since there are simply no purebred dogs there. As for the Russian hunting spaniel, it is better to buy them in hunting clubs, since only hunters have the most purebred, most working dogs.

Of course, if a dog is not entirely purebred, this does not mean that it will be a bad friend and companion - it certainly will be if you love it and take care of it. But you will have to forget about your professional career.

Therefore, it is necessary to buy a puppy only in specialized breeding nurseries, there are a lot of them, so it will not be difficult to find them, while natural competition always leads to an increase in the quality of puppies.

You should choose a puppy only in the environment in which he lived and grew up, since only there will he behave naturally, which will give you the opportunity to more or less objectively draw conclusions, which I will discuss below.

Puppies don't have many worries, as a rule, they eat, sleep, play and explore the world around them, so this is where we will start.

A healthy puppy, if not sleeping, is active, curious and always ready to play with his brothers and sisters. Take the puppy in your hands and smell it, a healthy puppy that was kept in normal conditions, smells, not exactly like daisies, but definitely not like feces or urine.

Wool healthy puppies shiny and fits well on the body, and when he sees you, there should be only curiosity in his eyes, he will definitely come up to you, smell you, maybe taste you, in general, he will begin to explore you.

The puppies in the litter must be homogeneous; it is allowed to have one puppy who is slightly behind in growth and development; for large litters, there may be two such puppies. I do not recommend that you take such puppies if you are a fancier, since you need to pay special attention to their feeding. Such puppies are not at all a waste, as many people think, they are simply the weakest, I once took myself such a puppy, of this breed, and a year later, when we gathered the whole family, he was the most beautiful male in the entire litter, but this is so... for information.

When choosing a puppy, pay attention to the parents, well, everything is simple with the mother, but you may not see the father, to do this, ask for copies of his documents, certificates indicating the awards received. In the documents, make sure that the parents are not closely related, as this is not always good.

Of course, many will say that inbreeding is often used to improve breeds, BUT in addition to strengthening the desired qualities, the risk of genetic diseases also increases.

Be sure to ask the owners about common illnesses in their parents, BUT here, as a rule, you will be deceived, because...well, who will tell you that the parents are sick. But it’s worth mentioning here that breeding nurseries do not allow breeding of individuals that produce sick offspring, so when buying a puppy from a nursery, with a high degree of probability, you will receive a healthy puppy.

Raising and training the Russian hunting spaniel.

If you are not adopting a Russian spaniel for hunting, then remember that training the puppy should begin as early as possible, since puppies of this breed are highly trainable.

Russian spaniels are highly trainable and need communication with their owner; in the absence of such communication, they can become too independent, and as a result, they simply stop listening to you.

Since this breed of dog is a born hunter, they need active games and systematic walks. If you manage to take the animal on a hunt, then your pet’s joy will simply know no bounds.

It should be borne in mind that the hunter's instincts take over, so while walking, constantly monitor your pet, so he can chase everything that moves and eventually get lost. It’s good to walk in parks and forests where it’s not crowded, and your pet will be happy to accompany you while jogging in such places.

As for the time frame, a 2-month-old puppy should be accustomed to his name, establish contact and trust, devote obedience training from 3 to 8 months, after which you can send the dog to a general training course, the so-called OKD .

I will make a reservation that these dogs are highly trainable, so, in my opinion, there is no need for OKD, just train regularly.

If you take this dog for hunting, then you should raise the puppies a little differently:

Of course, you first need to establish contact with the dog so that it can completely trust you. This, as a rule, does not take much time, and by three months, start taking the dogs out into the forest, they should get used to the forest, its inhabitants and, of course, to other dogs. It is very important that dogs do not show aggression towards each other.

Accompany your first walks in the forest with games, use toys and get the dog to bring them to you.

By 5-6 months, dogs should already feel at home in the forest. At this age, the first training for game begins; it’s not even training, but, probably, more game, also do not forget to accustom the animal to the sound of gunshots; it is better to do this in the company of experienced dogs, as young puppies will follow the example of their calmer older brothers in arms.

Usually, by the end of the first year of life, Russian hunting spaniels can hunt quite effectively, here it is worth mentioning right away that your dog may become a professional much earlier, but all this depends on its qualities.

Russian hunting spaniels do not require any special attention, since the breed was bred taking into account the fact that you would not have to “carry it in your arms.”

Dogs tolerate both cold and heat very well, within reasonable limits, of course. Wool perfectly protects the Russian spaniel from precipitation, but some things still have to be done:

- it is necessary to comb the dog as necessary, as a rule, this is done only to make the dog look better. After a hunt or walk, inspect the dog’s paws and interdigital spaces for splinters and spikelets.

— dogs should be bathed when necessary, since they love to swim very much, and they consider any puddle to be a body of water, so they will have to bathe, not just every day, but quite often.

- eyes also require attention, they are enough weakness, so wipe them off, and when they appear heavy discharge consult a doctor.

- ears separate topic, because when swimming, water continually gets into them, which leads to inflammatory processes. This can be avoided by regular ventilation. This is done by securing the ears with an elastic band, or as I did - with a clothespin, on the dog’s head; you don’t have to walk like this for long, a few minutes after bathing are enough.

- regular dental care is necessary, this can be done with a toothbrush, my dog ​​did not like this, or by brushing the tartar - at least 2 times a year.

Feeding a Russian hunting spaniel.

There are no problems in feeding these dogs. As for balanced feeding, you need to read the articles; if you have any questions, ask them here or in the comments, I will definitely answer you.

After familiarizing yourself with the basic rules of feeding dogs, I’m sure there shouldn’t be many questions. Keep in mind that these dogs have an excellent appetite, and it is very important not to overfeed your pet, as this can lead to serious health problems, and the problem excess weight will be the most insignificant.

General rules on what not to feed dogs:

Any fatty food, since dogs are very susceptible to liver and pancreas diseases

Bones, since this is generally stupid, they do not carry any nutritional value, but there can be a lot of problems.

Fresh bread, also because of the pancreas

- a two-month-old puppy needs to be fed 5-6 times a day, reducing the frequency of feeding to 3-4 times by six months and to 2-3 times by 9-10 months. There is no consensus on feeding 2 or 3 times a day; I am inclined to feed 3 times a day in small portions.

There are still debates about which type of feeding is best for this breed, but these debates are simply endless, I personally am a supporter of natural feeding, but I don’t have much more experience than you, so I leave the final decision on the type of feeding To you.

These dogs can be fed from your table, however, as you can see, not all foods are suitable for these spaniels, so if there are problems with balanced diet, try turning to ready-made complete food; which manufacturer to prefer, of course, is up to you to decide, but I suggest to your attention

Health.

Of course, you cannot describe all diseases here, but here are the most common diseases:

- renal and liver failure- partly inherited, partly due to poor feeding, sometimes very difficult hunting conditions, this is when the hunt takes several days, and the dog is in open snow or strong wind, and she managed to get pretty wet while she was working.

- congenital deafness - genetic disease

— hip dysplasia is a serious disease, but there are treatments that can help in some cases

- hernias - solved by not complex operation

- dislocation kneecap– the pathology is not simple, but can be treated as conservative methods treatment and surgical

- cardiomyopathy - lack of regular walks, overfeeding, genetic predisposition.

- epilepsy is a serious problem, but there are enough effective methods stopping the pathological process

Price for puppies

As for puppies in the markets, you can buy a puppy there for around 100-150 US dollars; in young clubs and private breeders the price will increase to 250-400 US dollars

As for truly breeding nurseries, here the puppies are the most expensive, so the price for a 2-3 month old puppy is in the range of 800-800 dollars, sometimes, when it comes to elite lines, the price can reach 2000 US dollars, sometimes even more.

Excerpts from the standard.

General appearance, build: ROS is a long-haired gun dog, which is distinguished by its overall proportionality, small stature, elongated format, strong-dry type of build. The bones are strong. The muscles are well developed. The skin is dense, elastic, without loose fiber or folds.

Main important proportions: Height at the withers in males is 40-45 cm, in females 38-43 cm. The oblique length of the body, measured from the anterior protrusion of the sternum to the ischial tuberosity, is 110-115% of the height at the withers in males and 115-120% in female. The height at the elbow is equal to 1/2 the height at the withers. The length of the muzzle is equal to the length of the skull.

Behavior and temperament: balanced and active temperament, friendly attitude towards people.

Head: proportional to the general build, dry, moderately long, more massive in males.

Skull: The cranial part is moderately wide, oval when viewed from above. The occipital protuberance is poorly defined. The profile lines of the skull and muzzle are parallel. The brow ridges are moderately developed. The transition from forehead to muzzle is distinct and at the same time smooth.

Muzzle: long, slightly narrower than the skull, well filled under the eyes, slightly tapering towards the nose, blunt in profile. Lips are dry and tight-fitting. The nose is large, with wide open nostrils.

The color of the nose and lips ranges from black to brown to match the color.

Teeth and bite: teeth are healthy, strong, well developed, tightly adjacent to each other. The dental formula is complete. Scissor bite.

Eyes: dark brown or brown, depending on coat color, oval, straight set, moderately large. Brown and brown-white dogs are allowed light brown eyes. The eyelids are dry, pigmented, tightly fitting.

Ears: hanging, long, lobe-shaped, close to the cheekbones, set at eye level or slightly higher, mobile. The slightly elongated ear should reach the nose.

Neck: moderately long, medium set, oval in cross section, muscular, dry.

Torso:

Topline: Slightly sloping from the withers to the base of the tail.

Withers: Well developed and slightly higher than the height at the rump. In males it is especially pronounced. In females, the height at the withers is allowed to be at the same level as the rump.

Back: strong, wide, muscular.

Loin: Short, wide, muscular, slightly arched.

Croup: wide, moderately long, slightly sloping, muscular.

Tail: set in continuation of the croup, rather thick at the base, mobile, straight, with dewlap. IN calm state the tail is held at the level of the back, when excited - slightly higher. To avoid damage during hunting, it is stopped by half in the first three days after birth. An undocked tail is the cause of frequent injuries when using POC for hunting.

An undocked tail is permitted in countries where docking is prohibited by law. Dogs with docked and undocked tails are judged equally.

Chest: deep, moderately wide, long, with well developed false ribs.

Belly: moderately tucked with a smooth transition to the groin.

Forelegs: dry, bony, straight and parallel when viewed from the front.

Shoulders: the angle of the glenohumeral joint approaches 100 0.

Elbows: point straight back.

Forearms: straight.

Pasterns: voluminous, strong, slightly sloping when viewed from the side.

Hindquarters: When viewed from behind, straight, parallel, muscular, set wider than the forelimbs. When viewed from the side, it has well-defined articulation angles.

Tibia: moderately long, set at an angle.

Hock joints: wide, well defined, dry.

Hocks: voluminous, straight set. Dewclaws must be removed to avoid injury during hunting.

Feet: round, arched (in a “ball”), with tightly clenched toes and thick hair between them (“brush”).

Movements: free, easy, productive. The typical gait during the search is a light gallop, which in difficult places is replaced by a trot.

Solid colors: black, brown, red (ranging from light fawn to dark red), with solid colors allowed small white markings on the chest and/or throat and paws. These colors can be with tan.

Two-color colors: black and white, red and white, brown and white with clear boundaries between pigmented and unpigmented areas, with or without speckling, or speckled or roan colors with pigment corresponding to the above colors.

Three-color colors: black and white with tan, brown and white with tan, with possible manifestations specks and/or roan to match the above colors.

Bicolor and tricolor dogs can be either spotted or piebald.

Coat: The outer coat is moderately long, shiny, straight or slightly wavy, close-lying. On the head and front sides of the limbs the hair is short and straight. On the upper side of the neck, back, sides and croup – moderately long and thick. On the underside of the neck, chest, belly, back of the front and hind legs, as well as on the ears and lower part of the tail, the hair is longer, soft, wavy, and forms feathers and dewlap. Between the toes the hair is thick and brushy.

Any deviations from the above standards should be regarded as shortcomings or defects, depending on the degree of their severity.

Flaws:

Insufficiently strong or rough bones;

Insufficiently developed, poorly defined muscles, loose skin with slight folds;

Insufficiently expressed sexual dimorphism, lack of distinct high anteriority in males;

Some excitability or phlegmatic behavior;

Short or overly stretched body;

Rough, damp or light head, slight cheekbones;

Somewhat lowered, slightly upturned or short muzzle, slight hooked nose, weakly expressed transition; damp lips, excessively blunt edge of the upper lip;

Ears that are set too high or low, too long or short, harsh at the base, not mobile enough;

Round, small, slightly sunken eyes with loose eyelids; light brown eyes in any color other than brown or brown-white;

Small sparse or carious teeth, absence of premolars, but no more than two of the number P 1, P 2, P 3;

Short, long, with poorly developed muscles, excessively high or low set, slightly loaded at the base of the neck; small suspension;

Poorly developed withers, noticeable overtracking, soft or slightly humped back when standing and/or moving;

Straight, somewhat elongated loin;

Narrow, short, somewhat sloping, insufficiently muscular croup;

Short or long docked, inactive, tucked tail; in a calm state, the tail is set above the level of the back; when excited, it is set too high, but not vertically;

A drooping or overly tucked belly;

Slight curvature of the forearms, slightly straightened angle of the glenohumeral joint, slightly turned outward elbows, clubfoot, soft metacarpus, small size;

Insufficiently pronounced angles of the articulations, a narrow set of the hind legs, hock joints slightly close together or turned outward, slight sabering;

Narrow, elongated, slightly loose, with excessively long, soft hair between the toes;

Sluggish, somewhat mincing or constrained movements, weak push;

Coarse, insufficiently tight, insufficiently developed or excessively long, excessively wavy top coat hair;

Underdeveloped dressing hair

Lightness or roughness of build;

Weak physical development, loose skin in folds;

Weak sexual dimorphism;

Clearly expressed lethargy, phlegmaticity, excitability;

Shortened or excessively elongated format;

Deviation from standard height by more than 2 cm in any direction;

Rough, raw, light head, pronounced cheekbones, poorly or overdeveloped brow ridges; smooth or sharp transition;

Short, downturned or upturned muzzle; raw lips;

Low or high set, light, heavy, narrow, short or excessively long, rolled into a tube, motionless ears;

Protruding eyes; very light, yellow, amber eyes of any color; drooping and/or pink eyelids;

Absence of no more than four premolars from the number P 1, P 2, P 3; absence of one P 4 in lower jaw;

Raw neck, significantly loaded at the base;

Undeveloped withers, sagging or hunchbacked back, weak long loin, narrow, short croup with poorly developed muscles;

Narrow or barrel-shaped chest;

Curved forearms, straight shoulder, out-turned elbows, clubfoot, soft pasterns, markings;

Straightened angles of the joints of the hind limbs, narrow stance, hock joints clearly close together or significantly turned outward, pronounced sabering;

Flat, splayed paws;

Sluggish, mincing, constrained movements;

Coarse, curly or in a curl on the neck and body, tousled, plump, short topcoat; lack of dressing hair;

Disqualifying faults:

Unprovoked aggression towards a person, cowardice;

All deviations from a scissor bite, regardless of severity; jaw distortion;

Presence of extra incisors;

The absence of one or more incisors, or the presence of broken incisors, if this prevents the determination of the bite;

The absence of at least one fang;

Absence of at least one molar (except M 3), absence of two P 4 in the lower jaw or at least one P 4 in upper jaw, or more than four premolars from the number P 1, P 2, P 3;

Discord;

Any colors other than those specified in the standard; color of the nose and lips not provided for by the standard;

Congenital bobtail;

Cryptorchidism.

Dogs with deviations in anatomy and behavior that affect or interfere with health traditional use, are subject to disqualification.

Note: Males must have two normally developed testes, fully descended into the scrotum.

Video report on the King Charles Spaniel breed.

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Brief description of the Russian Spaniel dog breed

• Adult dog height: for males from 38 to 44 centimeters, for females - from 36 to 42 centimeters.
• Weight: 15-20 kilograms.
• Characteristic color: monochrome – red, brown and black; two-color – brown-piebald, black-piebald, red-piebald; tricolor - black and brown with tan or white with strokes and spots.
• Wool length: long, soft, shiny and slightly wavy. On the head and front sides of the legs the hair is short, on the sides, back, croup and neck it is long and thick.
• Lifespan: 12-15 years old.
• Advantages of the breed: friendly, playful, loves children, good for apartment living.
• Difficulties of the breed: a hunting dog with all that it implies. Needs frequent walks, long coat.
• average price for a Russian spaniel: from 100 to 1100 dollars, depending on the purpose and pedigree of the puppy.

History of the origin of the Russian spaniel

Previously in Russia it was quite for a long time Spaniels brought from Europe, usually from England, were used for hunting. Due to the characteristics of the land, game and hunters, the imported dogs did not conduct the hunt in the most successful way. Then the idea came up to create a breed, which will hunt well in Russia based on cocker spaniels from England.

Cocker Spaniels were crossed with Springers and Suseks, resulting in a completely different breed. From 1945 to 1949, the latest experiments were carried out to improve the resulting breed. This is how modern Russian spaniels appeared, which are excellent suitable for hunting specifically in Russian conditions.

After the breed was bred, its presentation took place. First standard approved back in 1951. In subsequent years, it changed a little, but since 1972, mating of the Russian spaniel with other dog breeds has completely stopped. It is worth noting that the Russian spaniel recognized by RKF, however, it has not yet been recognized by the FCI.

The Russian Spaniel is both a wonderful dog for hunting and a great pet. Since they are small in size, they feel comfortable even in a small apartment.

Russian Spaniel great at hunting thanks to its endurance, excellent sense of smell, perseverance, energy and hunting sense. They do not need to be trained for long; they are already early age capable of hunting. Her tasks during the hunt are as follows: find a bird, lift it on the wing, and bring it to the hunter.

Typically, Russian spaniels are used for hunting jerk, quail, hare, sandpiper and wild goat.

Also you should know that the Russian Spaniel is not suitable for hunting in dense thickets, difficult and poor places for prey. They will quickly become exhausted and will not be able to adequately help. But in places rich in loot, they are energetic and inspired and will really be able to help you.

Besides hunting, they wonderful companions, are distinguished by their love for children, always ready to do everything to protect them from danger.

As mentioned above, Russian spaniels are intended not only for hunting, but also in everyday life they will become wonderful companions and friends. They are very strongly attached to their owner and love spending time with him. Even if you decide to go fishing, you can still take your dog with you. She will not disturb you, but will simply sit quietly next to you, diluting the loneliness.

Russian Spaniels love to swim, so you shouldn’t deprive them of such pleasure. If you have your own house with a plot, then do not keep the dog indoors, let it out into the yard and let it frolic there. However, first close the gate and the gate.

Russian Spaniel very attached to children and loves them very much. He will be happy to spend his free time with them. They will play, run, jump and follow their commands. Don't be afraid to leave your dog with your child, because Russian spaniels are very friendly and will never hurt their friend.

As for their attitude towards other animals, spaniels are also not known for their aggression. They are in the house get along with a cat without any problems, will get along with him. However, they don’t have such love and respect for other people’s cats, and they will quickly drive them away from their territory. In terms of pets, it is important to remember that with a spaniel You can’t have exotic species in your house, such as hamsters, guinea pigs, etc. It is not at all impossible that one day their hunting instinct will take over the spaniel, and they will perceive a small animal nearby as their prey.

To summarize, it can be noted that Russian spaniels are persistent, strong and active dogs with excellent flair. By their nature they are calm, good-natured and loyal, easy to follow, affectionate with children and obedient to their owners.

Video review of the Russian Spaniel breed

Reading about the features of the Russian spaniel, of course, you want to look at it with your own eyes. Especially for you, we found a video about this breed of dog, after watching which you will learn even better. what does it represent this breed , and why it is popular in Russia.

If choose between a bitch and a dog, then it’s worth knowing that the latter are more powerful and hardy, and the former are more obedient and easier to train.

It's better to get a puppy, although it is possible for an already adult dog. When talking about pedigree, you need to understand that this is not just a piece of paper, but a guarantee of a strong and healthy dog, whose ancestors have shown themselves to be excellent.

Optimal average weight a puppy one month old – 1.6-2 kilograms.

When choosing a color, many prefer dark and avoid light, believing that white dogs are much more dirty. In fact, it doesn’t matter, since dogs of any color get dirty equally, but white dog It will be better visible at dusk.

When choosing a puppy, you should pay attention to: will he try to break free, explore a new space. If so, then he will grow up to be an excellent hunting dog, but if a Russian spaniel is needed not for hunting, but simply as a pet, then it is better to choose a calmer puppy.

Also, when choosing, you should pay attention to the puppy's movements, and its proportionality. If he lifts his tail slightly, this is normal; this habit goes away with age. However, the tail should not be carried vertically upward at all times.

There is no need to take a short-legged puppy; his head should be proportional to his body, his ears should reach his nose. The lobe should be black. If there is a hump on the nose, then great, as it is an indicator of a long muzzle. The puppy's bite should be a scissor bite.

Nicknames for Russian Spaniel

It is better to choose a nickname from the words of the Russian language. You can choose a nickname associated with geographical name, traditional names of hunting dogs or something from Slavic mythology.

The best nicknames for male dogs: Bor, Master, Wild, Sonorous, Dexterous, Pirate, Falcon, Nimble.

The best nicknames for bitches: Amba, Orina, Staiga, Mystery, Ula, Tsarina, Shumka, Yula, Yasnaya.

Even though spaniels do well in apartments, they need constant walks and physical activity. They also love to swim. If the spaniel does not have constant exercise, he will quickly gain weight and lose his shape. They love outdoor games and love to play with other dogs.

Spaniel coat It has no characteristic odor, but it requires constant care and needs to be cleaned and combed regularly. It is also recommended to bathe your spaniel several times a year with special shampoo, constantly trim your nails and inspect your ears.

You need to take your dog regularly to be checked by a veterinarian, do it on time.

You also need to know that due to her playful nature, she can indulge in such pranks as chew slippers or tear up the newspaper.

What to feed a Russian spaniel

Spaniels must eat right, they tend to overeat, so you need to keep an eye on it. It is imperative to give your dog vitamins. You can feed him dry food or natural food.

Puppies should be fed the same way they were fed by the breeder. Over time, you can create your own diet.

Adult dogs It is enough to feed twice a day, small puppies should be fed little, but often, 5-6 times a day. As you get older, reduce the number of meals you eat.

Training and education of the Russian hunting spaniel

Start training possible from a young age with simple commands: “Place!”, “Come to me!”. Then you can move on to more complex commands: “No!” and “It’s possible!”

Spaniels highly trainable. With encouragement, the process will go much faster, punishment will not have to be applied, because spaniels do not behave in such a way as to upset their owner and deserve it.

Advantages and disadvantages of the Russian spaniel

Advantages: charm, intelligence, good nature, emotionality, love for children, affection for the owner, can be kept in a small apartment.

Flaws: there are practically none. Among the most significant are long hair, excessive activity, requiring frequent and long walks.

How to choose a spaniel puppy for hunting?

Hunters know very well how important it is to choose a puppy from working sires. A dog with good hereditary inclinations will certainly become a good helper while hunting, and its training will be quite within the capabilities of even a novice hunter. And no matter how you deal with a mediocrity, it won’t do any good. We must be aware that a dog is adopted for 12-14 years and few people then have the determination to get rid of a pet that has not lived up to expectations, and this is not humane. Therefore, it is very important to take the choice of a puppy very seriously.

There is a myth among hunters that real working dogs do not necessarily have to be purebred. On the contrary, medalists are all nonsense. Many people proudly say when they call about an advertisement: I don’t need your medals, I’m taking a dog for hunting!

Many people take an unplanned puppy, which is somewhat cheaper, and are quite satisfied with the assurances of the owner of the bitch that his dog works great and will beat many champions. It is quite possible that this is really so, but no one can prove it. You have to take a person's word for it. Does a hunter always adequately evaluate his dog? Any professional expert will tell you that the praise of a dog owner can be trusted about as much as a fisherman's assurances about the size of the pike he caught can be trusted.

Any sane person studies the product before investing money in something. When buying a TV, carefully review the options offered in stores, choose a reliable company, a functional model, and only after that go shopping. Why, when choosing a puppy, do many potential owners take the credentials and merits of the producers so lightly? After all, this is the main guarantee that the puppy will grow up to be a worthy working dog!

So what should you pay attention to when studying the pedigrees of the parents of your future puppy? A high score on the exterior (“excellent” or “very good”) indicates that the dog corresponds to the breed in all respects, and that its build fully corresponds to the hunting tasks assigned to it. A “good” rating indicates the presence of exterior defects; dogs rated “satisfactory” or without a rating are not allowed for breeding. The presence of field diplomas indicates that the dog has been tested in the field by expert dog handlers, that it has a hunting passion, flair, gait, and good obedience. Thus, not only the owner, but also experienced experts are confident that the dog is truly a working dog and is capable of producing appropriate offspring. Field diplomas come in third, second and first degrees, with third being the lowest and first being the highest. Naturally, the higher the degree of field diplomas, the better the dog works. There are, however, cases when very gifted dog nature, passionate and instinctive, cannot receive high diplomas due to the owner’s shortcomings. There is another way to form an opinion about the working qualities of a dog without seeing it in the field - look at the points of field diplomas. The overall score is made up of an assessment of the individual qualities of the dog. Some qualities are innate and depend little on training (flair, speed of search, perseverance), others are determined to a greater extent by training (presentation, positioning and obedience). Naturally, preference should be given to dogs with good innate qualities, because it is they, and not the talents of the trainer, that will be passed on to your puppy. In order to be able to “read” point prices, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the Test Rules in advance.

But that's not all. It is imperative to check what types of game the parents were tested on. Ask the owners of the dog and the bitch to clarify this issue. A few years ago, spaniels began to be tested using blood trails. The essence of these tests is the dog's ability to follow a pre-laid trail of (usually) bovine blood. The practical significance of such tests for spaniels is very doubtful, since they do not provide any information about the working qualities of the dog necessary for working on poultry. To be completely honest, any dog, even a mongrel, can receive such a diploma, without any special training, simply because it is a dog. That is why the All-Russian Spaniel Conference, held in July 2006, decided to exclude blood trail tests from the list of field tests for spaniels. A real working spaniel has diplomas in the main types of game - marsh-meadow, field, hog or duck. It is these diplomas that determine the working qualities of the dog.

Of course, it is very difficult for a beginner to understand all these systems of judging and evaluating hunting dogs, but you can simplify the task somewhat for yourself, come with your questions to the Hunting Dog Breeding Club, find there the spaniel experts and leaders of the breed you are interested in and ask them in great detail: what litters are expected , which producers are currently present in the population, with what characteristics. Tell us what you expect from your future pet. Of course, breeders, in turn, will have questions for you - how seriously do you hunt, will you train the dog in the future - bring it to exhibitions and tests, are you interested in getting offspring from it. It seems like what's the difference? In fact, all this is very important, because... every breeder is interested in reliable owners no less than you are in reliable dogs. He strives to “place” good promising puppies responsible people who are capable of raising good producers in order to continue the development and improvement of the breed.

Be careful when buying a puppy from an ad. There are often cases when owners of a young dog come to our Club and bring a pedigree from an unknown club with unknown ancestors... Now it costs nothing to print a fictitious pedigree on any computer, seal it with the first available seal and attach it to any puppy. Do not take puppies from random people or at bird markets. Find out from the Hunter Society which Clubs actually breed hunting dogs and be sure to check whether this mating took place, whether it was planned by the club, and whether pedigrees will be issued for these puppies.

If you have the opportunity, try to attend a hunting dog show. Although they are not held very often, they are worth spending time on. There you can see various representatives of the breed, meet many owners, talk about the working qualities of dogs. And of course, agree to see these dogs in the field - at trials, competitions or just while hunting. The next exhibition of hunting dogs in St. Petersburg will take place on June 2 at the Spartak stadium at st. Akkuratova 7A, it is held by the Leningrad Regional Society of Hunters. Another very important thing for everyone will take place in June hunting breeds dog event - All-Russian exhibition of hunting dogs in Tver. It will take place from June 10 to 12, 2007. Exhibitions of this scale are held once every five years and bring together dog breeders from all over Russia and neighboring countries. Well, the next tests of spaniels are planned for the end of April - beginning of May 2007. It’s difficult to say about exact dates yet - a lot depends on the timing of the opening of the hunt. If there was a desire, it would not be difficult to find an opportunity to see dogs in action.

Well, finally, you have figured out the regalia and merits of the producers, you have decided who you want to get the dog from and you are going to choose the puppy itself. Who should I take, a male or a female? From the point of view of future working qualities, this does not matter much, only minor nuances. For example, male dogs are more powerfully built, it is easier for them to work in difficult areas, but they are usually more stubborn, independent and willful. Bitches, on the other hand, tend to be gentler in nature, easier to train on average, and more loyal to their owner. True, an untimely estrus can deprive you of the long-awaited hunt. However, modern medications allow you to somewhat adjust the timing of the onset of estrus, so take care of this in advance. Thus, choose the one to whom your soul lies.

When it comes to choosing a specific puppy, it makes sense to know that according to generally accepted rules, the first puppy is chosen by the owner of the bitch, and the second (maintenance) by the owner of the male. That is, if you are a friend of the breeder, then he can give you the first choice, if you are a friend of the owner of the dog, then you can get the right to choose the second puppy. In fact, often neither the breeder nor the owner of the male dog has any claims on the puppies, and if you are persistent enough, you will be able to agree on the first choice. Even if your choice is not the first, do not be upset. It can be very difficult to predict how a puppy will grow up. Very often, it is the last puppies that turn out to be the field winners, contrary to all forecasts.

There is no point in choosing a puppy before three weeks of age. Even at this age it is unlikely to be able to discern any exterior advantages or disadvantages. But the character of the future hunting dog can already be determined. True, for this you will need to watch the puppies for some time. A puppy that actively escapes from the hands, runs vigorously, flirts with brothers and sisters, feels very confident, as a rule, will be more active in the hunt. Sleepy, lethargic puppies may turn out to be too phlegmatic both in life and on the hunt, but they will be less burdensome when kept in an apartment. A vocal, barking puppy will most likely vocalize during the hunt. True, during walks in the city, his vociferousness will also manifest itself. Large puppies are almost always preferable to small ones, although often the “kids” over time catch up and even overtake their brothers. You should not take a timid puppy or, conversely, one that is too aggressive.

There are a number of other parameters that you should check when choosing a puppy. At one month of age, puppies should have front teeth (incisors and canines), and the bite should be scissor-shaped, with a slight underbite allowed. The coat should be clean, soft and shiny. Take the puppy in your hands, turn him over and examine his tummy to see if he has an umbilical hernia.

Before distribution to future owners, purebred puppies must be branded and certified - experienced experts inspect the litter for compliance with the breed, quality of rearing, absence of rickets, and developmental defects. The club and the puppy's number are encrypted in the brand. If the dog gets lost, it will be easy to find the owner using the brand. For each puppy, a Certificate of Origin is issued, which includes the name, number, new owner of the puppy and the full four-generation pedigree is listed.

Once you become the happy owner of a hunting dog, everything will depend on you. You need to conscientiously raise the dog and train it (by the way, expert dog handlers willingly help club dogs with this). And if the dog has met the owner’s expectations (and with the right, well-thought-out choice, the likelihood of this increases significantly), then it is worth paying back the debt to the breed - showing the dog at exhibitions and trials and, in turn, producing good working hunting dogs that will also please their owners!

Expert dog handler II category

Irina Rusina

Expert dog handler III category

The Russian Spaniel is a breed of dog bred three hundred years ago for hunting in our lands. To do this, breeders crossed cocker spaniels, hounds, and pointers. The hybrid has become the pride of domestic cynology. The dog turned out to be not only a good hunter, but also true friend. Today he helps the military and police in search of drugs and weapons, is a great companion for family.

You can distinguish the Russian spaniel from dwarf breeds and other crossbreeds by their external characteristics. The dogs are of medium size, have an elongated, lean body, and a head with tight-fitting skin. Thick wool comes in three types of color:

• single color: black or brown;
• bicolor, with piebald spots on a dark background;
• tricolor: black and piebald with tan.

Other shades are found only among mestizos. Adult dogs have a height at the withers of up to 45 cm, a weight of up to 18 kg, and a life expectancy of 15-18 years.

How to choose a puppy

It is better to buy Russian spaniel puppies from kennels, through kennel clubs. Our specialists have experience caring for babies from the first days of life.

Upon purchase there is issued veterinary passport indicating the date of the first vaccinations. In addition, the owners issue a document of origin. It indicates the date of birth, the name of the parents, the brand number, and the address of the breeders. Without these certificates it is impossible to issue a hunting dog book and go to the hunting grounds.

It is worth choosing a puppy when it is 10-12 days old. Unlike newborns, babies during this period already show character traits: active, calm, lazy or intimidated. The next visit must be made after 20 days. At one month of age, you can evaluate teeth, bite, coat, and the absence of congenital diseases. It is better to take the dog home after two months.

Dog breeders explain that both spaniel boys and girls have many positive qualities. In male dogs, thoroughbredness is clearly expressed, which is important at exhibitions and tournaments. They can withstand big ones physical exercise, can hunt any day of the year.

Bitches are more affectionate, obedient, and devoted to their owner. Except for the period of estrus, they are absolutely indifferent to the opposite sex.

A Russian hunting spaniel puppy in Russia is not expensive. A purebred dog with an ideal pedigree can be bought for 10-20 thousand rubles. A healthy dog ​​without documents often costs 3-5 thousand rubles. But, even when purchasing online, you should check for vaccinations and anthelmintic procedures.

Keeping in an apartment and in an enclosure

The Russian spaniel tolerates frost and heat well. Therefore, after six months of age, he can live in an enclosure. To do this, the dog needs to make an insulated booth that does not allow rain and drafts to pass through.

Russian Spaniel puppies do well in apartment conditions.

For convenience, they need to lay out a bed of the appropriate size. It should be located in one place in the room, at a distance from heating appliances, doors, and upholstered furniture. Choose heavy, stable food bowls. Buy toys only at a pet store so that your dog cannot bite them and get poisoned by rubber or foam rubber.

In addition, purchase the following accessories there:

• collar, muzzle;
• harness, leash;
• clothes, whistle;
• bathing products;
• terry towels.

Remove small objects and household chemicals from the floor, hide the wires of office equipment.

Feeding rules

During the first days in a new home, Russian Hunting Spaniel puppies should eat the same food as the breeder. Then you can transfer them to food or natural nutrition. All foods should be given to the dog separately, 1 tablespoon at a time. After 12 hours, it becomes clear whether the dog has an individual intolerance or an allergic reaction.

Natural food should consist of 70% lean meats, cut into small pieces. The dog's stomach does not digest raw minced meat. Twice a week is given sea ​​fish boneless, boiled eggs. From fermented milk products Calcined cottage cheese, fermented baked milk, and kefir should be included in the diet. Vegetables must be boiled and mixed with vegetable oil. Prohibited foods include:

• fat meat;
• River fish;
• millet and pearl barley porridge;
• legumes;
• citrus fruit.

Premium industrial food is divided into categories taking into account the breed of dogs and their physical activity. In addition, food for puppies, pregnant and lactating bitches, and elderly animals is sold separately. If you measure portions according to the instructions printed on the package, you don’t have to buy vitamin complexes and biologically active additives. All useful components are already present in dry granules, canned food and gravy.

Weight of Russian Spaniel puppies by month

If a puppy or adult dog weighs more than normal, his diet is adjusted and fasting days are carried out.

Hygienic care

Particular attention should be paid to the ears. Due to their long, hanging shape, they are poorly ventilated, and inflammatory processes develop at the site of scratches.

The fur of a Russian spaniel does not smell like a dog. It has a natural coating that repels dirt. Therefore, it is necessary to bathe the animal once a month. Pet stores sell dog shampoos and conditioners to make grooming easier. Much more often (once a week) you should comb out knots, cut out tangles, comb the ears and tail.

The shape of the spaniel's eyeball increases the dog's visual angle to 250°. However, loose lid closure, characteristic of this breed, is responsible for the development inflammatory processes. If you find mucus on your eyes, you need to wipe them with a lint-free cloth soaked in chamomile infusion.

Strong teeth allow dogs to hunt. To maintain their health, pet stores sell chewable tablets, mouth sprays, and dense treats for cleaning the interdental space.

Characteristic diseases

Spaniel puppies are vaccinated four times. Modern vaccines prevent the development of several infectious diseases at once. Adult dogs are vaccinated once a year. Before each procedure, it is necessary to prepare your pet. He is given an anthelmintic drug 10 days in advance, and on the day of injection his temperature and physical activity are checked.

Dogs of this breed are distinguished by good health. However, they have a tendency to develop allergic reactions. They manifest themselves as irritation on the skin and general lethargy of the animal.

Another weak point is the long drooping ears. They're closing ear canal and create a favorable environment for the development of infections. At lack of activity When walking, dogs become obese.

Education and training

The Russian Spaniel is considered a one-owner pet. Therefore, one person must feed, care for, walk the dog, and teach it to commands. The dog is given a short, sonorous nickname. First, after pronouncing it, a treat is given out. Gradually the puppy gets used to it and leaves everything as soon as he hears his name.

Training also includes the execution of the “Place!” command. To do this, after pronouncing the order, the puppy is lightly slapped on the croup with a hand, and then carried in his arms to the bed. Soon the dog itself runs to the mat, without waiting physical impact. To help develop skills faster, you can reinforce them with treats and pats on the head.

The dog must be accustomed to a collar, leash and muzzle. Even if the dog never bites, he should wear a protective mask on his face when walking along city streets. To do this, all devices are put on after the command “Walk!” Gradually, the dog stops resisting, patiently endures the training and rejoices at the opportunity to frolic.